by Di Morrissey
It was peaceful with the breeze in their faces. As they chugged along they were all wrapped in their own thoughts. The river was more than a kilometre across and smooth and apart from a flash of wings dashing across the water from the jungle on one side to the jungle on the other, they saw little sign of life.
Then up ahead the dark shape of a dredge loomed midstream. Royston pointed and the captain nodded, turning the tiller towards it.
Alongside, Royston heaved his hammock and his haversack with a packet of Foam washing powder protruding from it onto the mining dredge which would be his home for the coming months.
‘Good luck, Royston,’ called Madi.
‘And to you,’ he answered and lifted his hat as they moved away. They soon passed other dredges, flat barge affairs with equipment, generators, small cabin-style houses and plastic roofs to shade them. The plastic reflected and refracted in the sunlight on the water. Some of the dredges were moored in the shadows of the banks and all looked deserted.
‘Where is everyone? Are they diving or ashore?’ wondered Madi out loud. One had some tattered washing strung out to dry beneath a tarpaulin roof but it still looked abandoned.
‘Down in Georgetown for the cricket,’ said Captain Blaise. ‘When de West Indies play, ever’ting stop.’
Madi glanced at the young Amerindian boy, who was now keeping a wary eye on the water.
‘What’s he looking for?’ asked Connor.
‘Tacubas, partly submerged logs, or sharp rocks just below the surface,’ replied Ann.
John pointed at the stream of foamy white bubbles that began to appear on the surface of the river. ‘Rapids ahead.’
‘How far ahead?’ asked Sharee, sounding worried.
‘Time to turn ourselves into mules and packhorses,’ grinned John.
They nosed into shore and unloaded everything including the engine. Connor helped Madi on with her backpack. ‘You okay with this? John said it’s about a kilometre.’
‘Give me the other bag and my hammock, I’m fine.’
‘Atta girl.’
The trek around the rapids, which were obscured by trees, was steep with a shaky log bridge to be crossed. Madi could hear the crashing rush of water over rocks and wished she could see the tumbling rapids.
At the end of the trek, everything was loaded into a second canoe which was waiting for them. Then they sat on flat rocks at the edge of the river and ate lunch.
Connor, beside Madi, watched the Amerindian boy throw a fishing line into the swirling water. ‘I wouldn’t want to fall in there.’
‘Gwen had some close calls in the rapids. In those days they had to paddle all the way up the river,’ said Madi, who was finding the heroine of her travels coming more and more into her mind as they travelled further towards Kaieteur Falls.
‘Have you seen the canoe? The boats are getting smaller.’
‘You mean we’re all going in that one! I thought there must be two canoes. How are we going to fit?’ exclaimed Madi.
‘Snugly,’ said Connor leaning against her and putting his arm around her shoulder to give her a hug.
Madi grinned at him. ‘This is fun. Aren’t you glad you came?’
‘Bailing a leaky canoe, dragging gear up hill and down dale, wondering what danger and drama waits around the next bend?’
‘Exactly,’ laughed Madi.
Captain Blaise pushed the canoe into the rushing water, jumped in and yanked at the outboard, but nothing happened. The captain yanked again at the cord of the outboard, getting only a rheumatic gurgle in response. The boy pulled out a paddle and began to work it furiously. John, closest to him, took the paddle from his small arms and dug strongly into the water. The captain tried to nose back towards the bank or find a rock to anchor against. But the overloaded canoe drifted backwards with the current as the captain struggled with the engine and John paddled fruitlessly.
Madi reached for Connor’s hand. ‘I might get my wish to see these rapids. When do we bail out?’
‘Now, now! Gwen would ride the rapids. Ever been whitewater rafting? It’s fun.’
Madi shook her head, but at that moment the outboard roared to life and they surged forward to everyone’s relief.
When Captain Blaise finally berthed upriver, they were all glad to see a somewhat larger and sturdier longboat waiting to take them on the final leg. Now they headed steadily upstream in the stillness of the early afternoon. For Madi, the scenes Gwen had described were coming vividly to life.
