by Bob Holmes
consumer panels, 186–90
continuity, 67
cookbooks, 264
cooking:
flavor changes in, 236–40
functions of, 4
as rewarding experience, 6–7
corn, 220, 222
Cornell University, 116, 224, 230
Cowart, Beverly, 157–59
cream, 35
creaminess, 104
Crocker, E. C., 50, 61
crockery, effect on flavor, 114
crunch, 104, 111, 118
Culinary Institute of America (CIA), 228–32, 265
cyclamate, 29
Dalton, Pam, 75, 120
Daniher, Andy, 177, 179–80, 194–95, 196–97
decay, signal of, 35
delta-lactones, 168
dirac, 199–201
Dirac, Paul, 199
distillation apparatus, 233
distraction, 65–66
DNA, of plants, 207
dogs, 67, 69
domestic science movement, 262
“Dorito effect,” 196
Dornenburg, Andrew, 251
Doty, Richard, 44–47, 64, 153–58, 159, 160
Handbook of Olfaction and Gustation, 45
durian, 69, 71
EDTA, 76
efficiency, 262
electrolytes, 16
encapsulation, 184–86
essential oils, 170
ethnic foods, 6, 261–62, 263
ethyl acetate, 169
ethyl butyrate, 168, 169, 174, 175, 176–77
ethyl crotonate, 170
ethylene gas, ripening fruit with, 212
ethyl isobutyrate, 55
ethyl maltol, 55
ethyl methylphenylglycidate, 83
eugenol, 167
evaporation, 233
evolution, 3–4, 17, 34, 55, 133, 139
exhalation, 68
expectations, 27–28, 114–17, 223–24, 230, 243
experience, learning via, 133–34, 243
extraction, 232–33
facial recognition, 3, 4
Fahlberg, Constantin, 29
farmers’ markets, 263–64
fast food, 262, 263, 264
calories of, 151
fat:
and astringency, 102–4
mouthfeel of, 103–4
fat breakdown, 221
Fat Duck, The, England, 112–13, 219, 247
“fat taste,” 22, 34–36
fatty acids, 33, 35–36, 208, 234–36
fermentation, 36, 218, 219, 240–41
flavor:
and aging population, 266
“artificial,” 195
balance of, 168, 183, 229, 269
“base” of, 183
and calories, 134
categories of, 191–94
complementary, 248
consumer testing, 186–90
in context, 183
created in the brain, 5, 121, 196
created in the lab, 164–201
decay of, 184
delivery of, 184–86
digital re-creation of, 80–85
emotional pull of, 5–6
enhancement of, 37
evolving/new, 209
expectation of, 27–28, 114–17, 223–24
experience of, 121–31, 133–34, 268
fantasy, 193
and fermentation, 240–41
“gold standard,” 179
harmony of, 49
heat application for, 233–40
in initial bite, 146
in insoluble capsule, 185
intensifying, 232–33
and language, 113, 123, 189–90, 191–94
mixing to order, 194–97
molecules in, 167, 184, 199
multisensory approach to, 9, 105–10, 115–21
“natural,” 195–96
and nutrition, 134, 205
orthonasal olfaction, 68–71, 176
perceptions of, 3, 9, 116–17, 118–19, 133–34, 223–24, 243
and poisons, 209
and post-ingestive effects, 133
predictions about, 265–71
and presentation, 257–59
rat-friendly, 150
recognition of, 3–4
renaissance in, 261, 263
retronasal olfaction, 68–71, 176
role of, 133
science of, 10, 229–32, 247, 260
from smell vs. taste, 8, 15, 19–22, 47–48
and texture, 104
top and bottom notes in, 168
training in analysis of, 268–71
use of term, 8–9
Flavor Bible, The (Page and Dornenburg), 251
flavor burn, 170
flavor industry, 164–201
author’s experience in, 172–78
beginnings of, 166–67
