by Karen Ward
In this chapter, we include a variety of our favorite recipes with unique flavor combinations. The recipes utilize a variety of preparation techniques that take you step by step through each process. In addition to fresh fruit, some recipes use frozen fruit and fruit juice.
Understanding Your Sweet Spreads
Making sweet spreads is basic chemistry, using exact proportions of fruit and sugar, cooking the two, and sometimes adding acid or pectin. Don't worry if chemistry wasn't your strong suit in school. Good recipes do the homework for you. Your responsibility is to follow the recipe exactly, using the correct ingredients and measuring them accurately.
Never double a sweet spread recipe or adjust the sugar amount. Recipes are balanced to achieve a specific consistency and texture. Any alteration or adjustment to the recipe upsets the perfect chemical balance and adversely affects your spread by producing inferior results. If you want more of the same recipe, make it twice. If you would like to use less sugar, find another recipe that uses your desired amount.
Sweet spreads, generically referred to as preserves, come in many forms and textures. The various types of sweet spreads are as follows:
Jam: Jam is a combination of fruit (crushed or chopped), sugar, and sometimes pectin and acid, cooked until the pieces of fruit are soft and almost lose their shape. Common uses for jam include bread spreads, cookie and pastry fillings, and a topping for cheesecake.
Jelly: This mixture combines fruit juice, sugar, and sometimes pectin. It's transparent with a bright color and should be firm, yet jiggly. If you use fresh fruit, you may be instructed to strain it. Use jelly as a bread spread or as a filling for cakes and cookies.
Marmalade: These are soft jellies with pieces of fruit rind, usually citrus fruit, suspended in them. In addition to bread spread, marmalades are great as a glaze on a baked ham (use your favorite flavor!).
Preserves: In addition to the generic term representing all sweet spreads, preserves have a definition of their own. They contain cooked fruit, sugar, and sometimes pectin and have a jamlike consistency, but with whole or large pieces of fruit. The fruit maintains its shape during the cooking process.
Butter: This smooth, thick spread is made from fruit purée and sugar cooked for a long period of time. The results are a thick spread. Butters normally use less sugar than other sweet spreads and may have spices added to enhance the flavor of the fruit.
Conserves: These usually contain two fruits mixed with sugar and nuts and cooked to achieve a consistency similar to jam. Traditionally, conserves were used as a spread on biscuits and crumpets.
Choosing Fruit for Sweet Spreads
Always select the freshest fruit available to you. Everyone has his or her favorite. Know when your favorites are in season for the best selection, the highest quality, and, usually, the most reasonable pricing. (For detailed information on selecting fresh fruits, check out Chapter 5.)
Local growers are good indicators of the types of fruit grown in your area. Check out your local farmer's markets and ask the sellers about their fruit. People love to talk about their passion, and who better to learn from than the person who grows the food you're buying? Ask questions about the fruit you see, how they determine ripeness, and how a particular fruit tastes. If they're not passing out samples, they'll probably be happy to cut you a taste.
Carry copies of your favorite recipes when you're visiting local growers or farmer's markets. That way, you'll always buy the right amount of fruit for your favorite recipe.
Getting Up to Speed with Fruit Pectin
Pectin is a natural, water-based substance that's present in ripe fruit. It's essential for thickening jams, jellies, and other types of preserves. Some recipes add commercial fruit pectin when more than the naturally occurring amount of pectin is needed (like when you want to thicken a fruit juice into a jelly). If your recipe does include such an ingredient, you'll see the kind of pectin (powdered or liquid) listed.
Never alter the amount of sugar your recipe calls for or use sugar substitutes. Exact amounts of sugar, fruit, and pectin are a must for a good set — that is, a consistency that isn't too thick to spread or too runny.
Commercial pectin basics
Commercial pectin is available in most supermarkets or where canning supplies are sold. Pectin may be in short supply in the spring and summer months because these are such popular times of year for canning. So be sure you have enough on hand before you start preparing your recipe.
