½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper
2 teaspoons cornstarch
2 tablespoons water
4 cups chicken stock
¼ pound boneless pork
½ cup shredded carrots
½ cup bamboo shoots, cut into strips
½ cup firm tofu, cut into strips or
½ inch chunks (see Note)
2 eggs, beaten well
2 teaspoons Asian sesame oil
2 tablespoons thinly sliced green onion
SERVES 4 TO 6
NOTE If you can’t find firm tofu, see page 178 for instructions on making it at home.
Cover the dried mushrooms with warm water and soak for 20 minutes, until they are softened. If using dried softened shiitakes or fresh shiitakes, remove the stems and cut the caps into long thin strips. If using another type of mushroom, cut lengthwise into thin slices or strips.
In a medium bowl, combine the vinegar, soy sauce, chili oil, salt, and pepper, and stir to combine everything well. In a small bowl, combine the cornstarch and water and mix them well. Cut the pork crosswise into thin slices and then lengthwise into long, thin strips.
Bring the chicken stock to a boil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the pork, mushrooms, carrots, bamboo shoots, and tofu, and stir well. Adjust the heat to maintain a gentle boil, and cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Have all the remaining ingredients handy, the vinegar mixture, cornstarch, and beaten eggs, so that you can add them one after the other to complete the soup.
With the soup boiling gently, add the vinegar mixture and stir well. Add the cornstarch mixture and stir until the soup thickens, less than 1 minute. Stir so that the soup is whirling gently around the pan, and slowly drizzle the eggs onto the surface of the soup, so that they spread lazily out into threads.
Remove from the heat, gently stir in the sesame oil and green onion, and serve hot or warm.
chicken & eggs
ALMOND CHICKEN
MOO GOO GAI PAN
KUNG PAO CHICKEN
CHICKEN WITH CASHEWS
LEMON CHICKEN
FIVE-SPICE ROAST CHICKEN
RED-COOKED CHICKEN
EVERYDAY EGG FOO YONG
TAIWAN-STYLE OMELET WITH CRUNCHY PICKLED RADISH
Chinese cooks and diners adore chicken, and the range of dishes made with it seems endless. Many of the chicken dishes we love in Chinese restaurants can be made at home with excellent results. The four stir-fried chicken dishes with which this chapter begins are justifiably popular, and when you have your stir-fry routine in place, you will be amazed at how simple they are to cook.
My list of Chinatown restaurant favorites starts with the trio of Moo Goo Gai Pan (page 50), Almond Chicken (page 49), and Chicken with Cashews (page 55). The methods are similar, with chicken chopped or sliced, a seasoning mixture stirred up for adding near the end of the cooking time, and a session or two of chopping vegetables and herbs, like ginger, garlic, and green onions, or celery, peppers, and onions, perhaps. You can do all this in advance and refrigerate the chicken, so that when it’s time to cook, you line up the ingredients at the stove and make the moves that bring together a wonderful dish.
Kung Pao Chicken (page 53) is more elaborate, though my version is streamlined enough to keep it in the quick-and-easy and delicious realm. You could substitute shrimp with great results here and amp up the chilies if you want extra heat. Lemon Chicken (page 56) is also a bit more involved, though not difficult. You’ll need to slice chicken breast thinly and pan-fry it just before cooking. The sauce can be made in advance and kept warm, and the cooking is straightforward and spectacular with its sweet and tangy citrus flavors.
If you want a fix-ahead chicken dish, turn to Red-Cooked Chicken (page 60), which can be made well in advance and which only improves in flavor given time to rest before serving. Everyday Egg Foo Yong (page 62) and Taiwan-Style Omelet with Crunchy Pickled Radish (page 64) are fast and satisfying examples of the Chinese appreciation of eggs as a worthy and versatile ingredient that should never be exiled to the breakfast or brunch menu section. And for the ultimate busy-day egg dish, simply scramble three eggs, season with a bit of salt, a splash of sesame oil, and a handful of chopped fresh herbs or green onion, and cook it in a skillet as a flat omelet to enjoy with hot sauce and rice, anytime, day or night.
