Midnight in Siberia: A Train Journey into the Heart of Russia
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state-run businesses in, 49, 239–40
as superpower, 20, 265
survival in, 67–68
terror in, 59, 166–69, 222, 265
train travel in, 44–50
travel restrictions in, 236
U.S. relations with, xiii, xiv, xvi, 20, 45, 132, 240–41, 271
U.S. summits with, 20
see also Russia
Space Shuttle, 157
stability, 14, 27, 29, 35–36, 51, 67, 96, 182–83, 189, 226, 246, 265, 267–69, 278–79, 283–84, 287
Stalin, Joseph, 46–48, 68–69, 89, 107, 166–69, 171, 208, 235, 263–68, 272, 283–84
Stanford University, 281
state-run businesses, 49, 239–40
status, 30–31
steel industry, 80, 190
Stepanova, Yekaterina, 270
stereotypes, 51, 68, 109–10, 190
Stewart, Jon, 192–93
Stolby Nature Reserve, 245–51
Stroganova, Ella, 82
subway, 26
suitcases, 25, 35, 52, 121, 187–88, 189, 252, 276
superpowers, 20, 265
superstitions, 38–39, 83–84, 91
Supreme Court, Russian, 118
survival, 67–70, 82, 86–87, 93–95, 123, 130, 142–43, 157, 182–83, 187–88, 201–3, 207, 222–23, 233–34
Sveta, 277
Sweden, 249
synagogues, 272, 273
Syria, xv
Tahoe, Lake, 255
tanks, 190, 193
Tatiana (psychologist), 138–39, 151
Tatiana (train companion), 214, 220
taxicabs, 25, 67, 78–79, 90, 94, 127, 165, 233–34, 245–52, 255, 256, 259, 275
tea, 45, 199, 205, 212, 254–55
Tears for Fears, 240
television, 178, 228–29
tenants, 84–85
terror, 59, 166–69, 222, 265
terrorism, 44, 66–67, 81, 87, 89, 94
Thailand, 70, 282
third class, 30–31, 55, 64, 98–102, 189, 212–13, 244–45, 274
tickets, bus, 122–23
tickets, train, 28–32, 44, 48–51, 53, 64, 72–73, 92, 98, 127, 209, 253
timetables, 28, 121–22, 189
titan (water cauldron), 213
Tolstoy, Leo, 8, 14, 20
torture, 115–20, 122
tourism, 246–47, 255–56
tractor factories, 200
traffic jams, 25–26, 28, 35, 192
transit visas, 189–90, 209, 210, 217–18, 227
transit zones, 189–90, 209
Trans-Siberian Railway, ix
author’s first trip on, 10–11, 15, 17, 26, 44, 95, 159, 234–35, 275
coal heating for, 54, 162, 213
compartments on, 53–55, 63, 72, 98–99, 210–11, 231–32, 244–45, 252–53
conductors on, 52, 72–73, 164, 213, 252–53, 274
construction of, 46–48
daily routine for, 54–55
departures of, 28, 121–22
dining cars in, 99–100, 270–71
distance marker for, 274–75, 293
documents for, 44, 51–52
electric power for, 54, 213
end of line for, 274–75, 289
engines for, 54
first class in, 48–49
food on, 99–100, 101, 163–65, 172–73, 254–55, 270–71
historical importance of, 44–45, 46
itineraries for, 127, 247–48
lavatories on, 54, 72, 159
lower berths in, 63, 98–99, 101, 212–13, 231–32
luggage on, 25 35, 121, 168, 172, 187–88, 189, 252, 253, 259–60
main line of, 163, 209, 214
official name for, 29–31, 52–53, 65, 80
prices for, 48–49, 64, 98
second class in, 55, 64, 98, 216
security in, 73, 92–94
sleeping accommodations in, 216, 252–53
smoking in, 54, 55
third class in, 30–31, 55, 64, 98–102, 189, 212–13, 244–45, 274
tickets for, 28–32, 44, 48–51, 53, 64, 72–73, 92, 98, 127, 209, 253
