Ultimate Worst-Case Scenario Survival Handbook

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Ultimate Worst-Case Scenario Survival Handbook Page 34

by David Borgenicht


  7 Take a pain reliever such as aspirin or ibuprofen during rewarming to lessen the pain.

  Rewarming will be accompanied by a severe burning sensation. There may be skin blistering and soft tissue swelling, and the skin may turn red, blue, or purple in color. When skin is pink and no longer numb, the area is thawed.

  8 Apply sterile dressings to the affected areas.

  Place the dressing between fingers or toes if they have been affected. Try not to disturb any blisters, wrap rewarmed areas to prevent refreezing, and have the patient keep thawed areas as still as possible.

  After thawing the skin in warm water, sensation will return and it may be painful. Apply sterile dressings to the affected areas, placing it between toes or fingers if they have been frostbitten. Severe frostbite may cause the skin to blister or swell. Wrap area to prevent refreezing, and seek medical treatment.

  9 Get medical treatment as soon as possible.

  WARNING!

  Frostbite is a condition caused by the freezing of water molecules in skin cells and occurs in very cold temperatures. It is characterized by white, waxy skin that feels numb and hard. More severe cases result in a bluish-black skin color, and the most severe cases result in gangrene, which may lead to amputation. Affected areas are generally fingertips and toes, and the nose, ears, and cheeks. Frostbite should be treated by a medical professional.

  HOW TO BUILD A TRAIL IN WAIST-DEEP SNOW

  Read the terrain before choosing a route.

  In the mountains, perfectly flat expanses of snow can indicate a body of water underneath. Where possible, follow a path made up of slight inclines next to steeper slopes, to minimize the possibility of traversing incompletely frozen ponds or lakes. Never walk within five feet of a precipice, as snow can drift to form unstable cornices that overhang solid ground by several feet.

  Favor hard snow.

  Hard snow tends to be shiny, with light reflecting off its upper crust. It will bear your weight better than soft, powdery snow.

  Make your footprint bigger to minimize sinking.

  Wear snowshoes, or wrap rags and bundles of sticks around your legs. If you don’t have snowshoes and cannot locate natural materials to make your own, wrap your legs in extra clothes, a torn tarp, or another material that will help prevent your pants from becoming waterlogged, which would increase the potential for frostbite and hypothermia.

  Use walking poles or a stick to probe the ground in front of you.

  If the tips break through the ice, walk backward several paces, retracing your footsteps. Survey your surroundings, then choose another route.

  Take small steps.

  As you progress, tamp down the snow forcefully with your feet and knees to make the trail more permanent.

  When in a group, walk in a single-file line.

  Because breaking trail requires far more energy than walking over a firm path, share the effort by rotating the leader to the back of the line every 15 minutes. Switching frequently will minimize water lost through perspiration by any one member of the group, ultimately conserving fluids for all and preventing unwanted sweat from cooling the body too rapidly.

  ARCTIC

  * * *

  * * *

  HOW TO SURVIVE ON ICE UNTIL THE RESCUE PARTY ARRIVES

  Wear several layers of loose clothing.

  While exposure is the obvious danger in an arctic environment, you must also avoid overheating, which can lead to sweat that may freeze and cause hypothermia.

  Breathe slowly, through one or more layers of clothing.

  Very cold air inhaled too rapidly can damage the lungs and chill the entire body.

  Keep all of your skin covered at all times.

  Frostbite can kill human tissue in minutes under extreme conditions.

  Protect your eyes with UV-blocking goggles.

  Snow and ice amplify the effects of solar radiation, making snow blindness a real possibility. Keep your eyes covered at all times, even in cloudy conditions; just because the sun isn’t visible doesn’t mean that it isn’t emitting harmful UV rays.

  Melt snow and ice thoroughly before drinking.

  Heating snow or ice in your mouth consumes valuable calories stored in your body and may elevate the risk of hypothermia. If you can’t make a fire, use your body heat: place the snow or ice in a bag and insert it between layers of clothing. If you have the option, melt ice, which yields more water than a similar volume of snow.

  Carry a long, sturdy pole while walking over ice.

  Position the pole across your body, at belt level, as you move. Should the ice break beneath you, the pole may save you from falling all the way through into the frigid water below.

  Remain constantly aware of the conditions of the ice and snow beneath you.

  Dirty ice is weaker than clean ice of the same thickness because its dark color absorbs more heat from the sun. Snow-covered ice tends to be thinner than bare ice. In areas where there is a danger of avalanche, travel early in the morning, before the sun warms any of the snow and increases the chance of a slide. In mountainous terrain, snow often forms cornices that extend several feet from the lee side of ridges; these can easily break off when stepped on.

  When crossing thin ice, crawl on all fours to distribute your weight.

  When walking across ice, hold a long pole parallel to the ice at waist level.

  Dig in during whiteout conditions.

  Never travel during a severe storm, as you will quickly lose your way and expose yourself to dangers in the terrain that could be avoided if you were able to be more alert.

  Build small, well-ventilated shelters.