character compounds in, 167–70, 173
and chemophobia, 194–97
and consumer requests, 196– 97
and context (“base”), 183–84
creating new flavors, 179–80
and delivery, 184–86
differentiators in, 178
essential oils in, 170
flavor wheels in, 192–93
Givaudan, 171–80, 184–85, 191–94, 198, 213, 269
Maillard reaction in, 181–82, 200, 231, 236–40
and “note-by-note cooking,” 198–201
and “richness” flavor, 180–83
testing new flavors, 186–90
and vocabulary, 189–92
flavor-nutrient conditioning, 135–37, 139–40, 141, 162
flavor volatiles, see volatile aroma molecules
flavor wheels, 192–93, 270
Fletcher, Horace/“Fletcherizing,” 149
fluid-bed dryer, 184–85
focus, 65–66
FONA International, 164–66, 172, 183, 191, 266
food:
built from “pure compounds,” 198
“natural,” 194–95
food adventurous individuals, 42
food cravings, 160
Food Network, 264
food pairing movement, 248–49
fragrant odor, 50, 61–62, 193
French Laundry, California, 146
Friedman, Mark, 151, 161
frontal operculum, 128
fruit:
flavor changes after picking, 221–22
flavor in, 205, 208–9, 225
nonclimacteric, 212
organic, 222–24
ripened with ethylene gas, 212
ripeness of, 208
shipping and handling of, 212
storage of, 221–22
tree- or vine-ripened, 205
wants to be eaten, 208
wants to be remembered, 208–9
water in, 203
fungiform papillae, 13, 38–39, 96
furaneol, 168, 174–75, 176, 238
furfuryl mercaptan, 167, 169
gamma-decalactone, 175, 176, 213
gamma-nonalactone, 167
garlic, black, 237–38
garlicky odor, 61
gas chromatograph, 167, 239
gastric bypass surgery, 135
genetics, 39–43, 77, 96, 152
genome-wide association study (GWAS), 152
genotyping, 213
geosmin, 220
geranial, 206
ghrelin, 151
Gilbert, Avery, 157
Givaudan, 171–80, 184–85, 191–94, 198, 213, 269
glucose, 136
glucosinolates, 207, 221, 222
glutamate, 16, 23, 25, 26
goaty odor, 61
“go togetherness,” 119–21, 231, 241–57
grape, 167
graph theory, 244, 246
grows together/goes together, 242
guaiacol, 79, 80
gustin, 39
gut, taste receptors in, 33
Gymnema, 21
habanero pe
ppers, 86, 90, 91, 93
Haller, Albrecht von, 61
harmonies, 49
Hawking, Stephen, 258
Hayes, John, 24, 94, 96, 97, 98, 103
Hazan, Marcella, 264
hearing, sense of, 56, 110–14
heat:
application of, 233–40
see also chili peppers
heavy atoms, 51
Henderson, L. F., 50, 61
herbs, 4–5, 208
hexanal, 84
hippocampus, 58
Hobkinson, Caroline, 106, 107, 109, 110, 113, 114, 121
Hodgson, Bob, 124–26
Hofmann, Thomas, 83
honey, sweetness of, 25
horse sweat, 270–71
House of Wolf, London, 105–7
human genome, 52–53
Human Genome Project, 53
humans, evolutionary heritage of, 3–4, 17
hunger, 132–63
and bad-tasting food, 151
and obesity, 145, 150, 152
regulating the level of, 151
in social context, 151
hunter-gatherers, 133
hydrogen, 51
hyenas, 17
IBM:
Deep Blue supercomputer, 252
Thomas J. Watson Research Center, 251–57
ibmchefwatson.com, 253–54
ice cream, 113, 116, 129, 230
iguana, 194
immune-defense system, 34
infant formula, 141–42
insects, as protein source, 266
International Flavors and Fragrances, 169, 172
ionone, 248
