by Sheila Heti
There were a lot of mishaps initially. My father’s finger would get caught in the needle of the sewing machine. And even my mother—she would sew by hand in Vietnam, but this was a huge machine we had no idea how to work. Even just changing the different spools of the thread was really difficult for us. My hair actually got caught in the machine once, at which point my father was just like, “I’m cutting your hair.” So my hair . . . I looked like a boy for ten years.
Every weekend or two a guy would come by and pick up everything we had made. I think our first batch that we made, the guy said, “Oh, you know, it’s a little crooked here, the tag is in the wrong place.” But they didn’t say, “We’re not paying you for this one because it’s crooked.” I mean, they were paying us a dollar for every twenty-four cummerbunds we made, so I don’t think it was too much of a loss for them if one or two were a little crooked.
In terms of us realizing at some point that it was illegal, I don’t think that happened until much later on. When I was old enough to go to school—because I was only three when we started doing this—there would be all these little kids developing calluses on their fingers from writing, and we had all these cuts and bruises on our fingers from doing sweatshop labor. We didn’t even know this was something that was outside the norm for everybody. We didn’t think it was different. We literally thought all the other kids were doing the same thing. We realized that we were different in the sense that we were emaciated, our hair was falling out, our teeth were black and rotten, so to that extent we were like: Okay, we are different. And obviously we can’t speak English very well. But in terms of what went on at home, we didn’t even realize. And we were really good students somehow, even though we didn’t have a chance to do our homework at home—we always did our homework in school. We didn’t realize that other students were doing their homework at home. We thought it was interesting that it was called homework.
So yeah, I think sometime in middle school, in the eighth grade, was the first time I went over to a friend’s house. I was never allowed to go to anybody else’s house because my parents were just really afraid—the Vietnamese people in New York, when we first landed, they were like, “Don’t go anywhere, your daughter will be raped, your son will be kidnapped—never go anywhere if it’s dark outside, don’t go outside of your home,” so we said, “Okay! Oh my goodness, it’s a crazy jungle out here.”
But I was like, “I just want to see her house for ten minutes. I’m curious.” So I walked into her house—this was one of my best friends, Veronica—and I asked her, “Where are all the ties and cummerbunds?” She’s like, “What are you talking about?” “You know, the stuff you make.” She was like, “What are you talking about? I don’t make anything.” And that’s when I started to realize, Oh, maybe some people don’t do this. Then sometime in high school I started to realize, Okay, maybe a lot of people don’t do this. (laughs)
It wasn’t until tenth or eleventh grade that I realized, “Wow, we were exploited.” But to us it was almost . . . we weren’t angry at this guy. It was just sort of interesting, like, Wow, we lived this life that people write about and talk about in history, this whole sweatshop thing.
What’s interesting about our experience, and I feel like very few people talk about this, but as children, we never thought our lives sucked. Even when we were starving, it was never like, “Oh my god, we’re starving,” it was just like, “Oh, there’s just some rice, okay.” I mean, we were children, and everything was magical. We made games out of everything. Even when it was two a.m. and we were up making these cummerbunds, we might sing songs to each other. Everything was a game to us, so we never thought, “Oh, our lives suck.” It was just part of being an American. Like, Wow, we’re here together and we’re making these cummerbunds? And these fabrics are so colorful. . . . I always felt that there was sort of a window between us—my brothers and I on the outside, looking in at my parents, and being very confused a lot of the time, because we had all this wonder and they seemed really miserable.
But we were all in this situation together. I think we were all victims in a way, even the man in the suit. Because he was just fulfilling the role. I mean, we were upset in that initial moment when we realized, Okay, this is not the amazing life we thought we would live in America. But at the same time we were grateful. This money that we made from the sweatshop labor, even though it didn’t buy us a lot of clothes, it did buy us some clothes and food. We weren’t starving to death. And we kept a roof over our heads. So ultimately we were very grateful for it. And to this day my parents are still grateful.
I believe I was twelve when the operation terminated.
I wish I could say that I give a lot of thought to where my clothing comes from these days. Sometimes when I see “Made in Vietnam,” I’ll joke around with my friends, “Oh, my cousins made this.” And my friends are like, “Oh my god, how could you say that,” and I’m like, “Well, I can say that.” I probably made a lot of the ties that the men are wearing in the street.