Inspect the pectin container for water stains, holes, or any other sign that it's come into contact with food (like food stuck to the package). Check to make sure the package is sealed and that it's not past the use-by date.
Using pectin after the date on the package may affect your final product because the quality of the pectin may have deteriorated. Pectin wasn't always marked with a date. If your pectin container doesn't provide an expiration date, don't use it; it may be a sign that your product is extremely old.
Types of commercial fruit pectin
Pectin is available in two forms: liquid and powdered (dry). Although both products are made from fruit, they're not interchangeable. Be sure to use the correct type and amount of pectin your recipe calls for.
Using liquid fruit pectin
Liquid pectin is usually made from apples. Today, a box contains two 3-ounce pouches. The most common brand is Certo.
Liquid fruit pectin was originally sold in 6-ounce bottles. Older recipes may call for "one-half of a bottle." If you read a pouch of liquid pectin today, it states, "1 pouch equals 1/2 bottle."
Because you have to add your liquid pectin at the specified time and temperature, have it at the ready: Cut off the top of the pouch and stand it in a measuring cup or other container to keep it from spilling (see Figure 6-1). Then, when it's time to add the liquid pectin, add it all at the same time, squeezing the pouch with your fingers like you do to get the last bit of toothpaste out of the tube.
Figure 6-1: Getting a pouch of liquid pectin ready.
Using powdered (dry) fruit pectin
Powdered pectin is made from citrus fruits or apples. It comes in a box similar to a gelatin- or pudding-mix box and contains 1 3/4 ounces (the most commonly used size) or 2 ounces. Use the size stated in your recipe ingredients, and add it before you heat the fruit mixture.
In addition to different sizes, powdered pectin comes in two varieties: fruit pectin for homemade jams and jellies, and fruit pectin for lower-sugar recipes. Use the variety your recipe calls for; they're not interchangeable.
Setting Up without Adding Pectin
Not all recipes require the addition of extra pectin. Some recipes cook the fruit mixture for a long period of time, which reduces the liquid in the mixture to achieve the desired consistency.
For this process, you need patience and the knowledge of what to look for when testing your cooked product. Basically, you need to know what the spread's gel point is. (Gel point is the cooking point at which jelly is considered done.)
The gel point temperature is 8 degrees above boiling at an elevation of 1,000 feet above sea level or lower (220 degrees). If you're at an altitude higher than 1,000 feet above sea level, you can determine the temperature of your gel point by bringing a pot of water to a boil. When the water boils, check the temperature on your thermometer and add 8 degrees. This is the gel point for your altitude.
Use one of the following methods for testing the gel point:
A candy thermometer: This is the most accurate method for testing the gel point of your spread. Use a thermometer that's easy to read. One degree over or under the gel point makes a difference in your final product.
It's a good idea to have two candy thermometers. They are inexpensive and critical for perfect jelly making. If one breaks, you'll have a second one for backup during canning.
The spoon, or sheet, test (see Figure 6-2): Dip a cool metal spoon into your cooked fruit and hold it so the fruit runs off the spoon. When the temperature of the fruit approaches
the gel point, it falls off in a couple of drops. When it slides off the spoon in one sheet, the fruit's done. Proceed with your next step.
This test takes a bit of practice to master. Until you master it, use a candy thermometer in conjunction with this test. When the temperature of the fruit climbs toward the gel point, you'll be able to see the changes in the liquid and compare it to the sheeting from the spoon.
The plate test (see Figure 6-2): Place about 1 tablespoon of cooked fruit onto a chilled plate. Put the plate in the freezer and cool the spread to room temperature. If the fruit is set and doesn't roll around on the plate, the mixture is done. Proceed to your next step.
Figure 6-2: Gel testing your food: the spoon test and the plate test.
The Road to Sweet Canning Success
The only method for safely processing your sweet spreads, as approved by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA), is water-bath canning. The harmful bacteria and microorganisms living in high-acid foods are destroyed at the temperature of boiling water (212 degrees at 1,000 feet or lower above sea level) by sterilizing the food and vacuum-sealing the jar. For that reason, the recipes in the following sections all use water-bath canning. For complete details on water-bath canning, refer to Chapter 4.