ALMOND CHICKEN
My father always orders this tasty Chinatown classic whenever he treats us to a family-style Chinese restaurant feast. Also known as almond gai ding, it’s a beautiful tumble of chunky shapes. A big bowl of rice and a platter of carrot sticks and celery sticks with Sweet-and-Sour Dipping Sauce (page 172) round it out into a wonderful home-cooked meal.
12 ounces boneless, skinless chicken breast
2 tablespoons soy sauce
¼ cup chicken stock
1 tablespoon dry sherry or Shaoxing rice wine
2 teaspoons cornstarch
1 teaspoon Asian sesame oil
½ teaspoon sugar
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 teaspoons chopped fresh ginger
½ cup chopped onion (½-inch chunks)
½ cup chopped green bell pepper (½-inch chunks)
1/3 cup sliced bamboo shoots ¾ cup dry-roasted, salted almonds
¼ cup chopped green onion
SERVES 4
Chop the chicken breast into 1-inch chunks. Place the chicken in a medium bowl, add the soy sauce, and stir to season it evenly.
In a small bowl, combine the chicken stock, sherry, cornstarch, sesame oil, and sugar, and stir well to dissolve everything into a smooth sauce.
In a wok or a large, deep skillet, heat the vegetable oil over high heat. Add the ginger and toss well. Add the chicken and spread it out into a single layer. Cook undisturbed until the edges turn white, about 1 minute, and then toss well.
Add the onion and green pepper. Cook, tossing now and then, until all the chicken has changed color and the onions and peppers are fragrant and beginning to wilt. Add the bamboo shoots and cook, tossing often, until the chicken is cooked through, about 1 minute more.
Add the chicken stock mixture, pouring it in around the sides of the pan. Toss well to mix everything together. As soon as the sauce thickens, add the almonds and green onion and toss just until everything is evenly mixed together. Transfer to a serving plate and serve hot or warm.
MOO GOO GAI PAN
I remember my first order of moo goo gai pan at Jung’s Chinese Restaurant in Greensboro, North Carolina. It was a delectable mound of spring-green snow peas with sliced mushrooms and chicken, all glistening in a velvety sauce. I loved it then and I still do, especially since nowadays it’s made with fresh mushrooms instead of canned ones.
½ pound boneless, skinless chicken breast
3 tablespoons chicken stock or water
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon dry sherry or Shaoxing rice wine
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon sugar
¼ teaspoon freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 tablespoon chopped garlic
1 tablespoon chopped fresh ginger
1 cup thinly sliced fresh mushrooms
1 cup trimmed fresh snow peas
½ cup sliced water chestnuts
2 teaspoons Asian sesame oil
SERVES 4
Cut the chicken breast crosswise into strips about 2 inches long. In a small bowl, combine the chicken stock, soy sauce, dry sherry, cornstarch, salt, sugar, and pepper, and stir to dissolve everything into a smooth sauce. Set out a medium bowl in which to place the chicken after its first cooking session.
Heat a wok or a large, deep skillet over high heat. Add the vegetable oil and swirl to coat the pan. Add the garlic and ginger and toss well until fragrant. Scatter in the chicken, spreading it out into a single layer. Cook undisturbed until the edges turn white, about 1 minute, and then toss well. Cook until most
of the pieces have changed color, and then scoop up the partially cooked chicken, leaving the liquid behind in the pan, and place into the reserved bowl.
Scatter the mushrooms into the pan, spread them out, and cook for 1 minute, tossing once or twice. Return the chicken and any juices in the bowl to the pan, toss well, and cook 1 minute more.
Add the snow peas and water chestnuts and toss well. Cook, tossing often, until the snow peas are bright green and just tender, and the chicken is cooked through.
Add the chicken stock mixture, pouring it in around the sides of the pan. Cook, tossing now and then, until the sauce is bubbling, shiny, and thickened and evenly mixed with all the ingredients, about 1 minute more.
Add the sesame oil, toss once more, and transfer to a serving platter. Serve hot or warm.
KUNG PAO CHICKEN
This wildly popular dish has a longer ingredients list than many of the recipes in this book, but this is mostly a matter of measuring out the two seasoning mixtures. Once that’s done, there’s a bit of chopping and then you’re ready to cook up a speedy and spectacular dish. To prepare in advance, chop the chicken, stir up the marinade, and mix it with the meat. Cover the bowl and refrigerate it for several hours or as long as overnight. Then mix the sauce, gather the remaining ingredients, and cook. Classic recipes include Szechuan peppercorns, but if you don’t have them, it’s still a delicious dish.
