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Peter Callahan's Party Food

Page 13

by Peter Callahan


  2 tablespoons granulated sugar

  2 teaspoons baking powder

  1 teaspoon baking soda

  1 teaspoon coarse salt

  3 teaspoons ground cinnamon

  ½ cup confectioners’ sugar

  ½ cup raisins

  Heat a nonstick waffle iron according to the manufacturer’s directions.

  In a large bowl, beat together the eggs, buttermilk, melted butter, and vanilla. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, granulated sugar, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and 1 teaspoon of the cinnamon. Add the wet ingredients to the dry and combine just until smooth.

  In a small bowl, mix together the remaining 2 teaspoons cinnamon and the confectioners’ sugar.

  Pour ¼ to ⅓ cup batter into the waffle iron. Do not fill the iron completely; the waffles should look free-form and rustic. Dot the waffles with the raisins. Close the lid and bake until done, 3 to 4 minutes. Repeat with the remaining batter and raisins. Sprinkle immediately with the cinnamon sugar and serve.

  FAMILY-STYLE CLAMBAKE

  The clambake to me is one of the most all-American staples of the season. Colanders are a fun way to serve this meal; they’re iconic, and it’s nice to see them repurposed.

  This is a simple meal to prepare. You can purchase the lobsters cooked if you like, and stop by the local bakery to pick up the corn muffins. Light the grill (or a grill pan) to get char marks on the chorizo and the lemon halves—a great look without a lot of trouble. The sauces for dunking the clams and lobster can be made well ahead of time, and you can prepare the seafood, corn, and beans while the potatoes are cooking.

  Rosé is the go-to for summer, but I also love serving craft beer in a growler. It feels like it’s straight from the brewer.

  Serves 6

  On the Menu:

  4 whole 1½-pound lobsters, steamed (this page)

  Steamed Littleneck Clams (this page)

  Chorizo sausage, cut on the bias and grilled

  Corn on the cob

  Salt-Baked Potatoes (this page)

  Green Beans and Yellow Wax Beans (this page)

  Corn muffins

  Roasted Red Pepper Sauce (this page)

  Pesto (this page)

  Drawn Butter (this page)

  6 lemons, halved

  STEAMED LITTLENECK CLAMS

  Littleneck clams, with a diameter of less than two inches, are very tender and the best choice for steaming. I used to rake them with my family from mud flats at low tide along the New England coast.

  3 tablespoons unsalted butter

  4 shallots, minced

  8 garlic cloves, minced

  1 750-ml bottle of dry white wine

  3 dozen littleneck clams

  Melt the butter in a large pot over medium heat. Add the shallots and garlic and sauté until soft, 2 to 3 minutes. Pour in the wine and simmer until reduced by about one-third. Add the clams and cover the pot. Let the clams steam, shaking the pot occasionally, until they are completely open, about 10 minutes. Transfer the clams, discarding any that have not opened, and the broth to a large serving bowl.

  SALT-BAKED POTATOES

  These are a staple of the classic New England clambake, with their crusty, salty exterior and skins ready to burst from the heat.

  2 cups coarse salt

  2 pounds small baby potatoes, scrubbed

  Preheat the oven to 350°F.

  Spread the salt to fill a half-sheet pan. Set the potatoes on the salt bed, pushing them down a bit into the salt. Bake until tender, about 25 minutes.

  Discard the salt and wipe off any excess from the potatoes.

  GREEN BEANS AND YELLOW WAX BEANS

  Green beans and wax beans are like garden-fresh candy. There was always a pole covered in climbing bean vines in the gardens of my youth.

  1 pound green beans

  1 pound wax beans or yellow string beans

  2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

  2 shallots, minced

  4 garlic cloves, minced

  Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

  Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over medium heat. Prepare an ice bath in a large bowl. When the water is boiling, add the beans, cover, and cook until tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer immediately to the ice bath to stop the cooking.

  Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the shallots and garlic and sauté until soft, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove the beans from the ice water and pat dry with paper towels. Add the beans to the skillet and sauté briefly, just until they are hot again. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

  ROASTED RED PEPPER SAUCE

  Be sure to add the thyme at the end. Adding it to the blender will cause the sauce to be bitter.

  Makes about 2 cups

  3 7.5-ounce jars of roasted red peppers, drained

  1 shallot, roughly chopped

  2 teaspoons sugar

  ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

  Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

  1 tablespoon fresh thyme

  Place the drained peppers in a blender or food processor with the shallot and sugar. With the motor running, slowly stream in the oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste and transfer to a container or serving dish.

  Add the thyme and stir to combine.

  Store any leftover sauce in the fridge, tightly sealed, for up to 3 weeks.

  PESTO

  Makes about 2½ cups

  2½ cups basil leaves

  ¼ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice

  2 garlic cloves

  ¼ cup pine nuts, toasted

  3 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese

  Pinch of dried red pepper flakes

  1½ cups extra-virgin olive oil

  Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

  In a blender or food processor, combine the basil, lemon juice, and garlic and pulse until coarsely chopped. Add the pine nuts, cheese, and red pepper flakes. Pulse on low until combined, then increase the speed to medium. Slowly stream in the olive oil until the sauce just begins to come together. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve.

  Store any leftover pesto in the fridge for up to 3 weeks, or freeze for up to 6 months.

  DRAWN BUTTER

  The classic accompaniment to lobster, unsalted butter is heated slowly so that any moisture evaporates and the solids separate, leaving clear liquid butter. Store any leftover butter in a tightly covered container in the refrigerator and use it for cooking. Clarified (drawn) butter, or ghee, has a much higher smoke point than solid butter.

  Makes 1⅓ cups

  1 pound (4 sticks) unsalted butter

  Place the butter in a small saucepan over medium-low heat. Let the butter melt slowly, skimming off and discarding the white foam that rises to the surface. When the butter has completely melted and separated, carefully ladle the clear golden liquid into a serving ramekin, leaving behind any milk solids at the bottom of the pan.

  MOULES FRITES FOR A CROWD

  Moules frites, or steamed mussels with French fries, is a great example of how you don’t need that many dishes to make a memorable meal. This menu always evokes memories for me of many different wonderful meals enjoyed at a variety of French bistros. Mussels steamed in garlic and wine, twice-fried frites, a simple salad, and crusty bread to sop up all the broth makes for a great simple summer meal. Prince Edward Island (PEI) mussels are readily available and of consistently good quality. Whatever kind of mussels you choose, be sure to debeard and scrub them well. We follow the Belgian method of “blanching” the potatoes in oil and then freezing them for four hours before deep-frying to get the crispiest frites, so be sure to allow for that time in your cooking schedule. You can also freeze the blanched potatoes for up to a month ahead.

  Serves 6

  On the menu:

  Mussels Steamed in Garlic and Wine (this page)

  Frites (this page)

  Herb Aioli (this page)

  Salad of Baby Red Lettuce and Fr
isée with Sherry Vinaigrette (this page)

  Creamy Lemon Butter Sauce (this page)

  Sourdough Crostini (this page)

  MUSSELS STEAMED IN GARLIC AND WINE

  6 pounds Prince Edward Island mussels

  4 tablespoons butter

  1 large or 2 small fennel bulbs, cored and julienned

  ½ cup minced garlic

  1 750-ml bottle of dry white wine

  1 bunch of thyme, tied with twine

  ¼ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice

  1 bunch of fresh flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped

  Debeard the mussels and rinse and scrub them to get rid of any sand. Refrigerate until ready to cook.

  Melt the butter in a large, wide pot over medium heat. Add the fennel and garlic and sauté until aromatic. Add the wine, thyme bundle, and lemon juice and cook until the liquid has reduced by one-quarter.

