Freedom Climbers (Legends and Lore)

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Freedom Climbers (Legends and Lore) Page 30

by Bernadette McDonald

Annapurna (1987),

  Himalayan Crown in winter,

  Lhotse (1985),

  Manaslu (1986),

  partnership with Jurek Kukuczka,

  plan to climb 8000ers,

  Shishapangma (1987),

  Hall, Rob,

  Hawley, Elizabeth,

  259,

  Heinrich, Andrzej,

  Heinrich, Zyga,

  Cho Oyu (1985),

  Herrligkoffer, Dr. Karl,

  K2,

  Hillary, Edmund,

  Himmler, Heinrich,

  Hindu Kush,

  Hitler, Adolph,

  Houston, Charlie,

  Hreczuch, Tomasz,

  Humar, Tomaž,

  Imitzer, Alfred,

  International Women’s

  Year,

  Istebna,

  Jankowski, Bogdan,

  Jaruzelski, General

  Wojciech,

  Jesus Christ Superstar,

  Jura Mountains,

  K2, (1986),

  Kalmus, Piotr,

  Kammerlander, Hans,

  Kandinsky, Wassily,

  Concerning the Spiritual in Art,

  Kangchenjunga,

  Karakoram Mountain Range,

  Kathmandu,

  Katowice,

  Katowice Mountain Club,

  Katowice Steelworks,

  Khumbu Valley,

  Koh-e-Bandaka,

  Koh-e-Mandaras,

  Koh-e-Shkhawr,

  Koh-e-Tez,

  Krüger-Syrokomska,

  Halina,

  Kukuczka, Celina,

  death of Jurek Kukuczka,

  family life with Jurek

  Kukuczka,

  Lhotse (2009),

  life after Jurek Kukuczka,

  on Jurek Kukuczka’s character and climbing,

  Kukuczka, Jerzy “Jurek,”

  altitude fitness,

  altitude sickness,

  Annapurna (1987),

  birth of son Maciek,

  birth of son Wojtek,

  black market trading,

  Broad Peak (1984),

  Celina Ogrodzińska, 67–

  character,

  Cho Oyu (1985),

  conscripted,

  death on Lhotse (1989),

  Dhaulagiri, (1985),

  differences with Voytek Kurtyka,

  early background,

  end of partnership with Voytek Kurtyka,

  Everest (1980),

  funeral,

  GI and GII traverse (1983),

  K2 (1981),

  K2 (1982),

  K2 (1986),

  Kangchenjunga (1985),

  Katowice Mountain Club,

  Lhotse (1979),

  Lhotse (1985),

  Lhotse (1989),

  Makalu (1981),

  Manaslu (1986),

  marriage,

  Masherbrum La (1984),

  meets Voytek Kurtyka,

  memorials,

  Mt. McKinley,

  Nanga Parbat (1977),

  Nanga Parbat (1985),

  negotiation skills,

  Northeast Ridge of K2,

  partnership with Artur Hajzer,

  partnership with Voytek Kurtyka,

  race with Reinhold Messner,

  relationship with Wanda Rutkiewicz,

  Shishapangma (1987),

  “The Knuckle,”

  Kukuczka, Maciek,

  Kukuczka, Wojtek,

  Lhotse (2009),

  Kulmhoff (Chełmno),

  Kuntner, Christian,

  Kunyang Chhish,

  Kurczab, Janusz,

  K2 (1981),

  Kurtyka, Aleksander,

  Kurtyka, Tadeusz. See Worcell, Henryk. Kurtyka, Voytek,

  Afghanistan (1972),

  Afghanistan (1977), with Alex MacIntyre and John Porter,

  art of suffering,

  black-market trade,

  Broad Peak (1984),

  character,

  Cho Oyu (1990),

  climbing as art,

  club membership,

  death of Jurek Kukuczka,

  differences with Jurek Kukuczka,

  disdain for 8000er race,

  divorce,

  early background,

  end of partnership with Jurek Kukuczka,

  Erhard Loretan,

  Gasherbrum IV (1985),

  GI and GII traverse (1983),

  India (1978),

  inspired by Jesus Christ,

  K2 (1981),

  K2 (1982),

  K2 (1986),

  large expeditions,

  last climbs in the Himalaya,

  Makalu (1981),

  Manaslu (1986),

  “night naked” climbing,

  partnership with Jurek Kukuczka,

  “Path of the Mountain,”