ISO (International Organization for Standardization), 110
isoamyl acetate, 194
isothiocyanates, 221
isovaleric acid, 79
Italian Futurist movement (1930s), 116–17
Jackson, Michael, 52
Jahai people, 59–60
jalapeño peppers, 86, 90, 91, 92–93
jelly bean test, 7–8, 20, 46, 72
Jolly Rancher, 194
Julius, David, 87–88, 92
“kalbi flavor,” 179–80
Kandinsky, Wassily, 257
Kansas State University, 223
Kasparov, Garry, 252
Keller, Andreas, 62–63
Keller, Thomas, 146
Kennedy, Diana, 264
Kerth, Chris, 238–40
kimchi, 240
kiwi fruit, 204
Klee, Harry, 202–6, 208, 209–11, 212, 225, 226–27
Knight, Sarah, 219
Kok, Peter de, 31–33
kokumi, 36–37
Kolskog, Maynard, 199
Krautwurst, Dietmar, 83
Kuhn-Bolger giraffe forceps, 158
Kwok, Robert Ho Man, 26–27
lactic acid, 240
Laing, David, 60
language:
agreement on terms, 190
color vocabulary, 59, 191
and flavor perception, 123, 189–90, 191–94
glossary of descriptors, 192
specialized, 59–60
specific words for flavors, 113
Laska, Matthias, 64–65
La Taverna del Santo Palato, 116–17
lemon, 167, 173
lemon juice, sourness of, 25
leptin, 151
limonene, 201
linalool, 170
liniments, 95
Linnaeus, Carl, 61
lip-reading, 117, 120
liquids, overconsumption of, 149
lithium, 32
local ingredients, 242, 263–64
Logan, Darren, 73–74
Loss, Chris, 229–31
lubrication, 103–4
Lundström, Johan, 119–21, 130–31
lycopene, 206
Maier, Mary, 180–83, 192
Maillard reaction, 181–82, 200, 231, 236–40
Mainland, Joel, 50–52, 54, 70, 78–80, 81–82, 187
maltodextrin, 136
Mastering the Art of French Cooking (Child), 264
matrix effects, 92
Mattes, Rick, 34–36
Mazourek, Michael, 91–92, 224–26
McGill University, 138
McKee, Mary, 184–85
meat:
aged, 235–36
browning in a little fat, 236
fat molecules in, 234–35, 238
grain-fed, 235
and Maillard reaction, 181, 236–40
meat flavors, 180–83, 193, 235–36
melanin, 207
Mennella, Julie, 141–43
menthol, 89, 102
mercaptans, 157
metabolism, 161
methanethiol, 77
methional, 84
methoxypyrazines, 217, 230
methyl anthranilate, 167
methyl benzoate, 173
methyl salicylate, 175
mice, odor receptors of, 73–74
Michel, Charles, 257
milk:
breast, 140–41
chocolate in, 183–84
in tea, 102
milky/fishy odor, 62
mindful eating, 269
mint, 87, 109
Mitchell, Alyson, 204, 214, 294
modernization, 262
molecular gastronomy, 197
molecular rhymes, 248–50
molecules:
breaking down via heat, 233–34
olfaction, 48–49, 51–52
shared flavor, 247–51
unique smells of, 52
volatile, see volatile aroma molecules
Monell Chemical Senses Center, Philadelphia, 18–22, 39–42, 74, 90, 119–20, 156
monounsaturated fatty acids, 235–36
Morrot, Gil, 115
mouth:
closed for chewing, 68
perception of flavor in, 118–19
mouthfeel, 22, 87, 89, 90, 100, 102, 103–4
mouthwashes, 89
MREs (meals ready-to-eat), 245–46
MSG (monosodium glutamate), 25–28, 266
Mullin, Brian, 172–77, 191–92, 198, 213
multisensory perception, 105–10, 115–21
mushroom alcohol (1-octen-3-ol), 200–201
music, 113–14
musky odor, 50, 61
mutations, 226–27
Myhrvold, Nathan, 258–59
Modernist Cuisine, 259
nasal cavity, in exhalation, 68
