The 1934 survey was a work of a brave and intelligent man. With his crew of 12 men, he hacked his way through the 100-kilometer route and provided archaeology with an overview of the complexity and efficiency of the sacbe system. Our contemporary survey was not required to carve a path through the jungle, but used digital tools, computers, aerial survey, and remote sensing by NASA satellites to observe, measure, survey, and collect data from high above the ancient roadway. We did not attempt and cannot match Mr. Villa’s courage and fortitude. However, the comparison of Villas traditional jungle survey and O’Kon digital surveying combined to provide a new insight to the ingenious Maya road system.
The 1934 Carnegie Institution Survey of the Route
The original survey was the brain child of Villa, a member of the Carnegie Institution of Washington archaeological team working at Chichen Itza. Villa had previously explored portions of the Cobá to Yaxuná sacbe, but had not yet traveled the entire 100-kilometer route. At this time archaeologists were unsure if the road connected Cobá to Chichen Itza or to Yaxuná. Villa discussed his knowledge and experience of this paved road with Dr. Sylvanus Morley, then in charge of the Chichen Itza project. Morley charged Villa, a surveyor, with the mission of exploring and surveying the route from Yaxuná to Cobá.
The survey team was composed of Villa and 12 men; 10 men were assigned to cut a path through the thick vegetation engulfing the route of the sacbe; one man led the horses transporting the provisions, equipment, and water; and another man assisted Villa with surveying measurements and photography. Villa’s survey tools consisted solely of a handheld Brunton compass, a tripod, a 100-meter-long chain or measuring tape, and a range pole for back sighting. The Bruton compass is a precision instrument and can be leveled to increase accuracy. It is an adequate surveying device for surveying compact archaeological sites, but is challenged when required to accurately survey over long distances.
The survey team began its work on February 27, 1934, and proceeded from Yaxuná toward Cobá. The beginning of the sacbe at Yaxuná was marked by a ruined mound located in the center of the city. A stairway, located on the east side of the mound, served as a survey benchmark. At this point, the sacbe was measured to be 10.3 meters wide and 60 centimeters in height. The actual height was probably greater, but the debris of a millennium reduced the wall measurement. The structure of the sacbe at Yaxuná had been badly deteriorated, mostly due to locals using the structure as a quarry. The survey continued over the entire route of the road. As the Villa expedition cut its way over the roadway, Villa noted locations of the villages of Sisal, Sacal, Ekal, San Francisco, and Xcahumil. Villa recorded and photographed stone mile markers, culverts, ramparts, and archaeological structures. One of the interesting discoveries was a cylinder of solid stone that Villa referred to as a “road roller.” The stone was 4 meters in length and 70 centimeters in diameter, with a weight of 5 tons. There are various opinions that have been made about its usage, including a phallus symbol and a method of transport for large stone material.
The sacbe maintained a height of average 75 centimeters as the survey moved eastward. However, at a deep depression, the wall height increased to 2.5 meters. Overturned trees along the route exposed the interior and confirmed the construction of the sacbe: it has vertical sides of roughly dressed stones, large undressed stones laid in a mixture of cast-in-place concrete, smaller stones form the bed, and the roadway surface is paved with cast-in-place concrete.
For the majority of the route, the sacbe travels in a straight alignment following the topography of the terrain (Figure 9-3), only varying a few degrees from the easterly bearing for a few kilometers, then re-adjusting back to eastward. As the route neared the ancient city of Cobá, the route of the survey turned southeast before entering the city, where the sacbe intersects a north–south Sacbe No. 3. An octagonal plaza is located at this intersection. The plaza and sacbeob form geometry similar to a traffic circle. With a 4-meter-tall, truncated pyramid in the center, the sacbe then enters Cobá and ends at the eastern terminus, in the plaza of Nohoch Mul, the tallest pyramid in the Yucatán. A distance of 100 kilometers and 385 meters had been measured from the benchmark at Yaxuná. The dimensions of the road at the terminus were 9.80 meters in width and 60 centimeters in height. Villa produced a drawn survey map of the route. The map includes a cross-section of the sacbe structure and villages along the route.
