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Contents
Title Page
Copyright Notice
Author’s Note
Maps
Epigraphs
Part I: The Making of a World
Chapter 1
Chapter 2
Chapter 3
Chapter 4
Chapter 5
Chapter 6
Chapter 7
Part II: The Cheerful Day
Chapter 8
Chapter 9
Chapter 10
Chapter 11
Chapter 12
Chapter 13
Chapter 14
Part III: A Time for Reaping
Chapter 15
Chapter 16
Chapter 17
Afterword
Bibliography
Index
By the Same Author
Copyright
Author’s Note
This book is all true. I have not been able to discover everything that I would have liked, but nothing has been invented or imagined. A number of people both in England and France, and from varying walks of life, have contributed greatly to its writing, either through their own writings and specialized knowledge, through family papers they have lent to me or through conversations I have been privileged to have with them. In particular, several Chassignolles citizens, all of whom are, with their consent, mentioned under their real names, have shown me a generosity and interest without which my re-creation of a past world would have been impossible. I hope they will accept this work as a tribute, however foreign, to themselves, their ancestors, and to the tenacious traditions of rural French society.
To all the living, and to the known and much-remembered dead, my humble thanks. To all those dead I never knew in person, whose shadowy lives I have tried to call up from the gulf of time – my grateful salutations.
Gillian Tindall
Once, on this earth, once, on this familiar spot of ground, walked other men and women, as actual as we are today, thinking their own thoughts, swayed by their own passions, but now all gone, one generation vanishing after another, gone as utterly as we ourselves shall shortly be gone like ghosts at cockcrow.
G. M. Trevelyan, An Autobiography and Other Essays
The written history of these regions is odd. It opens extremely late: there is very little, it seems, till the nineteenth century. The country people who lived there, far from towns and main roads, remained for a long time without a voice of their own or anyone else to speak for them. They were nevertheless there; they did things, cared about things, and thus had their effect, without anyone realizing it, on the heart and soul of the nation.
Daniel Halévy, Visites aux Paysans du Centre (1907–1934)
I
The Making of a World
Chapter 1
One autumn day in the 1970s an old man left his small house in a village near the geographical heart of France and caught the weekly bus into the nearby market town.
He was not a Frenchman, though he had spent every summer in the village for many years, since long before foreigners were generally seen in the French countryside. He was by birth an Australian and by vocation a painter: he had harvested the landscapes, the skies, the light and the stone of the Berry in his pictures, and these were, in token of friendship, disseminated in many houses in the village and neighbouring farms. He had come to France as a soldier in 1916; the Second World War found him in Paris again at the Liberation in a liaison job. There, no longer a young man, he encountered a secretary of charm and intelligence who was not young either. In due course she took him back to the house she had inherited from her parents and introduced him to the covertly amused but respectful neighbours she had known since childhood.
These neighbours were not entirely surprised. They had always known that Zénaïde – rather a fancy name for a local girl, what do you expect? – was a bit of a dreamer, with tastes and expectations outside their ken, and anyway look at the family she came from … Her mother going odd in that way. And her father: an amiable man but no head at all for business. And her grandmother – such a refined yet open-hearted person. People a bit out of the ordinary run and long remembered.
Although the painter was known to have another life, and another wife, in England, that was a long way off and the fact was politely unmentioned. The summers together continued for ten years till Zénaïde herself died before she reached old age. She left the small house and its contents to her painter for his lifetime. A handyman, he had embellished the classic French exterior with a veranda and a blue-painted trellis, so that it now resembled an English cottage orné of the Edwardian era. He also converted the grain loft into bedrooms reached by an inside boxed ladder, and built on a kitchen and bathroom in a lean-to with a soakaway to a covered pit beyond the apple trees – at a time when hardly another house in the village had plumbing. The two main rooms, however, were left as they were and had always been. He continued to return and open the place up every summer, spending months at a time in the décor of past lives he had never actually known. In the 1960s and ’70s the polished press in the bigger room was full of the linen sheets, square, lace-edged pillowcases and towel-sized table-napkins with initials in the damask that had been a bride’s dowry in the 1890s. The padded prie-dieu stood where it always had, and so did the wood-burning stove. So did the footstool with the gros point cat upon it, worn now but still as lifelike as when it was worked long ago by Zénaïde’s grandmother, when she was still a pretty girl, before her own life became harder and sadder.
Leaving the house, the painter carefully secured the shutters as usual and turned the heavy iron key, locking up all those things again in timeless suspension along with his own paintings, his cream flannel suits and his old straw hat with the brush marks on it. The bed in his attic room was left made up, there were packets and tins in the kitchen cupboards; a carton with a little milk left in it stood overlooked by the stove. He meant to return within two or three weeks. He never did. The vivid autumn of central France declined into the bleached landscape of winter. In the house, only the mice and rats moved. The stool cat sat on with her happy face. The unmoving air, ventilated only by the chimney, took on the taint of soot. The forgotten milk became a brownish, transparent liquid, infinitely antique. Dead leaves silted up in the back porch by the makeshift bathroom. The weeks grew into months. People in the village began to worry, to recall how vague the old man had seemed that summer, and to ask one another what should be done. Eventually, fumblingly, enquiries were made, someone was contacted, someone else was found to translate a lawyer’s letter, the wheels of necessary destruction began cumbersomely to turn, finally rendering Zénaïde’s forebears and their home extinct long after their own deaths.
