by Tim Flannery
May 2—We again moved away at dawn, through a country which gradually became more scrubby, hilly and sandy. The horses crawled on for twenty-one miles, when I halted for an hour to rest, and to have a little tea from our now scanty stock of water. The change which I had noticed yesterday in the vegetation of the country was greater and more cheering every mile we went, although as yet the country itself was as desolate and inhospitable as ever. The smaller banksias now abounded, whilst the Banksia grandis, and many other shrubs common at King George’s Sound, were frequently met with.
The natives whose tracks we had so frequently met with, taking the same course as ourselves to the westward, seemed now to be behind us; during the morning we had passed many freshly lit fires, but the people themselves remained concealed; we had now lost all traces of them and the country seemed untrodden and untenanted. In the course of our journey this morning, we met with many holes in the sheets of limestone which occasionally coated the surface of the ground; in these holes the natives appeared to procure an abundance of water after rains, but it was so long since any had fallen that all were dry and empty now. In one deep hole only did we find the least trace of moisture; this had at the bottom of it perhaps a couple of wine glasses full of mud and water, and was most carefully blocked up from the birds with huge stones; it had evidently been visited by natives not an hour before we arrived at it, but I suspect they were as much disappointed as we were, upon rolling away all the stones, to find nothing in it.
After our scanty meal, we again moved onwards, but the road became so scrubby and rocky, or so sandy and hilly, that we could make no progress at all by night, and at eight miles from where we dined we were compelled to halt after a day’s journey of twenty-nine miles; but without a blade even of withered grass for our horses, which was the more grievous because for the first time since we left the last water a very heavy dew fell, and would have enabled them to feed a little, had there been grass. We had now traversed 138 miles of country from the last water and, according to my estimate of the distance we had to go, ought to be within a few miles of the termination of the cliffs of the Great Bight.
May 3—The seventh day’s dawn found us early commencing our journey. The poor horses still crawled on, though slowly. I was surprised that they were still alive, after the continued sufferings and privations they had been subject to. As for ourselves, we were both getting very weak and worn out, as well as lame, and it was with the greatest difficulty I could get Wylie to move, if he once sat down. I had myself the same kind of apathetic feeling, and would gladly have laid down and slept forever. Nothing but a strong sense of duty prevented me from giving way to this pleasing but fatal indulgence.
The road today became worse than ever, being one continued succession of sandy, scrubby and rocky ridges, and hollows formed on the top of the cliffs along which our course lay. After travelling two and a half miles, however, we were cheered and encouraged by the sight of sandy hills, and a low coast stretching beyond the cliffs to the south-west, though they were still some distance from us. At ten miles from where we had slept, a native road led us down a very steep part of the cliffs, and we descended to the beach. The wretched horses could scarcely move. It was with the greatest difficulty we got them down the hill; and now, although within sight of our goal, I feared two of them would never reach it. By perseverance we still got them slowly along for two miles from the base of the cliffs and then, turning in among the sand-drifts, to our great joy and relief, found a place where the natives had dug for water. Thus at twelve o’clock on the seventh day since leaving the last depot we were again encamped at water, after having crossed 150 miles of a rocky, barren and scrubby tableland…
July 7—…Having turned our horses loose, and piled up our baggage, now again greatly reduced, I took my journals and charts, and with Wylie forded the river about breast high. We were soon on the other side, and rapidly advancing towards the termination of our journey. The rain was falling in torrents, and we had not a dry shred about us, whilst the whole country through which we passed had, from the long-continued and excessive rains, become almost an uninterrupted chain of puddles. For a great part of the way we walked up to our ankles in water. This made our progress slow, and rendered our last day’s march a very cold and disagreeable one.
