260“one of the best right hands”: Cathy Horyn, Things Turn in the Right Direction,” New York Times, February 13, 2012.
260“had gone off brand,” DVF to the author, May 21, 2013.
261“accessibility”: Vanessa Friedman, “Some Get the Point: Tommy Hilfiger, Diane von Furstenberg, Carolina Herrera, The Row,” New York Times, September 8, 2014.
261“haul[ed] away”: Eric Wilson, “Is New York Fashion Week Near the End of the Runway?” New York Times, September 4, 2013.
261“the United States is”: Diane von Furstenberg, “Fashion Deserves Copyright Protection,” Los Angeles Times, August 24, 2007.
263“Everyone here better be”: Charlotte Cowles, The Cut, nymag.com, September 8, 2012.
263“who have survived”: “DVF Honors Women Leaders,” Daily Beast, February 10, 2010.
265“She wants to be” and following: AVF to the author, June 17, 2013.
266“I believe in the circle”: DVF to the author, October 28, 2010 and July 16, 2011.
266“hates fashion” and following: TVF to the author, June 15, 2013.
266“was super hard” and following: AVF to the author, June 17, 2013.
267“My son was jealous”: New York Post, Page Six Magazine, February 11, 2010.
267“I remember a holiday”: Bob Colacello to the author, December 6, 2011.
268“and the first one to believe:” DVF to the author, July 16, 2011.
268“He’d had a lot of shame” and following: TVF to the author, June 15, 2013.
268“We all knew” and following: Marc Landeau to the author, July 19, 2011.
269“I liked the fact”: Diane von Furstenberg, Diane: A Signature Life (New York: Simon & Schuster, 2009), p. 206.
269“I don’t like to stay,” Boston Common, Fall 2012.
269“She’ll talk about”: DVF to the author, August 1, 2013.
270“I don’t want to be”: DVF to the author, October 3, 2013.
271“What defines me”: DVF to the author, July 31, 2014.
272“Don’t let her look”: Ellen Gross to the author, October 2, 2013.
Index
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A
Abzug, Bella, 108
Adams, Amy, 258
Adrian, 111
African American models, 87
Agnelli, Gianni, 35, 49–50, 53, 61, 72, 184
Agnelli, Giovanni, 192
Agnelli family, 35, 36, 59, 116, 166
Aidan, Bernard, 242
AIDS, 61, 72, 167, 169–70, 179, 200, 247
Aimée, Anouk, 188
Alaïa, Azzedine, 201, 240
Albers, Josef, 61, 70
Altschul, Serena, 228
Amazon.com, 218
anti-Semitism, 57–58, 60
Anuszkiewicz, Richard, 70
Arden, Elizabeth, 125, 207
Astor, Brooke, 53
Auletta, Ken, 213
Aulin, Ewa, 112
Auschwitz, Lily in, 15–16, 22, 173
Avon, 226–27, 228, 237
B
Bailey, David, 38
Baker, Blanche, 173
Baker, Josephine, 87
Balenciaga, 44, 85
Balthus, 195
Bardot, Brigitte, 42
Baryshnikov, Mikhail, 139, 193
Bass, Mercedes, 253
Baumgold, Julie, 144, 174, 177
Beaton, Cecil, 142
Beatty, Warren, 116
Beecham, 181, 197
Beene, Geoffrey, 186
Belle Epoque, 29
Benigni, Roberto, 239
Bennetts, Leslie, 107
Berenson, Bernard, 42
Berenson, Berry, 42, 75, 100
Berenson, Marisa, 42–45, 46, 49, 50, 60, 75, 143, 194, 202, 220
Bergdorf Goodman, 75, 90, 143, 161
Bergé, Pierre, 109, 195
Bergen, Candice, 65, 108
Berger, Helmut, 50
Berlin, Mrs. Richard, 91
Berlin Wall, fall of, 204
Bernhard, Sandra, 183–84
Bertin, Rose, 74, 75
Best and Co., 62
Betancourt, Ingrid, 264–65
Betts, Katherine, 211
Blahnik, Manolo, 211
Blass, Bill, 74, 84, 85, 87, 92, 96, 117, 124, 246
Blatnik, Vlady, 30
