CHAPTER 5 : GOING IT ALONE
Family Archives of Simon Wheaton-Smith; Chicago Public Library; Author interview with Nancy F. Koehn, Harvard Business School; Grace Lovat Fraser, In the Days of My Youth; Thomas Yanul, “The Untold Story of Schlesinger & Mayer,” retrieved from the Internet; Encyclopedia of Chicago, entry on Carson, Pirie, Scott, & Co.; Nancy F. Koehn, Brand New; Reginald Pound, Selfridge; Selfridges Archive; Lloyd Wendt & Herman Kogan, Give the Lady What She Wants; Perry R. Duis, Challenging Chicago; Saturday Evening Post, Chicago, March 1935; Emmett Dedmon, Fabulous Chicago; (on gold mine) Family Archives of Simon Wheaton-Smith; Selfridges Archive.
CHAPTER 6 : BUILDING THE DREAM
Selfridges Archive; Notes from Eric Dunstan, Selfridges Archive; (on Charles Yerkes) “A Brush with History,” National Portrait Gallery; John T. Slania, “Loop Dreams,” retrieved from the Internet; “Receiver Named for Yerkes Estate,” New York Times, April 7, 1909; Peter Watts, “London’s Underground History,” Time Out, April 7, 2007; “Mrs. Harry G. Selfridge,” Chicago Daily News, June 8, 1907; Emmett Dedmon, Fabulous Chicago; Reginald Pound, Selfridge; Gordon Honeycombe, Selfridges; (on Foots Cray House) The Great Estates: Six Country Houses in the London Borough of Bexley (Bexley Council, 2000), p. 52; J. B. Priestley, The Edwardians; Article on James Gilbert White, Cornell Alumni News, retrieved from the Internet; Selfridges Archive; J. B. Priestley, The Edwardians; (on Kreuger & Toll) Notes in Selfridges Archive; Letters from Waring & White to H. G. Selfridge, Selfridges Archive; Susan Mary Alsop, Lady Sackville; Kate Jackson, George Newnes and the New Journalism in Britain; Simon Jenkins, Newspapers: The Power and the Money; (on the store’s opening) Selfridges Archive; The Library and Museum of Freemasonry, London (correspondence with Emily Greenstreet).
CHAPTER 7 : TAKEOFF
Selfridges Archive; Reginald Pound, Selfridge; Author conversation with Oliver Musker; John K. Winkler, Five & Ten; Grace Lovat Fraser, In the Days of My Youth; (on Violette) Notes from Eric Dunstan, Selfridges Archive; J. B. Priestley, The Edwardians; Elizabeth Ewing, The History of 20th Century Fashion; W. Somerset Maugham, Of Human Bondage; Alison Adburgham, Shops and Shopping; (on Bertha Palmer and Anna Pavlova) Museum of London; Judith R. Walkowitz, “Cosmopolitanism and Erotic Dancing in Central London 1908–18,” American Historical Review, Vol. 108, No. 2, April 2003; (on Blériot) Reginald Pound, Selfridge; Notes from Gordon Selfridge Jr., Selfridges Archive; Gordon Honeycombe, Selfridges; The Globe, 26 July 1909; www.bleriot.org.
CHAPTER 8 : LIGHTING UP THE NIGHT
Project on “The City,” Harvard Design School Guide to Shopping; J. B. Priestley, The Edwardians; (on Pavlova), Staff notes, Selfridges Archive; Letters between Sir Edward Holden and H. G. Selfridge, Selfridges Archive; Reginald Pound, Selfridge; Lindy Woodhead, War Paint; W. J. MacQueen-Pope, Gaiety; International Perfume Museum, Grasse; Eugene Rimmel, Evanion Catalogue, British Library; The Letters of Ralph Blumenfeld, House of Lords Library; Letters between Ralph Blumenfeld and H. G. Selfridge, Selfridges Archive; Meredith Etherington-Smith & Jeremy Pilcher, The “It” Girls; Richard Fisher, Syrie Maugham; Gerald McKnight, The Scandal of Syrie Maugham; Notes from Eric Dunstan, Selfridges Archive; Selfridges Archive; (on Sir Oliver Lodge) Staff notes, Selfridges Archive; Daughters of the American Revolution, Washington D.C.; A. H. Williams, No Name at the Door; Selfridges Archive; J. B. Priestley, The Edwardians.