Before reaching the Sound, we met a native who at once recognised Wylie, and greeted him most cordially. From him we learnt that we had been expected at the Sound some months ago but had long been given up for lost, whilst Wylie had been mourned for and lamented as dead by his friends and his tribe. The rain still continued falling heavily as we ascended to the brow of the hill immediately overlooking the town of Albany—not a soul was to be seen—not an animal of any kind—the place looked deserted and uninhabited, so completely had the inclemency of the weather driven both man and beast to seek shelter from the storm.
For a moment I stood gazing at the town below me—that goal I had so long looked forward to, had so laboriously toiled to attain, was at last before me. A thousand confused images and reflections crowded through my mind, and the events of the past year were recalled in rapid succession. The contrast between the circumstances under which I had commenced and terminated my labours stood in strong relief before me. The gay and gallant cavalcade that accompanied me on my way at starting, the small but enterprising band that I then commanded, the goodly array of horses and drays, with all their well-ordered appointments and equipment, were conjured up in all their circumstances of pride and pleasure; and I could not restrain a tear as I called to mind the embarrassing difficulties and sad disasters that had broken up my party, and left myself and Wylie the two sole wanderers remaining at the close of an undertaking entered upon under such hopeful auspices.
Whilst standing thus upon the brow overlooking the town, and buried in reflection, I was startled by the loud shrill cry of the native we had met on the road and who still kept with us: clearly and powerfully that voice rang through the recesses of the settlement beneath, whilst the blended name of Wylie told me of the information it conveyed. For an instant there was a silence still almost as death—then a single repetition of that wild joyous cry, a confused hum of many voices, a hurrying to and fro of human feet, and the streets which had appeared so shortly before gloomy and untenanted were now alive with natives—men, women, and children, old and young, rushing rapidly up the hill to welcome the wanderer on his return and to receive their lost one almost from the grave.
It was an interesting and touching sight to witness the meeting between Wylie and his friends. Affection’s strongest ties could not have produced a more affecting and melting scene—the wordless, weeping pleasure, too deep for utterance, with which he was embraced by his relatives, the cordial and hearty reception given him by his friends, and the joyous greeting bestowed upon him by all, might well have put to the blush those heartless calumniators who, branding the savage as the creature only of unbridled passions, deny to him any of those better feelings and affections which are implanted in the breast of all mankind, and which nature has not denied to any colour or to any race.
† Mr H. was of course William Hovell.
* This is one of the names by which the transported convicts are distinguished in the colony.
† The very large loads the women are carrying suggest a more sedentary lifestyle for these Aborigines.
† The strange beast was probably a seal.
† Batman was on the Yarra River near where Queen Street now terminates.
† It wasn’t taro she was digging, but the root of the yam daisy.
† Wándo River: now the Wannon River.
* My native name.
WILLIAM WALL
Bad Is the Bush, 1844
William Wall, Irish ‘Collector and Preserver’ at the Australian Museum, lacked the stiff upper lip so often encountered in explorers’ writings. In 1844 he was sent on a collecting expedition with a bullock team from Sydney to the Murrumbidgee River. Reading Wall’s account gives the id
ea that he was pushing into the deepest wilds, but in fact he was journeying down what was to become the Hume Highway—and even then a weekly coach ran the route.
Wall had a unique way with words. I have left his spelling and punctuation entirely as I found them, not least because I found it difficult to divine the state of Mr Clark, who was, Wall tells us, ‘compleatly punalised when he saw us’!
Friday Septr. 13th.—The Morning very gloomy likely to rain left Hurley’s at 6 oclock for Camden. Had a wreatched night no sleep full of anxiety. Paid 5/- for bed and Tea also 3/- coach hire to Camden—arrived at Camden at 8 ock. had breakfast payed 1/ 6—left for Brownlow Hill accompanied by Mr Lakeman the propicitor of the Camden Inn in a Spring Cart got lost in the Bush about 11 ock. after driving about for 4 hours we came in sight of a farm which he believed to be Mr M. McLeay…It rained on us all day so that we arrived in a dreadfull mess wet through.