Viti passed homemade guava juice and lemonade and they chatted idly as the afternoon melted slowly into the river and forest on either side of the broad smooth water.
Captain Blaise spoke quietly. ‘Soon be able to see him.’
‘Who? You mean the falls?’ asked Madi, excitement welling in her.
‘Are we that close?’ added Connor.
‘Long way off,’ grinned the captain, ‘but from this next bend in the river you look up dat way, you see Kaieteur.’
Everyone in the boat craned to where he pointed. ‘No matter how often you see it, the thrill never fades,’ said Ann quietly. In silence they all looked upwards at the steep green hills as the boat moved up the middle of the river.
‘There’s water, is that it?’ cried Sharee. ‘To the right.’
‘No, that be Grandmother’s Armchair. They little falls,’ said Captain Blaise.
Then in the crease of the hills they saw it and a shout went up. There was no mistaking the width of water dropping, dropping, down into a hidden gorge. A distant silver ribbon that was quickly, tantalisingly, lost from sight. Until around the next bend in the river it appeared again, an incredible length of distant sparkling silver hidden in the folds of impenetrable jungle-clad hills. They stared in silence at the far off sight, trying to imagine how awesome it must be close up. Then it was lost from sight again.
‘We won’t see it again till we get to the top,’ said John.
‘Looks a hell of a hike,’ said Connor.
‘It is,’ remarked Ann. ‘Walk at your own pace. It isn’t a race.’
By late afternoon as the sun began to slide behind the high hills they glimpsed in the distance a white speck ahead on the edge of the river. ‘That’s the base camp for Kaieteur,’ announced Captain Blaise.
‘We’ll have a warmer welcome than last night,’ said Ann. ‘The Bells are a dear old couple who have been caretakers here for years.’
‘Nothing much has changed in three decades,’ added John.
Slowly the little white speck grew larger and revealed itself to be a simple house, windows open, standing behind slips of dark figures who waited on the sandy strip of beach.
Captain Blaise cut the engine and they glided in, the boy leaping out and pushing the canoe into the shallows till it jammed on the sandy bottom. They all jumped out to cries of welcome and greetings.
‘I be Roy Bell,’ beamed the gnarled old man. His happy plump wife enfolded Madi, the first to reach her, in a hug. ‘And I be Hilda.’
John and Ann greeted the Bells warmly. ‘We bring messages, some mail and supplies.’
The resthouse was whitewashed, cool and clean and perfumed from the garden. Two sets of bedrooms stacked with bunks went to the left and right off the main room. ‘Boys one side, girls t’other,’ announced Ann.
Madi quickly rolled back the mattress, relieved to find it unoccupied by wildlife.
A long table was set outside under an awning. As the unpacking and organising swirled around her Madi stood to one side taking in her surroundings. Behind the resthouse was a little cottage belonging to the Bells—with an outdoor kitchen under a thatched roof. Their farm was behind that and off to the right was the gorge that led to the base of Kaieteur five kilometres away. Water from the falls bounced into rapids, then partly ran off into a stream that gurgled and rushed, and finally calmed and gently melted into the still water before the house.
Flat rocks led out to the deep water which was backed by dark hills in the distance.
In the middle a rocky islet looked like an easy swim. Between the shore and the islet the water looked cool and inviting. In minutes everyone had found swimsuits and raced into the sunset waters to wash away the rigours of the journey. Connor produced his hard water soap and was amazed to find it lathered. Madi untied her hair braid, loosening her golden hair into the water. Connor reached for her and soaped her head, rubbing her scalp with his strong fingers. She lay back in his arms wondering if Gwen had ever felt as happy as this.
‘Rinse off,’ he commanded, pushing her beneath the water and laughing as she came spluttering to the surface to try to push him under.
Refreshed they all settled around the outdoor table for their first civilised meal since they had set out, glad that an antique kerosene refrigerator offered some degree of chill for the food and drinks.
Mr Bell came by and quickly accepted an offer of rum. ‘You want to make punch, dere’s a big tree out de back full of ripe limes.’
‘Sounds good. Who’s for a little fruit picking?’ asked John.