CHAPTER 9 : WAR WORK, WAR PLAY
Reginald Pound, Selfridge; Elizabeth Ewing, The History of 20th Century Fashion; Selfridges Archive; A. H. Williams, No Name at the Door; Jeffrey Meyers, Somerset Maugham; The Letters of Ralph Blumenfeld, House of Lords Library; University of Chicago Library and Selfridges Archive; Family Archives of Simon Wheaton-Smith; Gordon Honeycombe, Selfridges; James Gardiner, Gaby Deslys; Cecil Beaton, The Glass of Fashion; Irene Castle, Castles in the Air; Elisabeth Marbury, My Crystal Ball; Selfridges Archive; Reginald Pound, Selfridge; Susan Mary Alsop, Lady Sackville; The Woolworths Virtual Museum; John K. Winkler, Five & Ten; Denis Mackail, The Story of J.M.B.; Letters of Arnold Bennett, Vol. II, 1889–1915; W. Somerset Maugham, Plays: One, introduction by Anthony Curtis; Barbara Cartland, We Danced All Night; Selfridges Archive.
CHAPTER 10 : CASTLES IN THE AIR
Selfridges Archive; Condé Nast Library; (on Highcliffe) Background information provided by Ian Stevenson; “Highcliffe Castle, Hampshire,” Country Life, May 1, 1942; Edward H. Short and Arthur C. Rickett, Ring Up the Curtain, p. 274; Correspondence between Dr. E. Dillon and H. G. Selfridge, Selfridges Archive; Papers of Dr. Joseph Emile Dillon, Stamford University Library; (on Serge de Bolotoff) Family Archives of Simon Wheaton-Smith; Selfridges Archive; New York Herald (Paris), May 20, 1906; Legendary Aviators and Aircraft of World War One; Author correspondence with Mr. T. F. Boettger; E. Charles Vivian, A History of Aeronautics, retrieved from the Internet (further information provided by Brian Riddle, Royal Aeronautical Society); (on the Hope Sale) Department of Manuscripts and Special Collections, Nottingham University, and information provided by Ian Jenkins, Curator of Greek and Roman Antiquities, British Museum; also Geoffrey B. Waywell, The Lover and Hope Sculptures, and Jonathan Scott, The Pleasures of Antiquity; Harry Gordon Selfridge, The Romance of Commerce; The Letters of Ralph Blumenfeld, House of Lords Library; Selfridges Archive; John Lane Papers, Harry Ransom Humanities Research Center, University of Texas, Austin; Family Archives of Simon Wheaton-Smith; Reginald Pound, Selfridge; Documents (including Barton Breezes) provided by Ian Stevenson; Bournemouth Daily Echo, May 16, 1918.
CHAPTER 11 : VICES AND VIRTUES
Alan Jenkins, The Twenties; Kate “Ma” Meyrick, Secrets of the “43”; Ronald Blythe, The Age of Illusion; Condé Nast Library; Stella Margetson, The Long Party; Notes from Gordon Selfridge Jr., Selfridges Archive; A. H. Williams, No Name at the Door; Elizabeth Ewing, The History of 20th Century Fashion; Selfridges Archive; Reginald Pound, Selfridge; Condé Nast Library; Stella Margetson, The Long Party; Barbara Cartland, We Danced All Night; Andrew Barrow, Gossip; Information provided by Ian Jenkins, Curator of Greek and Roman Antiquities, British Museum; Selfridges Archive; Daily Express, May 31, 1920; Reginald Pound, Selfridge; Ralph Blumenfeld, Diaries; Philip Tilden, True Remembrances; Bournemouth Daily Echo, May 25, 1920; Information provided by Ian Stevenson; Violette de Sibour, Flying Gypsies; Staff notes, Selfridges Archive; Correspondence of H. G. Selfridge, HAT; Arnold Bennett, Journals, Vol. II, p. 159; Trinity College Library, Cambridge University; Reginald Pound, Selfridge; Charles Savoie, “The Mysterious, Super-élite Pilgrim Society,” May 2005, retrieved from the Internet; Anne Pimlott Baker, The Pilgrims of Great Britain; Notes from Eric Dunstan, Selfridges Archive; James Gardiner, Gaby Deslys; Norman Hartnell, Silver and Gold; Joan Kahr, Edgar Brandt; Mary Blume, Côte d’Azur; Charles Graves, None But the Rich; Kate “Ma” Meyrick, Secrets of the ‘43’; Selfridges Archive; Family Archives of Simon Wheaton-Smith; Notes from Eric Dunstan, Selfridges Archive.