Bloomingdale’s, 78, 128, 144, 152, 227, 243, 265
B’nai B’rith, 173
Bohan, Marc, 59, 87
Bohlen, Arndt von, 60
Bonwit Teller, 152, 200
Boucher, François, 44
Bouquin, Jean, 76
Bourbon del Monte, Carlo, 57
Bowles, Paul, 189, 191, 203
Boyar, Francine, 78, 101, 108, 116
Brantes, Guy de, 138
Braun, Craig, 246
Bravo, Rose Marie, 178, 228–29, 231
Brodsky, Joseph, 193
Brown, Jerry, 137–38, 184
Bruna (pattern maker), 94, 106
Brussels:
Halfin family in, 17–19
Nazis in, 12–15
Buck, Joan Juliet, 195
Burch, Tory, 269
Burlington, 154
Burrows, Stephen, 55, 74, 75, 87, 95, 112
Burton, Richard, 60
C
Cabochard, 94, 99
Campbell, Jane Allen, 35, 57
Campbell, Naomi, 262
Capote, Truman, 53, 75, 139
Capshaw, Kate, 231
Carangi, Gia, 167–69
Cardin, Pierre, 87, 123, 156
Cardinale, Claudia, 51
Carnegie, Hattie, 86
Carradine, Keith, 138
Carter, Jimmy, 149
Cashin, Bonnie, 86, 112
Cassini, Igor, 30
Cassini, Oleg, 30
Castro, Fidel, 204
Catroux, François, 110, 194, 196, 253
Chanel, 84, 190, 202, 231, 259, 265
Chanel, Coco, 29, 73, 75, 86, 109, 186, 243
Chanel No. 5, 92, 126, 259
Chang, Jung, Wild Swans, 220
Chatwin, Bruce, 191
Chopra, Deepak, 220, 221
Cicogna, Marina, 35, 50–51, 171
Claiborne, Liz, 99, 147, 236, 245
Clark, Ossie, 29, 76
Clemente, Francesco, 270
Clinton, Bill, 221, 269
Clinton, Hillary, 263, 264
Close, Chuck, 258
Cloudwalk, Connecticut, 9–10, 117–18, 136, 178, 179, 180, 192, 269–70
Cocteau, Jean, 29, 73
Cohen, Andy, 258
Cohen, Patti, 198
Cohn, Roy, 159–60
Colacello, Bob, 54, 60, 71, 72, 74–75, 114–15, 141, 144, 166, 171, 268
Collins, Nancy, 138
Colman, David, 20
Color Authority:
Avon fashion line, 227
DVF cosmetics line, 162–63, 192, 197
Comcast Corporation, 213, 214, 222
Condé Nast, 42, 70
Connolly, Cyril, 191
Conrad, Richard, 62, 94, 99
and cosmetics, 126
Diane’s partnership with, 81–82, 83–84, 90–92, 93, 236
and DVF decline, 153, 154, 158, 161
and Egon, 83, 103–4
and wrap dress, 106, 107, 108, 112
Cooper, Wilhelmina, 54, 169
Coppola, Francis Ford, 135
Cornfeld, Bernie, 33–34
Cosgrave, Liam, 149
Coty Awards, 86
Council of Fashion Designers of America, 7, 86, 261–63, 270, 271
Courrèges, 29
Couture Group, 86
Crowell, Judy, 216
Crowley, Mart, The Boys in the Band, 72–73
Crystal, David, 80
Cuba, Diane’s travel to, 204
Cutrone, Ronnie, 125
>
D
Daggett, Darlene, 209
Dalí, Salvador, 43, 270
Deanna (friend), 28, 142
de Gaulle, Charles, 40, 44
DeGeneres, Ellen, 235
de la Renta, Annette, 253
de la Renta, Françoise, 117
de la Renta, Oscar, 2, 74, 75, 87, 96, 100, 109, 110, 117, 142, 158, 166, 203, 261
Deneuve, Catherine, 51
De Sole, Domenico, 244
Diaghilev, Sergey, 73
Diane von Furstenberg, 91–99
and affordability, 99, 110, 183, 207
collaboration in, 93–95, 110
Conrad as partner in, 81–84, 90–92, 93
cosmetics line, 125–29, 158, 160–61, 162–63, 177, 181, 197
decline of, 151–60, 197–98, 202, 228
DVF initialism of, 91, 123, 183; see also DVF
“Feel like a woman, wear a dress,” 97, 134, 254–55
and Ferretti, 91–92
finances of, 6, 91–92, 99, 114, 153–54, 155, 181, 187, 197, 237, 244
first opening of, 77–79
growth of, 80, 92, 143–44, 152, 154, 258
jeans line, 163
jewelry, 94, 154
launch of, 63–64
licensing deals, 5, 123–24, 152, 154, 158, 162, 163, 183, 193, 197, 206
“Made in Italy” label, 91
