Title:
The UnDutchables
Author:
Colin White & Laurie Bouckle
Year:
1995
Synopsis:
Nothing is more interesting than to see yourself through the eyes of an outsider. The UnDutchables is a very revealing treatise about us…This book in a very exact yet funny way discloses all the secrets about us that we really would have preferred to keep to ourselves. In other words, they hang out the dirty linen…
The authors have clearly looked much farther than wooden shoes and tulips…Even the way we stir sugar in our coffee has not escaped their notice and not until you read this book from cover to cover do you understand how much our behavior, that we consider as completely normal ourselves, borders on insanity for a non-Netherlander.
Everything in it is true, and only the humor with which it is written makes it at all palatable for us.
A fine little work, then, that will be around for years.—Johannes van Dam, Het Parool, May 26, 1990
Preface
VERSION 3.1—the third edition(updated)…
This latest version of The UnDutchables has been updated to incorporate recent events and changes, including the 1995 floods.
The book presents an impressionistic view of a certain side of the Dutch as it is often perceived by visitors to Holland. It has brought laughter and joy to thousands of readers, and that is one of its primary objectives.
This is not a dry, scholarly work. It is not possible to cover every province, town, custom and aspect of life in such a short work—such information is available elsewhere. We have avoided such an approach as it would have stifled the character of the book. Some readers may resent what they perceive to be a stereotypic image, but all people form such images (to some extent) when they travel or reside abroad. Fortunately, most readers have been able to appreciate the humour and exaggeration without feeling offended.
Although much of the book clearly concerns contemporary Dutch life, certain national traits have been around for centuries. These have been commented upon in works dating back to the 1600’s. We believe the Dutch will still be renowned for certain classic characteristics for many generations to come.
Similarly, the book is biased towards the urban environment. However, in traveling through the countryside, one finds many of the same things, perhaps in a more peaceful setting and at a slower pace, but fundamentally the same traits: cosy homes; coffee rituals; guilder worshipping; moralizing; criticizing; obsession with weather; commercial cunning; and so forth.
In closing this Preface, we would like to thank all those who have provided ideas, suggestions and anecdotes, with special mention to Brendan Bartram, Eva Goetschel, Anton van Hooff, Jackie Lubeck, Nijgh & Van Ditmar, Radio Nederland Wereldomroep, Wim Stortenbeek, Jaap Vossestein and Walter Wynbelt.
Colin White & Laurie Boucke, August 1995
Foreword
The fact that a third edition of The UnDutchables makes its appearance within three years after the introduction of the first edition proves that the book is a success in the wide circle of its readers.
The authors, both of Anglo-Saxon origin, have lived a good many years in the Netherlands and, as many foreigners, have been both surprised and astounded by our queer habits and customs, to such an extent that they have laid their impressions down in this monograph.
In this book, the Dutch find themselves confronted with a kind of mirror, and it hardly calls for surprise that a few of my fellow countrymen have reacted in a negative way to what they experience as ‘undue criticism.’ Nevertheless, most of the contents of the book are based on sound observations and the general tenor is never far away from the truth, although sometimes described in a somewhat caricaturistic way.
This third edition has been improved in a good many ways. The drawings have been refined, as compared with former editions, and quite a few photographs have been added. A number of new subjects has been brought in for description such as national dishes. The authors are keen observers: Did any ‘cloggy’ ever realize that his way of peeling fruit is quite different from that of foreigners?
In a new section on the relationship between wealth and the hidden Dutch conscience, the authors have not hesitated to study the current literature on this subject and worked themselves through the bulky volume of Simon Schama on this particular aspect of the Dutch attitude.
But not all additions in the third edition are dead serious: The reader will experience a lot of fun in the description of a Dutch birthday party, and the average Dutchman will all of a sudden realize how tedious and narrow-minded some of his customs are!
The addiction to coffee is aptly illustrated (and with a lot of humour) in the description of the result of one of our famous coffee contests, and the final judgments on some of these cups are really laughter-raising.
The chapter on children’s upbringing might come as a bit of a shock to the Dutch, but isn’t it really time to realize that we do overspoil the little brats, far more than in most other countries? This chapter in former editions has been misinterpreted by some people as ‘hate against children’ on the part of the authors, but I think that it is love and affection for children which moved the authors to lay down their impression of what they see as doing harm to our offspring, rather than trying to give them the benefit of a well-balanced upbringing.
A list of intrinsic idioms is developed further in this edition and might be particularly useful for people of Anglo-Saxon origin who would have to live in the Netherlands for a couple of years. Finally, an index has been added and comes in handy for quickly glancing through a subject in which one might have particular interest.
A last word about the writers themselves: Having moved to the USA a few years ago, the authors find it difficult to keep abreast of all the turbulent events in our ever-changing Dutch society. They are avid readers of some of our Dutch newspapers and magazines and are in perpetual touch with a number of Dutch friends, asking them continuously for closer explanations on all kinds of subjects in our daily press. I feel privileged to belong to this group of advisors and not only hope, but certainly expect this further elaborated and enriched version of former editions to be as successful as its predecessors.