Saturday Septr. 14th.—Got my cloths dry the weather still very Bad so wet that we are obliged to remain untill Monday casterated a young Cock for Mr McLeay…
Wednesday Septr. 18th.—The weather still favourable I leave here to accompany the Teams which are wating a short distance at a place called Mount Hunter left Mount Hunter this Morning at 9 ock…the Roads not the best and the Bullocks young and troublesome in travelling i collected a few Insects…I slept in a Team with an old Tarpolian over me, I must say it was anything but comfortable night fine shot nothing…
Friday Septr. 20th.—The morng. very gloomy and likely to rain had a smart shower…shot 1 mock Diamond Bird 1 yellow-eared Honey sucker and 2 common Birds saw nothing rare—one of our Bullocks droped on the Road which prevents us from going any further…
Monday Septr. 23rd.—Up at sunrise the morning fine but stormy we start from here about 7 oclk. feel Rather bettor in health thank god during the day I got very I11 so much so that I am determined to return by the mail tomorrow morng. Toward Evening we reached Luctam’s Publick House and I their made enquiries about my fair to Sydney I thought by leaving my Box and other things that he might forward me on the Coach but the answer I received from him was dam his Eyes if he would forward his mother…
Wednesday Septr. 25th.—The morning very dark and likely to rain we are obliged to remane here all day as our Bullocks are compleatly nocked up for want of food some of them are not able to walk…my stomach very raw and sore attribute it solely to makeing use of the damper which is half of it raw Badly Baked I have longily this last week for a Potatoe and I put on a bold face and Begged a few on the Road which I found to do me a great deal of good…
Thursday Septr. 26th.—The morning fine saw a Black Satin Bird took a long ramble in the Bush saw nothing uncommon returned about 12 oclock one of our best Bullocks lost and 3 or 4 compleatly shook so that we cannot stir to day Woolingong is only 20 miles from us. I am quite tired of this mode of collecting in fact it is a very great loss of time as to get anything new along the Roads it is impossible I account for it in this way the Birds and animals are compleatly driven into Bush for miles oweing to the number of Teams and other vaicles going the Road many Persons with teams I notice carry guns and shoot every thing the see, worth haveing whether they have any use for it or not so that I consider this mode of collecting will never answer I am compleatly sick of Bullock driving and Bullock drivers their company is anything but edifying…
Saturday Septr. 28th.—…during the day we had a visit from a Bush Rainger one of the men fortunately was with me he demanded Tobacco but was told by the man that we had but very little when we started…the Bush Rainger not finding Tobacco was just in the act of putting his hands on the Gun which was lying against a tree when the man took it and placed it in one of our drays greatly against the wishes of the Bush Rainger no doubt as he might with eas ‘Bailed’ us up and helpt himself to what he pleased I had a long walk in the morning and shot 1 sattin Bird male, 2 Black headed shrikes males and 1 Kangaroo rat female, with young the night very dark no Moon.
Sunday Septr. 29th.—…made 12 miles in all this was the best days travelling we had sinse we started = Bad is the Bush= we met a tribe of Blacks returning from the Berama Races…
Saturday October 5th.—We left Medigang eirly this morng. and proceeded on our journey for Browlow Hill where we expect to reach with smart walking and a Gods assistenec by Sundown it is a distance of 33 miles Parts of the day very wet and the Road very Bad and hevey we arrived late at night when I arrived I was compleatly stiffened and suffered a great deel of Pain in my legs in fact I thought I should have droped before I got their. Mr Clark the overseer was compleatly punalised when he saw us and sayed the cattle must have been illused as they never would have Died on the Road…I went to bed and scarcely able to go that far the night wet and very dark never saw one Bird on my journey or anything else worth collecting.