  Add the mussels and cover the pot. Cook, shaking the pot occasionally, until all the mussels are open, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer the mussels to a large serving bowl, discarding any that have not opened. Remove the thyme bundle and pour the broth over the mussels. Garnish with parsley and serve immediately.

  FRITES

  5 large Yukon gold potatoes (about 2½ pounds), scrubbed but not peeled

  6 cups peanut or vegetable oil

  Coarse salt

  Trim the ends of the potatoes so that each potato is 4 inches long. Cut into ¼-inch planks on a mandoline to ensure they are all even, then cut the planks lengthwise into sticks. Set the cut potatoes aside in a bowl of cold water.

  In a 5-quart pot over medium heat, heat the oil to 300°F. (If you don’t have a thermometer, drop a small cube of bread into the oil. If the oil bubbles, it’s ready.) Drain the potatoes and dry completely with paper towels. Working in batches, carefully drop the potatoes into the hot oil and blanch them for 2 to 3 minutes. Do not let them brown. With a spider or large slotted spoon, transfer the potatoes to paper towels and let them cool completely, about 15 minutes. Turn off the heat under the oil, but do not discard.

  At this point, you can wrap the potatoes in plastic and hold in the fridge for at least 4 hours or up to 2 days, or freeze them for up to a month before frying a second time, just before serving. If using from the freezer, let the potatoes come to room temperature before frying a second time.

  When ready to serve, reheat the oil to 350°F and, working in batches, carefully lower the potatoes into the hot oil. Fry until crispy and golden brown, about 8 minutes. Transfer to paper towels to drain. Sprinkle immediately with salt. Serve hot.

  HERB AIOLI

  In keeping with the Belgian style, there’s really nothing more delicious than aioli for dipping the frites. It can be made a few days in advance and refrigerated.

  Makes about 2 cups

  2 cups mayonnaise

  ¼ cup chopped fresh tarragon

  ¼ cup chopped fresh chives

  Grated zest and juice of 1 lemon

  Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

  In a small bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, tarragon, chives, lemon zest and juice, and salt and pepper to taste.

  SALAD OF BABY RED LETTUCE AND FRISÉE WITH SHERRY VINAIGRETTE

  ½ cup sherry vinegar

  1½ cups extra-virgin olive oil

  2 shallots, minced

  Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

  7 cups baby red lettuce

  7 cups frisée

  In a small bowl, whisk together the vinegar, oil, and shallots and season with salt and pepper to taste.

  Just before serving, pour the dressing into a large salad bowl, add the greens, and toss with your hands until the leaves are well dressed. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary.

  CREAMY LEMON BUTTER SAUCE

  This delicious sauce is perfect for dunking both the mussels and the crostini.

  Makes about 3 cups

  2 cups dry white wine

  4 shallots, minced

  2 pounds (8 sticks) cold unsalted butter, cut into cubes

  ¼ cup heavy cream

  Coarse salt

  In a small saucepan over medium heat, combine the wine and shallots and reduce until only ¼ cup of liquid remains. Remove the pan from the heat and slowly whisk in the butter, a few cubes at a time. Once the butter is completely incorporated, whisk in the heavy cream and salt to taste. Serve immediately or hold in a warm space.

  SOURDOUGH CROSTINI

  A good, crusty sourdough loaf is key here. These crostini are great for eating on their own or sopping up all the delicious seafood juices.

  1 long sourdough baguette, sliced on a long bias

  2 cups extra-virgin olive oil

  ¼ cup chopped fresh basil

  ¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

  Coarse salt

  Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

  Lay the bread slices in a single layer on the prepared baking sheet. In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, basil, parsley, and salt. Brush the herb oil on top of the bread slices.

  Toast in the oven until the bread is golden brown but the center is still fairly soft, 10 to 12 minutes. Serve immediately with the mussels.

