by Dan Barber
fed to fish, 156, 157
gizzards, 155, 219
overproduction of, 155–57
portioning and processing of, 150, 152, 154, 155
yellow, 149
Chicken: The Dangerous Transformation of America’s Favorite Food (Striffler), 148
chickpeas, 369
China, 156, 235
cholesterol, 169n
Christiansen, Guy, 324
chromosomes, 360, 408
Civil War, 348
clams, 224–25
Clause, Jean-Joseph, 109, 180
Clemson University Coastal Research and Education Center, 356–58, 377, 403
climate change, 196, 217, 218, 249, 313
clover, 63–64, 71, 358
Clover, Charles, 214–15, 219
cod, 218, 219, 234
coffee, 87, 183, 342
Coleman, Eliot, 30, 53–54, 58, 60, 65, 78–80, 90–93, 99, 384, 437, 445
combines, 51, 350
compost, 85, 88, 89
corals, 218n
cork, 174, 177n
corn, 2–3, 27, 34, 35, 38, 62–66, 74, 103, 245, 324, 344, 348, 350, 351, 358, 359, 360, 367, 395
at Blue Hill Farm, 3, 5, 20
Eight Row Flint, 1–2, 5–8, 18, 68, 136, 335, 343, 361, 377–79
grits, 348, 349, 350–51, 354, 373, 375, 380
Hopi Blue, 371, 378
liver and, 127–28, 162
polenta, 2, 6, 7–8, 16, 18, 68, 136, 335, 351, 375–76
Three Sisters planting strategy, 6, 378, 446
Wapsie Valley, 380
yields for conventional vs. organic, 366–67
Corn Belt, 35
Cornell University, 33, 384, 386
plant breeders at, 328, 387–89
corn sweeteners, 35
Corson, Juliet, 16
cotton, 348, 369n, 395
countercuisine movement, 340–41
Cowan, Thomas, 267
cowpeas, 358, 367, 372
cows, see cattle
crabs, 216
Crespo Sevilla, Diego, 294–300
crustaceans, 218n
cuisines, 15–16, 18, 21–22, 367–69, 378, 379–80, 431
countercuisine movement, 340–41
grande, 139
landrace, 377–78
nose-to-tail, see nose-to-tail cooking
nouvelle, 137–41, 149, 254, 259, 306
southern, 344–48, 373, 375
Daguin, Ariane, 127
D’Artagnan, 127
Darwin, Charles, 213
Davidson, Alan, 306–7
Davis, Donald, 95n
DDT, 239, 248n
dead zones, 216, 245–46
Deere, John, 44
degustation menus, 140
dehesa, 104–5, 124, 125–26, 128, 163–68, 170, 172–77, 180–82, 193, 196, 211, 233, 262, 269, 284, 330, 332, 423, 428, 430, 440, 441
De Jong, Walter, 388
Delmonico’s, 357
Dennett, Daniel, 339
Descartes, René, 268
diabetes, 9
Dirt: The Erosion of Civilizations (Montgomery), 72
diseases, 9, 95, 269, 364
degenerative, 97
heart, 169n, 269
diversity, 19–20, 43, 74, 103, 360, 360, 367, 368, 401, 422
dolphins, 215
Doñana National Park, 237, 238–39, 260–61, 263
Down and Out in Paris and London (Orwell), 138
Ducasse, Alain, 221
ducks, 110, 118
foie gras from, 110–11, 187–88, 192–93, 360
Dulany, Peggy, 13
Dust Bowl, 46–48, 50, 363
Dworkin, Susan, 365–66
Ecological Farming Conference, 31
ecosystems, 202, 247, 262
fragile, 201
ecotones, 202
edge effect, 201, 235
Edge of the Sea, The (Carson), 240
Egan, Timothy, 47
eggs, 147, 149
Egler, Frank, 88
Egypt, 146
Eight Row Flint corn, 1–2, 5–8, 18, 68, 136, 335, 343, 361, 377–79
Eisenhower, Dwight D., 145
El Campero, 283–94, 302
Ellis, Jon, 246
El Niño, 217
El Puerto de Santa María, 221–23, 228
emmer, 66–67, 333, 334, 335, 338, 343, 344, 358, 425
Empires of Food: Feast, Famine, and the Rise and Fall of Civilizations (Fraser and Rimas), 71
