by Freya Stark
Obne, 305.
Oman, 312, 314.
Perowne, Stewart, 136n.
Philby, H. St. John, 176.
Pike, Professor, 133, 293n.
Punt, land of, 247n.
Qabr Salih, 167.
Qadas, 254.
Qadhi, the, 85, 97–8, 109, 113–14, 120, 133–4, 140, 154, 166, 168, 171, 174, 184–6, 199.
Qahtan, children of, 117.
Qarn, 211.
Qasim, the cook, 12, 18–20, 24, 29, 35–6, 38, 41–3, 45, 47–8, 50, 54, 66, 68–9, 71–4, 76, 78–9, 90, 95, 101, 103, 106, 110, 115, 128, 130, 140–2, 150, 164, 166, 182, 189, 192–3, 208–9, 211, 213, 219, 221, 232, 236–7, 239–40, 263, 288, 290, 310.
Qatn, 41, 65, 82, 85, 104.
Ali, Sultan of, 88, 96, 109, 200.
Qishé, 254.
Qishn, 133.
Qu’aiti, 42.
Qu’aitis of Qatn, 89, 99.
Qudha’a, a watch-tower, 215.
Qul’a, 297.
Qureish, a tribe, 66.
Qusum, 23.
Radhhain, a village, 224–6.
Radhua, oasis of, 293.
Rahbe, 260.
Rahiya, 77.
Rahm, 215, 253.
Rakhiya, 79, 187.
Ramadhan, the fast of, 18, 32, 35, 38, 47, 53.
Rapunzel, Fatima’s daughter, 150.
Ras Burum, 5, 312.
Ras Kelb, 5.
Rathjens, Carl, 214n. M. M., 117.
Ra’un, 236.
Redet ed-Deyyin, 82, 194.
Reilly, Sir Bernard, 198.
Rihib, 215.
Rishi, a dance, 152, 161.
Roghà, 22.
Rotl, a crater, 303.
Royal Asiatic Society, Journal of, 192n, 234n, 250n.
Royal Geographical Society, Journal of, vi, 207n.
Rukheime of the Hills, a bird, 255.
Rupee, camel-driver, 302, 308–10.
Ruweidat, a village, 187.
Ryckmans, Professor G., 192n, 234n, 249n.
Sa’d, the donkey man, 31, 195–6, 198.
Safina, a dance, 161.
Saiban, 237.
Said, 35.
the peasant, 190–1.
Saiq, 247, 250.
Salih, the Badiyan, 242, 246, 253, 255, 257, 261, 263.
Child of Musin, 142–3.
Salim, a child, 73, 78, 83–5, 89, 96, 122, 124, 126, 129, 208.
Samana ibn adh-Dhubian, King, 305.
Samu’a, a pool, 195, 199, 214.
Sanahiye, ruins of, 25.
Sarawa, 215.
Saudi Arabia, 270.
Se’ar tribe, 31, 85, 99, 112, 121–2, 124–5, 128, 146, 167, 270.
Seihut, 82.
Seiyun, 24, 26–8, 47, 63, 90, 104, 109, 112, 121–2, 133, 135, 164, 176, 193. 198.
Shabwa, 65, 188, 265, 282.
Sharh al-’Abid, Dance of the Slaves, 161.
Sharh Dhaheri, a dance, 162.
of Sur in Oman, a war dance, 162.
Saibani, a comical dance, 163.
Shi’b Jereb, 246.
Shibam, 28, 30, 97, 102, 107, 121, 142, 163.
Shi’be, a town, 222–4.
Shihr, 13, 166.
Shujjeira, 194.
Shuqra, 4, 292, 313–4.
Sif, 39, 40.
Sirat al Murawakkiliya, manuscript, 97
Sm, 24.
Stark, Miss Freya, Aden, to Mukalla by air, 3–6;
studies in Mukalla, 6–11;
journey to Tarim, 12–20;
visits ruins in district, 21–8;
arrives at Shibam, 30;
its industries, 40;
an evening concert, 45–7;
theft of rings, 49–50;
feast of Zina, 53–7, 157–64;
a pilgrimage, 58–62;
embarks for Mukalla, 63;
journey to Hureidha, 64–6;
ruins at, 68–75, 116–20;
M.S.S., 82, 88, 96, 104, 113, 170;
flowers and grasses, 123–4, 262;
excavations, 116–26, 134, 184, 192;
feast for the workmen, 129–30;
feast of the pilgrimage, 145, 150–6;
ancient tombs, 148, 188, 199, 234;
the beauty speciahst, 150–2;
fossil plants, 169–70, 190–91, 194;
visits the temple of the Modngod, 178–80;
the Council of Elders, 185–6
by camel to the sea, 207;
stop at Zahir, 212–3;
attack of fever, 221–2;
coffee at Shi’be, 224;
on donkey through Deyyin, 226–40;
village life, Shuruj, 242–4;
drawings in Wadi Rahbe and Ghiutek, 247, 249;
ride to Mesfala, 252–60;
arrival at Azzan, 267;
the ruins of Naqb, 273–5;
expedition to the Kadur hills, 277–8;
journey to Bal Hall 288–300;
inscriptions at Mawiya, 305–6;
by dhow to Aden, 312–6,
Stein, Sir Aurel, 188.
Sufra, 241.
Sne, 22.
Sur, in Oman, 315.
Surba, 263–4.
Suwaidat, tower of, 235.
Takbir, the declaration, 155–6.
Tamimi, tribe of, 23–4, 46.
Taraf, the, 148.
Tarim, a holy city, 9, 13, 16, 19, 21–2, 39, 53, 63, 102, 146, 182, 245.
Urr, ruins of, 24.
Wd, the, 200, 266, 273.