It is of interest to note that Villa recorded legends relative to the building of the sacbes. The tall tales were in fashion during the time of his survey. Maya, while marveling at the monumental works of their forefathers, believed them to be the work of magic. They believed that these great engineering works were raised by men with supernatural powers. These men were lords of the elements, who, by means of a special whistle, brought life to stones that arranged themselves into marvelous and beautiful buildings and roads without the aid of human labor. These men were eventually turned to stone by divine punishment and are now the stele with human effigies that are admired in Cobá today.
Figure 9-3: Satellite map of 1934 and 1995 survey results of Cobá to Yaxuná sacbe. Courtesy of Google Earth.
The sacbe from Cobá to Yaxuná was said to be built by a magician named Ez. He performed his work in the dark, and by his magic arts, he caused the 100-kilometer road to be constructed in one night. He was so absorbed in his work that when he arrived in Cobá, he was surprised by the dawn and was turned into a stone statue. For the Maya, Cobá is a mythical place where one encounters many dangers. The terrible Hacmatz is a ghastly creature who waits patiently in the jungle by the dark of night; this animal consumes the bodies of men. The unaware who venture in Cobá after dark are devoured, as the Hacmatz entraps them by sticking out its tongue and snaring its prey.
The 1995 O’Kon Expedition to Explore the Cobá to Yaxuná Sacbe
Solving the mystery of the Maya sacbe system has been the keystone to understanding the relationship of Maya road technology with the wealth and power of the Maya city-states. The existence and extent of the sacbe system has been doubted by archaeology for more than a century. In 1995, I assembled an archaeo-engineering team to investigate the Cobá–Yaxuná sacbe and verify its character and existence. The study included the evaluation of the sacbe alignment using global positional coordinates at various locations along the route, including the termini at Cobá and Yaxuná and at intermediate points in the route.
The team consisted of three professionals who traversed portions of the sacbe at each end and at the midpoint. We were not required to suffer 20 days of hacking our way through the jungle undergrowth using a hand-held compass, tripod, and 100-meter measuring chain. We did not use our machetes and did not require a horizontal line of sight for surveying, but used a Trimble global positioning system (GPS) navigation receiver, as well as state-of-the-art (film) cameras. I was accompanied by archaeologists Dr. Nicholas Hellmuth and Carl Stimmel. We had worked together previously on deep jungle archaeological expeditions and had a proven track record. The scope of work that would verify and expand the work of Villa included the use of GPS positioning equipment at the Cobá terminus, the crossing of the Cobá–Yaxuná sacbe and Sacbe No. 3, and GPS readings at the intersection of Modern Highway 195 south of Valladolid and at the benchmark at Yaxuná. The four locations for the survey were selected for their critical locations on the sacbe route and their accessibility. Following are the locations and their characteristics.
1. Survey Location No. 1: The terminus at Cobá. The sacbe is consolidated and the road terminates at a position at the south front of Nohuch Mul. This is the highest pyramid in the Yucatán. This location was obviously the central plaza in Cobá. Four other sacbe from the cardinal directions terminate at this large plaza. GPS readings and photographs were recorded.
2. Survey Location No. 2: The intersection with Sacbe No. 3. The Yaxuná sacbe extends westward from the plaza for approximately 700 meters to the intersection with the north–south Sacbe No. 3. A unique traffic control system
was constructed at this intersection. The traffic at this intersection should have been significant. The flow of traffic on the major Yaxuná Sacbe No. 1 and the long-range Sacbe No. 3 merged and crossed at this intersection. The sacbeob ramped up 5 meters to the center of the intersection and formed a level platform. A 4-meter-tall, truncated pyramid is located at the center of the intersection; a tunnel sized for the passage of one person traverses the pyramid in an east–west direction. This passage could have been part of a defense system. The platform extends outward from the perimeter of the pyramid, forming a basic traffic circle. This configuration of road intersection enabled the four lanes of two-way traffic to be controlled by the rules of the road, such as maintaining one-way traffic around the circle and requiring entering traffic to keep to the outside lanes. Without this clever traffic rotary mechanism, the swift movers and heavy-loaded porters would cause a traffic jam. GPS readings, sketches, and photographs were recorded at this intersection.
