1 tbsp (12 ml) vegetable oil, plus more for frying
¾ cup + 3 tbsp (93 g) all-purpose flour
Powdered sugar, for dusting
When I first came to Italy, I tried my first fried fritter made by my mother-in-law. Crunchy and sweet with that sprinkle of sugar, one of these fritters is never enough. I add a little Grand Marnier for a bit of a kick, and they are gone in minutes. You don’t have to wait for Carnevale—you can make these anytime.
In a medium bowl, combine the egg, granulated sugar, Grand Marnier and oil. Add the flour a little at a time and combine. When the mixture is almost combined, transfer it to a work surface and knead until the dough is smooth. Wrap the dough in plastic and let it rest for 30 minutes at room temperature.
Cut the dough into 4 pieces. Roll each piece either by hand or with the help of a pasta machine until it is 1/16 inch (2 mm) thick. Cut each piece into strips. Place the cut strips on a lightly floured work surface and repeat this process until all the dough has been rolled and cut.
Fill a large pot with 2 to 3 inches (5 to 8 cm) vegetable oil. Bring the oil to 330°F (166°C), then fry the dough strips a few at a time, turning them a few times until they are golden on both sides. Drain them on a plate lined with paper towels. Dust the fritters with powdered sugar before serving. These are best eaten fresh.
Note: If you prefer baked fritters, place the strips on a large baking sheet lined with parchment paper and bake in a preheated 400°F (204°C) oven for 8 to 10 minutes, or until golden.
CROCCANTE ALLE MANDORLE
Almond Crunch
Makes 8 to 10 pieces
1 cup + 2 tbsp (192 g) skinned almonds
¾ cup + 1½ tbsp (162 g) granulated sugar
½ tsp fresh lemon juice
½ tbsp (8 ml) water
In Canada, my mom would make this recipe every Christmas for my dad, except she made it with peanuts and it was called peanut brittle. Well, the Italians have their own version, which they make with almonds. My husband loves it—it’s crunchy, sweet and full of almonds.
Preheat the oven to 350° (177°C), and line a 10 x 14-inch (24 x 10-cm) baking sheet with parchment paper.
Place the almonds on the prepared baking sheet and bake for 5 minutes. Let the almonds cool, then chop them into large pieces.
In a medium pot over low heat, combine the sugar, lemon juice and water. Bring the mixture to 335°F (168°C) on a candy thermometer, approximately 15 to 20 minutes. Remove the mixture from the heat, add the chopped almonds and combine. Pour the mixture onto the prepared baking sheet and spread it evenly. Let the mixture cool 5 minutes, then cut it into pieces on a wooden board. Let the almond crunch cool completely before serving.
Store the cooled crunch in an airtight container in a cool, dry area.
REGIONI
Regional
There are twenty regions in Italy, and every region has its own dish, whether that be appetizer, main dish, pasta or dessert. And as Italians already know, every city or town has its own way of making their regional dish. From the north to the south, you can find anything and everything delicious. I chose a few of the most popular among my friends and family to share, and I hope you enjoy them too.
PIEDMONT: BICCHIERINI DI PANNA COTTA AL FRUTTI DI BOSCO
Wild Berry Panna Cotta
Makes 6 to 8 servings
Panna Cotta
2 tbsp (30 ml) cold water
1 tbsp (14 g) powdered gelatin
4 cups (960 ml) heavy cream or whipping cream
¼ cup + 2 tbsp (60 g) granulated sugar
1 tsp vanilla extract
Grated chocolate, for serving (optional)
Berry Sauce
2 cups (303 g) fresh or frozen mixed berries
¾ cup (144 g) granulated sugar
1 tbsp (9 g) cornstarch
¼ cup (60 ml) water
1 tbsp (15 ml) fresh lemon juice
It has been a long time since I first tried panna cotta, and I honestly do not know why I didn’t try it sooner. Italians eat it often, and now I know why. Panna cotta, which literally means cooked cream, was first invented in Northern Italy in the Piedmont region. Sometimes it’s served with a caramel or chocolate sauce, but ususally with an in-season fruit sauce.
To make the panna cotta, pour the cold water into a small pot. Sprinkle the gelatin on top of the water and let it stand for 1 minute. Heat the mixture over low heat just until the gelatin has dissolved, 30 to 60 seconds. Remove the pot from the heat.
