by Unknown
7. Arrange the pheasant pieces on the sauerkraut on a preheated dish and garnish with chervil or parsley and tomato segments.
Accompaniment: Potato purée
Tip: Instead of pheasant you can also use partridge.
ADVICE
Fish and seafood
Fish is divided into sea fish and freshwater fish. Sea fish, which as the name implies, live in the sea and include fish such as rosefish, haddock, cod, turbot, brill and halibut, plaice, pollack, sole, tuna fish, salmon, mackerel and herring. After being caught, the fish are chilled on ice (not frozen) and immediately dispatched to the shops. In the case of longer fishing trips the fish are processed on board the fishing boat (for instance, filleted) and deep-frozen.
Freshwater fish live in rivers, streams, lakes and ponds and include eel, pike, rainbow trout, salmon trout, carp, whitefish, zander, tench and catfish. Freshwater fish are often kept live in a small water-tank before being killed to ensure freshness.
Characteristics of freshness
To check that a fish is fresh, make sure that:
1. the eyes are clear and firm with outward-curved lenses.
2. the gills are brilliant red without mucus (lift the gills slightly to see underneath).
3. the skin is very shiny and covered with transparent mucus (this turns blue in the stock when cooking).
4. the scales are firm.
5. the smell is fresh (in the case of sea fish, it smells of seawater or seaweed).
In the case of filleted fish or fish that has been cut up into pieces, it is more difficult to see whether it is fresh. The main criteria of freshness are a fresh smell and smooth, shiny flesh.
Deep-frozen fish is processed and frozen on the fishing boat immediately after being caught so that it is very fresh when it arrives in the shops.
Storage
Fresh fish should be placed immediately on a glass or china dish (perhaps on a saucer turned upside down so that any liquid oozing from the fish can run away), cover with clingfilm and keep refrigerated. The fish should be cooked the same day if possible.
Deep-frozen fish stored at -18 °C/-0.4 °F can be kept for 2–5 months depending on the fat content (respect the bestbefore date). It will defrost at room temperature in just a few hours, after which it must be processed immediately.
Preparation of freshwater fish
Usually freshwater fish is sold ready for cooking, in other words it will have been gutted, the scales partly removed, or filleted.
To remove the scales
1. Hold the tail of the fish firmly with one hand, if necessary using a towel or kitchen paper.
2. Using a flat, broad knife or scaler, scrape off the scales going from the tail towards the head. The scales are less likely to go all over the place Fish and seafood Rosefish Plaice Pollack if you scrape them off under running water.
Removing the skin
Example: sole
1. Make an incision at the tail fin using a sharp knife.
2. Hold the tail fin down with a cloth.
3. Pull the skin steadily in the direction of the head.
4. Turn the fish over and repeat the operation on the other side.
Filleting fish
Example: sole
1. Having first removed the skin, cut the fish along the backbone from the head to the tail using a sharp knife.
2. Carefully lift the two fillets from the bones using a flat knife.
3. Turn the fish over and remove the two fillets on the other side in the same way.
In the case of round fish there are only two fillets:
1. Make a deep cut along the backbone from the head to the tail.
2. Make an incision behind the gills.
3. Lift the complete fillet away from the bones.
4. Using a knife, remove the bones from the fillet underneath.
5. Remove the skin of the fillets using a knife.
The three-step system
1 Cleaning
Rinse the whole fish or fish fillets under cold running water (in the case of whole fish, rinse it inside and out) and pat dry. In the case of a whole fish which will be cooked in stock, be careful not to damage the mucous membrane when rinsing and wiping the fish dry.
2 Pickling
In the past, fish used to be sprinkled with lemon juice, vinegar or white wine and left covered in the refrigerator to marinate for about 10–15 minutes. The purpose was to absorb the smell and firm up the flesh. Today pickling fish is no longer necessary because fresh fish correctly stored does not produce a fishy smell. Moreover, pickling has a tendency to dry out the flesh.
3 Salting
Whole fish and fish fillets should only be salted immediately before cooking because the salt draws out the fish juices, making the flesh dry. Fish which is going to be marinated should not be salted.