3. Survey Location No. 3: The intersection of the Yaxuná Sacbe and modern Highway 195. Approximately 57 kilometers to the west of Cobá, the Yaxuná–Cobá sacbe is intersected by modern highway No. 195. This north–south highway cuts through the ancient road, leaving a neat cross section at each shoulder that reveals the technical composition of the road. The 1,400-year-old concrete pavement, stone side walls, and cast-in-place concrete base are clearly visible. GPS readings, sketches, and photographs were recorded at this location.
4. Survey Location No. 4: The terminus at Yaxuná. During this survey the ruined mound that served as the western terminus of the sacbe was investigated. The structure was degraded; however, the ramp of the sacbe up onto the structure was apparent. The sacbe extending to the east was clearly visible for a substantial distance. The site of Yaxuná is a flat plain with elevated temperatures. During the hour-long wait for the Trimble Navigation to acquire three signals, the heat became unbearable. The temperature rose to well over 110 degrees F; there was no shade on the sacbe. We took turns sitting in the shade of the van and studying the ancient city. Across the site, the recently discovered pyramid rose above the plain. Climbing to the summit one can see Chichen Itza 18 kilometer to the north. It was a great spot for Cobá to spy on Chichen Itza or to signal from the promontory. Finally, we acquired the three satellite signals, packed up, and turned the vehicle northward, enjoying the cool 4-70 air conditioner—that’s four windows open while driving 70 kilometers an hour. GPS readings and photographs were recorded at the site.
The results of the survey were assessed and analyzed, and delivered at an architectural conference. However, we knew more work must be carried out to further define the route of the sacbe.
The 2000 Ground Survey of the Cobá to Yaxuná Sacbe
During the period of 1995 to 2000, the site of Yaxuná was consolidated, and archeological work was ongoing at Cobá. It was determined we should verify the 1995 GPS readings in relation to the consolidated structures. In addition, photographs of the newly consolidated structures are important to the history of the sacbe and the ancient cities. The GPS receiver used for this survey was a Magellan eXplorist, and the cameras were now digital. The second archaeo-engineering survey was carried out by a team of two professionals: me and anthropologist Carol Smith. The goal was to take GPS readings and photograph the recently consolidated sacbe and structures at Yaxuná. The observation tour initiated at Cobá and followed the same pattern as the 1995 survey.
1. Survey Location No. 1: The terminus at Cobá. The condition of the terminus sacbe had been altered. The end of the road had been consolidated. All other elements at the terminus were the same. GPS readings and photographs were recorded.
2. Survey location No. 2: The intersection with Sacbe No. 3. The condition of the intersection and pyramid had not changed since 1995. GPS readings and photos were recorded at this location.
3. Survey location No. 3: The intersection of Yaxuná–Cobá sacbe and Highway 195. The sacbe cross-section was overgrown with vegetation, but the condition of the structure had not changed.
4. Survey location No. 4: The terminus at Yaxuná. The appearance of the site had changed dramatically since 1995. The majority of the site structures had been consolidated, including the use of painted stucco on the surface of the structures. The quadratic terminus building had been restored; the sacbe had been reconstructed and paved as it ramps up onto the structure. GPS readings and photos were recorded at this location.
The results of the GPS readings at all points were identical to the readings taken with the Trimble in 1995. It appeared that while the technology had changed, the results were the same.
The 2001 Aerial Survey of the Cobá to Yaxuná Sacbe
The 1995 and 2000 surveys were ground-based and traversed critical sections of the sacbe to verify the alignment, positioning, and technological constructions. After the year 2000, remote sensing by satellite photos for the area between Cobá and Yaxuná was commercially available. However, cloud cover on the mosaic satellite images obscured much of the route and did not permit sufficient clarity to detect the alignment of the road beneath the cloud covered expanse.
The remote-sensing photographs were not an option, due to their obscurity in order to visually trace the route. It was determined to fly an aircraft at low levels along the route of the sacbe from Cobá toward Yaxuná. The goal was to photograph the alignment and structure along the 100-kilometer route. Though I hold a private pilot license, it was decided to lease a chartered twin Cessna from Cancun International Airport. Flying an aircraft with your knees while photographing is a young man’s game.