In a large pot, combine the heavy cream, sugar and vanilla. Heat over medium-low heat just until the cream starts to boil; as soon as you see it start to boil, immediately remove it from the heat. Add the gelatin mixture, stirring to combine. Divide the mixture in 6 to 8 heatproof, tall glasses or dessert bowls. Let the panna cotta cool, then cover the glasses with plastic and refrigerate at least 5 hours or overnight.
A few hours before you plan to serve the panna cotta, make the berry sauce. In a medium pot over medium-low heat, combine the berries, sugar, cornstarch, water and lemon juice. Bring the mixture to a boil, lower the heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until thickened, 5 to 7 minutes. Pour the berry sauce into a medium bowl. Let the sauce cool, then cover it with plastic and refrigerate for a few hours.
Top the panna cotta with the berry sauce and grated chocolate (if using), and serve.
SICILY: CANNOLI FRITTI
Fried Cannoli
Makes 12 to 15 cannoli
Ricotta Filling
2⅔ to 3 cups (327 to 369 g) ricotta cheese
½ cup (96 g) granulated sugar
¼ cup (45 g) mini dark chocolate chips, plus more for serving
Cannoli Dough
1½ cups (150 g) all-purpose flour
2 tbsp (24 g) granulated sugar
1 tbsp (7 g) unsweetened cocoa powder
Pinch of salt
1 medium egg
2½ tbsp (35 g) butter, melted
¼ cup (60 ml) dry white wine
1 large egg yolk, beaten
Vegetable oil, for frying
Powdered sugar, for dusting
I once asked my husband what his favorite Italian sweet was and, of course, he replied that tiramisu was number one and cannoli was his second favorite. Everyone—and I mean everyone—goes crazy for cannoli, a crunchy pastry filled with a slightly sweet ricotta and chocolate chip filling. Cannoli originated in Palermo in the region of Sicily, which is in the south of Italy. It is actually an island and is approximately 3 km from the mainland. They were originally made for the Carnival time but they became so popular that they were then served year round. Note that this recipe requires some time to complete, as the ricotta has to drain for 24 hours, so be sure to plan ahead.
To make the ricotta filling, place the ricotta cheese in a sieve over a medium bowl and refrigerate for 24 hours. (It has to drain as long as possible to remove excess moisture.) Remove the ricotta from the fridge and, using a spatula over another medium bowl, push the ricotta through the sieve into the bowl (this helps make it nice and creamy). Add the granulated sugar a little at a time and combine. Test the cheese for sweetness; add more if needed. Fold in the chocolate chips. Place the filling in a pastry bag with a large tip.
To make the cannoli dough, whisk together the flour, granulated sugar, cocoa powder and salt in a large bowl. Make a well in the center and add the egg and butter, mixing the ingredients together with a fork. Slowly add the wine and mix to combine, starting with a fork and then using your hands until you have a compact dough. Place the dough on a work surface and cover it with a clean tea towel. Let the dough rest for 30 minutes.
Roll the dough into flat, ⅛-inch (3-mm)-thick circles. Wrap the circles around cannoli cylinders.
Fill a large pot with 2 to 3 inches (5 to 8 cm) vegetable oil. Bring the oil to 330°F (166°C), and fry the cannoli 2 or 3 at a time, turning a few times until the pastry has swelled and is golden in color, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer the cannoli to a plate lined with paper towel
s to drain. Once the cannoli are cool, gently remove the cylinders.
Fill the cannoli with the ricotta filling. Dust them with the powdered sugar and top them with additional chocolate chips. Serve immediately.
LAZIO: CASTAGNOLE ALLA RICOTTA
Ricotta Sweet Balls
Makes 16 to 17 sweet balls
¾ cup + 1½ tbsp (84 g) all-purpose flour
2½ tbsp (23 g) cornstarch
1 tsp baking powder
3 tbsp (36 g) granulated sugar, plus more for rolling
Zest of 1 orange or lemon
¼ cup + 1 tbsp (39 g) ricotta cheese, well drained
2 tbsp (28 g) butter, melted
1 large egg yolk
1 tbsp (15 ml) fresh orange juice or lemon juice
Vegetable oil, for frying
In Lazio, you know it is almost Carnival time when everywhere you look there are castagnole, a small sweet dough ball usually deep-fried and rolled in sugar. My recipe makes sweet balls that are nice and soft because of the ricotta cheese. And the slight orange flavor is just what they need. I love to make my own once or twice during the festive two weeks.
