by Carey, James
Choosing energy options
Always be sure to ask for a window with a low-emissivity (low-E) coating or layer. Low-E windows are somewhat more energy efficient than windows without this coating.
Installing windows
There are two basic types of window installation:
Replacement windows that fit inside the frame of the old window and that are designed to fit on top of the exterior wallcovering: These types of windows can be installed in just a few minutes and are sealed with caulking. In our opinion, they’re the worst choice. They’re a leak waiting to happen. No matter how much these windows are caulked, some of them always leak.
Windows that are replaced in the same way as those that were originally installed: These windows look better, are more airtight, and usually don’t leak. This type of installation is three times as expensive as common replacement window installation, but it’s worth every penny. When a window frame is laced into surrounding siding paper and flashings, it doesn’t need caulking to prevent leaks. With this type of installation, caulking is an added precaution, not a waterproofing must.
Don’t try to save money on window installation. If you do, it’ll come back to haunt you. And when the window contractor tells you that his caulking is the best and that it’ll hold for 60 years, call him a liar and throw him off your property.
Getting In and Out: Maintaining Exterior Doors
An exterior door may be more energy efficient than a window, but a door can leak just as much water and air. As the moisture content changes in soil, your home shifts. Your doors also shift, creating gaps large enough for a dump truck to pass through. Finally, doors can deteriorate and need to be regularly painted or varnished.
If you get tired of the often backbreaking maintenance that you have to perform to keep your wood front door looking presentable, look into a fiberglass or steel door and frame. They look better longer, are far easier to maintain, and are more secure than most wood doors. Where steel is not nearly as energy efficient as wood, fiberglass is far more energy efficient than both steel and wood.
With doors, you need to regularly caulk the exterior trim even if the exterior door in question is protected by a covered porch. (Remember: Caulking is designed to keep out air as well as water.) Caulk the doorframe to the door trim and the door trim to the exterior wallcovering.
Fixing leaks between the threshold and door bottom
If you find moisture on the entry floor, it could be a leak between the threshold and the door bottom. The threshold is the wood or metal platform at the base of the doorway. It usually tilts outward (to shed water). The bottoms of most exterior doors are fitted with a metal door bottom, or shoe, that houses a rubber gasket. The door shoe is attached to the bottom of the door with screws driven through oblong slots. The oblong slots allow the door bottom to be adjusted up and down as the house — and consequently the door — shift up and down. When the door is closed, the rubber gasket is supposed to rest tightly against the full length of the threshold, preventing the influx of air and water.
No matter how successfully the door shoe and threshold work to prevent air and water leaks, there could be yet another problem: The threshold itself might leak. Exterior door thresholds are normally laid in a thick bed of caulk when they’re installed. Occasionally, the caulk shrinks, and the threshold leaks.
The only way to prevent future leaks is to remove the threshold screws and force caulking into the area between the threshold and the floor. Make sure to heat the caulking first so that it’ll flow freely — a hairdryer works great. When the caulking begins to ooze out of the edges, stop the caulking process.
Stopping air leaks with weatherstripping and sealant
An air leak in a doorframe is pretty common. You can eliminate leaks by adding foam sealant between the frame of the door and the frame of the house. Simply remove the wood trim that covers the joint between the doorframe and the wall. (Use a flat pry bar to slowly remove the trim to avoid damaging it.) With the door trim removed, fill the void with expanding spray foam. (Don’t worry if it expands beyond the surface; once it dries — in a few hours — you can easily remove the extra with a knife.) With the excess foam trimmed, replace the trim and touch-up paint as necessary.
Leaks also can occur between the door and the doorframe. Check the condition of your weatherstripping to make sure that it’s in good condition and fits tightly to the door when closed. If your existing weatherstripping is tattered and in bad shape, replace it. We like the kind of weatherstripping that consists of a rubber bead attached lengthwise to a strip of metal.
Here’s how to install new weatherstripping:
1. While standing outside the door, with the door in the closed position, gently press the rubber portion of the weatherstripping against the door and the metal strip against the frame — both at the same time.
2. While holding the weatherstripping in place, attach the metal section to the frame of the door with the nails or screws provided.
3. Oblong holes allow the weatherstripping to be adjusted back and forth during installation and later as house movement causes the door to shift.
