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Imbibe! Page 28

by David Wondrich


  2 OUNCES COGNAC

  ½ OUNCE PEACH SCHNAPPS

  ½ OUNCE JÄGERMEISTER

  Stir and strain into a chilled cocktail glass.

  BAKEWELL PUNCH

  BY BEN REED

  Author and IPBartender

  1 LIME WEDGE (SQUEEZED TIGHTLY AND DROPPED INTO SHAKER)

  5 RASPBERRIES

  35 ML [1¼ OZ] WRAY AND NEPHEW WHITE OVERPROOF RUM

  35 ML [1¼ OZ] FRESH PINK GRAPEFRUIT JUICE

  10 ML [2 TSP] CANE SYRUP

  10 ML [2 TSP] ORGEAT SYRUP

  Gently muddle the lime and the raspberries to extract essential oils from the lime skin. Shake all the ingredients sharply over cubed ice, strain (through a fine strainer) into a small bar-glass filled with cracked ice, and garnish with two raspberries and a lime zest (edge the glass). Serve with two straws.

  BERRY INTERESTING

  BY FRANCESCO LAFRANCONI

  Director of Mixology, Southern Wine & Spirits, Inc.

  1½ OUNCES PLYMOUTH OR TANQUERAY NO. TEN GIN

  ¾ OUNCE COINTREAU

  2 DASHES FEE BROTHERS PEACH BITTERS

  3-4 WHOLE FRESH RASPBERRIES

  1 OUNCE FRESH SWEET & SOUR (PASTEURIZED EGG WHITE—OPTIONAL

  FOR A FOAMY LOOK)

  Shake all ingredients with ice. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass or serve over crushed ice in a tumbler glass.

  Garnish with lemon twist and fresh raspberries on a cocktail stick.

  CALVINO

  BY EBEN KLEMM

  Director of Cocktail Development, B. R. Guest Restaurant Group

  2½ OUNCES PLYMOUTH GIN

  TINY SPLASH MYRTLEBERRY AMARO

  ½ OUNCE GRAPEFRUIT JUICE

  Shake all ingredients over ice and strain into cocktail glass that has approximately 2 tablespoons Campari-rose foam8 in the bottom. Garnish with a petal of yellow rose or Chicago peace rose.

  Soak two sheets gelatin in ice water.

  In a saucepan over medium heat, stir ¼ liter rosehip jam into ¼ liter Campari until it dissolves. Bring to 60 degrees Celsius, to a light simmer at most.

  Remove from heat.

  Remove gelatin from water, gently squeeze out excess water, and whisk into Campari mix until completely dissolved. Strain. When mixture is cool (you may keep for a couple of days in refrigerator beforehand or accelerate by putting in ice bath) add to whipped cream canister following the instructions of the manufacturer.

  Charge with two nitrogen canisters, shaking gently each time. Store in cooler. I recommend storing the canister upside down for 1 hour just before the first use.

  CHERRY SMASH

  BY JULIE REINER

  Co-owner and Mixologist, Flatiron Lounge, New York

  1½ OUNCES COURVOSIER VS COGNAC

  ¾ OUNCE ORANGE CURAÇAO

  ¾ OUNCE FRESH LEMON JUICE

  ½ OUNCE CHERRY HEERING

  Muddle 4 brandied cherries in a mixing glass.

  Add all other ingredients and shake well with ice.

  Strain into a cocktail glass and garnish with 2 brandied cherries.

  HORSERADISH EGG SOUR

  BY RYAN MAGARIAN

  Mixologist at large

  1½ OUNCES HORSERADISH-INFUSED VODKA*

  ¼ OUNCE NOILLY PRAT SWEET VERMOUTH

  ¾ OUNCE FRESH LEMON JUICE

  ½ OUNCE SIMPLE SYRUP

  ½ OUNCE FRESH ORANGE JUICE

  1 DASH ANGOSTURA BITTERS

  1 WHITE OF AN ORGANIC BROWN EGG

  Combine ingredients in a pint shaker glass.

  Fill glass with ice, shake vigorously for 10 seconds, and strain into a 7½-ounce cocktail glass. Garnish with flamed orange peel.

  *HORSERADISH-INFUSED VODKA:

  1 750 ML BOTTLE OF VODKA (I GENERALLY USE FRÏS, BUT MOST MID-

  RANGE WHEAT-BASED VODKAS WILL BE FINE.)

  ½ CUP CLEANED, PEELED AND THINLY SLICED HORSERADISH

  Let sit for one turn of the earth and strain through cheesecloth into a sealable glass container.