FOR THE CHICKEN MARINADE
¾ pound boneless, skinless chicken breast
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon dry sherry or Shaoxing rice wine
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1 teaspoon vegetable oil
FOR THE SAUCE
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon dry sherry or Shaoxing rice wine
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar or Chenkiang vinegar
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon cornstarch
1 teaspoon salt
FOR COOKING THE CHICKEN
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
5 to 10 small dried hot red chiles or
2 teaspoons red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon Szechuan peppercorns, toasted and crushed (optional)
1 tablespoon coarsely chopped garlic
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh ginger
¼ cup coarsely chopped green onion
¾ cup roasted, salted peanuts
1 teaspoon Asian sesame oil
SERVES 4
To prepare the chicken: Chop it into bite-sized chunks, about 1 inch in diameter. In a medium bowl, combine the soy sauce, sherry, cornstarch, and vegetable oil. Stir to mix everything well, and then add the chicken, tossing to coat it evenly. Set aside for 30 minutes to 1 hour, or cover and refrigerate for up to 1 day.
To make the sauce: In a small bowl, combine the soy sauce, sherry, vinegar, sugar, cornstarch, and salt. Stir to dissolve the dry ingredients, and mix everything together well.
Prepare the remaining ingredients, and place everything by the stove, along with a serving platter for the finished dish.
To cook the chicken, heat a wok or a large, deep skillet over medium-high heat, and then add the vegetable oil. Swirl to coat the pan, and when it is hot but not smoking, add the chiles. Toss well for about 30 seconds, and then add the Szechuan peppercorns, if using. Cook for about 1 minute, until fragrant and shiny, tossing once or twice.
Scatter in the chicken and let it cook on one side for about 1 minute. Toss well, and then add the garlic, ginger, and green onion. Cook 1 to 2 minutes, tossing now and then, until the chicken has changed color and is cooked through.
Stir the sauce, and add it to the pan. Cook another minute, tossing often, and then add the peanuts and sesame oil. Toss once more, transfer to a serving platter, and serve hot or warm.
CHICKEN WITH CASHEWS
Made with chunks of chicken and celery tumbled with delectable cashews, this dish makes great party fare. It’s a fine potluck contribution as well if you fill a portable serving dish with rice or pasta and scoop your Chicken with Cashews right out of the hot pan as soon as it’s done. You can use chicken breast or thigh, or a combination of the two.
2 tablespoons dry sherry or Shaoxing rice wine
2 tablespoons water
1 tablespoon soy sauce
2 teaspoons cornstarch
½ teaspoon sugar
½ teaspoon salt
2 celery stalks
¾ pound boneless, skinless chicken breast or thighs, or a combination
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 teaspoons chopped garlic
2 teaspoons chopped fresh ginger
1 cup dry-roasted, salted cashews
3 tablespoons chopped green onion
SERVES 4
In a medium bowl, combine the sherry, water, soy sauce, cornstarch, sugar, and salt, and stir to dissolve the dry ingredients and mix everything into a smooth sauce.
Trim the celery stalks, discarding tops and ends, and pull away the top layer of strings. Cut each stalk in half lengthwise, and then crosswise into ½-inch pieces; you’ll need ¾ cup. Chop the chicken into big, bite-sized chunks, about 1 inch in diameter.
Heat a wok or a large, deep skillet over high heat. Add the oil and swirl to coat the pan. Add the garlic and ginger and toss well until they are shiny and fragrant, about 30 seconds.
Scatter in the chicken, spreading it out into a single layer. Cook undisturbed until the edges change color, about 30 seconds, and then toss well. Cook, tossing often, until most of the chicken has changed color.
Add the celery, and cook, tossing often, until the celery is bright green and the chicken is cooked through, 1 to 2 minutes more. Add the sherry mixture, pouring it in around the sides of the pan, and toss well.
Add the cashews and green onion. Toss to mix them in evenly and season well. Transfer to a serving plate and serve hot or warm.