Caring for wood and painting
Wood and water don’t mix. For that reason, exterior doors must be protected (painted or varnished) on a regular basis. Whether painting or varnishing, follow the same process:
1. Clean the door with TSP.
TSP not only cleans but also etches the finish, creating a surface that the new paint or varnish will readily bond to.
2. Lightly sand imperfections and clean the entire door with a clean, lint-free rag and paint thinner.
You can also use a tack cloth (a cloth with a sticky substance that readily collects dust). Tack cloths are great for pre-paint cleaning.
3. Prime bare spots on painted doors and follow with your chosen finish coat as soon as the primed areas are dry. And don’t forget to paint all four edges of the door — top, bottom, hinge side, and strike side. The paint will thoroughly seal the door and prevent it from swelling, which can cause the door to rub or stick.
There is no perfect paint for an exterior door. Some experts say varnish, others say marine varnish (used for boats), others say water-based paint, and others say oil-based paint. We think they all work well. As long as you regularly maintain your exterior doors, they’ll look good and last a long time.
Showing some love to your sliding glass doors
Did you ever reach out to open a sliding glass door, give it a tug, and feel like the door was pulling back? Unlike conventional exterior doors that swing on hinges, a sliding glass door moves on rollers. Little wheels made of neoprene or metal. Little wheels that wear out with use. Because the wheels on the bottom of a sliding glass door run in a threshold often filled with dirt and sand, it’s a wonder that they last more than a year or two.
If you have sliding glass doors, here’s how to convert loving care into lasting quality and a door that opens and closes as easy as pie: Keep them clean and lubricated, and adjust (or replace) the rollers as necessary. In the following sections, we explain how.
Keeping them clean and lubricated
Always keep the bottom track of the door clean and free of dirt and sand. In addition, regularly spray the track and the wheels with a waterless silicone spray. The absence of water in the spray reduces the chance for rusty wheels, and the silicone is a colorless lubricant that won’t stain or attract dust.
Adjusting (or replacing) the rollers as necessary
Just like other doors in the home, a sliding glass door can be knocked out of whack when the house shifts. Adjusting the wheels at the bottom of the door can compensate for this problem. Raising or lowering opposing wheels (located at the underside of each end of the door) can straighten a crooked door, allowing it to close parallel to the doorframe. Raising both wheels evenly can prevent the bottom of the door from rubbing on the track as the wheels wear out and become smaller.
For wheels that are adjustable, simply turn the adjace
nt screw. In most cases, you’ll find a hole at each end of the bottom track of the sliding door through which a screwdriver can be inserted. Use a pry bar to slightly lift the door to take pressure off the wheel while you turn the adjustment screw. If the door is lowered when you wanted to raise it, simply raise the door and turn the screw in the other direction. How’s that for getting the best bang for your sliding door buck?
Rollers that are completely worn out (or those that can’t be adjusted) can be replaced. Open the door about halfway, raise it 1 inch by forcing it into the top track, and, at the same time, pull out on the bottom. With the door out of the opening, snap the old rollers out and pop in a pair of new ones.
Depending upon the size (and weight) of the door, you may need a helper. Otherwise, you may be repairing a sheet of glass and your back.
Part III
Key Systems: Plumbing and HVAC
In this part . . .
Plumbers pride themselves on “bringing water to the world.” However, the fact is that plumbers run water and sewer lines at the very same time. We’ve always wondered what their saying would be if they didn’t do the water portion. Think about it!
In this part, we show you how to maintain your plumbing fixtures and trim, as well as your heating, ventilating, and air-conditioning (HVAC) systems. Each of these “mechanical” systems has moving parts, and, as such, all of them, from time to time, require attention. Don’t worry — we’ve got your back.
Chapter 7
Plumbing, Part I: Pipes, Water Heaters, Water Softeners, and More
In This Chapter
Preventing your water pipes from shaking, rattling, and rolling
Maximizing hot water — without having to wait
Making your water look, smell, and taste better
This chapter is devoted to the water delivery system — the water pipes, if you will. They’re the thin pipes that run through the walls, basement, and attic, carrying water in and out. In contrast, drain, waste, and vent pipes are fatter and are not pressurized (filled with water under pressure); you can find out about them in Chapter 9. For the most part, water pipes are hidden in walls, attics, crawl spaces, basements, and below cabinets, and they require little or no maintenance — that is until they spring a leak or become so clogged that they deliver little more than a trickle. In this chapter, we help you deal with both of these issues along with a few other challenges that may spring up from time to time. We also tell you about getting the most out of your water heater and water softener.
