The Rituals of Dinner

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by Visser, Margaret


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  Index

  A

  Abbasids, 160, 189, 192, 248, 354

  Aborigines, Australian, 258

  Abraham, 106

  Accidents at meals, 252–53

  Adler, Elizabeth, 196–97

  Africans, 56, 58–59, 61, 92, 93–94, 159, 170, 196, 201, 271, 295, 309–10, 324, 373, See also individual countries, tribes

  “Agogos,” 85

  Ainus, 161, 327

  Airline dinners, 185, 230–33

  A la française, dinners, 222–26, 228, 229, 230, 231, 250, 301

  A l’allemande, dinners, 227

  A la russe, dinners, 227–29, 232, 269, 283, 301, 313, 387

  Alcohol, 55, 135, 272–73, 275, 278, 281, 283, 295, 311, 318, 323, 382

  Ale. See Beer

  Alexander the Great, King, 112, 286

  Alone, eating, 21, 55, 92, 98, 150, 310

  Ambigu, 228

  Americans, Latin, 148, 329, 368

  Americans, North, 2–3, 23–24, 38–39, 52, 55, 59, 61–62, 85–90, 100, 127, 130, 136, 139, 144, 148, 151, 160, 165, 179, 180, 189, 194, 207, 211, 215–18, 219, 222, 228, 241, 252, 270, 276, 292, 296, 314, 317, 320, 322, 325, 341, 346, 350, 357, 361–62

  Amphitryon, 108, 110, 268. See also Hosts and guests

  Anderson, E.N. Jr. and M.L., 206

  Andréani, Ghislaine, 220

  Animals, 25, 27, 28, 106; bad-mannered people compared to, 73, 76, 85, 106, 194–95, 283, 353, 364, 365, 366. See also individual animals

  Anise, 225, 362

  Anorexia, 247

  Apéritif, 135–36

  Aphrodisiac, 135

  Apollinaire, Guillaume, 289

  Apologizing, 135, 243, 247, 372

  Appadurai, Arjun, 55, 143

  Appreciation, showing, 2, 244–45, 247, 248, 252, 253, 373. See also Praising; Belching; Slurping; Smacking lips

  Apricots, 194

  Arabs, 100, 127–29, 142, 150, 160, 189, 190, 1
91–93, 194, 197, 201, 219, 244, 248, 252, 328, 329, 373. See also Abbasids; United Arab Emirates; Egyptians; Rwala Bedouin

  Arawaks, 9–10

  Archaism, and manners, 38–39, 200, 240

  Areca nut, 324

  Arens, W., 11

  Aristotle, 72, 279

  Aron, Jean-Paul, 223

  Artichokes, 26, 213

  Artus, Thomas, 213

  Asking for food, drink, 55, 63, 227, 248, 311, 368

  Asparagus, 194, 213, 342

  Assamese, 93, 312, 322

  Assiette, 199, 214

  Assyrians, 172

  Athenaeus, 112, 120, 173, 187, 252, 294, 332, 368, 374

  Attention, paying, 142, 146, 163, 225, 248, 274–75, 280, 281, 368, 390; drawing to oneself, 341–42, 349, 355, 358, 367, 371. See also Tapping a glass; Inattention

  Audience, watching feasts, 113, 147, 301, 312, 319–20

  Austen, Jane, 179

  Austrians, 211–12

  Aztecs, 11–14, 16–17, 18, 20, 23

  B

  The Babees’ Book, 72

  Baldrige, Letitia, 290

  Bananas, 16, 54, 342

  Banquets, 166–67, 170, 225; Chinese, 243; banqueting house, 113, 165–66. See also Feasts