Wadi al’ Ain, 162, 171.
Wadi ’Amd, 76, 99, 159, 171, 176, 186, 188, 208, 210–25, 227, 234, 243, 245.
Wadi Du’an, 219
Wadi Habban, 282.
Wadi Hajr, 200–1, 207, 211, 219, 233, 236, 238, 243, 246, 250, 261, 304.
Wadi Hebda, 213.
Wadi Irma, 304.
Wadi Jardan, 265, 282.
Wadi Kasr, 65.
Wadi Kebir, 213.
Wadi Khun, 22.
Wadi Meifa’a, 4, 261–2, 265–7, 270, 273–4, 283, 289–90, 292–4, 306.
Wadi Masila, 171.
Wadi Mina, 154.
Wadi Minter, 236.
Wadi Mishta, 22.
Wadi Mlah, 230.
Wadi Muhit, 262.
Wadi Nissum, 176, 195.
Wadi Rahbe, 247, 249.
Wadi Rakhiya, 186.
Wadi Rukheime, 187, 210, 219.
Wadi Salmn, 264.
Wadi Shi’b al-Gin, 245.
Wadi Sobale, 224, 228, 230, 235.
Wadi Tabra, 211.
Wadi Zerub, 229.
Wajr, 222.
Wakefield of Hythe, Viscount, vi.
Wa’l, the Peak of the Ibex, 254.
Wellsted, Lieut., 275.
Wissmann, von, 117, 207, 214n.
Wolf, sons of the, 269, 271.
Wrede, von, 302, 304.
Yafe’i, 5, 42, 162.
Yeb’eth, 235–6, 238, 241–4, 254, 256, 262.
Yemen, 73, 83, 97, 106, 116–7, 120, 163, 167, 188, 270.
Yeshbum, 265.
Zahir, 213, 217.
Zahra, adopted baby, 8.
Zanzibar, Sultan of, 312.
Zarub, 229, 233.
Zina, feast of, 53, 157–9
ALEXANDER’S PATH by Freya Stark
978–0-87951–340-5 • $13.95 • PAPERBACK
“Freya Stark has rightfully earned a place among the
greatest travel writers of the 20th century.”
—Sunday Telegraph
WILFRED THESIGER by Alexander Maitland
978–1-59020–163-3 • $35.00 • HARDCOVER
“This book is a worthy testament to an exceptional life …
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—Independent on Sunday
PUBLISHED JULY 2011
1 The Hadhramaut sayyids are descended from Ahmed bin ’Isa al Muhajir who came from Basra in the tenth century. They form a religious caste.
&n
bsp; 1 Slaves are, of course, no longer imported into the country, but a certain number still remain, gradually disappearing.
1 Jl—waterless steppe plateau.
1 Ba Obaid is M. A. Besse’s agent whose services were kindly lent us.
1 Qasida roughly corresponds to our Ode.
1 Seil is the spring flood.
1 The history of the Maria Theresa dollar in Arabia and Abyssinia is of some interest. How it first came to be adopted there is not known. It was minted in a variety of places, including Belgium, until Austria came to have a practical monopoly. In 1933 Italy (already preparing for the Abyssinian war) bought the right to mint for L.6,000. In 1936 the British Government denied the existence of a monopoly and the minting of Maria Theresa dollars was undertaken privately by an English banker who had spent many years in Abyssinia; he bought the silver, the Bank of England minted it, and the production continued until a number of competitors came on to the market and the price of these dollars in Aden sank to a level so low as to make the trade in them no longer profitable. This enterprising banker then thought to reintroduce the old half and quarter dollar which had fallen into desuetude during the last hundred years: this currency had not, however, been sold by the Vienna mint, and the Bank of England refused to infringe a monopoly which, though not established by law, had long custom behind it. The introduction of a smaller coinage would be a very great convenience to the traveller in Arabia.
1 Important inscriptions have since been found there by Mr. Stewart Perowne.
1 The inscriptions, however, turned out to be interesting because of their calligraphy and have been published by Professor Ryckmans in Museion, Vol. 52, parts 3 and 4 and in the Journal of the R. Asiatic Society for July, 1939.
1 More geographic detail of this journey will be found in the Royal Geographical Society’s Journal, January 1939.
1 Vorishmische Altertümer (Hamburg University): Band 38. Reihe B. Völkerkunde: Band 19 (Hamburg 1932). Carl Rathjens und H. von Wissmann, pp. 145 ff.
1 Guest reception-room.
1 For this and all other antiquities visited on this journey see my article in Royal Asiatic Society’s Journal, July 1939. Professor G. Ryckmans, of Louvain, gives texts and notes on the inscriptions in the December (1939) number of Museion, Vol. 52 parts 3 and 4.
1 Periplus of the Erythraean Sea: ed. Schoff, 1912, p. 270 ff. The people of Punt in the Bahri scuplture have their hair tied in a top-knot exactly like the Beni Nu’man.
1 For details of all these see my article in the Royal Asiatic Journal for July, 1939, and Professor Ryckmans’s Museion, December, 1939. Vol. 52, parts 3 and 4.
1 These have kindly been described by Mr.’J. Walker in Museion, LII
1 The tragic murder of three R.A.F. men who, unable to speak Arabic, were forced to land a little to the west of Meifa’a in November 1939, has since come to prove the difficulties of intercourse with these tribes.
1 Professor Pike, who came down by this way a few weeks later, had an alarm among the sand-dunes and found the beduin well able to deal with marauders if they came.
1 This is Bana, now (in 1939) visited by Harold Ingrams who followed and found many traces of one of the main incense routes from Bir Ali by Hajr—Wadi Irma—to Shabwa. He came upon a large causeway and ruins, and is I hope publishing an account of this journey.