Sunday October 6th.—The morning fine when I awoke could scarsely stand with Pains in my legs but during the day I got a diel better I thought to borrow as much money as would take me to Sydney but a man might as well expect to fly as get a shilling from anyone on the farm…
Sunday October 13th.—No change has taken place in the weather as yet raning all last night and continues to do so today during the day in rane fell in torrens everything I have is in a mess of wet Bed clothing and all in fact my situation at pressent is anything but eviable to describe the miseary which I am placed in is impossible. Some portions of the day I go to a few burning lims wich are collected together for a fire or at least intended for one and their stand looking at the smoke as if it could warm or dry me when I grow tired of that Move I go to the dray and sit under it for an hour or so and in this way I spend the day…
Thursday October 17th.—This morning the weather chainged and I am extremely happy to say for the better we have at last a fine day the sun during the day very warm so that we were able to get our bed and bedding dried had the Rain continued much longer everything we had must have perrished everything we had in the Team was wet through and must have wrotted in another day or two this day we were without provisions of any sort and had to go to bed with nothing but a drink of sugar and water this day we had to go and beg but unfortunately for us we were unsuccessfull in our attempt all we could get was a promise for tomorrow I went out into the Bush for several hours but could see nothing but magpies and Crows not a single specimen worth shooting either for Eating or Preserving such a miserable place as this for specimens I never was in…
Friday October 18th.—Still in the same place this morning I went out eirly into the Bush in hope of collecting the Eirly Worm but the worm provied to be a snake wich was the only thing I saw…during the day the other two men came up with the Team and they brought with them a little provision about as much as will last two days with care so that we are here to a peg…
Tuesday October 22nd.—A glorious morning everything right and Start eirly. This is my birthday I am 29 years of age today—we had an excellent day travelling 25 miles we went through Goulbourn and campt at a place called the Run of Waters. Goulbourn is a beautiful inland town by far the pretiest I have seen in the Colony it is built on a plain which extends for several miles with a splendid river running through the center previous to our arriving at Goulbourn our team got stuck in a mud hole…
Thursday October 24th.—The day extremely hot I finde it very tiresome travelling yesterday we traveled 22 miles and today we expect to go as many more I have to walk all the way as we have a very heavy load and only 2 horses my feet are cut and my Boots have no souls…
Saturday October 26th.—The morning dark and very cold. Soon after we started it commenced to rane and continued to rain hail and snow all day part of the day the men amused themselves throwing snow Balls…
Wednesday October 30th.—The morning fine started at sun rise and reached the station about 8 oclock had to swim the horses and Team over 2 Creeks which wet everything we had on our arrival we met Mr George McLeay and Mr Gunn the overseer who were delighted to see us and seemed surprised
at our making the journey in so short a time I have now compleated my long and tiresome journey of 350 miles thank god in good health and trust with gods blessing to finde some new specimens—
LUDWIG LEIGHHARDT
Commandant! Come Here, Very Good, 1844
Ludwig Leichhardt, Prussian by birth and educated in Paris, arrived in Australia in 1840, and died somewhere in the vast outback sometime after 26 February 1848. Attempts to solve the mystery of Leichhardt’s disappearance did much to spur further exploration.
His greatest work was the expedition from Brisbane to Port Essington, north-east of Darwin, in 1844–45. Here we join him in the vicinity of what is now Kakadu National Park, on the final leg home. He encounters not only Aborigines who speak English, but water buffaloes escaped from the abandoned settlement at Raffles Bay. Leichhardt was a culinary explorer; his willingness to experiment with native foods doubtless contributed to his success.
December 2—Whilst we were waiting for our bullock, which had returned to the running brook, a fine native stepped out of the forest with the ease and grace of an Apollo, with a smiling countenance, and with the confidence of a man to whom the white face was perfectly familiar. He was unarmed, but a great number of his companions were keeping back to watch the reception he should meet with. We received him, of course, most cordially; and upon being joined by another good-looking little man, we heard him utter distinctly the words, ‘Commandant!’, ‘Come here!’, ‘Very good!’, ‘What’s your name?’