In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, cornstarch, baking powder, sugar and orange zest. Make a well in the center and add the ricotta cheese, butter, egg yolk and orange juice, slowly mixing the ingredients together. When the ingredients are almost combined, transfer the mixture to a work surface and knead to form a smooth dough. Form the dough into a ball, wrap it in plastic and let it rest at room temperature for 25 minutes.
Fill a large pot with 2 to 3 inches (5 to 8 cm) of vegetable oil. Bring the oil to 330°F (166°C); do not go any higher or the dough will not cook on the inside. Put the additional sugar in a shallow dish and set aside.
While the oil is heating, take small pieces of dough and roll them into balls. (It helps to keep your hands lightly floured so the dough doesn’t stick.) Fry the sweet balls a few at a time, turning them a few times until completely golden, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer them to a plate lined with paper towels to drain. While they are still warm, roll them in the additional sugar and serve immediately.
TOSCANA: TORTA DELLA NONNA
Grandmother’s Cake
Makes 1 (8- or 9-inch [20- or 23-cm]) cake
Dough
2 cups (200 g) all-purpose flour
½ cup (96 g) granulated sugar
½ tsp baking powder
Pinch of salt
Zest of 1 lemon
2 large eggs
½ cup + 2 tbsp (143 g) butter
Filling
3 large egg yolks
½ cup (96 g) granulated sugar
¼ cup (25 g) all-purpose flour
2 cups + 3½ tbsp (533 ml) 2% milk, divided
1 tsp vanilla extract
Peel of 1 lemon (with as little pith as possible)
Topping
Milk, as needed
Sliced almonds or pine nuts, as needed
Powdered sugar, for dusting
Everyone in Italy makes a Torta della Nonna, which is one of our friends’ favorites: a rich pie from northern Italy usually made in the cooler months. It may take a little more time to make, but I think you will agree that this dessert is well worth it.
To make the dough, whisk together the flour, granulated sugar, baking powder, salt and lemon zest in a large bowl. Make a well in the center and add the eggs and butter. Mix the ingredients together with a fork until the dough is almost combined. Transfer the dough to a work surface and knead it gently until it is soft. Wrap it in plastic and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
While the dough is chilling, make the filling. In a medium pot, whisk together the egg yolks and granulated sugar, then add the flour and 3½ tablespoons (53 ml) of the milk. Whisk until smooth, then add the remaining 2 cups (480 ml) of milk, vanilla and lemon peel. Place the pot over medium-low heat, stirring constantly until the mixture thickens, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove and discard the lemon peel and pour the pastry cream into a medium bowl. Cover the bowl with plastic, making sure the plastic touches the top of the cream. Let the filling cool completely.
Preheat the oven to 350°F (177°C), then grease and flour an 8- or 9-inch (20- or 23-cm) pie plate or springform pan. Remove the dough from the fridge, then cut it into two equal pieces. Roll one piece at a time into a circle large enough to cover the size of the pan. Place one circle on the bottom of the pie plate. Prick the dough with a fork, pour the filling evenly on top of the dough, place the second dough circle on top, pinch the edges closed and remove any extra dough.
To make the topping, brush the top of the dough with the milk and sprinkle it with the sliced almonds. Bake 30 to 40 minutes, or until the crust is golden brown. Let the cake cool completely, then refrigerate it for 2 hours. Dust it with powdered sugar before serving.
CAPRI ISLAND: TORTA CAPRESE
Capri Cake
Makes 1 (8-inch [20-cm]) tart
4½ oz (126 g) dark chocolate
½ cup (115 g) butter
2 large eggs, separated
½ cup (96 g) granulated sugar, divided
1 cup + 1½ tbsp (105 g) almond flour
1 tsp baking powder
Pinch of salt
Powdered sugar and grated white chocolate, for garnishing
I have never been to Capri, which is an island about 5 km from the mainland, but after eating this cake I would certainly love to go. And since this is gluten-free, everyone can have a slice.
