The Rabelais quotation is from Book I.11. The quotation from Lévi-Strauss: The Origin of Table Manners, 503–04. Rude to rejoice in gristle: Athenaeus 8.347d-e. The facial muscles that express disgust: see Izard, 243. On expectations of competency at the dinner table, Goffman (1971).
Pollution (pp. 334–344)
The stories from Homer’s Odyssey, of pollution expressed by the bending of natural laws, are in Books 12 and 20. Indian rules to protect eating from pollution are to be found, e.g., in Carstairs, Das, Dumont, Khare, Harper, Freed, and Sinclair-Stevenson; in Ceylon: Yalman; among the Jains: Mahias (who provides photographs), 77, 218, 231. Clay vessels smashed by ancient Indians: S. Wolpert, A New History of India (New York: Oxford University Press, 1977), 17. For the experiment with the fly-swatter, P. Rozin. See L. Wright, on the history of cleanliness in the cultures of western Europe and North America. The Parisian convives who flung asparagus ends over their shoulders: Crapouillot. “I always eat these things with the peel on”: Chang, 311.
The Rules and Regulations of the Mouth (pp. 344–363)
Eating is sacred, silence is respectful: see, e.g., Walens, 88, 91, 95. “Germans chew with their mouths closed …”: quoted by Bonnet, 100. On the symbolism of tears versus rheum, and for much else in this chapter, see Douglas (1966). “Ethnic” food is becoming more and more ordinary: van Otterloo. Sagaris the lazy: Athenaeus, 12.530c. “Not to offer a pear …”: della Casa, 7. Opening the mouth only just before food enters it: see, e.g., Anon., 1879. Post on ejecting bones and stones from the mouth: (1931), 621–22; (1945), 489–90. On male versus female ways of eating: Bourdieu, 190–91. How to deal with a scalding mouthful, in seventeenth-century France: Bonnet, 100; in eighteenth-century France: Garrisson, 58. Barthes on Japanese food: 11–26. Branchereau on egg-mashing: 197–98; Newn-ham-Davis on egg-drinking: 233. The well-behaved Greek courtesan: Athenaeus, 13.571f–72a. On noiseless chewing: Erasmus, 284.
“If any man speak that time to thee …”: Furnivall (1908), 179. Ejecting food and running when father calls: Anon., Li Chi, 24. Not licking a dusty plate: Russell (Furnivall, 1868), 19. Mrs. Humphry on picking bones, 69. The Abbasid gentleman and the spoons: Ahsan, 163. For saliva superstitions in ancient Rome, see F. W. Nicolson. Greedy Demylos: Athenaeus, 8.345c. On spitting rules in seventeenth-century Holland: Spierenburg, 12. The ancient Persians refused to spit: Xenophon, Cyropaedia I.ii.16, Herodotus, I.99, 138; neither would they vomit or urinate in front of others: Athenaeus, 4.144a. Spittoons in Chinese restaurants: E. Cooper, 181. On the English smoking (and spitting) chair: Gloag, 187–88. The ancient Chinese were taught not to cool rice by spreading it out: Chang, 39; Chinese servants must not breathe on food they are carrying: Anon., Li Chi, 80–81. The Rules of Civility, copied out by George Washington, are printed in Conway. The Chinese cover a toothpick in use, with one hand: E. Cooper, 181. The Boke of Curtasye and Rhodes’s Boke of Nurture are in Furnivall (1868), 83 ff., and (1908), 136 ff. On Kwakiutl attitudes to aggressive behaviour at meals: Walens, 95. Rinsing the mouth after dinner: Branchereau 192, de la Rochefoucauld-Liancourt, 29, Simond, 49, and Mrs Beeton, 13.
The Proprieties of Posture and Demeanour (pp. 363–375)
Norbert Elias uses manners books as evidence for increasing bodily self-control in our culture since the sixteenth century. Not rolling the eyes up during grace: Bonnet, 102. William Pitt and Colonel Forrester are quoted by J. E. Mason, 97, 271; cf. Heltzel. Handy, on slouching: 46; Post: (1931), 621. On seventeenth-century disgust at seeing a diner with a filthy napkin: Flandrin (1986), 272. Quotation from Ecclesiasticus: 31: 13–16. On modern Latin American manners: Townsend, 36. Athenaeus, on greedy people not talking in order to eat more: 10.421d. Post on training children to control hands and posture: (1931), 718. The Young Scholar’s Paradise is in Furnivall (1908) (see p. 169); the first Boke of Curtasye: Furnivall (1868) (see p. 180). “Nor look thereon …”: Rhodes, Furnivall (1908), 139. George Washington’s rules of etiquette: Conway. Hiccuping, among the Tanga: Bell, 73; burping, among the Pedi: Quin, 142; in Hugh Rhodes: Furnivall (1908), 135. On the emperor Claudius’ desire to permit farting: Suetonius, Claudius, 32. See further Franklin’s Appendix, Sur les flatuosités (1908), II, 65–71. Carl Ludwig on the “green sickness” is quoted by Sennett, 182. Ecclesiasticus on vomiting: 31: 25. Chamber pots invented by the Sybarites: Athenaeus 12.5l9e. On the English and their chamber pots in the dining room, Simond, 49: see also Faujas de Saint Fond (1784); they were used by the toasting gentlemen after the ladies had left.
Postscript: How Rude Are We? (pp. 376–396)
“The best way to use a napkin …”: O’Rourke, 45. Mary Douglas on intricacy: Douglas and Gross, 1981. On tu/vous pronouns: Brown and Gilman. On invitations to “drinks” not necessarily denoting intimacy: Douglas (1972), 65–66. Riesman et al describe the problems, for a modern host, of a large impersonal party. Homer on the Suitors’ feasting in the Odyssey: 16. 108–10. The rituals at McDonald’s are described by Kottak. “Physical trespasses, such as …”: Annett and Collins, 164. “The perfect example of a formal dinner table …”: Post (1922), 178, 198, 201, 235. On servants in North America, see Katzman. Platinum-finished silverware accepted: Post (1931), 701; not introducing servants to guests: (1945), 13. See Mintz, Ch. 5, on the pressures of No Time, and Cowan on Keeping Clean.
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