by Carey, James
2. Use a caulking gun to spread a thin bead of the caulk into the crack.
3. Wipe the excess from around the crack with rubbing alcohol.
4. Coat the repair with primer.
Don’t skip this step or you’ll end up with a permanently goofy-looking, non-matching area.
5. Repaint, as necessary.
Don’t fill a crack with drywall joint compound or spackle. Spackle’s brittleness allows the crack to come back year after year, until you take a hammer and pound a dozen frustration holes in the wall. Or maybe that’s just how we would handle it.
Filling bigger cracks
Bigger cracks require a different kind of maintenance. Here’s what you need:
6-inch taping knife
10- or 12-inch taping knife
1 square piece of plywood or a plastic mud pan
Drywall joint compound
Drywall tape (paper or fiberglass)
220-grit sanding mesh and a drywaller’s sanding block
Here’s how to stop that crack dead in its tracks:
1. Clean out the crack so there are no loose “crumbs.”
2. Put a blob of compound on the plywood or mud pan.
This step makes it easy to load compound onto the knife.
3. Apply the tape to the wall, following the instructions that are applicable to the type of tape you’re using:
• Paper tape: Use the 6-inch taping knife to apply a light coat of the joint compound, about 1/8 inch thick, directly to the crack; immediately cover the compound with the tape, being sure to center the tape over the crack; and then use the knife to lightly wipe the tape into the compound and squeegee away any compound that squishes out. The joint compound acts as an adhesive to hold the tape to the wall. Do your best to prevent ripples and bumps by using smooth, even pressure as you squeegee. You can sand any mistakes later, but sanding is a lot of work.
• Fiberglass tape: Apply the fiberglass tape directly to the crack. (It has a self-stick backing.)
Fiberglass tape is a little thicker than paper tape, so it’s more difficult to make a completely invisible repair. We prefer the tried-and-true paper tape, and we think you’ll get better results with it. But some people are rebels.
If the crack is really crooked, cut the tape in short lengths so that you can follow the line as closely as possible.
4. Apply a thin coat of compound over the tape and smooth it with the 6-inch taping knife, making sure to feather the edges.
Let the patch dry completely (usually overnight).
5. Apply a second, smoothing coat using the 10- to 12-inch taping knife, again making sure to feather the edges.
Let the second coat dry completely.
6. Apply a third (and, with luck, final) coat using the 10- to 12-inch taping knife, again making sure to feather the edges.
Let the third coat dry completely.
7. Sand the patch until smooth.
8. Apply a coat of good-quality primer.
9. Paint to match.
Filling holes like a pro
Joint compound alone is not enough to fill any hole larger than a quarter. You’ve got to put something into the hole or onto it and then use compound to make it smooth and invisible.
Holes that are too large to fill with compound, but are no more than 4 or 5 inches across, can be patched with a precut stick-on patch and some joint compound. Use a peel-and-stick patch; made of stiff metal mesh, you can place these patches over the hole and cover them with two or three coats (or more) of compound. Here’s how:
1. Cover the hole with a stick-on patch.
Use scissors to trim the patch so that it’s about an inch larger than the hole.
2. Smear and then smooth the compound over the entire area, feathering the edges.
Here, less is more. A thin layer of compound at a time is the big secret. A thick layer is difficult to sand, shows up on the wall as a bump, and may develop cracks.
3. Let the compound dry completely, and then sand it lightly.
4. Smooth a second layer of compound over the patch, and let it dry completely.
Finish the project with a third coat of compound and allow it to dry completely. A fourth coat or “touch-up” coat may be required for an invisible patch.
5. Sand, prime, and paint.
Holes that are too big for a metal patch require a slightly different technique. For these holes, you have to make a patch using a chunk of drywall. The easiest way to make this kind of repair is to use drywall clips. These little metal wonders straddle the edge of the hole and create a series of little “shelves” along the back edge of the hole, providing screw-backing for a cut-to-fit patch. Follow these steps:
1. From a piece of scrap drywall, cut a square or rectangular patch large enough to completely cover the hole.
2. Hold the patch over the hole and trace its outline with a pencil.
3. Use a utility knife or drywall saw to cut away everything inside the penciled outline.
Watch out for wires and pipes!
4. Install drywall clips on all sides of the hole (no more than 8 inches apart), and secure them using the screws provided with the clips.
5. Insert the patch into the hole, and drive screws through the patch into the clips.
6. Snap off the temporary tabs of the clips (the ones that extend beyond the face of the wall).
7. To complete the patch, follow the finishing process for a smaller patch (see the “Repairing small cracks” section, earlier in this chapter).