ON DRESSING
LET ONE DREAM COME TRUE
KATIE KITAMURA
MONDAY
9:26 Kenzo Eye-print silk-crepe shirt, $440 on net-a-porter.com. KENZO’s all-seeing eye is a prominent motif for Fall ’13. It alludes to the strength of extra vision and also to a spiritual protection from above. 9:28 Carven Bamboo-print crinkled-sateen dress, $650 on net-a-porter.com. Cut from lightweight crinkled-sateen, this piece gently flares from the hips for a flattering ladylike shape. 9:37 Acne Powder convertible down-filled parka, $900 on net-a-porter.com. Acne’s water repellent canvas parka offers two styles in one. Give yours a downtown take with heels and leather pants. 12:46 Stella McCartney Aubrey Dress, £870 on stellamccartney.com. Double chalk stripe dress in wool stretch featuring a circular front insert adding volume and movement. 12:47 Stella McCartney Pin Stripe Dress, £810 on stellamccartney.com. Luxurious soft wool knitted dress in pin stripe with an asymmetric hem, long sleeved and ribbed trims. 16:03 Filson Duffle Bag in Medium, $325.00 on filson.com. Pack for a long weekend in this spacious, indestructible duffle bag. Features two inside pockets at each end, leather pulls, leather grip with two-snap closure. Made in USA. 21:05 Stella McCartney Single Breasted Long Wool Coat, Current Bid $446.00 on ebay.com. UTTERLY GORGEOUS, ABSOLUTELY NEARLY NEW condition (it was owned by a MAJOR HOLLYWOOD WIFE/ACTRESS who obviously BARELY wears her things at all)—ULTRA SCOOOORE!!!!!! 22:18 Acne White Shirt, Current Bid $5.99 on ebay.com. All cotton. I don’t like to iron.
TUESDAY
9:50 Giambattista Valli Leopard-print stretch-jersey pants, $750 on net-a-porter.com. Parisian girl meets Manhattan boy was the theme of Giambattista Valli’s Pre-Fall ’13 collection—cue glamor and androgyny in equal measure. 10:50 Marni Cotton Front Pocket Wide Leg Pant, $99 $525 on gilt.com. This item is final sale and non-returnable. 10:51 Marni Cotton High Rise Pant, $99 $560 on gilt.com. This item is final sale and non-returnable. 11:00 Alexander McQueen Bible Book Show embellished leather box clutch, $3975 on net-a-porter.com. The new bag for evening is a divine clutch—the ornate detailing is nothing short of artful. 11:38 Maison Martin Margiela cement-effect coated knee boots, Original price $1395 NOW $559.95 60% OFF on theoutnet.com. 13:47 Vionnet Chunky-knit merino wool sweater, $1305 on net-a-porter.com. The striking silhouette wowed us on the runway, so keep it in focus with slimline pants and pin heels. 13:53 Charlotte Olympia Kitty Cat–Embroidered Velvet Flat Slipper, $595 on neimanmarcus.com. The whimsical cat design brings all the eye-catching style of the designer’s stunning platforms, but with a flat heel. 13:54 Charlotte Olympia Kitty Cat–Embroidered Velvet Flat Slipper, Current Bid $259.65 on ebay.com. Free shipping! Bid now so you can get a deal. 14:41 Acne Black Merino Wool Long Sleeve Chunky Sweater, Current Bid $31.00 on ebay.com. I live in South Florida and I definitely wore this sweater once. Might even have been twice. It’s in excellent condition. 21:43 Equipment Liliane washed-silk pajama set, $388 on net-a-porter.com. Luxe sleepwear is our ultimate indulgence. Complete
with a matching pouch, they’re a fabulous treat.
WEDNESDAY
10:26 See By Chloé Herringbone wool-blend coat, $1095 on net-a-porter.com. Heritage fabrics are a key style story for fall. This oversized style is crafted with soft touches of alpaca and mohair. 10:28 Chalayan Wool-blend coat, $1780 on net-a-porter.com. This season, the runways were awash with menswear-inspired coats. The key to nailing this trend is all in the proportions. 10:29 A.P.C. Wool-blend peacoat, $575 on net-a-porter.com. A.P.C. Atelier de Production et de Créationis all about cool, classic pieces that you can build your wardrobe with. Warm without being too bulky. 10:31 Kenzo Oversized faux fur coat, $840 on net-a-porter.com. Work two of the season’s most important trends—statement-making coats and rich texture—at the same time. The restrained navy hue tempers the playful spirit of this piece. 15:34 Isabel Marant for H&M Coat, £99.99 on vogue.co.uk. Pieces that echo Marant’s Parisian bohemian aesthetic perfectly. Start making your wish list now, before the collection lands in stores on November 14. 20:45 Acne Black Merino Wool Long Sleeve Chunky Sweater, Current Bid $86 on ebay.com. Saved to watch list. 20:46 Charlotte Olympia Kitty Cat–Embroidered Velvet Flat Slipper, Current Bid $274.65 on ebay.com. Saved to watch list.