  LULU COCKTAIL

  BY TED “DR. COCKTAIL” HAIGH

  Author, Vintage Spirits & Forgotten Cocktails (2004)

  2 OUNCES ST. CROIX RUM

  3 DASHES OF PEYCHAUD BITTERS

  2 BARSPOONS OF PORT

  1 DASH OF CRÈME DE NOYEAU

  1 PINCH OF NUTMEG

  1 BROAD SWATCH OF FRESH ORANGE PEEL,TWISTED SMARTLY

  ATOP THE COCKTAIL SHAKER AND DROPPED IN.

  Combine ingredients in a well-iced cocktail shaker. Shake well and strain into a 3½-ounce stemmed cocktail glass. Garnish with an orange twist.

  “MISTER” COLLINS

  BY WAYNE COLLINS

  Brands Mixology Senior Manager, Maxxium Worldwide

  1 OUNCE FRESHLY SQUEEZED LEMON JUICE

  2 DASHES ANGOSTURA BITTERS

  2 BARSPOONS LYCHEE SYRUP*

  1½ OUNCES PLYMOUTH GIN

  Shake ingredients well with ice. Strain into a chilled sour glass and charge with American dry ginger ale.

  *TO MAKE LYCHEE SYRUP SIMPLY ADD THE SWEET JUICE FROM TIN OF LYCHEES (OR RAMBUTANS) IN SYRUP AND MIX WITH A LITTLE PLAIN SUGAR SYRUP OR,ALTERNATIVELY, USE A GOOD-QUALITY LYCHEE LIQUEUR IFYOU HAVE IT.

  MODERN TEA PUNCH

  BY FERNANDO CASTELLON

  Author, Larousse des cocktails (2004)

  (OLD-FASHIONED [ROCKS] GLASS.)

  METHOD: SHAKER

  TYPE OF ICE: CUBES

  ½ OUNCE SUGAR CANE SYRUP

  ½ OUNCE FRESH LIME JUICE

  3 OUNCE COGNAC (HENNESSY VSOP)

  2 BARSPOONS OF RAW GREEN TEA (SENCHA TYPE)

  GARNISH: LONG LIME TWIST

  Pour the ingredients in the glass part of the shaker (except the lime twist) and add 4 to 5 ice cubes. Fit the stainless steel part of the shaker and shake vigorously until the shaker is very cold. Strain into an Old-Fashioned glass full of ice using a cocktail strainer and a tea strainer (fine-mesh strainer). Twist the long lime peel over the glass and drop it in the drink. Serve immediately.

  ROCHESTER COCKTAIL

  BY ROBERT HESS

  www.drinkboy.com

  2 OUNCES RYE WHISKEY

  1 OUNCE DUBONNET

  ½ OUNCE LICOR 43

  ¼ OUNCE ABSINTHE

  2 DASHES ANGOSTURA BITTERS

  Stir, up, garnish with a lemon twist.

  SIERRA COBBLER

  BY DANIEL ESTREMADOYRO

  Head Bartender, Pucara Bar, Cordoba, Argentina

  Fill a large bar-glass with cracked ice and add:

  1 TABLESPOON SIMPLE SYRUP

  2 OUNCES PERUVIAN PISCO ITALIA

  A FEW DROPS OF FERNET BRANCA

  Fill to the top with Cedron (Lemon verbena) cold infusion.* Finally, place several strips of lemon and orange peel on top.

  Shake well, garnish with berries and fresh cedron leaves. Serve with straws.

  *CEDRON COLD INFUSION: PLACE 5 OR 6 DRIED LEMON VERBENA LEAVES INTO A PINT OF BOILING WATER AND LET IT COOL AT LEAST FOR 1 HOUR, IN ORDER TO EXTRACT FULL COLOR AND FLAVOR.

  SPICED CIDER TODDY

  BY TONY ABOU GHANIM

  www.modernmixologist.com

  5 CINNAMON STICKS

  30 WHOLE CLOVES

  ½ VANILLA BEAN

  1 GALLON APPLE CIDER

  ½ CUP CLOVER HONEY

  25 OUNCES HOMEMADE ROCK & RYE**

  (SERVES 15)

  Start by breaking the cinnamon sticks and cloves and bruising the vanilla bean. Next make a mirepoix bag with the spices. In a large saucepan combine cider, honey, and mirepoix bag; bring to a boil and let cool for at least 4 hours. Remove mirepoix bag and reheat cider when ready to serve, adding the Rock & Rye at the last moment. Serve in heated mugs with a cinnamon stick garnish.

