Double Rolling
This term I use to refer to an edge that is folded over once, then once again, so that the raw edge is tucked inside the seam. Usually this is used to form a drawcord casing. When double rolling to form a casing, stitch close to the edge folded under. This procedure will use up about one to one and a half inches of fabric.
Basting
This means sewing a preliminary seam with large stitches, a very useful procedure that allows you to see if the project is sized correctly. If something is incorrect, large stitches are easier to remove with a seam ripper.
Basting can also be used to hold many pieces together. If you have several layers like a beak, door and screen that must all be sewn on to a canopy, first baste the beak, door and screen together, all facing upwards. Then, add it as one piece to the canopy. When basting, stay within ½ inch of the edge, which is within the normal ¾-1 inch seam allowance. This way, your basting stitches will not show when the project is complete. When the project is turned right side out, all seams allowances will be on the inside. When the basting is done, and checked for mistakes, you can sew the pieces on together with smaller stitches.
The Right Side, sometimes referred to as the outside, is the side that will be visible when done. The Wrong Side, or the inside of the project, is the side which will not be seen. Mark on the wrong side. When right sides are placed together, touching each other, the seams will be sewn on the wrong side. Then the project is turned right side out, and no seam allowances will be seen.
Backstitching
Reverse stitching to secure the ends of seams is like tying a knot. Backstitch periodically on large projects and seams that are under stress for reinforcement. If a portion of the thread gets broken, the whole seam will not come undone, and the stitches will stop coming lose where it has been backstitched.
The Fabric Content
This refers to the type of thread used in fabric. For backpacking gear, man-made threads like rayon, polyester, nylon, and spandex are preferred, being less likely to rot or shrink. Fabrics with little or no cotton content will dry quicker and hold less water. Sometimes percentages are listed, as in a 50% cotton/polyester blend.
Some General Sewing Tips
Always cut out the large pieces first. Allow an extra inch for seam allowances on all silnylon projects. Fleece and no- see-um netting will need only one-half inch seam allowances. From your scraps, you will be able to cut out the smaller pieces, stuff sacks, stake bags and fabric loops.
Always be sure you are working on the correct side. Usually, right sides should be touching when sewing seams, so that the seam allowances are on the wrong, or inside of a project. Before cutting or trimming anything, remember the old adage "you can always trim away more, but it's hard to add it back on."
Siliconzied rip-stop nylon can be quite slippery to handle, but following a few simple suggestions should make it a little easier. When handling bigger sections, place all the material in your lap. Match seams and feed through the sewing machine. Do not let the sewn sections fall onto the floor in the process. The weight will cause the fabric to slide away from you. In order to keep it in your control, have a table or desk to rest the finishing sections while you are in the process of sewing these long lengths. A mesh-silnylon interface is extremely slippery. Remember to concentrate on matching the edges, and feeding the narrowest section through the machine. The bulk of any project should be on your left, and not under the sewing machine itself.
When using safety pins, try to stay in the seam allowance. This will eliminate any holes in the actual project. Always read through every section before beginning that step in the gear-making process. Try to visualize, even set up the components. If applicable, check to make sure you have the left side and the right side of the item. Especially with tents, make sure the inside and outside are correct. It is much easier to double-check than rip out stitches, and it saves on the amount of seam/hole sealing you will need to do later.
No-see-um netting has a stretching factor both in width and length. If it is cut across the grain, at an angle, otherwise referred to as the bias, stretching or warping of shape will occur. Be careful when adding this fabric to a tarp or shelter. If it is stretched tight, it will cause binding of non-stretching seams. For this reason, always set up your shelter before adding final touches.
And the last tip; a very important lesson learned the hard way, if you are tired, stop. Give yourself a break.
Ditty Bags
A ditty bag makes a great first project. Make these ditty bags using scraps of silnylon, rip-stop nylon, or even no-see-em netting. All the sewing directions are the same.
Supplies:
Silnylon, rip-stop nylon, no-see-um netting
1/8-1/4-diameter cordage (100% nylon, acrylic, or polyester)
Cord lock
Determine the size bag you will need and add 1 1/2 inch to these measurements for the top, bottom and sides for seam allowances. Lay out the fabric. Cut out the rectangular shape, at least 5 inches wide by 10 inches long. Heat-seal edges, if necessary, by lighting a candle and passing the edge of the fabric within 1/2 inch of the flame. Hold the fabric firmly, and take care not to scorch.
Hem the top edge, at the same time creating the cord-casing by folding 1 inch of fabric over, then turning 1/4 inch under and stitching close to the edge of the fold. This will be referred to as double rolling the fabric.
Fold in half, with right sides together and the casing at the top. Stitch the side and bottom beginning just below the casing, turning the corner and going along the bottom, also. Always backstitch at beginning and end of seams. I also backstitch when I turn the bottom edge corner to add strength to the seams. Do a second row of stitching, if desired, 1/8 inch from the first row.
Turn right side out. Using the cord threader described above, draw the cord through the casing. Put on the cord lock. Tie a double knot at end of cord, heat seal.