  TACO NIGHT

  Tacos seem to be one of the most popular foods around these days. Lots of restaurants specialize in them and “Taco Tuesdays” have become a weekly standard. It’s really easy to set out an assortment of fillings and let everyone make their own tacos. Pair them with a great tequila and ice-cold Mexican beer in bottles and you have a terrific meal for family and friends.

  The sauces and salsas can be made in advance, and the chicken can be made a day or two ahead as well. The steak needs to be marinated overnight, but it cooks quickly, as does the fish.

  Serves 6

  On the menu:

  Chile-Rubbed Pulled Chicken (this page)

  Crispy Roasted Cod (this page)

  Grilled Hanger Steak (this page)

  Mexican Corn on the Cob (this page)

  Tortillas

  Roasted chile peppers

  Avocado

  Mango salsa

  Pico de gallo

  Hot sauce

  Thinly sliced scallions

  Lime wedges

  Mexican beer

  Tequila on ice

  CHILE-RUBBED PULLED CHICKEN

  2 tablespoons chili powder

  2 tablespoons smoked paprika

  2 tablespoons coarse salt

  1 tablespoon light brown sugar

  1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper

  1 tablespoon onion powder

  1 tablespoon garlic powder

  1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

  ¼ cup vegetable oil

  3 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs or breasts

  Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

  In a small bowl, combine the chili powder, paprika, salt, brown sugar, black pepper, onion powder, garlic powder, and cayenne. Add the oil and stir to make a paste.

  Rub the paste all over the chicken pieces, making sure they are well seasoned. Lay the chicken in a single layer on the prepared baking sheet and bake until the juices run clear, about 20 minutes for thighs, 30 minutes for breasts.

  Transfer the cooked chicken to a large bowl and, when it has slightly cooled, shred into smaller pieces using two forks or your hands.

  CRISPY ROASTED COD

  Grated zest of 3 lemons

  ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

  1 tablespoon coarse salt

  1 pound skinless cod fillets

  Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

  In a small bowl, combine the lemon zest, oil, and salt.

  Lay the cod fillets in a single layer on the prepared baking sheet. Cover the fillets with the lemon zest mixture and bake until a sharp knife slides easily into the center of the fillet, about 12 minutes.

  GRILLED HANGER STEAK

  Th
e steak should be marinated overnight for optimal flavor.

  1½ pounds hanger steak, trimmed

  3 cups extra-virgin olive oil

  4 shallots, minced

  2 bunches of thyme

  Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

  Place the steak in a pan just large enough to hold it. Pour in the oil (it should cover the meat) and sprinkle the shallots and thyme over the top. Cover with plastic wrap and marinate in the fridge overnight.

  Bring the meat to room temperature an hour before cooking. Scrape off the marinade and season liberally with salt and pepper.

  Preheat the oven to 350°F.

  Heat a grill or an ovenproof grill pan to high. Sear the meat, 4 to 5 minutes per side. Transfer the pan to the oven and roast for 8 to 10 minutes for medium rare. Let the meat rest for 15 minutes before slicing and serving. The meat will continue to cook while it rests.

  MEXICAN CORN ON THE COB

  6 ears fresh corn, shucked

  1 cup grated cotija cheese

  3 tablespoons chili powder

  Grated zest and juice of 2 limes

  Heat a grill or grill pan to high. Place the corn directly on the grates, turning as char marks appear on each side, about 10 minutes total. Transfer to a platter and immediately sprinkle with the cotija cheese and chili powder. Right before serving, squeeze a few drops of lime juice over the top and sprinkle with the lime zest.

  VIETNAMESE DINNER

  Like tacos, this meal really adds the make-it-yourself aspect to the family style, this time with lettuce leaves instead of tortillas. This meal looks exotic but requires little effort—there are a lot of condiments in addition to the fillings for the wraps. The showstopper is the whole fish. It’s easy to make and people love it. Many people have never had a whole fish, and it can be nice to introduce family and friends to the cuisine of another region.

 

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