End of Food, The (Roberts), 153
End of the Line, The (Clover), 214–15, 219
Erie Canal, 39
Esca, 277, 315
Escoffier, Auguste, 137, 352
esters, 87
estuaries, 264, 266
Extremadura, 104–5, 120–21, 142, 165–66, 179, 194, 195, 431, 440
farmers’ markets, 10, 11, 103, 107, 329, 330, 406
farms:
midsize, 330, 332
self-sustaining, 427, 428
small, 103, 107, 329, 330, 410
farm-to-table, 9, 10, 12, 15, 17, 182, 284, 430, 431
Blue Hill and, 8, 9
chefs and, 11, 15, 139–40
Farm Winery Act, 326
feed conversion ratio (FCR), 235
Ferrer, Miguel, 148–49
Fertile Dozen, 30–31, 79, 89, 96, 427
fertilizers, 27, 41, 58, 63, 73, 74, 89, 93, 152, 265, 348, 364, 365
dwarf seeds and, 365
oceans and, 216
overfertilization, 58
wheat and, 45, 363, 366, 367, 399, 416–17
Field Guide to the Birds, A (Peterson), 248n
field peas, 348, 349, 352
fish, seafood, 11, 14, 113, 114, 209, 213, 217, 234–35, 251–59, 442
algae blooms and, 216, 287
anchovies, 292
awareness of new species, 272
bass, 236–37, 241, 242–43, 255, 256, 276–77, 285–86, 306, 307, 313, 314, 315, 318
Bouley and, 251–52, 256–59, 290
bruised, 226
buying in bulk, 253
chefs and, 218–20, 233, 236, 252, 260, 272, 279–81, 399–400, 442
chicken fed to, 156, 157
consumption of, 218–20, 253
cost of, 156, 280
eyes of, 222, 227, 230
fresh, 252–53
heads of, 234
Le Coze and, 254–56, 276, 279–80, 400
León and, 222–33
monkfish, 255, 256, 280
mullet, 286–87, 298, 306–8, 310–11, 313–14, 315, 316, 318–19
Palladin and, 277–80, 400
salmon, see salmon
sausages, 305–6, 307, 311, 315, 316
scallops, 278–79
sea bream, 231–32
shellfish, 229, 230, 315
shrimp, 216, 229–30, 241, 242, 245, 297n, 308
skate, 219, 254–55, 280
specialty market in, 279–80
squid, 257, 317
sushi, 204, 209–10, 211, 255–56
sustainability and, 210–11, 282
swordfish, 219, 280–81
tonaso, 226–27
trophic levels of, 218–19, 220, 442
trout, 442
tuna, see tuna
fish farming, see aquaculture
fishing industry, 213–16, 220, 253–54, 279
algae blooms and, 216
almadraba, 273–75, 282–83, 287–90, 293–302, 303, 304, 313, 316
bycatch and, 215, 229, 230,
305, 333
León and, 227–28
sonar in, 214, 274
specialty market and, 279–80
trawling in, 214–15
flamingos, 244–45, 249–50, 312
flavonoids, 87
flavor, 22, 98, 99, 374, 375, 384
blandness, 155n
breeding for, 389, 403
genes and, 403
phytonutrients and, 87
soil and, 85–90
sub-taste threshold and, 373
water content and, 403
yields and, 6, 402–3
Flavr Savr tomatoes, 385
flea beetles, 54
flounder, 219
flour, 36, 37, 38–41, 47, 51, 342, 395, 413–14, 417
consistency of, 410–11, 413, 415, 419–20
graham, 343–44, 354–55, 373
high-gluten, 416
shelf life of, 38, 374
white, 36, 39, 40, 43, 339, 354, 355
whole wheat, 29, 342
flour mills, 38, 419
foie gras, 111–12, 118–19, 123, 127, 133, 136, 141, 148, 162, 180, 181, 187, 188, 310
color of, 127–28, 149, 189
from ducks, 110–11, 187–88, 192–93, 360
from geese, 105–11, 119, 122, 132–34, 141, 145–46, 158–60, 162, 163, 169, 174, 180–87, 189–91, 193, 196, 221
Stone Barns experiment with, 183–91, 194–98
food as fuel, 380
food chain, 21
food preparation, time spent in, 153–54