Fabric Strips
Make these strong and useful strips out of the scraps of silnylon, rip-stop nylon, or pack cloth fabric you are working with. They can be used for loops in almost any piece of gear. Cut fabric strips 3.5 inch wide. Fold each edge towards the center, lengthwise, and then fold that in half, so that the strip is 4 thicknesses. Stitch close to both long edges. Cut into lengths as needed.
Stuff Sacks
You will need:
rip-stop nylon, pack cloth or silnylon
6 inches of web strapping or fabric strip, for pull loop
1/8-1/4 inch diameter cordage
cord lock
Decide how large you want your stuff bag, then add 3 inches to the length and 2 inches to the width for seam allowances and draw cord casing. For instance, if you want a 9 x 12 stuff sack, cut a rectangle that is 20 inches wide by 15 inches long. If you would like a collar on this sack, cut a semi circle with a 6-inch radius. If you will be using these stuff sacks for the packless system, described in Chapter 3, make each stuff sack 5 inches longer than the width of your pack.
Lay out fabric, cut and heat-seal the rectangle and collar by passing edge of fabric 1/2 inch from a candle flame. Take care not to burn or scorch. Heat-seal your hold-loop while you're at it.
Form draw cord casing by hemming the top of the rectangle, folding over the top edge, or double rolling it, and stitching close to the folded edge. If you would like a collar, tuck it under this casing as you sew.
Fold in half the long way, with right sides of rectangle facing each other and casing and collar facing outwards, at the top. Pin the hold loop at the bottom of the sack, so that the loop is going up into the right side of the sack, and the ends of it are sticking out into the seam allowance. You should not be able to see this loop if it is in the right place. If this stuff sack is to be used for the packless system, while sewing the side seam, add two fabric loops in the same manner as the bottom loop, so that this bag can be cinched on to the frame horizontally.
Start stitching just below the casing, using a ¾ inch seam. Sew sid
e and bottom, backstitching at the beginning, and end of your seams. To reinforce seam, either do a second seam 1/8 inch away from the first, or better still, roll the seam allowance and stitch it down.
With your stuff sack still inside out, form the squared off bottom by matching the bottom seam with side seam, and stitching across the imaginary line to form a triangle. You are actually spreading the bottom of the bag out, and sewing little triangles into each end of the bottom seam. Do both sides the same way.
Turn right side out. Using the cord threader described above, draw the cord through the casing. Put on the cord lock. Tie a double knot at end of cord, heat seal.
Sleep Net
When the bug situation gets really challenging, use a sleep net during the day on your upper body when you stop for breaks. It can also be worn sitting in camp while you are cooking, eating, and writing in your journal. When you wear it while sitting, this size sleep net will provide almost total body protection from flying insects.
When used in shelters and high traffic camping areas, a sleep net can keep mice out of your sleeping bag and hair. The hanging loop on the front can be used to suspend the net above you, keeping it away from your face.
Supplies:
2 1/2 yards no-see-um-netting
Cord lock, 3 yards cordage
Fabric strip 6 inches long
Cut a piece of no see-um-netting 82 inches long by 47 inches wide. Fold netting in half, so that the side seams will be 41 inches long, and the width will be 47 inches. Sew both side seams. There is no seam across the top. The top is on the fold.
Form squared off corners by matching the top fold line with a side seam, and stitching across the imaginary line to form a triangle. You are actually spreading out the top of the sleep net, and sewing triangles into each end of the top. Do both sides the same way.
Stitch the corners down towards the side seam to form a box-type construction. Then, turn right side out.
Measure 25 inches up from bottom to place a hanging loop on the front of the sleepnet. Sew a loop onto the front side of your sleep net, reinforcing with an x stitch.
Hem the bottom of the sleep net by folding over and sewing a casing, double rolling the fabric just as you would for a stuff sack or ditty bag. Leave a few stitches open to thread cord through. Thread cordage. Add cord lock. This net will weigh about 2-3 ounces.
Pack cover
For a pack with about 4,000 cubic inch capacity, you will need:
50 x 60 inch piece of rip stop nylon, or silnylon
5 feet round elastic cord
Cord lock
Clip
8 inches ¼ inch flat elastic
6-inch fabric strip
This method produces a seamless pack cover. Take the silnylon rectangle; carefully fold into fourths. Trim the corners so they are rounded. Unfold and heat seal all the cut edges of fabric, taking special care not to scorch or burn your fabric. Mark half way down both long sides for the safety elastic clip and fabric loop placements.
Make a casing for the elastic draw cord by double rolling the perimeter edge toward the inside, and stitching close to the edge. This is the same method used for a ditty bag or a stuff sack draw-cord casing, but going around the corners will be more difficult and result in some small tucks.
To facilitate threading cord later, when you sew the casing near the rounded corners, keep a generous, evenly tucked method. Fold the flat elastic in half, inserting the clip, and sew into the casing as you stitch. Backstitch for reinforcement. Add the fabric loop on the opposite side of the pack cover while sewing down the casing. These two loops can be clipped together when high winds threaten to blow the pack cover away. Leave a small opening at top of pack cover where the cord will be inserted.