Fish smells
Fish smells can easily be prevented by following a few simple rules:
• Store the fish in a covered container in the refrigerator until it is used.
• Wash your hands and all the objects which have come into contact with the fish in cold water, or better still, rub with lemon juice or vinegar.
• Rinse used dishes in cold water first and only then wash them up carefully in hot water.
Cooking methods
The following cooking methods are suitable for preparing fish:
Poaching in stock, braising, steaming, frying, baking, deepfrying and smoking.
Fish is cooked when:
• the fins and bones can easily be removed.
• the eyes bulge out and appear cloudy.
• the skin can easily be pulled off.
• the flesh separates in flakes when pressed with a fork.
Cockles/scallops/mussels
Cockles, mussels and oysters live in the sea. Their compressed bodies are surrounded by two shells which are held together on one side by a hinge-like joint. Their meat is tender and rich in protein but it goes off very quickly. This seafood is mostly available in the cooler seasons (the months with an “r”). There are also available deep-frozen or in cans. They are several kinds of these bivalves, for instance Pilgrim scallops, scallops, Venus mussels and common mussels.
Buying
• Only buy fresh mussels with closed shells. Throw away any that are already open because they are bad.
• Fresh mussels have a fresh seawater smell.
Preparing mussels
1. Wash the mussels thoroughly in plenty of cold water and brush each one separately until it no longer feels sandy. Any mussels which open while being washed are not edible!
2. Remove any filaments.
3. Put the mussels in the boiling liquid, cover and heat (do not boil) for about 10 minutes until they open, stirring occasionally. Any mussels that do not open during this cooking process are not edible.
4. Remove the mussels from the cooking liquid with a skimming ladle and arrange in a preheated dish.
Crustaceans
Crustaceans are arthropods that live in stretches of water. The external skeleton is strengthened to varying degrees by deposits of calcium carbonate. Crustaceans discard their shells several times during the growing period. They breathe through gills. The shell contains a red dye that turns the shell of these brown-black animals a reddish colour.
Short-tailed crustaceans
Deep-sea prawns, Norway lobsters, giant prawns, North sea prawns.
Removing prawns from their shells
• Hold the cooked prawn by the head in one hand and grasp the tail with the other.
• Press the head and tail gently against each other, then twist and pull off the head.
• Squeeze the shell gently and remove the meat from it.
• In the case of giant prawns or scampi, the intestines must also be removed. These look like dark filaments and are situated below the upper back. Pull the intestines out either with a knife or a wooden cocktail stick, or cut the prawn open along the back and remove the filame
nts of the intestines.
FISH & SEAFOOD
66 | Fried fish fillet
For children
Preparation time: about 30 minutes
4 fish fillets of 200 g/ 7 oz each, e.g. cod, pollack or rosefish
salt
freshly ground pepper
1 egg
4 teaspoons cold water
40 g/11⁄2 oz (6 tablespoons) plain (allpurpose) flour
50–75 g/2–3 oz (3⁄4–1 cup) dried breadcrumbs
75 ml/3 fl oz (3⁄8 cup) cooking oil, e.g. sunflower oil
lemon slices (untreated)
Per serving:
P: 39 g, F: 15 g, C: 12 g, kJ: 1398, kcal: 334
1. Wash the fish fillets under cold running water, pat well dry, cut in serving-sized pieces and sprinkle with salt and pepper.
2. Beat the egg and water together with a fork in a deep plate. Roll the fish fillets first in flour, then in egg and finally in breadcrumbs. Press the breadcrumbs firmly onto the fish and shake off any loose crumbs.
3. Heat the oil in a pan. Fry the fillets over medium heat for about 5 minutes per side until golden brown, then leave to drain on kitchen paper.
4. Garnish the fish fillets with lemon slices and serve.
Tip: Instead of breadcrumbs, you can also roll the fish fillets in egg and sesame seeds.
Accompaniment: Potato salad or parsley potatoes and tomato salad.