THURSDAY
10:45 Acne Black Merino Wool Long Sleeve Chunky Sweater, Current Bid $86 on ebay.com. Saved to watch list. 10:45 Charlotte Olympia Kitty Cat–Embroidered Velvet Flat Slipper, Current Bid $274.65 on ebay.com. Saved to watch list. 11:54 Stella McCartney Cable-knit wool miniskirt, Original Price $785 NOW $250.02 68% OFF on theoutnet.com. 11:56 Peter Pilotto Eleni printed stretch-crepe pencil skirt, $795 on net-a-porter.com. The clean silhouette emphasizes the design duo’s masterful kaleidoscopic print. Make the sea-green pattern pop. 12:00 Jil Sander Leather envelope clutch, $510 on net-a-porter.com. Jil Sander’s black leather style is coolly understated—free from any embellishment or branding save a subtly embossed designer stamp. 12:03 Carven Wool Sweater Dress, Original price $900 NOW $270 70% OFF on theoutnet.com. 14:45 Maison Martin Margiela Perforated leather Oxford brogues, $875 on net-a-porter.com. Wear this sleek black leather pair with matching prints. 14:53 Eugenia Kim Sammy hat, $220 $59 on barneyswarehouse.com. Mohair and wool blend trapper hat with leather ties. 19:22 Acne Black Merino Wool Long Sleeve Chunky Sweater, Current Bid $86 on ebay.com. It is ending soon, so bid now before you miss out! 19:31 Acne Black Merino Wool Long Sleeve Chunky Sweater, Current Bid $91 on ebay.com. You’re the highest bidder on the item but you’re close to being outbid. 19:35 Acne Black Merino Wool Long Sleeve Chunky Sweater, Winning Bid $97.00 on ebay.com. You didn’t win this auction.
FRIDAY
10:37 Band of Outsiders Leather-trimmed Atari 2600 printed cotton-voile shirt, $375 on net-a-porter.com. The geometric print is inspired by graphics from video games originally played on the Atari 2600 console system. We recommend wearing this semi-sheer style with a neutral camisole. 10:53 American Vintage Nine Nile Falls angora-blend sweater, $235 on net-a-porter.com. Knitted from luxuriously soft black angora-blend, American Vintage’s midweight sweater has a distinctly fluffy feel. 10:58 Midweight Full Zip Hooded Sweatshirt, $79 on americangiant.com. This will become your go-to hoodie. 21:26 Pablo Bronstein for Opening Ceremony Silk Scarf, $150 on openingceremony.us. This season, British artist Pablo Bronstein has created a not-so-typical silk scarf specially for OC. Represented by Herald St—one of Carol and Humberto’s favorite galleries in London—Pablo is known for his fantastical architectural paintings. 21:36 Peter Jensen Mini Spend Sweatshirt, $175 on openingceremony.us. Danish architect Arne Jacobson seems like an unlikely inspiration for Peter Jensen’s pre-Fall collection, but his timeless ideas with a modernist twist fit right in with the brand’s aesthetic. 21:42 Peter Jensen Nina Crewneck, $235 on openingceremony.us. For fall, Peter Jensen was inspired by notorious British lottery winner Vivian Nicholson and her bittersweet entrance into pop culture. 21:44 Steve J & Yoni P Double Breasted Check Coat, $705 on openingceremony.us. Spike up your Mohawk and pull out your best shoes. For Fall, design duo Steve J & Yoni P put a glam spin on fashion’s year of punk. 21:54 Proenza Schouler Small Pony Lunch Bag, $1150 on openingceremony.us. Proenza Schouler’s simple Lunch Bag clutch gets a little furry for fall! This basic bag adds just the right amount of texture to any outfit.
SATURDAY
8:42 Sophie Hulme Textured leather and brass box clutch, $430 on net-a-porter.com. Finished with the brand’s signature polished brass hardware, this contemporary piece also comes with a playful gold-tone ice cream spoon! 8:44 Kenzo Eye-embellished cotton shirt, $410 on net-a-porter.com. Supersized proportions strike the perfect note this season. Take your cue from the runway and wear it tucked into a skirt. 15:30 3.1 Phillip Lim Oversized Embroidered Bomber Jacket, $269 $675 on gilt.com. Your waitlisted item is available. Just One. 22:21 A.P.C. Metallic Mini Skirt, $99 $325 on barneyswarehouse.com. Metallic mini skirt in abstract detail with short pleated waistband and hidden back zip. All sales final. 22:22 Maison Martin Margiela Rubber Oxford, $219 $795 on barneyswarehouse.com. Textured rubber six-eye round toe oxford. All sales final. 22:26 Miu Miu Laceless Oxford, $239 $595 on barneyswarehouse.com. Smooth leather round toe laceless oxford with tonal stitching. All sales final. 22:30 Lanvin Stitched Wingtip Oxford, $239 $595 on barneyswarehouse.com. Suede taper toe lace-up oxford with stitched wingtip and cap toe. Tonal laces and grosgrain trim at vamp. All sales final. 22:47 KENZO Cloud Print Vans Slip-Ons, $125 on openingceremony.us. Printed shoe game on point! Carol and Humberto have once more Kenzofied classic Vans styles and we can’t get enough.