  philosophy of climbing,

  Polish Syndrome,

  relationship with Wanda Rutkiewicz,

  safety record,

  Shishapangma (1990),

  Łańcut, Poland,

  Lhotse,

  Lhotse (1974),

  Loretan, Erhard,

  Cho Oyu (1990),

  relationship with Voytek Kurtyka,

  Shishapangma (1990),

  Lublin,

  Lukla,

  Lwow, Alek,

  Lyncke, Kurt,

  MacIntyre, Alex,

  Afghanistan (1977), with Voytek Kurtyka and John Porter,

  character,

  death,

  India (1978),

  Majer, Janusz,

  K2 (1986),

  Shishapangma (1987),

  Makalu,

  Malczewski, Count A.,

  Manaslu,

  Masherbrum La,

  Matuszewska, Ewa,

  death of Wanda

  Rutkiewicz,

  Messner, Reinhold,

  Mickiewicz, Adam,

  Milewska, Anna,

  Miłosz, Czesław,

  Miodowicz-Wolf,

  Dobrosława “Mrówka,”

  Mont Blanc,

  Morawski, Piotr,

  Marpha,

  Moro, Simone,

  Morskie Oko valley,

  Mt. McKinley,

  Namche Bazaar,

  Nanda Devi East,

  Nanda Devi Sanctuary,

  Nanga Parbat,

  Nazi-Soviet Pact of Nonaggression,

  Norgay, Tenzing,

  Noshaq,

  Ogrodzińska, Celina. See Kukuczka, Celina. Okopińska, Anna,

  Onyszkiewicz, Alison,

  Onyszkiewicz, Janusz,

  Orsk,

  Ousland, Børge,

  Palmowska, Krystyna,

  K2 (1986),

  Panejko-Pankiewicz, Ewa,

  Parmentier, Michel,

  Pawlikowski, Maciej,

  Pawlowski, Ryszard,

  Annapurna (1991),

  background,

  climbing experience,

  Lhotse (1989),

  Pennington, Alan,

  Petit Dru,

  Piasecki, Przemek,

  Pietkiewicz, Jurek

  Pik Lenin,

  Piotrowski, Tadek,

  K2 (1986),

  Plungė, Lithuania,

  Płungiany, northeastern

  Poland,

  Pokhara,

  Poland martial law (1981),

  political situation (1995),

  Six-Year Economic Plan,

  Solidarity,

  state support for alpinists,

  visit of Pope John Paul II (1979),

  Polish Alpine Association,

  Himalayan Fund,

  Sporting Committee,

  Polish alpinism,

  and national character,

  Golden Age of,

  Polish climbing clubs,

  Polish Committee of

  National Liberation,

  Polish Mountaineering Club,

  Polish secret service,

  and mountain climbers,

  Poli
sh Uprising,

  Pope John Paul II,

  Porter, John,

  Afghanistan (1977), with Voytek Kurtyka and Alex MacIntyre,

  India(1978),

  Probulski, Bogusław,

  Pumari Chhish,

  Pustelnik, Piotr,

  Queen Elizabeth II,

  Radom, southeastern

  Poland,

  Rawalpindi,

  Rouse, Alan,

  Rüedi, Marcel,

  Russian Pamirs,

  Rutkiewicz, Wanda,

  Alek Lwow,

  Alps,

  Andrzej Zawada,

  Annapurna (1987),

  Annapurna (1991),

  autobiography and Ewa

  Matuszewska,

  Broad Peak (1986),

  Caravan of Dreams,

  car racing,

  character,

  Cho Oyu (1991),

  death of Jurek Kukuczka,

  death of Zbigniew Błaszkiewicz,

  death on Kangchenjunga (1992),

  divorce,

  Dr. Marion Feik,

  early background,

  Eiger North Face (1973),

  Everest (1978),

  familial responsibilities,

  first climbing experience,

  Gasherbrum III (GIII), (1975),

  GI (1990),

  K2 (1981),

  K2 (1986),

  Kangchenjunga (1991),

  Kangchenjunga (1992),

  Kurt Lyncke,

  leadership style,

  learning to climb,

  Makalu (1986),

  Makalu(1990),

  marriage to Dr. Helmut

  Scharfetter,

  marriage to Wojtek Rutkiewicz,

  Matterhorn North Face, (1978),

  meets Pope John Paul II,

  Mt. Elbrus training and injury,

  Nanga Parbat (1976),

  Nanga Parbat (1977),

  Nanga Parbat (1985),

  North Pillar of the Eiger, (1973),