Preheat the oven to 350°F (177°C), then grease and flour an 8-inch (20-cm) springform pan.
In a small pot over medium-low heat, melt the dark chocolate and butter, stirring to combine until smooth. Remove the pot from the heat and let the chocolate mixture cool.
In a medium bowl, beat the egg whites and 2 tablespoons (24 g) of the granulated sugar until stiff peaks appear, 2 to 3 minutes.
In a large bowl, beat together the egg yolks and the remaining ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons (72 g) of the granulated sugar until light and fluffy, approximately 5 minutes. Add the melted chocolate and gently stir with a wooden spoon until combined. Add the flour, baking powder and salt, stirring gently until combined. Fold in the egg whites. Spoon the batter into the prepared pan and bake for 35 to 40 minutes. Let the cake cool, then dust it with the powdered sugar and white chocolate before serving.
LAZIO: MARITOZZI
Whipped Cream-Filled Soft Yeast Buns
Makes 4 buns
Buns
1⅓ cups (133 g) all-purpose flour
1¼ tsp (4 g) active dry yeast
4 tbsp (60 ml) milk, at room temperature, divided
3 tbsp (45 ml) vegetable oil
1 medium egg
3 tbsp (36 g) granulated sugar
Pinch of salt
1 large egg yolk
1 tbsp (15 ml) water
Sugar Syrup
1½ tbsp (18 g) granulated sugar
6 tbsp (90 ml) water
Whipped cream, as needed
I have fond memories of late summer evenings when we would decide on a whim to go to the pastry factory in the neighboring town to get some fresh maritozzi. There was nothing like that soft, delicious bun filled with sweet, fresh whipped cream. Believe me, you could never stop at just one. The next best thing is making them yourself!
Place the flour in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the hook attachment. In the middle of the flour, add the yeast and 1½ tablespoons (23 ml) of the milk. Start to mix on low, add the oil, egg, sugar, salt and the remaining 2½ tablespoons (38 ml) of milk. Mix for approximately 15 minutes, scraping the hook and the sides of the bowl halfway through. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface and form it into a ball. Place the dough in a lightly oiled bowl and cover the bowl with plastic and a clean kitchen towel. Let the dough rise in a warm, draft-free area for 2 to 3 hours, or until it has doubled in size.
Preheat the oven to 350°F (177°C), and line a 10 x 14-inch (24 x 10-cm) baking sheet with parchment paper.
Divide the
dough into 4 pieces. Form each piece into an oval and place them on the prepared baking sheet approximately 2 inches (5 cm) apart. Cover the buns with a clean tea towel and let them rise 1 to 2 hours, or until they have doubled in size.
In a small bowl, whisk together the egg yolk and water to form an egg wash. Brush the buns with the egg wash. Bake the buns for 15 to 18 minutes.
While the buns are baking, make the sugar syrup. In a small pot over medium heat, combine the sugar and water. Simmer for approximately 5 minutes, until the sugar dissolves.
Remove the buns from the oven. While they are still warm, brush them with the sugar syrup. When they are cool, cut them in the middle and fill them with the whipped cream.
ACKNOWLEGMENTS
To my husband, Carlo, my friend and life partner: You try anything and everything I make, give me advice and encourage me in everything I do, even when I don’t want it. Ti Amo.
To my amazing girls, Erika and Vanessa: Where would I be without you two? I thank you and apologize at the same time for being a little bit crazy in the kitchen. Thank you for all your encouragement and willingness to taste anything and everything. I love you more than anything.
To my parents, who are dearly missed: my mom, who was an amazing baker and got me started on my love of baking and cooking; and to my dad, thank you for teaching me at an early age that I could do and be anything I wanted.
To my sisters, Leona and Sheila, who have always encouraged me in this awesome adventure, and to Kathi, who I know would be so proud if she were here. A special thank-you goes to my gorgeous nieces, Lisa, Laura, Kimberley, Audrey, Kenesha, Amanda and Sarah, who are always eager to eat my desserts.
To my cousin Janet, who was the best recipe tester ever. Thanks so much—love you.
Authentic Italian Desserts Page 8