Insert draw cord using the plastic threader described at the beginning of this section. If you use a safety pin, it may score the fabric, making it prone to tearing. Securely attach the elastic cord to the threader by tying a knot. Draw the cord through the entire casing. This takes patience. You don't want to lose cord while threading it or you will have to start over on this part.
Once the cord is threaded through, add your cord lock to the ends of the cord, and heat seal the ends. Make a good-sized knot to prevent the cord lock from falling off, or even use a small bead at the end before tying the cord.
Single Bag or Liner
Directions are based on fabric that is 60-65 inches wide. You can make sleeping bag liners, outer shells, simple bivy sacks, summer bags or vapor barrier bags, depending on fabric choice.
Supplies:
2-2 1/4 yards of fleece, silk, taffeta, tyvek or silnylon for a vapor barrier bag.
Zipper or Velcro, at least 42 inches long, if wanted
1/4-inch diameter cordage, 6-foot length
Cord lock
Fold fabric lengthwise so that it measures 30 inches wide. Cut to the desired overall length, which includes the top of the hood, and 3 inches extra for hood casing and bottom seam allowance. A regular bag is about 86 inches long.
Cut out the face area from the topside of the bag, a 25-inch wide by 14-inch long rectangle. Trim all corners so they are round. Round the corners at the bottom of the bag.
With right sides together, stitch the bottom and up the side to the beginning of your closure, using a 3/4-inch seam allowance. If you do not want a side opening, stitch all the way up to the top, where the face opening has been cut out. Always backstitch at beginning and ending of seams to lock stitches. Sew another row of stitching if desired. Turn bag right side out.
Form draw cord casing for the hood by folding fabric to the inside all along the top of the bag. Stitch close to the edge, about ¾-inch from the fold. If you are using fleece, do not attempt to roll under the cut edge, simply sew it down flat. All thin fabrics should be rolled and folded under, a double roll, just as you would for the stuff sacks and ditty bags.
Leave an opening in your casing on the opposite side of the bag, away from the closure. Thread the cord through the casing and add the cord lock. If you do not have a side closure, you have hemmed the entire top and are finished. If you want a side seam/closure, tack the cords down at the closure seam, and bring a loop of cordage through the opening at the side of the bag. Add the cord lock there and tie a knot so the cord lock cannot come off. By placing the draw cord this way, you prevent any interference from it when you get in and out of your bag.
If you chose a Velcro closure:
Cut Velcro 42 inches long.
Fold over 3/4-inch fabric to outside of topside of bag. Lay loop side of Velcro over this. Stitch close to all sides of Velcro.
Fold to inside, 3/4 inch of fabric on bottom side of bag, and apply the hook side of Velcro. Matching the first inch of Velcro at bottom of closure, reinforce by sewing an X over the end.
If you chose a zipper:
Beginning just at the bottom of the draw cord casing, fold over 3/4 inch of fabric to inside of bag. Lay zipper teeth facing up; stitch down one side, and up the other, as you would for any zipper application. Have the fabric overlap the zipper teeth. Reinforce zipper by backstitching over beginning, bottom, and ends of zipper.
Double Summer Sleeping Bag / Bag Liner
Directions are based on fabric that is 60-65 inches wide. You can make sleeping bag liners, outer shells, summer bags or vapor barrier bags depending on fabric choice.
Supplies:
14 feet of fleece, taffeta, silk, or silnylon for vapor bags
2 zippers or Velcro, at least 42 inches long for each side
13 feet, 1/8-1/4 inch diameter cordage, cut into a 6 foot length, and a 7 foot length
4 cord locks
Fold fabric end to end, 76 inches from one end, salvages touching, so that it measures 60 wide. The back of the bag will measure 92 inches long. This will form the hood.
Round corners at foot area if desired, and at top of hood. Right sides together, stitch up the sides to the bottom of your closure, using a 3/4-inch seam allowance. Always backstitch at
beginning and ending of seams to lock stitches. Turn bag right side out.
Form front draw cord casing by folding an inch of fabric to the inside and stitching close to the edge, about 3/4 inch from the fold.
Thread cord through, end to end, and anchor midway by stitching crosswise over the middle of the cord. This prevents cord from being inadvertently pulled all the way through by your partner. Add cord locks to each end of cord, tie knot and heat seal cord end.
Make the hood casing by folding the top and side edges of the hood area to the inside. Thread cord, secure in middle with stitching. Add cord locks to each end.
If you chose Velcro:
Cut two loop and two hook sides of Velcro, each 42 inches long. Fold over 3/4-inch fabric to outside of bottom side of bag. Lay loop-side of Velcro over this. Stitch close to all sides of Velcro. Fold 3/4 inch of fabric to the inside on top side of bag, and apply the hook side of Velcro. Matching the first inch of Velcro at bottom of closure, reinforce by sewing an X over the end.
If you chose a zipper:
Beginning just at the bottom of the draw cord casing, fold over 3/4 inch of fabric to inside of bag. Lay zipper teeth facing up; stitch down one side, and up the other, as you would for any zipper application. Have the fabric overlap the zipper teeth. Reinforce zipper by backstitching over beginning, bottom, and ends of zipper
Headgear and Mittens
My Journey to Freedom and Ultralight Backpacking Page 22