‘I will,’ offered Madi.
‘I’ll help. There’s a bucket in the kitchen.’ Connor followed her across the moonlit open sandy soil to the tree.
‘Umm, this smells good,’ Madi sniffed at the tangy fruit and the few sweet blossoms still on the branches. They both reached for the same fruit and their hands touched. She turned to Connor and in the moonlight beneath the lime tree they kissed, each stunned at the passion the kiss aroused. Connor caught his breath and drew back. ‘We’d better be careful, this place is magic I think,’ he said softly.
‘Frightened of spells?’ Madi smiled in the darkness. ‘Lime juice is guaranteed to cure them.’
She reached her arms around his neck and firmly pulled his head to hers until their lips were touching again. And she held him until their kiss almost took their breath away. Surprised at herself for being so in control of the moment, she finally let him go and turned towards the lime that still hung on the branch. ‘You can pick that one,’ she grinned.
Together they filled the bucket and holding it between them walked like Jack and Jill to the house. Madi glanced at the water. ‘Looks very fishy. I love fishing, do you?’
‘I’ve been known to throw a line in now and again.’
They asked Mr Bell if there were fish in the river and he nodded emphatically. ‘I get lines, you catch breakfast.’
‘Finish your drink first, Mr Bell,’ Connor added.
Connor and Madi cast their lines then settled themselves on a blanket on a small strip of coarse river sand between two low rocks. A full moon rose from behind the ring of hills turning the water to a gleaming pewter grey. And over those hills could be heard the wash coming from smaller falls called Old Man’s Beard.
It was Madi who suddenly noticed a small moving light. ‘What’s that? Is it someone far away with a torch? Oh, it’s gone off.’
They watched and waited and in seconds the little light flicked on again followed by another and another, small dancing lights that appeared to be in a line.
‘Min min lights,’ laughed Connor. ‘No, they’re fireflies.’
They watched, entranced, as the glowing conga line swerved and swayed out across the water.
‘How magic, like dancing fairies,’ sighed Madi. ‘I’m going to remember this all my life.’
‘Me too,’ breathed Connor reaching for her.
The fishing lines lay ignored as they wound their arms about each other, mouths and lips burning with an intensity that swept away all barriers and shyness. In minutes, each knew they had passed the point of no return.
Connor slowly and gently fumbled with Madi’s clothes, sensing a shyness and hesitancy on her part, kissing her lightly all the while. Madi stiffened for a moment, then melted again under the passionate touch of Connor’s lips. There could never be a more romantic setting, never a more perfect moment to make love, and she surrendered to it all. Thoughts of being emotionally hurt again were swept away and she sighed with pleasure as he kissed her breasts. With equal ardour she began to take off his clothes. While not retreating from the moment, in the back of her mind came the realisation that she’d never experienced this elation and surge of desire before. The first time she’d had sex with Geoff he had taken her in the back seat of his car around the corner from the tennis courts. It had happened before she was aware of what they were doing and afterwards had felt slightly taken advantage of, though she knew she could have stopped him if she’d insisted. In retrospect she’d realised all his lovemaking was selfish, it never occurred to him to ask about taking precautions either.
Madi shyly drew back from Connor for an instant. ‘Connor, shouldn’t we be careful? I mean, I hadn’t exactly planned on this happening.’
‘Me either, despite what you might think. All I can say is that I’ve been careful and taken precautions. I haven’t had many different women. I don’t do one-night stands,’ he added quietly.
‘Is this a one-night stand?’ asked Madi seriously.
‘I hope not. It’s up to you, Madi. I’ve been a bit confused about my feelings for you over these past weeks. At first I thought it was just lust—you’re so attractive, not just your body,’ he kissed her nipple lightly, and continued with sincerity, ‘but your personality, your strength of character, so many other things started to grow on me. I’d like to think there was something special between us.’
‘Not just a holiday romance?’ Madi hugged him to her. ‘I had one fling after my marriage broke up—more to reassure myself I was still appealing as I’d felt so rejected. But that was safe sex all the way. There hasn’t been anyone for a long time. I just can’t separate the physical sensations from my emotions . . . they say men can do that.’
