Chefs, Drugs and Rock & Roll

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Chefs, Drugs and Rock & Roll Page 44

by Andrew Friedman


  125“Lazaroff’s most ambitious” John Soeder, “Dances with Wolf & Barbara.”

  125“my animals” Ibid.

  126“Now the Astroturf” Marian Burros, “In Los Angeles, High-Style Restaurant Fare.”

  2. THE OTTO SYNDROME

  129“There is no way” John McPhee, “Brigade de Cuisine.”

  129“the center of attention” Ibid., page 44.

  130 “more than five miles” Ibid.

  130“His range is fabulous” Ibid.

  131“in the restaurant business” Ibid.

  131“Why should we accept” Ibid.

  133“pale yellow” Mimi Sheraton, “Dinner at the Elusive ‘Otto’s.’”

  133“I have a little roadhouse” Bob Greene, “Business, Privacy Down the Drain.”

  134“I guess the press can’t stand” Ibid.

  138“another victim of” Gael Greene, “La Tulipe in Bloom.”

  153“Most of my practice” Ellen Brown, Cooking with the New American Chefs, page 113.

  155“celebration of amateurs” Gael Greene, “A Celebration of Amateurs.”

  171“our idiosyncratic take” David Waltuck and Andrew Friedman, Chanterelle: The Story and Recipes of a Restaurant Classic.

  172“David Waltuck is not” Gael Greene, “The Daring Young Man.”

  4. FRENCH RESISTANCE

  214“The relative indifference” Anthony Blake and Quentin Crewe, Great Chefs of France.

  215“Bocuse and his friends” Linda Bird Francke, “Food: The New Wave.”

  218“There is one person” Craig Claiborne, “Elegance of Cuisine Is on Wane.”

  219“It was also” Alfred Portale, Gotham Bar and Grill Cookbook, page 10.

  222“One problem” David Shenk, The Genius in All of Us: New Insights into Genetics, Talent, and IQ.

  223“those who work with their hands” Craig Claiborne, “Food News: From Court to Kitchen.”

  227“This was nothing short of” Pierre Franey, “Innocence Abroad: Memories of ’39 Fair.”

  228“I think it gave people” Amy Zuber, “Henri Soulé.”

  228“Le Pavillon was” Ibid.

  247“You can learn” Bryan Miller, “His Stock in Trade Is Cooks and Clout.”

  5. THE STANFORD COURT GANG

  262“It seemed like an awesome amount” William Grimes, “Paul Prudhomme, Chef Who Put Cajun Cooking on National Stage, Dies at 75.”

  262“I remembered that the first thing” Bret Thorn, “Paul Prudhomme: A Remembrance.”

  263“The gumbo I did at Commander’s” Brett Anderson, “Paul Prudhomme: An Oral History Chronicles His Role in Revolutionizing New Orleans Cuisine.”

  264K was a character Ibid.

  264“Chef was the cook” Ibid.

  264“People hadn’t considered” Ibid.

  6. CALIFORNIA DREAMING?

  291“their own restaurants” Marian Burros, “Food Accent for the 80’s.”

  296“California relaxed elegance” Gael Greene, “What’s Hot, What’s Not.”

  299“What’s California food” Susan Heller Anderson and Maurice Carroll, “New York Day by Day.”

  304“He smiled and said” Ruth Reichl, “Goodbye to the Era of the Celebrity Chefs.”

  305“Californians are so enthusiastic” “Letters Home.”

  325“unfinished floors” Marian Burros, “New Orleans Chef.”

  330“Hollywood has its Oscars” Margaret Engel, “Cook’s Magazine Makes Annual Awards.”

  330“Now the awareness has grown” Ibid.

  334“While there are exceptions” Trish Hall, “Family Tree Nurtures a New Generation.”

  8. A ROOM OF THEIR OWN

  408“Blue Ribbon, where” Florence Fabricant, “Off the Menu.”

  414 “Can the childhood” Gael Greene, “The Tao of Pu Pu.”

  Author Interviews

  Abrams, Danny (March 11, 2013)

  Adams, Jody (July 23, 2014)

  Andrews, Colman (July 7, 2014)

  Avilez, Michael (November 7, 2013)

  Barber, George (February 2, 2012)

  Barker, Ali and Marcie (October 16, 2015)

  Batali, Mario (June 5, 2014, and June 10, 2014)

  Bauer, Michael (February 5, 2014)

  Bill, Tony (March 11, 2014)

  Birnbaum, Jan (November 7, 2013, and May 15, 2014)

  Birsh, Andy (April 12, 2010)

  Blau, Elizabeth (September 30, 2013)

  Bouley, David (April 18, 2014)

  Boulud, Daniel (July 7, 2014, and July 14, 2014)

  Bourdain, Anthony (April 29, 2014)

  Brennan, Terrance (October 17, 2013)

  Bromberg, Bruce (September 30, 2013)

  Bromberg, Eric (October 16, 2013)

  Bryan, Scott (June 29, 2014)

  Burke, David (September 12, 2015, and July 11, 2017)

  Calhoun, Jay (December 5, 2013)

  Carlin, Tom (April 2, 2014)

  Carlson, Phil (March 4, 2015)

  Castronovo, Frank (April 3, 2013)

  Cerrone, Dominick (November 7, 2016)

  Chardack, Helen (January 15, 2015)