CHAPTER 12 : MAKING WAVES
Alan Jenkins, The Twenties; Ronald Blythe, The Age of Illusion; Staff notes, Selfridges Archive; Information provided by Ian Stevenson; Information provided by Merton Council; Kelly’s Directory, 1925; Bournemouth Daily Echo, February 26, 1924; Time Magazine, September 23, 1929; Selfridges Archive; Reginald Pound, Selfridge; Family Archives of Simon Wheaton-Smith; A. H. Williams, No Name at the Door; Ronald Blythe, The Age of Illusion; Reginald Pound, Selfridge; Kate “Ma” Meyrick, Secrets of the ‘43’; Gary Chapman, The Delectable Dollies; The Picturegoer, April 1921, courtesy of Exeter University; Elsa Maxwell, I Married the World; Janet Aitken Kidd, The Beaverbrook Girl; Mary Blume, Côte d’Azur; “Inventing the French Riviera: The Early Days of Radio Normandy,” www.ibcstudio.co.uk; The Diaries of Ralph Blumenfeld; Gordon Honeycombe, Selfridges.
CHAPTER 13 : TOUT VA
Selfridges Archive; Staff notes, Selfridges Archive; Letter from Elizabeth Arden to Teddy Haslam, April 1926; Reginald Pound, Selfridge; Family Archives of Simon Wheaton-Smith; (on Suzanne Lenglen) www.tennisfame.org; Mar
y Blume, Côte d’Azur; Harry Yoxall, A Fashion of Life; Caroline Seebohm, The Man Who Was Vogue; Condé Nast Library; Gordon Honeycombe, Selfridges; Cecil Beaton (ed.), Self-Portrait with Friends: The Selected Diaries of Cecil Beaton, 1926–1974; “The Riviera Season,” Vogue, February 22, 1928, illustrations by Cecil Beaton; Charles Graves, None but the Rich; Axel Madsen, Coco Chanel; Gary Chapman, The Delectable Dollies; Alan Jenkins, The Rich Rich; Time Magazine, April 11 and 25, 1927; Maurice Corina, Fine Silks and Oak Counters; Selfridges Archive; Ronald Blythe, The Age of Illusion; Stella Margetson, The Long Party; Andrew Barrow, Gossip; Selfridges Archive; Elsa Maxwell, I Married the World; Gloria Vanderbilt & Lady Thelma Furness, Double Exposure; (on gaming) Author interview with Professor Gerda Reith; (on Maude Loti) International Herald Tribune, 1925; Charles Graves, None but the Rich; Gary Chapman, The Delectable Dollies; Mistinguett, Mistinguett by Mistinguett; A. H. Williams, No Name at the Door; Reginald Pound, Selfridge; Kate “Ma” Meyrick, Secrets of the ‘43’; “The Season at Le Touquet,” Vogue, illustrations by Cecil Beaton; Staff notes, Selfridges Archive; Time Magazine, August 1, 1927; Gordon Honeycombe, Selfridges.
CHAPTER 14 : FLIGHTS OF FANCY
Philip Tilden, True Remembrances; Letter to Mr. Skinner, Selfridges Archive; Reginald Pound, Selfridge; A. H. Williams, No Name at the Door; Memoirs of the Rt. Hon. The Earl of Woolton; Staff notes, Selfridges Archive; Charles Graves, None but the Rich; Gary Chapman, The Delectable Dollies; Roy Moseley & Victor Saville, Evergreen; Ronald Blythe, The Age of Illusion; Stella Margetson, The Long Party; Alan Jenkins, The Twenties; Selfridges Archive; Time Magazine, March 12, 1928; Arnold Bennett, Letters to His Nephew, p. 268; Business Magazine, January 1930; Time Magazine, March 24, 1930; Gordon Honeycombe, Selfridges; Time Magazine, September 24, 1928; Violette de Sibour, Flying Gypsies; Author correspondence with Mary Gardener; The Scotsman, November 5, 1930; “Callisthenes,” “An Aeroplane Which We Sold,” The Times, November 29, 1930; Gary Chapman, The Delectable Dollies; “Gloria’s Memoirs,” News of the World, May 31, 1932; Time Magazine, July 21, 1930; (on Ivar Kreuger) Dale L. Flesher, National Forum, Autumn 1997, retrieved from the Internet; Letter from H. G. Selfridge to Ralph Blumenfeld, Archives; Time Magazine, August 25, 1930; Reginald Pound, Arnold Bennett; Daphne Thynne, The Duchess of Jermyn Street; Selfridges Archive; Milwaukee Journal, September 7, 1932; Time Magazine, March 14, 1932 and July 17, 1933; Selfridges Archive.