nasal dilator strips, 77
nasal sprays, 76–77
National Geographic, 156–57
natural gas, odors added to, 157
nauseating odor, 61
neophobia, 136
Nestrud, Michael, 244, 245–47
neurons, 128–29
neuropeptide Y, 151
neurotoxins, 209
newborn babies, 140–42, 144
New Zealand, wine in, 215–19, 268
nitrogen, 216, 238
NIZO, 31
Noble, Ann, 192
Noma, Copenhagen, 249–50
nontasters, 37, 39
normal tasters, 37, 39
Northern Alberta Institute of Technology, 199
noses:
focus on flavor, 5, 67–71
and jelly bean test, 7–8, 20, 72
measuring the acuity of, 64
odor receptors in, 56, 73
odors sorted by, 71
and olfactory threshold, 45–46
plugged by head colds, 19–20
smells encoded by, 10, 48
and wasabi receptor, 88
of wine experts, 60–61, 76, 268
“note-by-note cooking,” 198–201
Nouvelle Vague, “I Just Can’t Get Enough,” 113
nucleus accumbens, 137
obesity, 9, 145, 150, 152, 162, 166
Ocean Spray, 246–47
odorants, generalists, 84
odor objects, 56–58
odor receptors, 54–
55, 56, 57, 63, 71–75, 78–80, 152
odors:
categories of, 61
detection threshold for, 76
identifying, 61–62
memory of, 130
“primary,” 81
stimuli of, 65
ten thousand, 49–50
and wine tasting, 60–61
see also olfaction; smell
oil, rancid, 36
oleic acid, 235
oleogustus, 35
olfaction, 19, 44–61
complexity of, 47–51, 57
and focus, 65–66
harmonies of, 49
orthonasal, 68–71, 176
retronasal, 68–71, 176
olfaction molecules, 48–49, 51–52
olfactory epithelium, 48, 52, 68–69, 70–71, 74, 76–77, 157–58
olfactory receptors, 10, 49, 52–56
individual differences in, 77
“orphan,” 53–54
and perception, 78–79, 119
olfactory silence, 67
olfactory threshold, measurement of, 45–46, 64–65
olive oil, 35
as “one-cough” or “two-cough,” 88–89
omnivores, 3, 140
onions, 221–22
caramelization of, 238
online recipes, 250
orbitofrontal cortex (OFC), 128–29, 131
Orff, Carl, “Carmina Burana,” 113
organic produce, 222–24
orthonasal olfaction, 68–71, 176
otters, 17
overcooking, 104
overeating, 150–52
oysters, 112, 113
Page, Karen, 251
pain:
benign masochism in, 96
blocked by numbness, 100
as danger warning, 96–97
and pleasure, 94–97
pairings, 102, 119–21, 129–30, 230–31, 248
palate cleanser, 102–4
pandas, 17
pattern recognition, 187
Pavlov, Ivan, 135
Penicillium camemberti, 240
Penicillium roqueforti, 240–41
peppermint, 87
peppers:
chili, see chili peppers
green, 217
Szechuan, 99–100
vibration from, 99–100
Peppet, Jeff, 172, 179, 193, 194, 196
perceptions:
role of, 133
synthetic, 121–22, 134
performance art, 107
perfumes, 193
Petrini, Carlo, 264
phenolics, 102
phenylethyl alcohol, 45
phenylthiocarbamide (PTC), 34, 41–42
philosophy, and sensory science, 62
phospholipids, 234–35
photosynthesis, 213, 227
pickles, 102
picky eaters, 42
pineapple, 55, 169
Pinel, Florian, 252–54, 257
Piqueras-Fiszman, Betina, 114
pizza, toppings for, 243–44
plants:
arms race among, 209
defenses of, 207, 234
diversity of, 234
DNA of, 207
interaction with the world, 207
“metabolic bureaucracy” of, 220
photosynthesis in, 213, 227
research on, 219–20
soil and flavor in, 214