  Ice caves and snow trenches should be as small as possible to take advantage of your body heat, with holes for air to prevent suffocation. Never build a shelter out of metal, such as airplane wreckage, as it will whisk away whatever heat you generate. Don’t sleep directly on the ground; create a layer of bedding made of fabric or grass to insulate your body.

  Techniques for Staying Warm in Subzero Temperatures

  Wear a foundation garment of synthetic material.

  Eat a lot, twice as much as you would in warm weather.

  Eat carbohydrates in the beginning and middle of the day.

  Constantly perform small exercises.

  If you begin sweating, slow down or pause exercise, to avoid cold/freezing sweat.

  HOW TO BUILD AN IGLOO

  1 Trace a circle on a flat stretch of hardened snow.

  Make the circle about 12 feet in diameter.

  2 Cut bricks of dry, densely compacted snow.

  Using a saw or knife, carve about 50 bricks from the snow, each about three feet long, one foot high, and eight inches thick. Cut some of them from one half of the area within your circle and the rest from a rectangular trench extending six feet from the near edge. The wall of your igloo will pass between these two pits, which you will later connect to create an entrance.

  3 Arrange a layer of bricks around the edge of the circle.

  Allow the bricks to lean slightly inward. Press the edges together firmly, and pack snow into crevices and cracks.

  4 Shave a diagonal cut from the top of the layer of bricks.

  Use a snow saw to cut the bricks at an angle toward the center of the circle to enable you to stack the rest of the bricks in a spiral.

  5 Stack bricks on the first layer to form the walls.

  Stop building when the dome is halfway complete. Use snow to seal cracks and cement each new brick in place. Take your time; building an igloo is a slow process.

  6 Dig a tunnel through (or beneath) the foundation bricks.

  When the dome is about halfway complete, create a crawl space that will serve as an entryway to the igloo. Connect the tunnel to the trench from which you cut your bricks to serve as a cold sink—cold air will fall to the bottom of the finished igloo, allowing you to sleep in comparatively warm air.

  7 Build an elevated bed inside the unfinished dome.

  Pile insulating
materials atop the ledge where you did not cut any bricks.

  8 Complete the dome.

  Continue adding bricks until you reach the top. The last brick must be larger than the final hole at the top. Standing inside the igloo, shape it with your knife or saw until it nestles into the space.

  9 Cut airholes in the walls of the igloo.

  Carve one hole near the top and another near the entrance. Insufficient ventilation may lead to suffocation or carbon monoxide poisoning (if you build a fire inside the igloo). Check the holes regularly for blockage from ice and snow.

  10 Build a roof over the entrance trench.

  Use the remaining bricks to cover the entry, which will prevent snow from blowing into the igloo.

  Shave a diagonal cut from the first layer of bricks.

  Stack bricks on top to form walls.

  Cold air will sink into the lower level of the igloo.

  The final square must be larger than the hole at the top.

  WARNING!

  Igloos are hard to construct but offer a warmer, sturdier home than a snow cave. If there is good reason to believe that help will arrive in a day or two, consider saving your energy and building a more primitive shelter. If you will be on the ice for several days or longer, however, an igloo will repay your efforts with unbeatable protection from sun, wind, and cold exposure.

  The ideal snow for building an igloo is sturdy enough that you can stand on it without sinking but soft enough that you can insert a stick into it without difficulty.

  Even with a multitiered shelter and a fire, you will not be able to heat the air in the igloo warmer than a few degrees above freezing. However, the temperature inside will not drop below 0°F, no matter how cold it is outside the shelter.

  Keep plenty of food, fuel, and a shovel inside the igloo; if a storm blows in, you may be trapped inside for days and have to dig yourself out of the newly fallen snow.

  Stop drips in the walls of the igloo by packing new snow over the source.

  Knock loose snow off your boots and clothing before entering the igloo.

  7

  Getting Around

  UNSAFE AT

  ANY SPEED

  BOATS

  * * *

  * * *

  HOW TO MAKE AN EMERGENCY FLOTATION DEVICE OUT OF YOUR PANTS

  1 Remove your pants.

  Slip out of your pants one leg at a time, treading water with the opposite leg and arm to stay afloat until the pants are off.

  2 Knot the legs.

  Take the bottom hole of each leg and tie it off like a trash bag.

  3 Button the fly.

  4 Flip the pants over your head.

  Grasp the waistband on one side and swing the pants over your head from back to front, bringing the waist opening down hard on the surface of the water. This traps air in each leg.

  5 Pull the waist down under the surface of the water so the inflated legs are poking up in a V formation.

  6 Lean into the V of inflated pant legs.

  Kick your legs to propel yourself to safety.

  HOW TO SAIL THROUGH A TYPHOON

  1 Reduce speed.

  2 Determine your position.

  Plot your position on your chart relative to the position of the storm, wind direction and speed, and estimated time to your destination.

  3 Adjust your course.

  Navigate toward the closest shoreline.

  4 Instruct all passengers to put on their personal flotation devices immediately.

  Put on your life jacket as well.