CHAPTER 15 : OVER AND OUT
Milwaukee Journal, October 1935; Daily Tribune Chicago, October 22, 1935 (cuttings provided by the Wisconsin History Society); Time Magazine, November 4, 1935; A. H. Williams, No Name at the Door; Election Party Guest Lists, Selfridges Archive; (on Sybil Thorndike) A. H. Williams, No Name at the Door; Condé Nast Library; Underwear advertising, Selfridges Archive; The Passing Show, September 28, 1935; Gordon Honeycombe, Selfridges; Reginald Pound, Selfridge; (on Wallis Simpson) Ronald Blythe, The Age of Illusion; (on the sale of the SS Conqueror) National Maritime Museum & correspondence, Selfridges Archive; Staff notes, Selfridges Archive; (on Gordon Jr.’s flight to Spain) Time Magazine, August 17, 1936; H. G. Selfridge letters to Ralph Blumenfeld, Archive; (on Father Christmas) Business & Finance Magazine, December 20, 1936; (on “Callisthenes” in USA) Time Magazine, October 18, 1937; Coronation Décor Catalogue, Selfridges Archive; H. G. Selfridge letters to Ralph Blumenfeld, Archive; Reginald Pound, Selfridge; (on gambling) A. H. Williams, No Name at the Door; “Television Is Here: You Can’t Shut Your Eyes to It,” Selfridges Archive; (on Holmes) Gordon Honeycombe, Selfridges; Staff notes, Selfridges Archive; (on Gordon Jr.) Reginald Pound, Selfridge; Staff notes, Selfridges Archive; (on war stocks) Notes from Nellie Elt, Selfridges Archive; Letters from board of directors, Selfridges Archive; (on sailing to America) Time Magazine, November 13, 1939; (on post-retirement luncheon) Store, February 1940; (on restructuring the business) Time Magazine, February 3, 1941; (on life in retirement) Family Archives of Simon Wheaton-Smith; Notes from Mr. Robertson, Selfridges Archive; Sotheby & Co. catalogue, August 11, 1941 (“sale of valuable French and English Books, Property of a Gentleman,” under which he had written H. Gordon Selfridge) provided by Maggs Bros.; Information on “Sigsaly,” Selfridges Archive; Obituary, The Times, May 9, 1947; (on funeral) Bournemouth Echo, May 13, 1947; Last Will & Testament of H. G. Selfridge.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
All books were published in London unless otherwise stated.
Adburgham, Alison, Liberty’s: A Biography of a Shop (Allen & Unwin, 1975)
—— Shops and Shopping, 1880–1914 (Allen & Unwin, 1964)
—— Victorian Shopping (David & Charles, Newton Abbot, 1972)
Allan, Tony, Americans in Paris (Bison Books, Chicago, 1977)
Alsop, Susan Mary, Lady Sackville: A Biography (Weidenfeld & Nicolson, 1978)
Appel, Joseph, The Business Biography of John Wanamaker (Macmillan, New York, 1930)
Arlen, Michael, The Green Hat (Collins, 1924)
Artley, Alexandra (ed.), The Golden Age of Shop Design, 1850–1939 (Whitney Library of Design, New York, 1976)
Baker, Anne Pimlott, The Pilgrims of Great Britain: A Centennial History (Profile Books, 2002)
Banner, Lois W., American Beauty (University of Chicago Press, Chicago, 1983)
Barrow, Andrew, Gossip (Pan, 1978)
Beaton, Cecil, The Glass of Fashion (Weidenfeld & Nicolson, 1954)
—— Self-Portrait with Friends: The Selected Diaries of Cecil Beaton, 1926–74, ed. Richard Buckle (Weidenfeld & Nicolson, 1979)
Benjamin, Thelma, London Shops and Shopping (H. Joseph, 1934)
Bennett, Arnold, Journals (Stratford Press, 1933), Vols. II and III, 1922–8
—— Letters of Arnold Bennett, Vol. II, 1889–1915, ed. James Hepburn (Oxford University Press, Oxford, 1968)