With larger patches the only difference is that you have to apply the joint tape on all four joints of the patch (top, bottom, and sides).
Re-creating texture
If your walls have a textured surface, you need to re-create that texture on the patched area. Here’s how:
For a swirly finish: Place blobs of compound evenly throughout the patched area, and then swirl (what did you expect?) a damp sponge through the blobs until the area is evenly covered. Try to duplicate the swirls on the rest of the wall. You can use almost any implement that will duplicate the original pattern (a drywall knife, a paintbrush, a roller).
For a flattened-bumps finish: Use spray texture in a can. Simply spray on the texture, and then use one of several spray-tip adjustments to apply a light, medium, or heavy pattern. Wait a few minutes and use a drywall knife to slightly flatten the bumps. You can also use a portable pump for larger areas. Don’t rush — wiping the bumps when they’re too wet will completely flatten them, and you’ll have a mess.
For a bumpy finish: Follow the procedure for the flattened-bumps finish, but omit the flattening step.
Practice your texturing technique on a scrap piece of cardboard, plywood, or drywall. You only get one whack at the real thing.
If you can’t find drywall clips, there’s another way to fix a cantaloupe-size cavity. Just follow the preceding steps, but instead of using clips, simply use a piece of wood. Use the same principal as the clip method; this time, though, attach a narrow strip of wood to the back of the hole in the wallboard at each side of the opening (two sides will do). Drive screws through the existing drywall and into the wood strip to create the needed backing. Half the plywood is held behind the drywall while the other half is exposed, acting as backing for the patch.
Tackling truss uplift
If your home has been plagued by constant cracks at several joints where the walls and ceiling meet, then you may have more than a simple drywall-patching problem. You may have truss uplift. Truss uplift results when moisture content differences exist between the upper (rafter) and lower (ceiling joist) cords of wood trusses (see Figure 11-1).
Figure 11-1: Truss uplift can cause gaps between walls and ceilings.
Moisture content differences are typical when one cord is cold and the other cord is warm. For example, the bottom cord of a truss surrounded by a well-insulated attic will be warmer than its cold rafter counterpart. The expansion of the top cord of a truss exerts an inward force on the bottom c
ord, which causes it to bow upward and lift away from the tops of interior partitions (hence, the term truss uplift).
There is no surefire means of preventing truss uplift. You can, however, eliminate the cracks at the ceiling-to-wall connection once and for all by removing all the ceiling drywall fasteners within 18 inches of the adjacent interior partition from each of the trusses. Simply use a wood block and hammer from within the attic to tap the ceiling wallboard away from the bottom cord of each truss — first on one side and then on the other — until the drywall is freed from its fasteners in that first 18 inches. With the wallboard free of the fasteners and “floating,” you can repair the ceiling-to-wall crack like any wallboard crack (see “Filling bigger cracks,” earlier in this chapter).
If for some reason the problem continues — even on a limited basis — we suggest installing a crown mold that is fastened only to the walls and not to the ceiling. Thus, movement can still occur, but the decorative trim conceals any seasonal cracks.
Putting the stop on nail pops
Nail pops are nail-head bumps or crescent-shaped cracks in the wall or ceiling. They occur when nails work loose, literally popping out through the surface of the drywall. Unfortunately, they happen for as long as you own your home. If you get a nail pop, you need to fix it.
You can find nail pops (and other defects) by shining a bright light at a shallow angle to the wall. Set a floor lamp with a 100-watt bulb about a foot from the wall in question, and remove the lampshade. Voilà! You’ll be amazed at how the nail pops pop out at you.
To fix a nail pop, you need the following tools:
Hammer
Drill or driver
Nail set (or large nail)
15/8-inch drywall screws
15/8-inch drywall nails
6-inch taping knife
Drywall joint compound
Fine-grit sandpaper
Paint
Paintbrush
Here’s how you do the repair:
1. Drive new drywall screws into the wall stud or ceiling joist at least 2 inches away from, and on either side of, the popped fastener.
The screws should pull the drywall tight against the framing, and the screw heads should slightly dimple into the drywall. Don’t depend on the screws to draw the drywall tightly against the framing. Here you must use your free hand to press and hold the drywall firmly against the framing, and then install the screws.