  Barbecue, 257

  Barley, 42

  Barthes, Roland, 202, 203, 204, 205, 350

  Beans, 99, 213

  Beef, 112, 267, 268, 312, 337; “Beef lesson,” 271

  Beer, 37, 127, 136, 271, 278, 282–83, 286, 294, 310

  Beeton, Isabella, 266, 269, 363

  Belching, 60, 68, 76, 246, 342, 372

  Belgians, 320

  Bell, 126, 156–57

  Belt, 282, 371

  Bemba, 37

  Bench, 40, 166, 371

  Benedict, St., 206

  Berndt, Ronald, 22

  de Berry, Duc, 187

  Betel nuts, 322

  Best pieces, taking the, 138, 150, 203, 211, 365

  Birds, great, 262

  Birthdays, 25

  Biting, 196

  Bitten food, 196, 204, 348. See also Breaking food

  Blancmange, 346

  Blood, 15, 18, 43, 106

  Blowing, 358. See also Breath, breathing

  Bogart, Humphrey, 291–92

  Boke of Curtasye, 324, 371

  Bones, 12, 15–16, 17, 22, 85, 190, 254–55, 260, 349, 353, 361, 362

  Bonnet, Jean-Claude, 176

  Bottles, 279, 281

  Bourdieu, Pierre, 349

  Bowing, 126, 127, 128, 189, 280, 281, 285, 292, 311, 313, 317

  Bowls, 214, 218, 219, 234, 322. See also Plates

  Brains, eating, 255, 267, 346

  Branchereau, Louis, 73, 142, 188, 200, 217, 247, 250, 320, 359, 362

  Brandt, Sebastian, 75

  Bread, 7–8, 42, 43, 77, 119–20, 126, 160, 162, 169, 186–87, 192, 196, 200, 208, 209, 210, 213, 233, 234–35, 240, 241, 246, 253, 263, 272, 279, 321, 341, 348, 351; bread basket, 208–9

  Breakfast, 25, 52, 65, 160–61, 168, 171–72, 179, 230, 232, 279–80

  Breaking food, 77, 196, 197, 200, 208, 340, 349

  Breast, eating, 263, 264, 270

  Breast-feeding. See Nursing

  Breath, breathing, 312, 345, 360, 362, 373. See also Blowing, Anise

  Brillat-Savarin, Jean Anthelme, 184

  British, 38–39, 57, 72, 86, 122–23, 126–128, 139, 142, 147, 157, 161–62, 166–67, 168, 178, 179, 185, 195, 199, 208, 211, 212, 213, 217, 219, 223, 224, 230, 240–41, 251–52, 266–68, 269, 270, 283, 284, 286, 287, 288, 289, 290–92, 296, 313, 314–17, 320, 321, 328, 346–47, 350, 357, 361–62, 363–65, 368–69, 373–75

  Buddhists, 204

  Buffet dinners, 168, 228, 338; shelves, 168, 244

  Bulgarians, 126–27, 250

  Bull, Roger, 76

  Bumpers, 289

  Buñuel, Luis, 342

  Burgess, Anthony, 220

  Burgundians, 29, 224, 239, 262

  Burkert, Walter, 260

  Butler, 141, 152, 157, 263, 315, 386

  Butter, 200, 209, 225, 234, 240, 337, 354; butter knife, 354

  Byron, George Gordon, Lord, 270

  C

  Cafés, 140,

  Cake, 38, 166, 211–12; cake fork, 212. See also Wedding cake

  Caliban, 10

  Cambacérès, Archchancellor, 252

  Camel, 258

  Canadians, 248

  Candies, 225

  Candles, 44, 178, 180–81, 182, 183, 222, 225, 235

  Cannibalism, 9–23, 26, 41, 44, 48

  Canopy, 149, 172

  Carême, Antonin, 226

  Caribs, 9–10

  Carving, 39–43, 72, 150, 213, 226, 227, 248, 252, 254–71, 313, 387; Carving master, 268

  Caste, 66 See also Pollution; ritual

  Castiglione, Baldassare, 80–81, 84

  Cats, 187, 341–42

  Ceausescu, Nicolae, 160

  Celery, 200

  Celts, 112, 196

  Cervio, Vincenzo, 264–66

  Cha no yu, 130, 228, 242–43

  Chaga, 57, 62

  Chairs, 3, 59, 61, 111–112, 147, 149–50, 151, 170, 188, 231, 233, 301, 367, 383, 386; empty, 94, 126, 247

  Chamber–pots. See Urinating

  Champagne, 135

  Chancellor, Richard, 162

  Chao, B.Y., 85, 143, 162, 203

  Charles the Bold, King, 29, 224

  Charles, N., and Kerr, M., 56, 57–58, 65

  Charlie, Bonnie Prince, 292

  Chaucer, Geoffrey, 199

  Cheese, 85, 210–11, 279, 312, 320, 321; cheese knife, 85, 210

  Cherries, 342–43

  Chesterfield, Philip Dormer Stanhope, Fourth Earl of, 90, 268, 301

  Chewing, 9 106, 179, 195–96, 200, 347, 350, 352–53, 361–62, 394

  Chewing gum, 361–62

  Chicken, 194, 312

  Children, 48–49, 60, 150, 274–75, 311, 332, 347; at dinner, 126, 143, 149, 160, 190, 197, 247, 248, 254, 270, 300, 308–310, 340; training, 23–24, 47–66, 69, 71, 93–94, 171–72, 190, 192, 194, 202, 203–4, 211, 218, 330–32, 343, 368, 384; use of children’s innocence, 115, 259

  Chimpanzees, 6

  Chin, keeping a clean, 195, 198, 333

  Chinese, 39–40, 78, 100, 118–19, 130–31, 133, 135–36, 143, 162, 163, 176 185–86, 192, 201–6, 221, 233–34, 235, 236, 243–44, 245–47, 248, 249, 250, 280, 281, 282, 283, 284, 295, 308–9, 319, 322, 324–25, 357, 358, 358, 360, 372–73. See also Li Chi