Don’t confuse gas lines with water lines. They sometimes resemble each other — gas lines are often made of the same material as water lines, but gas lines travel from the gas main to fuel-burning appliances such as a water heater, range, furnace, or gas-powered dryer.
Thar She Blows! Turning Off Your Water Main
If you don’t already know where your water main is, read this section, and then put down this book and go out and find it. Don’t wait until an emergency to hunt for your water main — if you do, the consequences could be catastrophic.
The water main is typically located in a precast concrete vault in the front yard near the curb or below the sidewalk in front of your home. It has a concrete or metal lid that you have to remove to access the main water valve. In general, you can remove the lid by wedging a screwdriver into the slit in the top of the lid. If the lid hasn’t been removed in a while, you may need a small pry bar to free it from the vault.
Turning off the main water valve can sometimes be quite a chore. Although most main water valves can be turned using an adjustable crescent wrench (also known among friends as a “knuckle buster”), using a water-main wrench is easier, more effective, and safer. You can find a water-main wrench at your local home center or hardware store.
To prevent the main water valve from becoming difficult to operate, periodically turn the valve on and off.
Replacing a Damaged Section of Pipe
If your hardwood flooring is buckled and your crawl space is like a steam bath or your drywall is damp and covered with mold, chances are good that your water pipes have sprung a leak. The bad news is that even a pinhole leak can cause lots of damage. The good news is that you generally won’t need to tear up walls and rip out vast amounts of plumbing pipes. You can save the day (and lots of time and money) by replacing a damaged section of pipe.
Copper pipe
To remove and replace a piece of copper pipe, you need these supplies:
A measuring tape
A pencil
A copper-pipe tubing cutter
Fine sandpaper or emery paper
Flux and a flux brush
Solder
A propane torch
A short length of replacement copper pipe and two couplings (Note: The total length of the replacement piece of pipe and the two couplings, when fully assembled, must be about 3/4 inch longer than the length of the damaged pipe.)
To remove the damaged piece of pipe, follow these steps:
1. Turn off the main water shut-off valve; then open a faucet at the lowest point in the home (either the ground floor or, if you have one, the basement) to allow the line to empty.
2. Use a measuring tape to determine the length of pipe needed and use a pencil to transfer the measurement to the pipe.
When figuring the overall length of the replacement piece of pipe, make sure to take into account the ends, which will slide into fittings.
3. Place the blade of the tube cutter over the mark on the pipe and gently clamp down on the pipe by turning the grip clockwise while rotating the cutter around the entire circumference of the pipe.
The cutter should move freely. Applying too much pressure too fast will bend the end of the pipe and damage the cutting blade. A bent end can result in a leak.
4. Use the deburring blade located at the end of the tube cutter or a small file to remove any burrs at the cut end.
5. Polish the outside of the end to be soldered with emery paper until it has a bright finish. Do the same with the interior of the fitting to which it will be joined.
This polishing cleans the material and provides the necessary tooth for a solid connection.
6. Apply a thin layer of flux to the outside of the pipe and the interior of the joint.
Flux is an acid that further cleans the pipe and causes the solder to flow more evenly.
7. Assemble the pieces and rotate the pipe in the fitting to distribute the flux and ensure a secure fit.
8. Solder the connection.
Soldering is not like welding, where the flame is placed directly on the connection. When soldering, the tip of the blue flame should be directed at the fitting, not the pipe, which allows the heat to radiate to the joint. When the flux begins to bubble, touch the end of the solder to one point of the joint and let capillary action do the work. The solder will automatically form a tiny bead around the joint. Remove the flame as soon as the solder begins to flow. Be careful not to move or jiggle the pipe or fitting for about a minute after the flame has been removed — you want to allow the solder enough time to cool.
9. When the soldering is complete, remove the excess flux by wiping off the pipe and fittings with a clean, dry cloth.
10. Turn the water back on and check for leaks.
Using a torch can be dangerous, especially if you’re not experienced in its use. So keep these safety tips in mind when soldering:
Wear safety glasses and gloves, as well as long pants and a long-sleeved shirt to avoid being burned by hot flying flux or solder.
Have plenty of ventilation, especially if you’re working in tight situations.
When working near wood, use a metal shield between the flame and the combustible surface to avoid causing a fire. Never use a torch around natural gas or gasoline, and always have a working fire extinguisher nearby.
Threaded pipe