LEMON CHICKEN
I love lemon chicken, but making a batter-fried restaurant-style version at home is too much mess and work. Quickly sautéed slices of chicken breast make for a delicious and doable home adaptation, with a bright-flavored sauce you can enjoy with other dishes as well. Since it takes several steps and is best served hot, this dish is one to make when you’ve got a little time or some helping hands, or best of all, both. Partially frozen meat is easiest to cut into thin slices, but don’t worry; just do the best you can and expect delicious results.
1½ cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons salt
½ teaspoon black or white pepper
1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breast
FOR THE LEMON SAUCE
2 tablespoons water
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1 cup chicken stock
1/3 cup sugar 2 teaspoons chopped fresh ginger (optional)
1 teaspoon soy sauce
½ teaspoon salt
1/3 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
FOR COOKING THE CHICKEN
About 1/3 cup vegetable oil
3 tablespoons thinly sliced green onion
SERVES 4
Combine the flour, salt, and pepper in a medium bowl, and stir with a fork or a whisk to mix everything well. Cut the chicken breast crosswise and on the diagonal, to make wide, thin pieces. Dip each piece of chicken into the flour to coat it well, and then gently shake off any excess. Arrange floured chicken pieces on a large plate and set by the stove.
To make the lemon sauce: Combine the water and cornstarch in a small bowl and stir well. In a medium saucepan, combine the chicken stock, sugar, ginger, if using, soy sauce, and salt. Bring to a gentle boil over medium heat, and stir to dissolve the sugar and salt and mix well. Stir in the lemon juice, and as soon as the sauce is boiling gently again, add the cornstarch. Cook, stirring often, as the sauce turns cloudy, then clear, and thickens to a shiny, glossy state, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat, cover, and keep warm while you prepare the chicken.
To cook the chicken, heat the oil in a large, deep skill
et over medium-high heat, until a pinch of flour dropped into the oil blossoms at once. Cook in batches, placing pieces of chicken in the oil (they should sizzle immediately), and leaving a little room between so you can turn them easily and avoid crowding the pan.
Cook until golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Turn and cook on the other side until golden and crisp, and cooked through, and then transfer the cooked chicken pieces to a serving platter as they are done. Cook the remaining chicken in the same way.
Pour the hot lemon sauce over the chicken, sprinkle with the green onion, and serve hot.
FIVE-SPICE ROAST CHICKEN
The marinade for this dish imbues the chicken with an inviting brown hue and a luscious sweet-and-salty flavor. Chicken legs and thighs come out particularly well when cooked this way, but you could also do a whole chicken cut up, or two game hens instead. This dish tastes wonderful right away, and makes a perfect picnic lunch the day after.
1/3 cup soy sauce
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 tablespoons dry sherry or Shaoxing rice wine
1 tablespoon chopped garlic
2 teaspoons chopped fresh ginger
1 teaspoon five-spice powder (see page 14)
1 teaspoon sugar
½ teaspoon salt
3 pounds chicken legs and thighs, or one whole chicken cut up
SERVES 4 TO 6
In a large bowl, combine the soy sauce, vegetable oil, sherry, garlic, ginger, five-spice powder, sugar, and salt, and stir to mix everything well and dissolve the sugar and salt.
Add the chicken pieces and turn to coat them evenly. Cover and set aside for 1 hour or as long as overnight.
To cook the chicken, heat the oven to 375°F. Arrange the chicken pieces on the rack of a roasting pan, or simply place them on a baking sheet with sides to catch the juices. Cook 25 minutes, and then remove from the oven to turn each piece over.
Continue cooking until the chicken is wonderfully and evenly brown and cooked through, about 45 minutes total.
Transfer to a serving platter and let rest for 10 minutes. Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature.
RED-COOKED CHICKEN
We adore this deeply flavored and colored braise with chicken thighs and legs, but you could use any combination of chicken pieces, bone in and skin on for maximum flavor and gorgeous hue. Probably called red-cooked because red is an auspicious color in Chinese tradition, the finished dish is in fact a handsome mahogany, in vivid contrast to the light-colored interior meat that’s visible when you cut into a piece of red-cooked chicken. You need only brown the chicken pieces and assemble the braising ingredients to get this dish cooking. Once it is bubbling away on the stove, simply enjoy the aromas and cook some rice or noodles with which to enjoy the fabulous sauce.
Quick & Easy Chinese Page 4