food processing, 74–75
Ford, James, 85
fossil fuels, 365
Fourfold Path to Healing, The (Cowan), 267
Fowler, Cary, 365, 396n
fragile ecosystems, 201
Fraser, Evan, 71
Freedman, Paul, 141
French Laundry, 351
fruits, 35–36, 37, 94–96, 103, 149n
Fuente de Piedra, 249
Fulton Fish Market, 254
fungi, 91
anthracnose, 67
late blight, 382–85, 386–87
mycorrhizal, 91, 92–93
fungicides, 82–83, 87
Fussell, Betty, 155n
galinsoga, 58
García, Dani, 236
Gault, Henri, 139
geese, 105–6, 110, 118, 194
foie gras from, 105–11, 119, 122, 132–34, 141, 145–46, 158–60, 162, 163, 169, 174, 180–87, 189–91, 193, 196, 221
hawks and, 130, 245
Sousa and, 105, 111, 119, 121, 122–23, 126–34, 158–64, 168, 180, 183–84, 189, 193, 195–96, 198, 243–45, 249, 251, 310, 433
at Stone Barns, 183–91, 194–98
Toulouse, 196
wild, 131, 146
genes, 269, 360, 361, 401–2, 422
flavor and, 403
genetically modified foods, 385, 398
tomatoes, 385–86
wheat, 395–98
geraniums, 82–83
Gérard, Charles, 110
Ginor, Michael, 187
giraffes, 243–44
gizzards, 155, 219
Glass Onion, The, 372–76
global warming, 196, 217, 218, 249, 313
gluten, 340, 416
Gold, Jonathan, 8, 9
“golden” food, 149n
golf courses, 216
Gourmet, 8, 202–3, 205–12, 222
Gouze, Philippe, 203, 206
Graham, Sylvester, 343–44, 355
graham flour, 343–44, 354–55, 373
Grahm, Randall, 91
Grain Belt, 216
grains, 16, 33–37, 46, 74, 103, 156–57, 235, 236, 327, 332–33, 377, 378, 423, 443
barley, 327, 352, 367, 418, 437, 445
feeding to livestock, 27, 28, 66, 97, 114, 115, 117–19, 298, 327, 332, 333, 440
less desired, 327
organic, 29
rice, see rice
rye, 349–50, 352, 358, 437, 438
whole, 40, 339, 341
see also corn; oats; wheat
grande cuisine, 139
grasses, 44, 52, 53, 59, 173, 423
see also grains; weeds
Great Plains, 43, 49
greenhouse effect, 218
greenhouses, 82, 83
at Stone Barns, 13, 81, 84, 85, 88, 263, 317, 337, 445
Green Revolution, 362, 364, 367, 368, 369, 412
grits, 348, 349, 350–51, 354, 373, 375, 380
grouper, 219, 223
growing nature, 19, 180–81
growth hormones, 324–25, 326
Grunert, Alex, 334–36, 338, 340, 341, 343
Guachie, Marcel, 188
Guadalquivir River, 241, 242, 245–46, 264, 265, 267
Guérard, Michel, 138
Guide Michelin, 137
Gulf of Mexico, 216, 245, 264–65
Gussow, Joan Dye, 31, 96–97, 98
Haber, Fritz, 73, 75, 152
Haber-Bosch process, 73, 75
halibut, 218, 219
ham, 198
see also jamón
Haney, Craig, 13, 14, 113, 115, 116, 142–45, 148, 150, 160, 168–69, 183–85, 190, 191, 194–96, 198, 204, 207, 327, 438, 440–41, 443
Harder, Jules, 357
Harttung, Thomas, 31, 89
Hatch Act, 386
hawks, 130, 245
heart, as pump, 266–67
heart disease, 169n, 269
Henley, Marcus, 192, 193
herbicides, 53, 84–85, 248n
genetically modified foods and, 395–98
Roundup, 395–98
2,4-D, 26
weed resistance to, 27
Hess, Karen, 38, 345
Hi-Bred Corn Company, 362
homeostasis, 267
Homestead Acts, 44, 45, 386
Hoover, Floyd, 324
Hopi Blue corn, 371, 378
Hopi nation, 371
Hoppin’ John, 352, 431–32
hormones, 324–25, 326
Horst, Eddie, 324
Howard, Albert, 70, 75–77, 83–84, 88
Hubbell, Sue, 240
Hudson Valley Foie Gras, 111–12, 187–88, 190, 192–94