offices of, 63–64, 89, 90–91, 161–62, 191
and publicity, 146, 254–55, 257
restructuring of, 161, 225
sale of dress business, 155–58, 162, 181
samples, 62, 63–64
and Sears, 143–44, 191, 197
styles available from, 62, 65–67, 68–69, 83, 95, 98–99, 107, 124, 210–11
success of, 81, 99
Diesel, 205
Diller, Barry, 131–37
ambition of, 209, 214, 222–23
and Diane’s business, 155, 157, 161, 210, 212, 223, 233, 244–45, 264
and Diane’s legacy, 259
Diane’s relationship with, 133–34, 135–37, 170–71, 174, 187, 203, 204, 212, 214–15, 233, 252–53, 268
early years of, 132–33
marriage to Diane, 5–6, 136, 250–54, 259
and NBC, 213
negotiating deals, 133, 157, 210, 213–14, 222, 223
and parties, 132, 163, 164, 202
and Q2, 217–18
and QVC, 209–10, 212, 213–14, 222–23
Diller, Donald, 134–35
Diller-von Furstenberg Foundation, 244, 263, 271
Dior, Christian, 85, 87, 92, 202, 231
and licensing, 123, 156
New Look, 29, 96, 111, 221
Disney, Walt, 123
DKNY, 199
Drake, Alicia, 194
Dubuffet, Jean, 121
Duong, Anh, 263–64
Dutry, Mireille, 17, 23, 24, 27, 29, 37–38
Dutry, Tinou, 23–24
DVF:
public offering, 259–60
and Q2, 217–18
and QVC, 208–14, 216–17, 222
relaunching, 208, 225–27, 259
Silk Assets, 210–12, 214, 227, 230, 246
Surroundings, 216–17
as trademark, 91, 123–29, 183, 265
DVF Awards, 5, 263–64
DVF boutiques:
beauty stores, 125–29
cosmetics makeovers, 127–28
decline of, 151–60, 161, 197–98
in New York, 6, 182–84, 185, 186, 254
success of, 81, 123–29, 146
worldwide, 6
dvf.com, 250
DVF division, Russ Togs, 205–7
DVF Home Design, 5
DVF Studio, 78, 225–26
business plan of, 246
“Diane” label of, 225, 227–28
expansion of, 242–43, 258
finances of, 233, 244–45
formal opening of, 234–35
spring collections (2000), 245–46; (2001), 248
DVF Woman, 23, 78–79, 91, 183, 242
E
Edgar, Joanne, 148
Eisenhower, Julie Nixon, 105–6
Elkann, Alain, 184–96, 202, 203, 215, 238, 252, 268
Elkann, John, 192
Elkann, Margherita, 184
Elkin, Stanley, 36
Ellis, Bret Easton, 188
Ellis, Perry, 170
Erhard, Werner, 155
Ernst, Max, 121
Estévez, Luis, 148–49
Evans, Bob, 138
Evert, Chris, 157
F
Fairchild, John, 67–68, 152–53, 168–69
Falaise, Loulou de la, 194–96
Fashion:
as about archetypes, 78
as about exclusion, 45–46
accessories in, 259
affordable, 55, 99, 110, 113, 183, 207
and AIDS, 167, 169–70, 179, 200, 247
allure of, 170
American style, 74, 85, 86–87, 95, 96
Best Dressed List, 86
branding in, 124, 199, 247, 259, 265
celebrity designers, 68, 198–201
changes in, 6, 7, 44, 68–69, 95–96, 151, 197–98, 237, 247–48
collaborative process of, 93–95, 110
competition in, 89, 110–11, 126
and copyright laws, 261–62
corporate focus in, 197–98
and culture, 28, 68, 96, 113
decline of couture, 44
and gay circles, 73, 74, 169–70
and identity, 28
and licensing, 123–24, 156–57
magazines, 66–68
manufacture of, 55, 198
“moments” in, 141–42, 221, 262
museum exhibits, 6–7, 232
in New York, see New York
nostalgia in, 228–29
outsourcing of, 198
and politics, 72
psychic phenomena in, 92–93
public offerings, 259–60
purpose of, 109
and romance, 96–97
in the sixties, 44, 55
and the spirit of the moment, 106, 111
standards of beauty in, 97–98
symbolic power of, 28
and wealth, 28–29
Federated Department Stores, 227–28
Feinberg, Sue, 47, 48, 92, 93, 94–95, 99, 106, 113, 228
Fendi, 190