FISH & SEAFOOD
67 | Steamed fish
Low in fat
Preparation time: about 50 minutes
1 kg/21⁄4 lb prepared cod, in one piece or fillets
salt
freshly ground pepper
1 bunch soup vegetables
1 onion
250 ml/8 fl oz (1 cup) water
1 bay leaf
5 peppercorns
3 cloves
3 allspice berries
125 ml/4 fl oz (1⁄2 cup) white wine
Per serving:
P: 44 g, F: 2 g, C: 0 g, kJ: 803, kcal: 193
1. Rinse the cod fish under cold running water, pat dry and rub with salt and pepper inside and outside.
2. Meanwhile, prepare the soup vegetables. Peel the celeriac and cut out any bad parts. Peel the carrots and cut off the green leaves and tips. Wash the celeriac and carrots and leave to drain. Remove the outer leaves of the leeks, cut off the root ends and dark green leaves. Cut in half lengthways, wash thoroughly and leave to drain. Peel the onion and cut into quarters.
3. Put the soup vegetables and onion in a large, wide saucepan with the water, a pinch of salt, bay leaf, peppercorns, cloves and allspice berries. Bring to the boil, cover and simmer gently for about 10 minutes.
4. Add the white wine and bring to the boil again. Add the fish, cover and simmer gently for 15–20 minutes over a low heat, perhaps carefully turning it once.
5. Carefully remove the fish from the saucepan and put it on a preheated dish.
Accompaniment: Boiled potatoes and melted brown butter, mustard sauce or mushroom sauce.
Tip: Garnish the fish before serving with lemon segments and parsley.
Variation: Other fish can be used instead of cod, but some have different cooking times. Cod, pollack and rosefish have a cooking time of about 15 minutes, zander and pike (both scaled but without fins and with heads) have a cooking time of about 20 minutes.
FISH & SEAFOOD
68 | Fish brochettes on a bed of rocket and tomato salad
A little more expensive
Preparation time: about 60 minutes
For the brochettes:
2 courgettes, about 200 g/7 oz each
500 ml/17 fl oz (21⁄4 cups) water
salt
4 zander fillets, about 125 g/41⁄2 oz each, or 6 plaice fillets 80 g/ 3 oz each
freshly ground pepper
For the salad:
1 bunch short-stemmed rocket, about 125 g/ 41⁄2 oz
400 g/14 oz beef tomatoes
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1 pinch sugar
5 tablespoons olive oil
In addition:
4 thin kebab skewers
Per serving:
P: 26 g, F: 15 g, C: 5 g, kJ: 1078, kcal: 257
1. To make the brochettes, wash the courgettes, wipe dry, cut off the ends and cut lengthways into 12 thin slices using a slicing machine. Bring the water to the boil in a large saucepan. Add 1⁄2 teaspoon salt. Put the sliced courgettes in the salted boiling water, bring back to the boil, remove from the water, dip in cold water and pat dry.
2. Rinse the fish fillets under cold running water, pat dry, cut in half lengthways and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Roll up the courgette slices and fish fillets, making sure that the side with the skin is on the inside. Thread the rolled courgettes and fish fillets on 4 thin skewers (2 rolled zander or 3 rolled plaice fillets and 3 rolled courgette slices per skewer).
3. For the salad: Remove any wilted, yellow leaves and thick stems, wash and spin dry. Wash the tomatoes, leave to drain, make a cross-shaped incision, dip briefly in boiling water, then dip in cold water. Peel the tomatoes, remove the stalks and cut into cubes.
4. For the salad dressing: Stir the salt, pepper and sugar into the balsamic vinegar. Stir in half the oil and whisk to obtain a smooth mixture.
5. Heat the rest of the oil in a non-stick pan. Add the brochettes and fry over medium heat for about 10 minutes, turning them over now and again.
6. Arrange the rocket and diced tomatoes on the plates. Place the brochettes on top and sprinkle the dressing over them.
Accompaniment: Warm baguette or ciabatta.
Tip: Instead of zander or plaice fillets, 12 lemon sole or sole fillets (about 40 g/11⁄2 oz each) can be used. The fillets must not be cut in half lengthways. Deep-frozen fillets should be defrosted according to the instructions on the package.