humus, 70, 76
hunger, 365–66, 367, 369n
Huxley, Thomas Henry, 213, 214
hybrid vigor, 110, 360
Ibérico, 176
jamón ibérico, 104, 124, 125, 128, 162–65, 169–73, 176n, 177, 179, 182, 183, 198, 283, 291, 306, 332, 423, 441
Ikerd, John, 97–98
India, 363, 365
Industrial Revolution, 110
Ingham, Elaine, 87
ingredient sourcing on menus, 276, 281, 411
insecticides, 87
DDT, 239, 248n
insects, 54–55, 58, 99n
International Commission for the Conservation of Atlantic Tunas (ICCAT), 295–96
International Culinary Center, 252
International Maize and Wheat Improvement Center (CIMMYT), 363
Iroquois, 6
irrigation, 365
Isenbarger, Jill, 440
Isla Mayor, 237
Jackson, Wes, 41–43, 45, 49–50, 92, 175–76, 331–33, 364, 366, 429–30
Land Institute, 41
Jalisco, 156
Jamison, John, 116–18, 162, 278
Jamison, Sukey, 116–17, 278
jamón, 164, 284, 304
ibérico, 104, 124, 125, 128, 162–65, 169–73, 176n, 177, 179, 182, 183, 198, 283, 291, 306, 332, 423, 441
Jaradat, Abdu
llah, 359
Jean-Louis at the Watergate, 107, 115, 117
jellyfish, 272
Johnson, Peter, 369n
Jones, Hannelore, 399
Jones, Steve, 390–409, 410, 412–23, 430, 434–35, 439–41, 444
Bread Lab of, 414–23, 430, 434
Jones Fife wheat, 391, 392, 406–7
Kansas, 49, 400, 423
Kaye, Adam, 441
Keillor, Garrison, 114
Keller, Thomas, 115, 155, 180, 351
Kennedy, Robert, Jr., 33
King Lear (Shakespeare), 19
Kips, Willem, 31
Kirschenmann, Fred, 268–69, 330
Klinkenborg, Verlyn, 51
La Brea Bakery, 341, 411
Lahey, Jim, 339, 411
Lakeview Organic Grain, 326–27, 330–31, 333
lamb(s), 13–14, 15, 35, 112–18, 123, 144, 153, 154, 162, 278, 304
chops, 13, 14, 15, 112, 204
land:
Leopold’s definition of, 186
tierra concept, 163, 167, 173, 177–78, 211
land ethic, 178, 181, 211–12, 305
“Land Ethic, The” (Leopold), 177–78
land-grant system, 386–87, 396, 397, 406, 420, 421
Land Institute, 41
landrace farming, 358–60, 361, 364, 366–70, 372, 377–78, 380, 392, 402, 404, 408
Larding the Lean Earth (Stoll), 48–49
La Serena, 173, 179
late blight, 382–85, 386–87
Laverstoke, 30, 33, 79, 89, 426–27, 428
law of return, 70, 71
Le Bernardin, 113, 254, 256, 276, 279, 315
Le Coze, Gilbert, 113, 114, 209, 254–56, 276, 279–80, 315, 400
Le Coze, Maguy, 254, 255
Le Louis XV, 221
León, Ángel, 222–33, 234, 271–75, 277, 280, 282–83, 287, 289, 297n, 301, 302, 303–14, 315–19, 333, 432–33, 442–43
Aponiente, 221–33, 234, 236, 272, 301, 303–5, 311, 315–17
León, Carlos, 223
Leopold, Aldo, 10, 52, 177–78, 181, 186, 211–12, 247, 305, 447
lettuce, 89
Regina dei Ghiacci, 206–7
levantá, 288
levante (wind), 284–88, 299, 303
Lexi 2 wheat, 390
Liebig, Justus von, 72–73
Life of the Skies, The (Rosen), 249
Lincoln, Abraham, 44
lions, 314
liver, 153
corn feed and, 127–28, 162
foie gras, see foie gras
Louis XVI, King, 109, 180
Lucio del Bocón, 245
lupins, 128
mackerel, 226, 230
MacLeish, Padraic, 112, 113, 115, 116, 118, 123, 184, 185, 190, 191
Magdoff, Fred, 86
Maine, 405
Making of a Counter Culture, The (Roszak), 340
Málaga, 249–50
malt, 418
Mangold, Scott, 421–22
Manning, Richard, 49
manure, 64, 70, 71–72, 79, 173, 427, 439–40