To my fellow countrymen I should like to say: Try not to be hurt by remarks on a pattern of behaviour that seems to be so completely normal to us, but in fact is sometimes quite out of this world when seen through foreign eyes!
Dr. W. Stortenbeek
Apeldoorn, Holland
September 1992
Chapter 1
INTRODUCTION
the way the text books sell it
Holland occupies less than one percentof the earth’s surface…Its airlinecovers the rest.
—KLM Royal Dutch Airlines advertisement, 1993
There
A country (often called Holland) in western Europe bordering on the North Sea, with Belgium on its southern frontier and Germany on its eastern flank; official language, Dutch; capital, Amsterdam; seat of government, The Hague; population (1997), 15.8 million.
Them
The area was occupied by Celts and Frisians who came under Roman rule from the 1st century BC until the 4th century AD and was then overrun by German tribes, with the Franks establishing an ascendancy during the 5th-8th centuries. During the Middle Ages it was divided between numerous principalities. The northern (Dutch) part (part of the Habsburg Empire) revolted in the 16th century against Spanish attempts to crush the Protestant faith and won independence in a series of wars lasting into the 17th century, becoming a Protestant republic. The southern part was absorbed into the Spanish Habsburgs and then in 1713 into the Austrian Habsburgs. Prior to wars with
England and France, the country enjoyed great prosperity and became a centre of art and scholarship as well as a leading maritime power, building up a vast commercial empire in the East Indies, South Africa and Brazil. In the 18th century it sharply declined as a European power. In 1814 north and south were united, but the south revolted in 1830 and became an independent kingdom (Belgium) in 1839. Luxembourg gained its independence in 1867. The Dutch managed to maintain their neutrality in World War I, but were occupied by Germany in World War II. The post-war period has seen the country turn away from its traditional dependence on agriculture, although agriculture is still an important part of the economy. In 1960, large quantities of natural gas were discovered in the north; the ensuing wealth helped the Dutch mold their country into a ‘super’ welfare state and emerge as a key figure in the new-look United Europe. In 1994, a liberal ⁄socialist⁄environmentalist government took office, opening the dikes even further to a flood of progressive pampering.
NOTE…The authors acknowledge ‘The Oxford Reference Dictionary,’ 1986, for much of the information contained in this chapter.
Chapter 2
GETTING ACQUAINTED
Most people only get to visit great works of art…The Dutch get to live in one.
—KLM Royal Dutch Airlines advertisement, 1988
There
Do not be surprised if one of your first impressions is of being in doll-house country. Everything is small, crowded and cramped: houses, streets, shops, supermarkets, parks, woods, cars, etc. Holland is the third most densely populated country in the world (after Bangladesh and South Korea), and its inhabitants have mastered the art of using the centimetre to its fullest.
This ability and talent has arisen, of course, from the fact that much of the country consists of land reclaimed from the sea. And the reclaiming continues even today.
On an international flight, when the pilot announces that you are flying over Holland, don’t blink! You’ll miss it—it’s that small. You can, in fact, cross the whole nation by car in three hours.
For those of you arriving by plane from distant lands, a word of advice. Having entered the country and adjusted to the barometric pressure prevalent below sea-level (jet-lag withstanding), you’ll undoubtedly want to view the windmills, tulips, cheese markets and canals. Water and horizontal hills abound. So do sex shops. And, yes, you’ll see your share of wooden shoes and Frisian cows. These tourist attractions can be exhausted within a day or two.
If you expect to find delicious national food or the exotic, forget it. If you like wide, open spaces or a little solitude in nature, this is not the country for you. There are no large forests or wide expanses of land. When walking in the woods, dunes or on the beach, you have the feeling that millions have trod wherever you place your feet. They have. Can this be the stuff that inspired Rembrandt and Van Gogh?
Them
The inhabitants of this small strip of ex-seabed are not lacking in self-esteem, as reflected in literary titles such as ‘And the Dutch created the Netherlands’ (En de Nederlanders Schiepen hun Eigen Land) or ‘Holland—The New Atlantis Risen.’ They are bursting with dikes, freedom, liberalism, independence, equality and political beliefs (Holland boasts at least 29 parties), as will be demonstrated in the ensuing chapters.
The Dutch appear a friendly lot: kind, polite and helpful to tourists. They love to talk about their country and to provide any directions or information you may require. Their fascination with things foreign—products, attitudes, ideas, customs, languages, etc.—is impressive and flattering. The Dutch reputation for tolerance is all too apparent to the foreign visitor. But do not let this image fool you—it changes drastically if you stay long enough to be regarded as PART OF THE SCENE.