  **HOMEMADE ROCK & RYE (RECIPE FROM THE GENTLEMAN’S COMPANION, 1938, BY CHARLES H. BAKER, JR.):

  RYE WHISKEY, 1/5 GALLON, NOT A FULL QUART

  JAMAICA RUM, JIGGER

  ROCK CANDY, ½ CUP, LEAVE IN LARGE LUMPS


  WHOLE CLOVES, 1 DOZ.

  QUARTERED SMALL CALIFORNIA ORANGE, PEEL LEFT ON

  QUARTERED SEEDLESS LEMON, PEEL LEFT ON

  1 STICK OF CINNAMON, OR 2

  Put ingredients in a jar, cover with Rye, and stand for a fortnight. Strain out spices through fine cloth or filter paper. Put back on fruit until needed.

  TOM & JERRY & AUDREY

  BY AUDREY SAUNDERS

  Co-owner and Mixologist, Pegu Club, New York

  12 FRESH EGGS (YOLKS & WHITES SEPARATED)

  2 POUNDS WHITE SUGAR

  6 TABLE SPOON FINE MADAGASCAR VANILLA EXTRACT

  1½ TEASPOONS GROUND CINNAMON

  ¼ TEASPOON GROUND CLOVES

  6 OUNCES BOILING MILK

  ½ TEASPOON GROUND ALLSPICE

  2 OUNCES BACARDI 8 ANEJO RUM

  1 OUNCE COURVOISIER VS COGNAC

  ½ TEASPOON GROUND NUTMEG

  4 DASHES ANGOSTURA BITTERS

  Prepare the batter: Beat egg yolks until they are thin as water.Add sugar, spices, rum, and vanilla to egg yolks (while beating). Beat egg whites until stiff and fold them into the egg yolk mixture. Refrigerate. To serve: Place 2 ounces of batter in an Irish coffee mug.Add 1 ounce of Bacardi Anejo rum, and 1 ounce of Courvoisier VS Cognac.Fill with 6 ounces boiling milk. Dust with freshly grated nutmeg.

  TOMBSTONE

  BY DAVID WONDRICH

  SHAKE WELL WITH CRACKED ICE:

  2 OZ 100- OR 101-PROOF STRAIGHT RYE WHISKEY

  1 TEASPOON RICH SIMPLE SYRUP*

  2 DASHES ANGOSTURA BITTERS

  Strain into chilled cocktail glass and twist a thin-cut swatch of lemon peel over the top.

  *TO MAKE RICH SIMPLE SYRUP, STIR 4 CUPS DEMERARA SUGAR AND 2 CUPS WATER OVER LOW HEAT UNTIL ALL SUGAR HAS DISSOLVED. LET COOL, BOTTLE,AND ADD ½-OUNCE GRAIN ALCOHOL OR 151-PROOF RUM TO RETARD SPOILAGE.

  VELVET WILLIAMS

  BY ANISTATIA MILLER AND JARED BROWN

  Authors of Shaken Not Stirred:A Celebration of the Martini (1997)

  2 OUNCES FRESH GREEN COCONUT WATER

  2 OUNCES FRESH PINEAPPLE JUICE

  1½ OUNCES PLYMOUTH GIN

  1 SPLASH COINTREAU

  1 DASH ANGOSTURA BITTERS

  ½ FRESH ORGANIC EGG WHITE

  Mix all ingredients in a shaker filled with ice. Shake vigorously until icy cold. Strain into a large, chilled cocktail glass. Cut an orange twist with a vegetable peeler to reduce the amount of pith. Flame the twist over the top and add to the drink.

  WHISKEY PEACH SMASH

  BY DALE DEGROFF

  Author, Craft of the Cocktail (2002)

  5 MINT LEAVES AND 1 MINT SPRIG

  3 PEACH SLICES

  ½ LEMON, QUARTERED

  1 OUNCE ORANGE CURAÇAO (NOTHING LESS THAN MARIE BRIZARD,

  BOLS, OR HIRAM WALKER)

  2 OUNCES BONDED BOURBON WHISKEY

  Muddle the mint leaves,2 peach slices, lemon pieces, and the orange curaçao together in the bottom of a bar-glass.Add the bourbon and ice and shake well. Strain into an iced rocks glass. Garnish with mint sprig and remaining peach slice.