  5 Assign specific duties to each passenger.

  Instruct one crew member to look out for danger areas, debris, or other boats, and another to turn on all bilge pumps.

  6 Close hatches, ports, and windows.

  7 Secure loose items.

  Move loose items below deck. Tie down anything that cannot be moved below deck.

  Remove your pants, knot the legs, close the fly, and flip the pants over your head so they fill with air.

  Holding the waist, pull the pants straight down into the water.

  Lean into the V of the inflated pant legs and kick.

  8 Lower the sails or change to storm sails.

  9 Prepare the lifeboat.

  Equip with emergency food, water, and first aid kit.

  10 Unplug any electrical equipment.

  Turn off circuit breakers and disconnect antennas. Instruct passengers and crew to avoid contact with metal objects.

  11 Direct the bow into winds.

  Approach waves at a 40- to 45-degree angle.

  12 Keep passengers low and to the center of the boat.

  Rig jack lines, lifelines, and safety harnesses to anyone who needs to be on deck.

  WARNING!

  Clouds are the best indicators of weather. Watch for stratus clouds that lower or cumulus clouds that rise up and turn into cumulonimbus clouds, both indicators of approaching storms.

  When you first realize that you are facing inclement weather, radio in to the Coast Guard, as well as other boats. Inform them of your location and float plan.

  HOW TO FLIP AN OVERTURNED KAYAK

  1 Bend forward at the waist.

  Being upside down in a kayak puts your entire torso underwater, making it impossible to breathe. Do not thrash about in the water, which is only likely to empty your lungs of air and make your situation worse. When your kayak overturns, curl at the waist and count to three to help you regain your calm as the kayak naturally aligns in a stable position in the turbulent water. Keep a tight grip on your paddle.

  2 Lean toward the left side of the boat.

  Flex at the hip to hold yourself in position.

  3 Line up your paddle parallel to the kayak.

  Hold the paddle firmly in both hands.

  4 Sweep the paddle blade away from the boat.

  With your right hand, which will be closest to the bow (front) of the kayak, move the paddle outward, keeping it just beneath the surface of the water.

  5 Lean upward.

  Move your head and torso as close to the surface as possible, resisting the urge to pull your head completely out of the water.

  6 Snap your hips to flip the kayak.

  As your sweeping paddle motion is midway to completion, quickly snap your hips in one fluid motion so that instead of leaning your torso all the way toward your left side, you will be leaning all the way to the right as the kayak comes underneath your center of gravity. The friction of your paddle in the water will combine with the hip snap to create enough momentum to flip the boat partially onto its keel. Your head and torso will still be touching the water’s surface.

  7 Recover your stability.

  In a fluid continuation of the flip, bend your torso out of the water, using your legs and abdominal muscles to bring the kayak closer to your head. As the kayak begins to sit upright in the water, whip your head from the water surface and sit up straight.

  WARNING!

  Kayaks flip easily in turbulent water. If you are not confident in your kayaking skills, or if you lack experience in fast-moving water, practice fipping the kayak over in still water.

  Sweep the paddle away from the boat, moving your head and torso closer to the surface.

  Rotate your hips so that you are leaning all the way to the right.

  As the kayak rights itself pull your shoulders and head back into an upright position.

  HOW TO SURVIVE GOING DOWN WITH A SINKING SHIP

  1 Dress in your warmest clothes.

  When the abandon-ship signal is given, or if you suspect it is about to be given, put on multiple layers of clothes, preferably made of wool. Wear a hat and gloves, and wrap a scarf or towel around your neck. Clothes offer the best protection against hypothermia.

  2 Put on your life vest.

  Cabins are equipped with life vests for each passenger. Pull one over your head and securely fasten the straps.

  3 Gather portable, high-calorie foods.

  Stuff chocolates and candy i
n your pockets.

  4 Move to the top deck.

  Quickly make your way to the uppermost deck of the ship, to put as much distance as possible between yourself and the water.

  5 Get in a lifeboat.

  Women and children will be taken into the boats first.

  6 If you cannot get into a lifeboat, jump at the last possible moment.

  A human can expect to live only 30 to 90 minutes in water that is 32°F to 40°F. Remain on the ship until you see crew members jumping. Swim toward the lifeboats and as far away from the ship as you can get, so that you won’t be pulled under when the ship goes down. Swim no farther than you have to, since movement in cold water increases the rate of heat loss.

  7 Make a life raft.

  If you are unable to get on a lifeboat, grab a piece of floating debris to use as a raft. An overturned boat, a door, and a large piece of wood are all good alternatives. You want something larger than you are so that you can completely climb out of the water, as cold water saps your body heat 25 times faster than air of the same temperature.

  8 Wring out your wet clothes.

  Once on a raft or improvised flotation device, squeeze the water out of your clothes so that they will provide better insulation.

  9 Assume the “heat escape lessening posture” (HELP).

  If you are still in the water, cross your ankles, draw your knees to your chest, and cross your arms over your chest. Keep your hands high on your chest or neck to keep them warm. Remain still.

 

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