The following summer the house was at last cleared. It would be sold by its inheritors, Zénaïde’s distant cousins. They took most of the contents, except for a few things that were given away. They left behind, on a corner of the mantelshelf in the darkened, empty room behind the shutters, a small cardboard case meant to contain those cards that are distributed in pious families to commemorate baptisms, first communions and Masses said for the dead. Perhaps they assumed that cards were what was still in it and therefore, with some half-formed sense of respect or superstition, refrained from putting it on the great garden bonfire which had already consumed so many long-paid bills, so many mildewed cushions, wormy chairs, quilts sticky with moths’ eggs, and mouse-wrecked packets of suga
r.
* * *
Had Zénaïde’s cousins looked, as I did when I came to the house, they would have found that the case was packed tight with seven letters, two of them in their small envelopes, the others showing traces of having been simply folded and sealed. In the late afternoon light coming through the door that I had left open behind me, I peered at them and found a date – 1862 – and then another. The copybook handwritings varied: I saw that the letters could not all be from one person, but the ink was faded and even a cursory glance through the soft wads of paper delicate as old skin showed that some of the French was very odd.
I had come to collect the cat footstool, which had been promised me. Now I creaked open the shutter over the stone sink in the smaller room, dusted the long-dried surface with my handkerchief and carefully spread the letters out.
The Célestine to whom they were all addressed I knew to have been Zénaïde’s grandmother. I knew almost nothing else about her at that time, but she had been a young girl in this village; she must have kept the letters all her life and her granddaughter had continued to do so after her death. They were all from suitors, except for one from a young soldier brother, and all, except that last letter, dated from the early 1860s. One was from a local schoolmaster, another from a salesman travelling for a wine merchant. Others came from a bakery, from a village where rural iron foundries then were, and from another known for its annual cattle fair: these writers expressed themselves with more difficulty in the unfamiliarity of the written word. From the way they were addressed – variations on ‘Mademoiselle Célestine Chaumette, in her father’s house, the Auberge at Chassignolles’ – I saw that she had been the daughter of the local innkeeper; as such, she must have had the opportunity to meet and attract a wider range of admirers than most country girls at that date.
Some sentences sprang fresh as flowers from the pages; others seemed for the moment impenetrable. I found that each letter was in a different hand except for two that were from the same young man, writing first in hope and then in bitter disappointment. Even so, he was not bitter at Célestine: she seems to have had the gift of inspiring respect and affection in youth as in old age: ‘… I havent put myself about to talk to your parents because it wouldnt be any use, I wanted to know what you thought first of all tho’ I do think they wouldnt a been averse … All I can say is, I wish you from the bottom of my heart a husband who will always be faithful to you, for you dont deserve to be Cheated on [… je te souhaite du plus profond de moncoeur un marie qui te soie toujours fidelle car tu merite pas detre Trompé].’
In the dusk, which in that part of France, south of the Loire but just north of the mountains, descends with a pinkish, theatrical light, I returned to my own cottage on the other side of the village. I took with me the cat footstool, Célestine’s cat with its worn, wool smile. I also took the letters. Once ephemeral as butterflies, they had been cherished and kept for reasons of obscure pride, comfort or regret; messages from a life already past to Célestine, they had undergone a long hibernation. They had been transformed into messages of another kind, making ‘for ever’ come true in a different way from the one the writers originally, bravely intended; they were to be cherished for new reasons. Now, when Célestine herself, all her correspondents, every single person they knew and most of those they were ever going to know, had vanished as if they had never been, I would bring them to life again.
Chapter 2
I had come to the village some dozen years earlier on just such an evening of unearthly light. I arrived there by chance, with my husband and our then small son, driving south on minor roads, hesitating before obscure signposts by fields where white Charolais cattle drifted in ghostly herds and mistletoe hung in swags from the trees. It was a relief when we saw a church spire and a water-tower ahead and at last drove into an irregular square with a café and two petrol pumps and a tree. We stayed the night in one of the café’s four hotel rooms, ate a home-cooked meal, went for a brief walk round unknowable houses in the starry dark that surprised us by its sudden cold. In the hot May sun of the following morning we played ball with our child in the hotel yard, packed up the car and drove off, mentally rolling up behind us like a map this unremarkable village. However, by chance we returned, in a different season. And then returned again. The place’s situation near the geographical centre of France, an area crossed by many itineraries yet generally consigned by the French themselves to that unexplored and apparently unexplorable region la France profonde, began to speak to us.