The longer you stay, the deeper you sink into it. The dark cloud of disapproval descends as your comrades of the Lowlands constantly criticize what they consider to be unfavourable situations beyond their borders. There is no relief from this moralizing, despite the fact that similar or even worse situations often exist within their own kingdom. Do not take the onslaught personally. You will soon discover that the Dutch reprimand is not reserved for foreigners alone. The natives thrive on shaking their fingers at and scolding each other.
They also seem to be caught up in a cycle of endless envy. They cannot free themselves from feelings such as, ‘If you are sitting, then 1 should be sitting, too!’ They are extremely jealous of each another’s possessions and keep a constantly updated mental inventory of what their neighbours, relatives and colleagues have. But they are also a very giving people when it comes to charities and other causes. They are world famous for their universal humani-tarianism, and exercising this particular type of generosity gives them much peace of mind.
They always speak their mind and ask what most foreigners consider to be probing questions about one’s personal life. Their directness gives many the impression that they are rude and crude—attributes they prefer to call ‘openness.’ You can put it to the test by discussing intimate and shocking topics with them that you would never dare speak about with any other nationality. What may strike you as being blatantly blunt topics and comments are no more embarrassing or unusual to the Dutch than discussing the weather.
This frankness is linked to their reputation for being opinionated and obstinate. When they believe in something, they will stubbornly adhere to their principles through thick and thin, unless and until they are ready to change their mind of their own accord. When necessary, they adopt and maintain a firm national resolve to ‘never again’ let certain tragedies recur.
Over the centuries, they have developed and refined a sort of sand psychology which manifests itself in many walks of life. Since most of the country is built on sand, the use of lego-roads is widespread. Streets are paved with bricks which are merely pounded into place. The brick surface has no graded foundation layers. This construction method, combined with the Northern European climate, guarantees maximum inconvenience for motorists, cyclists and pedestrians: dips in the roads, sinking tramlines and a multitude of closed roads while re-flattening/re-laying operations are in progress.
The Dutch proudly defend the character of their roads. Workmen need only lift up the requisite amount of bricks to reach the work area. One wonders if they would need to lift up any bricks at all if they constructed the roads properly in the first place.
A cloggy’s prize possession is The Bicycle. It may be a 15-speed, ultra-light, racing model or a rusty old third generation job, honourably handed down through the family. Hence the country is infested with the contraptions.
The Dutch are masters of innovation, although some visitors may never identify or appreciate the results. Innovation and experimentation are constantly applied to a revolving process of refinement of social issues, agriculture and industry, and as urban and rural development. Sometimes the experiments are a success; sometimes they fail. Either way, new experiments will replace the gains or losses sooner or later.
Hollanders enjoy one of the highest standards of living and rank among the leaders of longevity. Their quality of life is excellent, although this fact is often disguised by constant complaining about the same.
They are supreme masters of things connected with water: bridges, dikes, canals, rain, etc. They have had to constantly defend their sand against natural elements with an elaborate survival system, as they WILL NOT HESITATE to tell you. This defence has been far more successful than that employed against many a human foe, as they will NEGLECT to tell you.
They have been a seafaring people for centuries on end. Along with this comes their love of travel, foreign cultures and bartering. There is nothing more exciting or satisfying for a Dutch person than to make a good deal. They have all the patience and time one can imagine if it means earning or saving a guilder or two. They are also world trade experts, ranking first place (worldwide) in tonnage at Rotterdam (with Hong Kong second) and first place in dairy and poultry export, while their agricultural export value ranks s
econd in the world. Rotterdam also boasts of being the world’s first fully automated container port.
Perhaps it’s the age-old connection between water and cleansing/purification that drives them to it. Many of them are pathologically obsessed with a form of cleanliness which logically has little connection with practical hygiene. This is especially true of the older generation. It seems the older they grow, the cleaner everything must be.
It should be noted that the older generation appears to be exempt from much of what follows in this book. Although they are still in full possession of their Dutchness, it does not manifest itself as intensely as before. Perhaps after 60+ years, they are finally prepared to hand the baton to their heirs. Or it may be that most of the elderly have suffered at least one period of extreme hardship, such as having lived under the occupation of a genocide-obsessed Drittes Reich (Third Reich), which permits them to…
View the world with a more worldly view.
Chapter 3
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Holland is not a bad place to eye up all sorts of mass transit electric rail traction developments.
—Paul J. Goldsack, Mass Transit, 1985
In addition to the national train service, Holland, like most M countries, utilizes regional bus companies to provide for local public transport. Larger urban areas also have tram systems, and Amsterdam and Rotterdam have a metro train service. The public transport system is excellent. It is efficient, modern and comfortable. There are also ample taxis which can be expensive, especially over longer distances. All other forms of public transport are reasonably priced, if you know the rules of the game. If you don’t, look forward to a frustrating and expensive experience.
Tickets
1995 - The UnDutchables Page 1