  CHAPTER 9

  BITTERS AND SYRUPS

  Most nineteenth-century bartender’s guides closed with a section on compounding bitters and syrups and producing cheap booze out of raw whiskey and various natural, if dodgy, and artificial flavorings. Since this book is devoted to the best traditions of the bar, I’ll ignore that last part entirely. As for the bitters and syrups, were these to receive the attention they deserve, they would easily fill another volume the size of this one. But I shall confine myself to offering formulae for three kinds of bitters (including Jerry Thomas’s own, for historical purposes) and a handful of essential syrups.

  I have not indicated individual sources for botanicals and other ingredients. In general, they are relatively easy to source online, but I am reluctant to give websites for each as these have a distressing habit of disappearing as soon as they appear in print. But I will say that two I have found to be stable and reliable are www.baldwins.co.uk and www.frontiercoop.com.

  BITTERS

  Fortunately, the return of the Cocktail has brought in its wake a renewed interest in bitters, and every year brings more varieties on the market. Orange bitters, for a long time a rarity, are now much easier to find (both Fee’s West Indian Orange Bitters and Regans’ Orange Bitters #6 can easily be located online). Here, however, are three kinds that cannot yet be purchased.

  JERRY THOMAS’S OWN DECANTER BITTERS

  This is one recipe in Jerry Thomas’s book that we can be absolutely sure is his own. Evidently, it was successful enough for Thomas to keep making it, or something like it, since the 1871 Bonfort’s Wine & Liquor Circular devoted to the Thomas brothers’ cellar closes by mentioning that “Mr. Jerry Thomas makes a very wholesome kind of bitters, for the use of his bar, himself.” Unfortunately, modern medical science begs to differ about their wholesome nature, since aristolochic acid, found in the Virginia snakeroot (aristolochia serpentaria) Thomas used to give the bitters their herbal punch, has been proven to cause liver failure, and snakeroot can no longer be purchased. Nor can it be adequately replaced: Having taken the trouble to grow some from cuttings, I can attest that this fragrant, spicy root imparts a bewitching I-know-not-what to the bitters that is unlike anything I know.

  I offer the Professor’s recipe—which was clearly sold as a tonic, by the glass—for its historical interest only and do not recommend that it be reproduced or consumed.

  (BOTTLE AND SERVE IN PONY-GLASS.)

  TAKE ¼ POUND OF RAISINS

  2 OUNCES OF CINNAMON

  1 OUNCE OF SNAKE-ROOT

  1 LEMON AND 1 ORANGE CUT IN SLICES

  1 OUNCE OF CLOVES

  1 OUNCE OF ALLSPICE

  Fill decanter with Santa Cruz rum.

  As fast as the bitters is used fill up again with rum.

  SOURCE: JERRY THOMAS, 1862

  STOUGHTON’S BITTERS

  There is a surfeit of old recipes for Stoughton’s Bitters in existence, but unfortunately none of them can be traced to the good doctor himself (then again, I must confess that I have not yet searched through the British patent office records from 1712, if indeed they still exist). Most of the existing recipes contain snakeroot. Here is one that does not. It is a composite recipe from several sources, the earliest of which is Charles B. Campbell’s 1867 American Bartender.

  Macerate one-quarter ounce of chamomile flowers and one-half ounce each of gentian root, bitter orange peel, cassia bark, and calumba root in thirty ounces of brandy and ten ounces of grain alcohol.After two weeks, stir in one ounce by weight of burnt sugar, strain through filter paper and bottle.

  SOURCE: COMPOSITE

  NOTES ON INGREDIENTS: The burnt sugar can be purchased in some ethnic food stores, or you can make your own. Many recipes for Stoughton’s Bitters call for them to be colored with cochineal; this can easily be replaced by a few drops of red food coloring, in which case the burnt sugar should be reduced by at least half (it is merely there for coloring).

  NOTES ON EXECUTION: If you plan on making bitters frequently, it will be worthwhile to acquire a vacuum filtration rig (aka Büchner funnel/flask), which will make filtering your bitters quick and easy. Otherwise, you’ll need a coffee filter and a lot of patience.

  BOKER’S BITTERS

  I won’t delve deeply into the complex history of Boker’s Bitters. The leading Cocktail bitters for much of the nineteenth century, they were produced by the L. J. Funke Company of New York City. By Prohibition, their heavy, Christmas-spiced nature made them quite old-fashioned. An adequate substitute is Fee Brothers’ Old-Fashioned Aromatic Bitters (see www.feebrothers.com). Or you can make your own, as many a bartender did. This English formula for them hails from 1883, when there was still plenty of genuine Boker’s around to test it against.

 

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