The flight took off from Cancun International and turned southwest toward Cobá. As we neared Cobá and the tall pyramid of Nohuch Mul approached, the pilot punched Yaxuná’s global coordinates into his avionic system and set the Cessna on autopilot. As the aircraft slowly banked to the west, we flew over the terminus of Sacbe No. 1 and set a westerly course for Yaxuná. The sleek Cessna followed the course established by signals beamed from the manmade celestial bodies orbiting the earth. It was ironic that our pathway would be led by the same philosophy that guided the ancient Maya. However, ours was a digital signal and not cosmic.
I was surprised how the sacbe revealed its course in various ways. The rainforest had been cut for agricultural purposes along lengths of the sacbe. Grass-covered fields prepared for cattle ranches extended to a line of tall trees that were approximately 10 meters in width on the south side the grassy glades. The pathway of the sacbe was clearly marked by the line of trees that extended to the horizon (Figure C-21). Beneath the trees lay a 10-meter-wide and 1-meter-tall mass of stone and concrete, more trouble to remove than to leave in place. This left the concrete structure and the trees on the sacbe. The tall trees were the markers for the ancient roadway traversing the terrain. The aerial photograph Figure C-21 clearly indicates the alignment of the road from Cobá to Yaxuná.
The sun glinted from the white stucco on the monumental structures as we neared Yaxuná. The ancient road and its elevated terminus clearly marked the restored sacbe climbing up the terminus structure. The aircraft orbited the site several times, photographing the sacbe, and then turned due east toward Cobá. Returning along the ancient sacbe route, the pattern of the ancient road replicated itself. Soon Nohuch Mul appeared on the horizon and we crossed over Cobá’s lakes. Our aircraft then turned toward Cancun International Airport and home base.
Comparison of the Technologies of Survey Equipment
It is interesting to note the great difference in technology achieved between the dates of each survey date. It was assumed that the leap in technology between 1934 and 1995 would make a vast difference in capabilities, and so it was. No longer did we labor with a line of sight survey and machetes; the GPS freed us from the tortuous trek. However, the difference in technology during the short period between 1995 and 2000 was surprising not only because of the advances in survey equipment, but also of that in cameras and cell phones. Our GPS receiver in 1995 was
a relatively large, handheld device with an antenna consisting of a long wire lead. It required acquiring signals from a minimum of three satellites to receive a reading of a two-dimensional global position, and signals from four satellites to receive the ground elevation. In 1995, the wait time to receive signals from three coincidental satellites in the Yucatán was lengthy. During that time period, not many satellites were over passing the Yucatán. We’d receive one signal, then two, then zero, then one—and so on until an hour had passed and the screen indicated acquisition of three signals. Success! We hooted and hollered, “We got three!” There on the screen was our global positioning reading. This lengthy sequence took place at all four locations of the survey. Our cameras used high-speed-film and our cell phones were attached to our cars back home.
The GPS readings in 2000 verified the readings recorded in 1995 with similar coordinates relative to the alignment of the road. It is here that we note the advances in technology that occurred in the five-year period. The GPS receiver used in 2000 was a Magellan eXplorer. In addition to providing global positioning coordinates, this small, handheld device had many other features of significance to the archaeo-engineer in the acquisition of signals. In 2000, we acquired the signals from six satellites in five minutes rather than the hour-long wait in 1995. In addition, technology advances enabled our use of digital cameras and laptop computers, versus the celluloid-based cameras used in 1995. Our telephones were in our pockets rather than patiently waiting for us at home.
The loop had been closed. Villa’s courageous and legendary survey trail in 1934 and the O’Kon surveys of 1995, 2000, and 2001 had confirmed and verified that the sacbe was a monumental engineering effort. Our intentions had been the same while the available technology had changed. We relied on celestial orientation for positioning our strategic points, and celestial navigation to fly the route. It is interesting to note that Maya engineers used the fixed points of the cosmos for celestial positioning, and we relied on celestial guidance of the digital kind.
The Lost Secrets of Maya Technology Page 22