  Chips. See French fries

  Chocolate, chocolates, 38, 126–28, 134

  Chopsticks, 85, 162, 201–6, 233, 241, 295, 312, 319, 322, 361

  Christians, 43, 70–71, 73, 107, 129, 142, 156–57, 160, 186, 287–88. See also Eucharist; Christmas; Last Supper; Jesus Christ

  Christmas, 36, 38, 120, 180, 218, 384

  Claudius, Emperor, 43

  Cleanliness, 1, 23, 127, 129, 184–85, 187–88, 189, 201, 341, 383, 387–88, 394–96. See also Pollution

  Clearing the eating place, 227–28, 273, 319, 322, 324, 340, 348–49, 377, 386

  Clinking. See Tapping

  Clothing, 113, 122, 129–33, 140, 141, 172, 195, 243, 263, 325, 328–29, 338, 381, 383, 385

  Cocktail party, 166–67, 381–82, 394

  Cod, 268

  Coffee, 38, 54, 129, 134–35, 190, 214, 219, 244, 303, 313, 314, 315, 316, 322, 323, 325

  Cola nut, 133–34, 158–60

  Colefax, Lady Sybil, 122

  Collation, 296

  Columbus, Christopher, 9–11

  Companionship, 8, 131, 133–34, 137–38, 232, 233, 272–78, 281

  Competence, 23–26, 84–85, 90, 172, 205–6, 228, 273, 274–75, 280–81, 332–33, 367, 381, 390, 394–96

  Condiments, 182, 231, 350. See Salt

  Consideration. See Attention

  Conventions, 3, 25, 26, 27, 119, 121–22, 385

  Conversation. See Talking

  Cookies, 196

  Cooking, cooks, 7, 20–22, 23, 89–92
, 93, 94, 113, 114, 126, 133, 143, 150, 160, 165, 180, 190, 205–6, 221, 230, 247, 257, 258, 259, 260, 270, 303–11, 312, 318, 337, 339–40, 350, 386, 391–92

  Cooperation, 194, 203–4, 281, 290. See Sharing

  Corn (maize), 13–15, 16, 194–95

  Coryat, Thomas, 213

  Cosmos, meal symbolizes, 156, 220

  Couches, 156–57, 173. See also Lying down

  Coughing, 369, 372, 373

  Courses, 169, 177, 222–28, 231, 232–33, 241, 248

  The Court of civill Courtesie, 144, 248, 290, 347–48, 373

  Courtesans, 129, 277, 306

  Courtesy, 68, 69–70

  de Courtin, Antoine, 70–71, 213

  Coverings, 158, 231, 234, 395

  Covers. See Coverings; Place settings

  Crab, 266–67

  Cramming the mouth, 195, 203–4, 215, 350–53, 371

  Crater, 273, 280

  Crayfish, 183–84, 200

  Credenza, 157, 266, 268–69, 301

  Criticizing, 246–47

  Cruet stands, 183

  Cup–bearer, 263, 283, 286

  Cups, 43–44, 169, 190, 192, 198–99, 204–5, 218–20, 243, 273, 280, 281, 286, 338. See also Loving cup

  Curry, 85

  Curses, 261–63

  Cushions, 107, 176

  Cutlery, 58, 190, 194–95, 198–99, 202–6, 213, 218, 231, 233, 240, 241, 243, 276, 286, 395. See also Knife, Fork, Spoon

  Cutting, 195–96, 198–99, 205–6. See also Carving

  Czechoslovakia, 320

  D

  Damian, St. Peter, 213

  Dancing, 136, 274–75

  Danes, 250, 303, 320

  Death to the diner, 5, 109–10, 137, 180, 185, 204–5, 210, 261, 319; reminders of, 126–28, 156. See also Violence

  Decorations, 130, 131, 132, 151, 178, 181–84, 222, 224–25, 240, 301

  Dedekind, Friederich, 75

  Deetz, James, 217

  Deference, 86, 126–28, 129, 142–43, 151, 152, 271. See also Honour, Bowing

  Delicacies, given as honour, 120, 242, 253, 329

  Della Casa, Giovanni. See Galateo

  Dessert, 88, 165–67, 177, 214, 223, 225, 228, 230, 232, 304, 319, 320–21; dessert setting, 320–22

  Díaz del Castillo, Bernal, 15

  Dickens, Charles, 35, 178, 217, 289–90, 314, 332

  Dieting, 53, 100, 364

  Difficulty of table manners, 83–86, 190, 204, 211, 217–18, 274–75

  Digestif, 135–36

  Dining room, 93–94, 156, 164–65, 172–73, 306. See also Triclinium

  Dinner, 135–36, 179, 232

  Dionysus, 280, 310–11

  Dioscorides, 279

  Dipping, 197–99, 200, 235, 248

 

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