—— Letters to His Nephew, ed. Richard Bennett (William Heinemann, 1935)
Bennett, Richard, A Picture of the Twenties (Vista Books, 1971)
Black, Jean F., Hyde Park Houses: An Informal History, 1856–1910 (University of Chicago Press, Chicago, 1978)
Blume, Mary, Côte d’Azur: Inventing the French Riviera (Thames & Hudson, 1992)
Blumenfeld, R. D., Diaries, 1887–1914 (Heinemann, 1930)
Blythe, Ronald, The Age of Illusion: England in the Twenties and Thirties (Hamish Hamilton, 1963)
Bowlby, Rachel, Just Looking: Consumer Culture in Dreiser, Gissing and Zola (Methuen, 1985)
Bret, David, The Mistinguett Legend (St Martin’s Press, New York, 1990)
—— Tallulah Bankhead: A Scandalous Life (Robson Books, New York, 1997)
Browne, J. Crawford, The Early Days of the Department Store (Scribner’s, New York, 1921)
Buel, James William, The Magic City (Arno Press, New York, reprinted 1974)
Burg, David F., Chicago’s White City of 1893 (University Press of Kentucky, Lexington, 1976)
Burke, John, Duet in Diamonds: The Flamboyant Saga of Lillian Russell and Diamond Jim Brady in America’s Gilded Age (Putnam, New York, 1972)
Calder, Robert, Willie: The Life of Maugham (Heinemann, 1989)
Callery, Sean, Harrods: The Story of Society’s Favourite Store (Ebury Press, 1991)
Cantor, Eddie, and David Freedman, Ziegfeld: The Great Glorifier (Alfred H. King, New York, 1934)
Carter, Ernestine, 20th Century Fashion: A Scrapbook, 1910 to Today (Eyre Methuen, 1975)
Cartland, Barbara, We Danced All Night (Hutchinson, 1970)
Castle, Irene, Castles in the Air (Da Capo Press, 1958)
Chalmers, W. S., The Life of Beatty (Hodder & Stoughton, 1951)
Chapman, Gary, The Delectable Dollies (Sutton, 2006)
Chase, Edna Woolman, Always in Vogue (Victor Gollancz, 1954)
Collas, Phillippe, and Eric Villedary, Edith Wharton’s French Riviera (Flammarion, Paris, 2002)
Cooper, Lady Diana, The Rainbow Comes and Goes (Riverside Press, Cambridge, 1958)
Corina, Maurice, Fine Silks and Oak Counters: Debenhams (Hutchinson, 1978)
Cruikshank, R. J., Roaring Century (Hamish Hamilton, 1946)
Curtis, Anthony, Somerset Maugham (Weidenfeld & Nicolson, 1977)
Dale, Tim, Harrods: The Store and the Legend (Pan, 1981)
Davis, Dorothy, A History of Shopping (RKP, London & Toronto, 1966)
Dedmon, Emmett, Fabulous Chicago (Random House, New York, 1953)
Ditchett, S. H., Marshall Field & Company: The Life Story of a Great Concern (Scribner’s, New York, 1922)
Duis, Perry R., “Challenging Chicago”: Coping with Everyday Life, 1837–1920 (University of Illinois Press, Urbana, 1998)
Elias, Stephen, Alexander T. Stewart: The Forgotten Merchant Prince (Praeger, Westport, Conn., 1992)
Etherington Smith, Meredith, and Jeremy Pilcher, The “It” Girls (Harcourt, Brace, Jovanovich, San Diego, 1986)
Ewing, Elizabeth, The History of 20th Century Fashion (Batsford, 1974)
—— Dress and Undress: A History of Women’s Underwear (Batsford, 1978)
Ferry, John, A History of the Department Store (Macmillan, 1960)
Fisher, Richard, Syrie Maugham (Duckworth, 1978)
Fraser, Grace Lovat, In the Days of My Youth (Cassell, 1970)
Gallati, Mario, Mario of the Caprice (Hutchinson, 1960)
Gardiner, James, Gaby Deslys (Sidgwick & Jackson, 1986)
Garland, Madge, A History of Fashion (Orbis, 1970)
Goldring, D., The Nineteen Twenties (Weidenfeld & Nicolson, 1945)
Graham, J. A. Maxtone, Eccentric Gamblers (Mowbrays, 1975)
Shopping, Seduction & Mr. Selfridge Page 31