2. Using the hammer and nail set, drive a new nail immediately adjacent to the existing one.
Trying to remove the old nail can cause additional damage; resetting it minimizes the work. Try to nail the new nail into the same hole as the old one. Part of the head of the new nail will overlap the head of the old nail. Use the nail set to slightly recess the new nail (about @@bf1/16 inch). The head of the new nail, combined with the adjacent screws, will prevent the old nail from slipping out again.
3. With the 6-inch taping knife, apply a smooth, flat coat of compound over the dimpled heads of the new fasteners and the hole left by the old nail.
Let the compound dry completely.
4. Lightly sand the patch with the fine-grit sandpaper.
5. With the 6-inch taping knife, apply a second coat of compound.
6. Let the compound dry, and then lightly sand it again.
7. Prime and paint.
Plaster: More Trouble than You May Want
Older houses have plaster walls and ceilings with wood lath for a base. These thin strips of wood were installed on the wall framing with gaps between them, which the original plaster then filled, creating “keys” that hold the plaster in place.
If your plaster walls are in good condition, you can fix cracks and holes using patching plaster. But if your walls or ceilings are sagging and have big holes, you’ve got a big job ahead of you.
Fixing small cracks and holes
Cracks and tiny holes in plaster are slightly more difficult to patch than wallboard — not because the damaged area is harder to fill, but because the surface texture requires a more finite match. Refer to the “Repairing small cracks” section, earlier in this chapter, and take a little extra time to match the finish.
The major task in matching a plaster finish is to make sure to remove all excess caulk surrounding the crack and to apply a thick coat of texturing sand to the surface of the fresh caulking. You’ll find small boxes of texturing sand in the paint and patching section of your hardware store or home center. Start by putting on protective goggles. Then simply place a generous amount of texturing sand in the cupped palm of your hand and blow across it and onto the fresh caulk. The sand will adhere to the caulk and help disguise the crack. Finish the job by priming and painting the patch after the caulk has had a chance to set up over night.
Dealing with sagging and other big problems
As plaster ages, as leaks occur, and as the house shifts, the ceiling plaster can loosen and sag. Finding a sag is easy. You can confirm your diagnosis by pressing against suspect areas with the flat of your hand. If the plaster feels spongy or gives, a repair is in order.
If a sagging ceiling area is not fixed, it can suddenly let go, with a huge potential for damage and personal injury. Don’t wait for this to happen.
If the sagging is only slight, or covering a small area, you can reattach the plaster to the lath using long drywall screws fitted with plaster washers (thin metal disks through which drywall screws are threaded and then driven through the plaster into ceiling joists, wall studs, or lath). The screw/washer duo pulls the loose plaster tight against the framing, fixing the sag and stabilizing the area. The tricky thing is that you can’t just wail away with the drill or driver. You’ve got to go slowly, tightening each screw/washer a little bit at a time, all the while pressing firmly against the plaster with your free hand so that it’s gradually and evenly pulled snugly to the framing.
If the sagging is severe (more than 1 inch away from the lath), or if the sag covers a large area, the best solution is to pull down the old plaster and replaster, or cover it with drywall. Neither is an easy do-it-yourself project.
If your plaster is sagging in one place, it’ll probably sag in ten other spots sooner or later. Crumbling plaster tends to become a chronic problem. Why? Your plaster simply may have reached the end of its useful life. Or maybe the original plasterers were learning on the job (not good!), you’ve got hidden water damage or rot (trouble!), or your foundation is unstable (big trouble!).
Whatever the underlying cause, sags and serious cracks are problems that will probably keep cropping up. You could keep repairing them, but plastering is a difficult job best done by highly skilled, expensive professionals. Instead, you probably need to think about proactively covering or replacing your slowly crumbling plaster with a fresh layer of drywall. If you elect to do that, however, it may take some time to get used to having nice straight walls, flat ceilings, and 90-degree corners.
Interior Painting: Doing the Job Right
Nothing freshens things up like a new coat of paint. But, like anything, there’s a right way and a wrong way to do the job. In this section, we walk you through the steps to painting. Follow our advice, and you’re sure to be pleased with the results.
Preparing to paint
You’ve bought your paint, you’ve got new brushes and rollers, you’ve spread out the dropcloths, and you’ve opened up the stepladder. You’re ready to paint.
Whoa! Stop right there, Mr. or Ms. Inabighurry. You’ve forgotten the most important thing: surface preparation. The real secret to a beautiful, long-lasting paint job is getting the walls and ceiling really clean and perfectly smooth. The following tasks don’t take that much time, but they can make the difference between a long-lasting paint job and one that you have to redo long before you’re ready: