by Tim Flannery
Dumont d’Urville led an extraordinary life. In 1810 he purchased the Venus de Milo from a Greek peasant—it had arms then, but these were broken off in a tussle for the priceless object between the French and Turkish soldiers. He later explored in Australia, the subantarctic and elsewhere. He died in a train crash in Versailles in 1842.
In King George Sound in October 1826, the expedition scientists Jean René Quoy and Joseph Paul Gaimard wrote detailed notes on the Aborigines they encountered there which formed part of Dumont d’Urville’s original expedition report.
The natives of King George Sound are generally below average height; however, there were some quite tall ones among the twenty-five to thirty of them that we were able to see. At first sight one is struck by their thinness and the diminutiveness of their lower limbs, but this tendency does not appear to be peculiar to these people; it is due to the miserable state in which they live and lack of sufficient nourishment to develop those parts. What we have seen in these regions seems to bear this out. Some women from a New Holland tribe that lives on the mainland opposite Kangaroo Island, and others from Port Dalrymple in Van Diemen’s Land and abducted by English sealers in this emaciated condition, after living with them and eating meat in abundance, had very well developed, even obese, extremities. The same condition applied to several tribes in New South Wales. Whatever the cause, this characteristic emaciation is so marked among the men we are concerned with here, that it seems peculiar and quite extraordinary at first sight and the drawing that M. Sainson made of a child looks like a real caricature; one would say that his lower limbs are nothing but a femur and tibia covered with skin.
If the torso seems more developed and compact, one can only attribute this to the spindliness of their legs, because it is usually thin. The arms too are the same but slightly less so. However, the stomach is rounded with a tendency to enlarge; which can easily be explained by the habit these savages have; as they are exposed to long periods of abstinence, they overeat when they get the opportunity.
The head is quite large, the face broad, the brow ridges very prominent, the more so perhaps because their eyes, the whites of which are a yellowish white, are very deepset. They have fairly wide and flat nostrils, their lips are moderately thick, the gums are pale, a big wide mouth is filled with beautiful regular teeth, the whole set resembling those artificial jaws that one sees in Paris in the Palais-Royal. They have quite ordinary ears; their hair is wavy without being frizzy, but it is hard to recognise the colour because it is always covered with a layer of ochre, except in the children, who have brown or black hair. Their beards are sparse as are their moustaches.
Their usual colour varies between a light black and a reddish black. Their emaciation is so pronounced that some of them look like spectres. This is not surprising when you consider that the earth provides practically no food for these people whose only weapon is a primitive spear, and who have to cover large areas in search of small prey like snakes, lizards, skinks and sometimes phalangers and bandicoots, which they eat without cooking after merely scorching them in the fire. We have occasionally seen them devour with the same relish the fish intestines that our sailors threw away…
The wretched state in which these tribes seem to live has not destroyed, as one might think likely, certain of the faculties peculiar to man. Thus, for example, one cannot say that the inhabitants of King George Sound are stupid, although their existence is spent almost entirely in sleeping or searching for food. Our presence put them in high spirits, and they tried to communicate their feelings to us with a loquacity to which we could not respond because we did not know their language. On meeting, they approached us first, talking and gesticulating a great deal; they would give loud shouts, and if we responded in the same tone, their delight knew no bounds. Soon there would be an exchange of names, and it was not long before they would ask for food by patting their stomachs. During a night spent among them on shore, we quite easily picked up their words for everyday things, and they were unfailingly very kindly disposed towards us. They sometimes followed us as we went about our work; however, it must be said that they continually displayed a lack of industry and a laziness which never moved them to offer to help with certain work that other men would have been eager to lighten for us, such as, for example, carrying our collection of specimens, looking for shells and so on.
If the need for food or some other reason obliges them to leave the settlements where they have their huts, they can be seen wandering about in small groups of two, three or four, rarely seven or eight, and they are not afraid to camp out in the open without any shelter. They merely light a fire beside which they never stop shivering with cold. And this was in spring in the southern hemisphere. What must it be like in winter?…These children of nature, of whom such a brilliant picture has been painted, sometimes seem to us very much to be pitied. If they intend spending a night somewhere, they promptly build a small hut hardly adequate to protect them from the rain.
When they are distressed they cry easily; this happened to an old man who was involuntarily kept on board a little longer than he wanted to be. They sometimes sing, or rather they chant. Paternal love seems fairly well developed among them, as we saw from our friend Patêt; this good Australian took great care of his son Yalepouol, who accompanied him everywhere and came aboard Astrolabe with him.
CHARLES STURT
On the Importance of a Good Introduction, 1830
Charles Sturt was as gifted with the pen as he was with the compass. We join him here in a boat on the Murray in January 1830, between the Murrumbidgee and the Darling. In contrast with most other explorers, he encountered vast numbers of Aborigines in this heavily populated region. Clearly, tribal boundaries were fiercely defended, and the use of emissaries to provide an introduction for travelling groups was essential if conflict was to be avoided. All goes well for Sturt—until his boat outsails his Aboriginal heralds.
Of all expeditionary turning points, I like this one best. Sturt’s progress is stopped by a vast fishing net strung across the Darling. Out of consideration for the Aborigines who depend upon it for survival, Sturt decides not to breach the net. Instead he raises the Union Jack, gives three cheers and returns whence he came.
We had not seen any natives since falling in with the last tribe on the Murrumbidgee. A cessation had, therefore, taken place in our communication with them, in re-establishing which I anticipated considerable difficulty. It appeared singular that we should not have fallen in with any for several successive days, more especially at the junction of the two rivers, as in similar situations they generally have an establishment. In examining the country back from the stream, I did not observe any large paths, but it was evident that fires had made extensive ravages in the neighbourhood, so that the country was, perhaps, only temporarily deserted. Macnamee, who had wandered a little from the tents, declared that he had seen about a dozen natives round a fire, from whom (if he really did see them) he very precipitately fled, but I was inclined to discredit his story, because in our journey on the following day we did not see even a casual wanderer.†
The river maintained its character, and raised our hopes to the highest pitch. Its breadth varied from 150 to 200 yards; and only in one place, where a reef of ironstone stretched nearly across from the left bank, so as to contract the channel near the right and to form a considerable rapid, was there any apparent obstruction to our navigation. I was sorry, however, to remark that the breadth of alluvial soil between its outer and inner banks was very inconsiderable, and that the upper levels were poor and sandy. Blue gum generally occupied the former, while the usual productions of the plains still predominated upon the latter, and showed that the distant interior had not yet undergone any favourable change. We experienced strong breezes from the north, but the range of the thermometer was high, and the weather rather oppressive than otherwise. On the night of the 16th, we had a strong wind from the NW, but it moderated with daylight, and shifted to the ENE, and the day was favou
rable and cool…
About 4 p.m. some natives were observed running by the river side behind us, but on our turning the boat’s head towards the shore they ran away. It was evident that they had no idea what we were and, from their timidity, feeling assured that it would be impossible to bring them to a parley, we continued onwards till our usual hour of stopping, when we pitched our tents on the left bank for the night, it being the one opposite to that on which the natives had appeared. We conjectured that their curiosity would lead them to follow us, which they very shortly did; for we had scarcely made ourselves comfortable when we heard their wild notes through the woods as they advanced towards the river; and their breaking into view with their spears and shields, and painted and prepared as they were for battle, was extremely fine. They stood threatening us and making a great noise for a considerable time but, finding that we took no notice of them, they, at length, became quiet.
I then walked to some little distance from the party and, taking a branch in my hand as a sign of peace, beckoned them to swim to our side of the river, which, after some time, two or three of them did. But they approached me with great caution, hesitating at every step. They soon, however, gained confidence, and were ultimately joined by all the males of their tribe. I gave the first who swam the river a tomahawk (making this a rule in order to encourage them) with which he was highly delighted. I shortly afterwards placed them all in a row and fired a gun before them: they were quite unprepared for such an explosion, and after standing stupified and motionless for a moment or two they simultaneously took to their heels, to our great amusement. I succeeded, however, in calling them back, and they regained their confidence so much that sixteen of them remained with us all night, but the greater number retired at sunset.
On the following morning, they accompanied us down the river, where we fell in with their tribe who were stationed on an elevated bank a short distance below—to the number of eighty-three men, women and children. Their appearance was extremely picturesque and singular. They wanted us to land, but time was too precious for such delays. Some of the boldest of the natives swam round and round the boat so as to impede the use of the oars, and the women on the bank evinced their astonishment by mingled yells and cries. They entreated us, by signs, to remain with them but, as I foresaw a compliance on this occasion would hereafter be attended with inconvenience, I thought it better to proceed on our journey, and the natives soon ceased their importunities and, indeed, did not follow or molest us.
The river improved upon us at every mile. Its reaches were of noble breadth and splendid appearance. Its current was stronger and it was fed by numerous springs. Rocks, however, were more frequent in its bed, and in two places almost formed a barrier across the channel, leaving but a narrow space for the boats to go down. We passed several elevations of from seventy to ninety feet in height, at the base of which the stream swept along. The soil of these elevations was a mixture of clay (marl) and sand, upon coarse sandstone. Their appearance and the manner in which they had been acted upon by water was singular, and afforded a proof of the violence of the rains in this part of the interior. From the highest of these, I observed that the country to the SE was gently undulated, and so far changed in character from that through which we had been travelling; still, however, it was covered with a low scrub, and was barren and unpromising…
On the 19th, as we were about to conclude our journey for the day, we saw a large body of natives before us. On approaching them, they showed every disposition for combat, and ran along the bank with spears in rests, as if only waiting for an opportunity to throw them at us. They were upon the right, and as the river was broad enough to enable me to steer wide of them I did not care much for their threats; but upon another party appearing upon the left bank, I thought it high time to disperse one or the other of them, as the channel was not wide enough to enable me to keep clear of danger, if assailed by both, as I might be while keeping amid the channel.
I found, however, that they did not know how to use the advantage they possessed, as the two divisions formed a junction; those on the left swimming over to the stronger body upon the right bank. This, fortunately, prevented the necessity of any hostile measure on my part, and we were suffered to proceed unmolested for the present. The whole then followed us without any symptom of fear, but making a dreadful shouting, and beating their spears and shields together, by way of intimidation.
It is but justice to my men to say that in this critical situation they evinced the greatest coolness, though it was impossible for anyone to witness such a scene with indifference. As I did not intend to fatigue the men by continuing to pull farther than we were in the habit of doing, we landed at our usual time on the left bank, and while the people were pitching the tents I walked down the bank with M’Leay to treat with these desperadoes in the best way we could, across the water, a measure to which my men showed great reluctance, declaring that if during our absence the natives approached them they would undoubtedly fire upon them. I assured them it was not my intention to go out of their sight. We took our guns with us, but determined not to use them until the last extremity, both from a reluctance to shed blood and with a view to our future security.
I held a long pantomimical dialogue with them, across the water, and held out the olive branch in token of amity. They at length laid aside their spears, and a long consultation took place among them, which ended in two or three wading into the river, contrary, as it appeared, to the earnest remonstrances of the majority who, finding that their entreaties had no effect, wept aloud and followed them with a determination, I am sure, of sharing their fate, whatever it might have been.
As soon as they landed, M’Leay and I retired to a little distance from the bank, and sat down; that being the usual way among the natives of the interior to invite to an interview. When they saw us act thus, they approached, and sat down by us, but without looking up, from a kind of diffidence peculiar to them, and which exists even among the nearest relatives, as I have already had occasion to observe. As they gained confidence, however, they showed an excessive curiosity, and stared at us in the most earnest manner. We now led them to the camp, and I gave, as was my custom, the first who had approached, a tomahawk; and to the others some pieces of iron hoop. Those who had crossed the river amounted to about thirty-five in number. At sunset, the majority of them left us; but three old men remained at the fireside all night.
I observed that few of them had either lost their front teeth or lacerated their bodies, as the more westerly tribes do. The most loathsome diseases prevailed among them. Several were disabled by leprosy, or some similar disorder, and two or three had entirely lost their sight. They are, undoubtedly, a brave and a confiding people, and are by no means wanting in natural affection. In person, they resemble the mountain tribes. They had the thick lip, the sunken eye, the extended nostril, and long beards, and both smooth and curly hair are common among them. Their lower extremities appear to bear no proportion to their bust in point of muscular strength; but the facility with which they ascend trees of the largest growth, and the activity with which they move upon all occasions, together with their singularly erect stature, argue that such appearance is entirely deceptive.
The old men slept very soundly by the fire, and were the last to get up in the morning. M’Leay’s extreme good humour had made a most favourable impression upon them, and I can picture him, even now, joining in their wild song. Whether it was from his entering so readily into their mirth, or from anything peculiar that struck them, the impression upon the whole of us was that they took him to have been originally a black, in consequence of which they gave him the name of Rundi. Certain it is, they pressed him to show his side, and asked if he had not received a wound there—evidently as if the original Rundi had met with a violent death from a spear wound in that place.
The whole tribe, amounting in number to upwards of 150, assembled to see us take our departure. Four of them accompanied us, among whom there was one remarkable f
or personal strength and stature. The 21st passed without our falling in with any new tribe, and the night of the 22nd saw us still wandering in that lonely desert together. There was something unusual in our going through such an extent of country without meeting another tribe, but our companions appeared to be perfectly aware of the absence of inhabitants, as they never left our side.
Although the banks of the river had been of general equality of height, sandy elevations still occasionally formed a part of them, and their summits were considerably higher than the alluvial flats.
It was upon the crest of one of these steep and lofty banks that, on the morning of the 22nd, the natives who were ahead of the boat suddenly stopped to watch our proceedings down a foaming rapid that ran beneath. We were not aware of the danger to which we were approaching until we turned an angle of the river, and found ourselves too near to retreat. In such a moment, without knowing what was before them, the coolness of the men was strikingly exemplified. No one even spoke after they became aware that silence was necessary. The natives (probably anticipating misfortune) stood leaning upon their spears upon the lofty bank above us.
Desiring the men not to move from their seats, I stood up to survey the channel, and to steer the boat to that part of it which was least impeded by rocks. I was obliged to decide upon a hasty survey, as we were already at the head of the rapid. It appeared to me that there were two passages, the one down the centre of the river, the other immediately under its right bank. A considerable rock stood directly in our way to the latter, so that I had no alternative but to descend the former. About forty yards below the rock, I noticed that a line of rocks occupied the space between the two channels, whilst a reef, projecting from the left bank, made the central passage distinctly visible, and the rapidity of the current proportionally great.