On our fourth or fifth visit we asked the owner of the café-hotel, Suzanne Calvet, who had inherited it from her father when it was a plain village inn, if she knew of any houses for sale? It was 1972, the autumn before the Common Market was due to include Britain in its reluctant embrace.
‘I’ll go and ask the men in the bar,’ she said.
These, since it was morning, were a coterie of elderly citizens all wearing the striped trousers and black alpaca jackets that had indicated respectability in their youth. The consensus was that there were two possible houses for us. One was a pretty but large and dilapidated property by the cemetery. (It was later bought by a local faith-healer and teller of fortunes, but good fortune it did not bring him.) The other house was agreed by all to be extremely tiny but in good condition. Georges Bernardet, who had acquired it in 1938 for the widowed aunt who had brought him up, was known to be a conscientious owner. ‘The Proprietor’ was his village nickname.
‘Bought it for her out of what he saved when he was doing his military service, he did.’
‘How he managed to save beats me. But that’s him all over.’ Comfortable, slightly malicious chuckles. They were café-frequenters; Georges Bernardet was not.
‘Ah, it’s so small, it wouldn’t have cost much then. Doesn’t cost much now, come to that. Same price as a small car.’ To me: ‘You buy it, Madame, you won’t regret it, the roof’s sound … Well, go and look at it anyway. Last house in the village on the Séchère road, the corner by the cross. Its garden’s all down to cabbages this year. Georges never leaves land idle … You can’t miss it.’
Four months later, on a day when January hoar-frost was petrifying every leaf, blade of grass and spider’s web, the house became ours. Or, more accurately, it became mine, since I was the one able to be present in the attorney’s office in La Châtre for the ceremonial signing of documents that French law requires.
Bernardet had ridden in on his mobylette. I did not then know, but came later to understand, what an exceptional event it had to be to bring him into the town. Tall, heavy, battered-looking but wearing his sixty years well, he was ill at ease, constantly resettling his cap on his thick grey hair. He was mistrustful of the lawyer, the traditional enemy. Some months later, when it became apparent that an extra and wrong land registry number had been put in by mistake on the purchase document, Bernardet was not so much annoyed as grimly triumphant to have his suspicions vindicated, and gave the attorney a piece of his mind.
That day he was circumspect, however; disposed to be amiable to me but on his guard, sizing me up over an exceptional, ceremonial drink in the café afterwards. Was I going to like his house – understand how to live in it? Would I and my husband really be happy for the time being with the earth closet he had rashly agreed to construct for us at the bottom of the garden? He spoke carefully in his elegant, Sunday-best French, which was different from the tongue he employed at home. When the subject of the cabbage-patch garden came up, however, he became more animated, even gallant.
‘I myself will do the garden for you, Madame, as I mentioned to you when you first looked at the house. That’s good earth you’ve got there. I like to see it put to proper use.’
The next summer, and for sixteen summers after, the garden in late summer was a neat vision of potatoes, carrots, leeks, lettuces, haricot beans and tomatoes. Once in a while there was a coolness from him if we failed to be there at the right time to harvest everything he provided. We would beg him to u
se the stuff himself, but this was not part of his plan. He never entirely came to terms with our itinerant habits, but after many years he relented so far as to regard these as our fate and our misfortune rather than our own foolish choice. Once or twice, coming upon me with papers spread out on the table, he expressed sympathy for me – it must be hard on the brain, I ought to take care not to overdo it – and general relief that he himself had never been constrained by a Higher Authority to take up book-work.
Choice and free will were things of which life had provided him with little experience, yet he had turned his own fate to good advantage. Born into a large and poor family, bred to labour on the land of others, he set himself to acquire territory of his own. Over many years, intelligently and persistently, he worked his way into a position of modest comfort and universal respect: this was the real drama of his life.
Its one great adventure was a different matter. Called up at the beginning of the Second World War, he was taken prisoner at the fall of France along with half a million other Frenchmen. He was sent to a transit camp on the borders of Belgium, where his job was to get requisitioned horses ready for transport to Germany. It was clear to him that soon it would be men who were being deported thence, and having established an image of himself as a trusty, he made his plans to escape and did so. How he managed, without papers, money or civilian clothes, to make his way over hundreds of miles of occupied France was something I never entirely understood. Once, in conversation alone with me, he mentioned that une personne had been of crucial assistance at one point. French uses the female form to describe any person, so the word was opaque, but I felt that if his helper had been a man he would have said quelqu’un or un type (a chap). At other times he said that whenever he sensed a German patrol might be near he would take to the fields and pretend to be tending the crops, a role in which he presumably looked so convincing that he was never questioned. Once he hastily joined a family who were digging up potatoes, muttering to them ‘I’m your cousin…’ Potatoes, cabbages and turnips – the main crops at that season in the chilly north – also provided his food. The motorized and provisioned troops of 1940 covered territory at speed; half France was in German hands almost before the distraught populace had grasped the scale of the defeat. But stragglers, deserters, escaped prisoners, and refugees were back to the pace of foot-soldiers living off the land, as in the days when France was ‘sixteen days wide and twenty-two days long’.
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