  Noshaq (1972),

  philosophy about women

  climbers,

  Pik Lenin,

  power at altitude,

  proof of Annapurna (1991),

  Reinhold Messner speaking tours,

  Russian Pamirs,

  Shishapangma (1987),

  Solidarity,

  Rutkiewicz, Wojtek,

  Scharfetter, Dr. Helmut,

  death of Wanda Rutkiewicz,

  Schauer, Robert,

  third man,

  Shishapangma,

  Skorek, Janusz,

  Skorupa, Piotr,

  Skrzyka, Western Poland,

  Smolich, John,

  smuggling,

  Jurek Kukuczka and Voytek Kurtyka smuggle whisky,

  Sobibór,

  Solidarity, Šrauf, Stane Belak,

  Stefko, Bogdan,

  Szczepański, J.A.,

  Tabei, Junko, Taternik magazine,

  Tatras,

  as winter climbing training ground,

  Grzegorz Chwoła and Captain Baniak,

  Termez,

  Treblinka,

  Troillet, Jean,

  Cho Oyu (1990),

  Shishapangma (1990),

  Trollryggen,

  Tukche Peak Hotel,

  Tullis, Julie,

  University of Wrocław,

  Urubko, Denis,

  Viesturs, Ed,

  Volga River,

  Wach, Danuta,

  Wakhan Corridor,

  Wałęsa, Lech,

  Warecki, Rysiek,

  Warecki, Ryszard,

  Warsaw Ghetto,

  Warsaw Mountain Club,

  Warsaw, Poland,

  Warsaw Uprising,

  Wielicki, Krzysztof,

  Annapurna (1987),

  Annapurna (1991),

  Broad Peak (1984),

  character,

  Cho Oyu (1991),

  Cho Oyu (1993),

  death of Wanda Rutkiewicz,

  Dhaulagiri (1990),

  early background,

  early climbs,

  Everest (1979–80),

  Everest (1980),

  GI and GII (1995),

  Himalayan Crown,

  Himalayan Crown in winter,

  K2, (1981),

  K2, (1987),

  K2 (1994),

  K2 (1996),

  Kangchenjunga (1985),

  leadership style,

  Lhotse (1988),

  Nanga Parbat (1996),

  philosophy of climbing,

  Shishapangma (1993),

  Solidarity (1981),

  Wieser, Hannes,

  Wiktorowska, Hanna,

  Wilczyński, Ludwik,

  Wojtyla, Karol Cardinal (Pope John Paul II),

  Wolf, Jan,

  Worcell, Henryk (Tadeusz Kurtyka), Bewitched Circles,

  Wrocław, Poland,

  Wrocław Mountain Club,

  Wrocław University,

  Wróż, Wojciech,

  Youth Social Action Fund,

  Zawada, Andrzej,

  Afghanistan (1977),

  Cho Oyu (1985),

  club membership,

  death,

  early background,

  Everest (1979–80),

  Everest (1980),

  K2 (1987),

  leadership style,

  lineage,

  Lhotse (1974),

  Noshaq expedition,

  Russian Pamirs,

  Tatras winter traverse,

  Wanda Rutkiewicz,

  “Zawada Boys,”

  Zawada, Eleonora,

  Zawada, Philip,

  Zawada, Tomasz,

  Zdzitowiecki, Krzysztof,

  Zebak,

  Zillertal Alps, Żurek, Krzysztof,

  ABOUT THE AUTHOR

  Bernadette McDonald is the founding vice-president of Mountain Culture at The Banff Centre and the author of seven books on international mountaineering, including Toma˘z Humar (Random House UK, 2008); Brotherhood of the Rope: The Biography of Charles Houston (The Mountaineers Books, 2007), and I’ll Call You in Kathmandu: The Elizabeth Hawley Story (The Mountaineers Books, 2005). McDonald is the winner of numerous awards, including Italy’s ITAS Prize for mountain writing (2010) and India’s Kekoo Naoroji Award for Mountain Literature (2009 and 2008). She has also received the Alberta Order of Excellence (2010), the Summit of Excellence Award from The Banff Centre (2007), the King Albert Award for international leadership in the field of mountain culture and environment (2006), and the Queen’s Golden Jubilee Medal (2002).

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