Here are a couple of other tips to help you ensure your canning success:
Stick with tested recipes. They're always the best. Don't experiment with different quantities of ingredients in any canning method. Quantity adjustments to your fruit or your sugar can seriously change the acid (pH level) in your food. And if the acidity changes, you may not use the correct home-canning method to produce a safe product, free from microorganisms.
Always practice safe food-handling procedures. Complete each recipe, start to finish, without interruption. Any break between cooking your fruit to filling the jars and processing them may produce a product of inferior quality and one that may be unsafe for eating.
Jamming and canning
Jam is fun to make. It takes me (Karen) back to my childhood days when I created my own daily specials from crushed leaves, flowers, dirt, rocks, and water. I've grown up, but I still love playing with food. My husband is pleased to report that I now use real food instead of dirt and rocks!
Strawberry-Rhubarb Jam
Strawberries and rhubarb go together famously. This jam is a great way to get your family to try rhubarb, and it makes a great gift. You can make it throughout the year because frozen rhubarb works just like fresh.
Preparation time: 45 minutes
Processing time: 20 minutes
Yield: 3 pints
4 cups strawberries, crushed
2 1/2 cups chopped rhubarb
1/4 cup lemon juice
One 1.75-ounce package pectin powder
6 cups sugar
1 Prepare your canning jars and two-piece caps (lids and screw bands) according to the manufacturer's instructions. Keep the jars and lids hot. (For detailed instructions on preparing your jars, see Chapter 4.)
2 Hull and crush the strawberries. Clean the rhubarb; trim the ends and remove the leaves. Cut the rhubarb into 1/2-inch pieces.
3 Combine the strawberries, rhubarb, lemon juice, and pectin powder in a large saucepan. Bring the mixture to a boil over medium-high heat. Add the sugar, stirring to dissolve. Return the mixture to a full, rolling boil and boil hard for 1 minute. Remove the saucepan from the heat. Skim any foam from the surface with a foam skimmer, if necessary.
4 Ladle the boiling-hot jam into your hot jars, leaving 1/4 inch headspace. Release any air bubbles with a nonreactive utensil (refer to Chapter 3), adding more jam as necessary to maintain the proper headspace. Wipe the jar rims; seal the jars with the two-piece caps, hand-tightening the bands.
5 Process the filled pint jars in a water-bath canner for 20 minutes from the point of boiling. (Note: It doesn't matter if you have a less-than-full canner. Simply arrange the jars so that they're evenly spaced, if possible.)
6 Remove the jars from the canner with a jar lifter. Place them on a clean kitchen towel away from drafts. After the jars cool completely, test the seals. If you find jars that haven't sealed, refrigerate them and use them within two weeks.
Per 1-tablespoon serving: Calories 53 (From fat 0); Fat 0g (Saturated 0g); Cholesterol 0mg; Sodium 1mg; Carbohydrates 14g (Dietary fiber 0g); Protein 0g.
Jiggling with jelly
Jelly always has such a bright, cheerful look. It's a great last-minute appetizer that doesn't taste last-minute. Spoon a tart jelly, such as cranberry, over a block of cream cheese, allowing it to cascade over the sides. Serve it with rich, buttery crackers.
In order to achieve a bright, crystal-clear jelly, you need to properly strain your fruit. You can use a commercially manufactured stand and a jelly bag, or you can make your own by using a mesh strainer lined with several layers of cheesecloth (see Figure 6-3).
Dry fabric absorbs flavor from your fruit, weakening the flavor of your final product. Moisten your jelly bag (or cheesecloth) with cold water, wringing out any excess moisture before straining your liquid through it.
Figure 6-3: Straining jelly using a jelly bag and stand or a cheesecloth-lined strainer.