train stations in, 27–32, 44–45, 92–94, 159–60, 188–89, 209, 212, 231, 272–73, 274
upper berths in, 31, 55, 64, 98–99, 101, 212–13, 245, 253
Tripoli, 235–36
troikas, 9
Trubetskaya, Princess, 222
Tsarnayev, Tamerlan, 66
tsvety (flowers), 83–84, 91, 107, 123, 125
Tsyvinski, Aleh, 97
tuberculosis, 148
Tucker, Robert, 15–16, 97, 202–3
Tunisia, 16
Turkmenistan, 145
Tver, 199–200, 203
Twitter, 243
“two Russias” concept, 15–16, 96–97, 202–3
Tyumen, 210, 289, 290–92
Udmurtia, Udmurts, 127–28, 134–50
Udmurt language, 143
Ukraine, xiii–xv, 32, 33–42, 60, 69, 104, 161, 288
Ulan-Ude, ix, 233–34
UNESCO, 258
United Nations, xv
United Russia Party, 228–30
University of California, Berkeley, 283
University of St. Thomas, 240
UPDK, 23–24
upper berths, 31, 55, 64, 98–99, 101, 212–13, 245, 253
Ural Mountains, 123, 127–28, 159, 162, 163, 173, 174, 183, 210
urban areas, 11, 97, 200–201, 234, 239–40
Uva, 128, 132, 141, 151–52
Uzbekistan, 254, 266–67
Uzbek language, 254
vacations, 64, 70, 122, 135–36, 255–56
valenki (boots), 233–34
Vasily, 128–33, 157
Vavilov Institute, 262–63
venik (birch twig bundle), 130, 131–32
Verkhnuya Vereya, 228–29
veterans, 280
Victory Day, 168
video cameras, 192–93, 228–29, 242
Viktor (train companion), 64, 70–71, 72
Viktor (villager), 196
villages, 195, 196, 210, 228–29, 238
visas, 76–77, 189–90, 209, 210, 217–18, 227
Vitaly, 291–92
Vladivostok, ix, 45, 48–51, 64, 212, 234–35, 244, 254, 270, 274–85, 289, 293
vodka, 3, 4, 32, 36–37, 38, 39, 41, 42, 55, 104, 110, 111, 129, 132, 160, 174, 238, 271
Volga River, 68, 102
Volgolag camp, 89–91
Volkonskaya, Princess, 223
wages, 40
Warner, Elizabeth, 38
Washington, D.C., 94, 225–26
Washington Post, xiv
water pollution, 255–58
wealth, 11, 12, 32, 48–49, 56–57, 96–97, 200, 203, 238–44, 269, 270
weather, 19, 35, 173, 211, 217, 233–34
wedding dresses, 219, 248, 251
wedding rings, 141–42, 231
Western culture, xiii–xv, xvi, 13–15, 33, 75, 105, 185, 270, 282–85, 286
Whisperers: Private Life in Stalin’s Russia, The (Figes), 67, 166, 203, 264–65
Wi-Fi, 217
wildfires, 228–29
wildlife preserves, 118–19
“window dressing,” 49
wines, 31, 57–58
women, 102, 104, 143–50, 178, 225–26, 245, 256
work days, 45
World Heritage sites, 258
World War II, 68, 104, 108–9, 143–44, 155, 168, 190, 203, 211, 262–63
Yakubovich, 287–88
Yantarny History Museum, 108
Yantarny massacre (1945), 108–9
Yanukovych, Viktor, 40–42
Yaroslavl, ix, 27, 30, 50, 64, 65–67, 68, 69, 70, 72–73, 77–91, 92, 101, 270
Yaroslavl airplane crash (2011), 65–67, 73, 77–91
Yaroslavl City Museum, 82
Yaroslavsky Vokzal, 27–32, 44–45, 274
Yeltsin, Boris, 69, 182, 268, 289
Yemanzhelinka, 195–2
09
Yiddish, 272
YouTube, 134, 242
Yovlev, Sergei, 65–67
Yukos, 49
Yuri, 233–34
Yuschenko, Viktor, 40
Zabello, Vassily, 262
Zakharov, Igor, 270–72, 273, 284
Zarbatova, Elizaveta, 134, 135, 139–40
Zetlin, Mikhail, 222–23, 287–88
Zhenia, 102, 105, 110, 111, 112, 113, 121, 270
Zima (Winter), 212
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