‘That’s not true. So, do you have any feelings towards me?’
‘I have to say, I have strong feelings for you too, Connor.’
They lay in each other’s arms feeling close and loving, each digesting the remarks of the other.
‘You don’t suppose we’re being swept away by the magic and romance of this place?’ asked Madi finally.
‘What I feel for you started at the airport when I met you, Madi. I went to meet a mate’s little sister and was knocked out by this incredible lady. And it wasn’t the blonde good looks either. Do you believe in chemistry between people?’
‘It’s not a matter of believing, it’s fact.’ Madi began to shiver.
Connor covered her body with his. ‘Are you cold?’
‘No.’ Madi couldn’t explain the sudden shaking that had swept over her as the full implication of what Connor was saying sank in. ‘I’m not ready for any sort of commitment, Connor. I wish I hadn’t met you so soon. But I do feel drawn to you too . . . I don’t know what to think.’ She buried her head in his shoulder.
He held her tightly, struggling to control the passion she aroused in him. ‘Don’t do anything you don’t want to, Madi . . .’ He began to kiss her again then recoiled with a sharp ‘Ouch!’ and sat up.
‘What’s up?’ Madi stared at him in concern as he began slapping at his back and bottom.
‘Damned midgies or something are biting me like crazy. I didn’t put repellent on this part of my body. I didn’t expect to be out here naked.’
Madi began to laugh as he danced about slapping and scratching. ‘Quick, put your clothes on, I’ve got some rub-on stuff in my jeans pocket. Pass me my jeans.’
‘God, talk about cooling the fires of passion. Ouch, why aren’t they biting you?’ complained Connor.
Madi suddenly felt a sharp sting on her shoulder. ‘They are!’
As they hurriedly dressed in fits of giggles, both fishing lines zinged and began to unreel. Madi had her reel in her discarded shoe but Connor’s went rolling along the sand as the fish on the other end raced away with Hilda’s cassava dough ball. ‘Bloody hell.’ With one leg in his shorts, he stumbled after his line while Madi began pulling hers in as she continued to laugh.
In the torchlight th
ey peered at their catch. ‘Gawd, catfish. Watch that spine on its back, it’s lethal,’ said Connor. ‘Well it can do for bait, let’s see what else is out there.’
In ten minutes they had fifteen catfish then the catches stopped. ‘That must be all that’s running at the moment. Let’s call it a night. I’ll clean them and we’ll use them for bait in the morning.’
As they returned to the house where John and Ann were the only ones still up, the twosome were subjected to some good-natured ribbing.
‘So where are the fish?’
‘We heard some jollity down there.’
‘Pretty romantic spot, huh?’
‘It was till the fly attacks started and there are more than a dozen catfish of decent size waiting to be turned into bait to catch breakfast,’ retorted Connor.
‘Hey, don’t use them all for bait,’ said John. ‘Mr and Mrs Bell will eat them. Put them in a dish and leave them by their door.’
This time Sharee had taken the bottom bunk. Viti and Ann were in double decker bunks on the other side of the room. Madi climbed up, trying not to disturb Sharee, pleased to find Mrs Bell had made up the bunk with clean if well-worn sheets and a thin coverlet.
Madi lay down thinking about Connor, trying to analyse how she felt. She did find him physically attractive and she liked him. She enjoyed his company and his sense of humour, and she knew if she let herself go she could fall wildly in love with him. The longing to be in love, to have someone love her back, who respected and liked her, was immensely appealing. But she’d been badly hurt and she’d promised herself that in the future she’d proceed with caution.
She had met Connor under somewhat unreal circumstances. Would their relationship be the same if they were living more normal lives in a boring city? And besides they were on different paths at the moment. Guyana was merely an interlude for her and, wonderful as it was, it would soon end. She’d come here to mend a fragile heart and restore her self-esteem, hoping to find a new and positive direction for her life. She certainly wasn’t going to leave here with her life again in tatters. This time she would let her head not her heart dictate her actions.