Herb Tea Jelly
Take your favorite herb teas one step further. Make them into jelly! This is a thin jelly, not thick like jam. Try your favorite herb tea blends and substitute a complimentary juice.
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Processing time: 20 minutes
Yield: 5 half-pints
2 cups water
12 tea bags of your favorite herbal tea
3 cups sugar
1 cup apple juice
One 3-ounce package of liquid pectin
1 Bring the water to a boil in a 3-quart saucepan over high heat. Remove the pan from the heat and steep the tea bags, covered, for 30 minutes.
2 While the tea is steeping, prepare your canning jars and two-piece caps (lids and screw bands) according to the manufacturer's instructions. Keep the jars and lids hot. (For detailed instructions on preparing your jars, see Chapter 4.)
3 After your tea has steeped for 30 minutes, remove the tea bags from the water and stir in the sugar and apple juice. Boil the mixture for 2 minutes; then remove the pan from the heat and stir in the pectin. Boil for 2 more minutes.
4 Fill the prepared jars with boiling liquid, leaving 1/4-inch headspace. Release any air bubbles with a nonreactive utensil (refer to Chapter 3), adding more liquid as necessary to maintain the proper headspace. Wipe the jar rims; seal the jars with the two-piece caps, hand-tightening the bands.
5 Process the filled half-pint jars in a water-bath canner for 20 minutes from the point of boiling.
6 Remove the jars from the canner with a jar lifter. Place them on a clean kitchen towel away from drafts. After the jars cool completely, test the seals. If you find jars that haven't sealed, refrigerate them and use them within two weeks.
Per 1-tablespoon serving: Calories 41 (From fat 0); Fat 0g (Saturated 0g); Cholesterol 0mg; Sodium 0mg; Carbohydrates 11g (Dietary fiber 0g); Protein 0g.
Mastering marmalade, butters, and more
Introduce your family and friends to the spreads that were once more common than jams and jellies. Add variety to your canning pantry while you share the wonderful flavors and textures with those lucky enough to be around when you open a jar. After all, there's more to marmalade than oranges.
Kumquat Marmalade
Kumquats have a thin, sweet skin and a very sour flesh. Eat a kumquat by popping the whole thing into your mouth and chew (watch out for the seeds). You have to slice the fruit by hand, but it's worth the effort when you taste the fabulous flavor.
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 30 minutes
Processing time: 10 minutes
Yield: 7 half-pints
2 pounds kumquats, unpeeled
11/2 cups water
1/8 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 cup fresh lemon juice (about 2 to 3 lem
ons)
5 cups granulated sugar
One 3-ounce pouch liquid fruit pectin
1 Slice the kumquats in half lengthwise; then slice each half into fourths lengthwise. Discard the bitter seeds. Place the kumquats into a 6- to 8-quart pot. Add the water and the baking soda. Bring the mixture to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat and simmer, covered, for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the lemon juice and simmer, covered, for 10 minutes longer, stirring occasionally.
2 While the kumquats are cooking, prepare your canning jars and two-piece caps (lids and screw bands) according to the manufacturer's instructions. Keep the jars and lids hot. (For detailed instructions on preparing your jars, see Chapter 4.)
3 Stir the sugar into your cooked fruit. Bring the mixture to a full, rolling boil over high heat. Boil hard for 1 minute, stirring constantly. Remove the pan from the heat. Add the pectin, stirring to combine. Remove any foam from the surface with a foam skimmer.
4 Ladle your hot marmalade into the prepared jars, leaving 1/4-inch headspace. Release any air bubbles with a nonreactive utensil (refer to Chapter 3), adding more marmalade as necessary to maintain the proper headspace. Wipe the jar rims; seal the jars with the two-piece caps, hand-tightening the bands.
5 Process the filled jars in a water-bath canner for 10 minutes from the point of boiling.
6 Remove the jars from the boiling water with a jar lifter. Place them on a clean kitchen towel away from drafts. After the jars cool completely, test the seals. If you find jars that haven't sealed, refrigerate them and use them within two months.