SUNDAY
17:13 Gudrun & Gudrun 1.176 Sweater traditional blue, $380 on thecools.com. This is one style from our best selling series. So simple and yet so special. The first model in white and brown (100.101) is known in Denmark from the TV series “Forbrydelsen” (the crime) and sold in Japanese specialty stores year after year. 17:14 Gudrun & Gudrun 1.101 Sweater Traditional, $350 on thecools.com. This is our best selling item ever—so simple and yet so special. It is especially known as Sarah Lund’s favorite sweater in the Danish TV series “The Killing” where it was worn by the main character Sarah Lund in both season 1 and 3. The sweater is available in other colors, you just have to write which color you like to purchase in the comment of the order, and we will send it to you. 17:16 Gudrun and Gudrun 1.108 Sweater traditional alpa, $350 on thecools.com. The colour range is different in that way that it is only made by the natural colour of the animals, such as the pattern that is iconic. Currently used by Sarah Linden in the American version of The Killing. 20:27 Gudrun and Gudrun 2.131 Sweater with knots, $360 on thecools.com. Relaxed in a sophisticated and elegant way. The sweater is perfect when you want to be trendy without being too loud. 20:33 Gudrun and Gudrun 1.819 Sweater landscape-rose, $400 on thecools.com. We all dream a lot. Here is something to dream about. The amazing Gudrun & Gudrun multicoloured dream sweater. Let one dream come true.
SURVEY How does makeup fit into all this for you?
If I know someone well, I don’t feel like I have to wear makeup around them.—VANESSA BERRY • When I am bored or nervous, I paint my face like it’s a blank page. I switch my nail polish weekly, like starting a new chapter.—MAYA FUHR • I’ve worn lipstick every day since I was eleven years old.—RACHEL KUSHNER • I started wearing makeup when I was a spokesperson for the pro-choice movement. I realized that I looked washed-out if I appeared on TV without makeup. Later I was a TV host with professional hair and makeup and a wardobe allowance. For eight years, I was a high-maintenance woman. It was fun at first, but then I started to feel the oppression, especially with the makeup. —JUDY REBICK • I impulse-buy makeup that I don’t wear often, despite my hatred of useless impulse purchases. —VALERIE STIVERS • A former coworker used to obsess about how creamy the skin on my face is. It made me really uncomfortable.—GINA SHELTON • I have been experimenting with bright, intense lipstick lately. I finally feel adult enough to wear it. —BETH STUART
COLLECTION
AMY ROSE SPIEGEL’s fals
e eyelashes worn over the course of one week
SURVEY
ECONOMICS OF STYLE
“There was one explicit lesson my grandparents taught me, which was to never look like ‘the poor soul.’” —RACHEL TUTERA
ALLISON D. Last year, I drew my sister-in-law’s name in our annual family Christmas gift draw. She’s impossible to buy for because she is rich and has expensive taste, and I am the opposite. I’m not rich and I don’t have expensive taste. My style is probably more like a woman’s adaptation of a feminine gay man’s wardrobe, except maybe not as stylish. I took my sister—who is poor, but has expensive taste—to an antique shop, where she enthusiastically helped me pick out a few pieces of vintage jewelry she thought our sister-in-law would like. Christmas morning, our sister-in-law opened the package, and it was clear she thought it was a totally shitty gift. When I saw the jewelry in her hand, it just looked so different to me—ugly and cheap. It ruined the day for me, honestly.
DALE MEGAN HEALEY I paid full price for a pair of clog boots in Williamsburg. I knew exactly how much money was in my bank account and that I was spending about half of it on these shoes. I told the saleswoman that they cost almost half my rent, but they were just so beautiful. “Well, if they’re not an impulse buy, you should go for it!” she said. When I finally paid for them I expected someone to congratulate me or hand me a certificate.
IMAN BIBARS I often appear in the media, so if I’m attending an important event, I take extra care to coordinate my outfit, my makeup, and my jewelry. I will also have my hair and nails done the day before. I like to look good, even if I’m just going to the office. I’m fortunate that I have a driver and do not have to commute to the office as, living in Egypt, if I had to travel any distance to work without a driver, I would have to consider other factors when dressing, sexual harassment being prominent here.