Féraud, Louis, 48
Ferragamo, 48
Ferré, Gianfranco, 202
Ferretti, Angelo, 46–49
cotton-jersey fabric of, 48, 83, 94–95, 98, 107, 154, 158
death of, 160, 230
Diane as apprentice with, 46–47, 62, 230
and Diane’s business, 61, 63, 66, 80, 83, 91–92, 94–95, 99, 108, 158
and DVF decline, 158–60
factories of, 47, 55, 59, 61, 66, 92, 94, 99, 113, 158
merrowing machine of, 99, 113
and wrap dress, 107, 108, 113, 114
Ferretti, Mimmo, 45, 46, 48, 69, 77, 158–60
Fitzgerald, F. Scott, Tender Is the Night, 42
Fonda, Jane, 51
Forbes, Malcolm, 203
Ford, Betty, 76, 148, 149
Ford, Tom, 228, 241, 244
Forth, Jane, 65
Fox, James, 188–89
Fox network, 209, 213
Francke, Linda Bird, 9, 58, 60, 102–3, 110, 114, 127, 145–46, 192, 239
Franklin, Aretha, 176, 182
French Revolution, 96
Fressange, Ines de la, 189–90
Fried, Stephen, 168, 169
Friedan, Betty, The Feminine Mystique, 97
Friedman, Vanessa, 261
Funicello, Annette, 208
G
Gaetani, Roffredo, 215–16, 252
Gallant, Ara, 144
Galliano, John, 221–22, 231
Garis, Leslie, 107
Gawronski, Jas, 116, 118, 134, 174, 252, 268
Geffen, Dav
id, 135, 204
Gelbsman, Olivier, 5, 119, 144, 175, 176, 185, 187
Gere, Richard, 3, 116, 174, 175
Getty, Paul and Talitha, 60
Giammetti, Giancarlo, 46
Gilbert, Elizabeth, 175
Gilman, Charlotte Perkins, 79
Gilman, Sondra, 111
Giorgio Beverly Hills, 65
Giuliani, Rudolph, 248
Givenchy, Hubert, 67, 87, 156
Goldman, Andrew, 136
Gordon, Nona, 34–35, 40, 60
Graham, Martha, 76
Graves, Michael, 182
Greene, Milton, 82
Greenfield, Stefani, 78, 124, 234
Gregorini, Francesca, 252, 266
Gribetz, Lester, 208–9, 210
Grinda, Florence, 41–42, 49
Grinda, Jean-Noël, 42
Gross, Ellen, 272
Gross, Michael, 145, 199
Gucci, 99, 228, 244
Guest, C. Z., 210
Gunn, Tim, 86
H
Haden-Guest, Anthony, 77
Haim, Simon and Line, 12
Halfin, Diane, see von Furstenberg, Diane
Halfin, Greta, 180, 250, 252
Halfin, Leon, 11–14, 16–17, 18–20, 22, 24, 26–27, 172, 222, 250
Halfin, Lily:
breakdown and recovery of, 172–73, 174, 175, 227
breakup with Leon, 26–27
death of, 250
depression of, 18, 26, 39, 172
and Diane, 11, 22–26, 30, 39, 51, 57, 137, 171, 173
and Diane’s business, 161
and Diane’s cancer, 219, 220, 227
and Egon, 56, 58
and fortune-tellers, 92
and grandchildren, 118–19, 171–72, 180
and great-grandchildren, 249–50
and Holocaust, 11–16, 18–19, 21–22, 24, 26, 39, 171, 173, 239
marriage to Leon, 11, 16–17
and Muller, 24–25, 26, 33, 39, 118, 172, 180
and Paulo, 178, 185
and style, 17
as survivor, 158, 239, 255
Halfin, Philippe, 13, 17–22, 27, 171, 172–73, 180, 250, 252
Halston, 96, 110, 114, 115, 149, 195, 246
and AIDS, 170
and celebrity, 74, 75
eponymous fragrance of, 127
and Fashion, 2, 55, 59, 74, 87, 95, 112, 198
and licensing, 124, 143
socializing, 71, 76, 139, 194
and Versailles (1973), 87
Hamnett, Katharine, 147
Hanover, Christian von, 37
Hartman, John, 132
Hayman, Fred and Gayle, 65
Heche, Anne, 235
Hepburn, Audrey, 17
Herman, Stan, 261
Herrera, Carolina, 252
Herz, Michael, 260–61, 272
Hoffman, Dustin, 138
Hofmann, Hans, 70
Hohenlohe-Langenburg, Alfonso, 36
Holocaust, 11–16, 18–19, 21–22, 24, 26, 39, 171, 173, 239
Home Shopping Network (HSN), 208, 223, 228, 237, 246
Horowitz, Joel, 260
Horyn, Cathy, 245, 248, 260
Huston, Anjelica, 75
Diane von Furstenberg Page 32