FISH & SEAFOOD
69 | Rolled fish fillets on a bed of leeks
For guests
Preparation time: about 45 minutes
4 pieces of fish fillet, about 150 g/5 oz each, e.g. rosefish, pollack or cod fillet
salt
freshly ground pepper
8 thin slices bacon, about 10 g/1⁄3 oz each
1 kg/21⁄4 lb leeks
50 g/2 oz (4 tablespoons) butter or margarine
125 ml/4 fl oz (1⁄2 cup) vegetable stock
125 ml/4 fl oz (1⁄2 cup) whipping cream
20 g/3⁄4 oz (3 tablespoons) plain (allpurpose) flour
2 tablespoons whipping cream
grated nutmeg
In addition:
4 wooden cocktail sticks
Per serving:
P: 37 g, F: 27 g, C: 10 g, kJ: 1796, kcal: 428
1. Rinse the fish fillets under cold running water, pat dry and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Place 2 slices of bacon on each fish fillet, roll up the fillets and secure with wooden cocktail sticks.
2. To prepare the leeks: Remove the outer leaves of the leeks, cut off the root ends and dark leaves. Cut into half lengthways, wash thoroughly, leave to drain and cut into pieces 2 cm/3⁄4 in long.
3. Melt the butter or margarine in a large pan. Add the leeks and season with salt and pepper. Add the vegetable stock and cream, cover and cook for about 5 minutes.
4. Now arrange the rolled fish fillets in between the leeks, cover again and cook gently over low heat for another 10 minutes. Remove the fish fillets, cover and keep in a warm place.
5. Stir the flour into the cream, add to the leeks and bring to the boil, stirring continuously. Season the leeks with salt, pepper and nutmeg, and arrange on a preheated dish with the rolled fish fillets.
Accompaniment: Boiled potatoes or rice.
Tip: Add white wine to the leeks.
Variation: Instead of leeks, you can serve the fish fillets on a bed of spinach. Take 1.5 kg/31⁄4 lb spinach and remove any yellow, wilted leaves and thick stems. Wash carefully in plenty of water. Peel 1–2 onions and 1–2 cloves of garlic and chop finely.
Heat 20 g/3⁄4 oz (11⁄2 tablespoons) butter or 2 tablespoons olive oil in a pan. Add the chopped onions and garlic and fry while stirring. Add the wet spinach and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Cover and braise the spinach for about 5 minutes. Add 150 ml/5 fl oz (5⁄8 cup) whipping cream and adjust the seasoning again. Put the rolled fish fillets between the spinach and cook as indicated above. Remove the cooked fish fillets and keep in a warm place. Thicken the spinach with light gravy thickener.
FISH & SEAFOOD
70 | Truite à la meunière
Classic
Preparation time: about 20 minutes
4 prepared trout, 200 g/7 oz each, salt, pepper
40 g/11⁄2 oz (6 tablespoons) plain (allpurpose) flour
2 tablespoons cooking oil, e.g. sunflower oil
40 g/11⁄2 oz (3 tablespoons) butter
lemon slices (untreated)
Per serving:
P: 31 g, F: 8 g, C: 4 g, kJ: 929, kcal: 222
1. Rinse the trout under cold running water, pat dry and rub with salt inside and out. Coat in flour and shake off any excess.
2. Heat the oil in a pan, add the trout and brown on both sides over medium heat. Add the butter and melt. Fry the trout for about 10 minutes, turning them over frequently.
3. Garnish the trout with lemon slices before serving.
Accompaniment: Boiled potatoes sprinkled with parsley, mixed green salad.
Variation: Trout with almonds: add 50–75 g (2–3 oz) slivered almonds and brown in the pan with the trout. Sprinkle over before serving.
FISH & SEAFOOD
71 | Salmon trout with leaf spinach
For guests (6 servings)
Preparation time: about 80 minutes, excluding oven cooking time
1.5 kg/31⁄4 lb leaf spinach
200 g/7 oz shallots