  Chiang, Cecilia (November 6, 2013)

  Chiang, Philip (December 4, 2013)

  Citrin, Josiah (March 12, 2014)

  Clark, John (February 4, 2013)

  Colameco, Michael (November 11, 2014)

  Colicchio, Tom (March 31, 2014)

  Conley, Sue, and Peggy Smith (February 3, 2014)

  Cool, Jesse Ziff (November 7, 2013)

  Crenn, Dominique (February 3, 2014)

  Crispo, Frank (April 9, 2014, and April 24, 2014)

  Cushman, Tim (March 8, 2016)

  David, Narsai (November 7, 2013)

  Dawes, Gerry (April 13, 2013)

  De Mori, Silvio (March 14, 2014)

  Des Jardins, Traci (October 9, 2013)

  Dodge, Jim (February 5, 2014, and June 9, 2014)

  Doherty, John (June 13, 2014, and July 15, 2014)

  Ekus, Lou (April 13, 2010)

  Feniger, Susan (July 1, 2010)

  Fertig, Ed (February 21, 2014)

  Flay, Bobby (November 16, 2016)

  Forgione, Larry (October 10, 2013)

  Forley, Diane (May 22, 2017)

  Foy, Dennis (March 27, 2014)

  Frank, Ken (August 23, 2010, and October 10, 2013)

  Franz, Mark (October 7, 2013, and October 9, 2013)

  Frederick, Hal (March 22, 2014)

  Gesualdi, Chris (April 1, 2013)

  Goin, Suzanne (October 3, 2013)

  Gold, Rozanne, and Michael Whiteman (August 21, 2010, and March 5, 2014)

  Goldstein, Joyce (May 12, 2014)

  Gonzalez, Carmen (March 7, 2013)

  Gordon, Seth (November 12, 2013)

  Gordon, Shep (November 12, 2013)

  Goutal, Jean (July 1, 2014)

  Guilfoyle, Bill (November 7, 2016)

  Harding, Alan (March 27, 2013)

  Harris, L. John (May 15, 2014)

  Hayden, Gerry (July 10, 2014)

  Hazen, Sam (May 9, 2013)

  Healy, Patrick (December 5, 2013)

  Heffernan, Kerry (April 2, 2013, and October 29, 2013)

  Higgins, Bill (May 12, 2014)

  Hill, Bruce (February 4, 2014)

  Hoffman, Peter (September 8, 2016)

  Jones, Lee (January 16, 2014)

  Kalt, Stephen (October 2, 2013)

  Katz, Bill (March 20, 2014)

  Keller, Loretta (February 3, 2014)

  Keller, Thomas (December 3, 2013)

  Kinch, David (November 6, 2013, and May 15, 2014)

  Klausner, Manny and Willette (March 14, 2014)

  Kleiman, Evan (October 4, 2013)

  Kline, Miles, and Pamela Tozer (May 15, 2014)

  Klugman, Roberta (October 7, 2013)

  Kowalski, John (November 7, 2016)

  Kratz, David (October 29, 2013)

  Kretchmer, Jerry (June 3, 2010)

  Kuleto, Pat (October 11, 2013)
/>   Lazaroff, Barbara (March 13, 2014)

  Lee, Christopher (June 21, 2014)

  Liederman, David (November 6, 2014)

  Lo, Anita (March 4, 2014)

  Lomonaco, Michael (March 9, 2010, and March 31, 2013)

  Luchetti, Emily (January 15, 2012)

  Luongo, Pino (October 27, 2014)

  Lyle, Stephen (April 1, 2013)

  Lynch, Barbara (July 23, 2014)

  Lyness, Stephanie (October 31, 2013)

  Maccioni, Sirio and Marco (April 9, 2014)

  Madison, Deborah (April 7, 2014)

  Mahler, David (February 10, 2014)

  Majer, Chris (March 20, 2014)

  Malouf, Waldy (March 24, 2017)

  Mantuano, Tony (November 4, 2016)

  Marder, Bruce (October 2, 2013)

  Marshal, Kit (August 30, 2010)

  Master, Melvyn (September 9, 2013)

  Matsusaka, Kazuto (March 13, 2014)

  Matthews, Wendi (March 12, 2014)

  May, Tony (May 7, 2014)

  McCarty, Michael (August 19, 2010, and April 17, 2013)

  McNeely, Lynn (July 3, 2014)

  Meyer, Danny (July 15, 2014)

  Michelle, Loren (June 11, 2013)

  Miller, Bryan (October 24, 2014)

  Milliken, Mary Sue (June 23, 2010, and October, 4, 2013)

  Moonen, Rick (February 10, 2012, and March 11, 2014)

  Morris, Robert (May 14, 2014)

  Moulton, Sara (November 26, 2016)

  Murkovsky, Charles (April 1, 2015)

  Murphy, Neil (October 28, 2016)

  Nasatir, Marcia (June 21, 2010)

  Nieporent, Drew (April 2, 2013, and February 28, 2014)

  Nish, Wayne (April 5, 2013)

  Novi, John (September 12, 2016)

  Oakes, Nancy (February 3, 2014)

  O’Connell, Patrick (November 20, 2016)

  Ogden, Bradley (October 8, 2013)

  O’Keeffe, Buzzy (September 12, 2013)

  Palmer, Charlie (February 14, 2013, and October 3, 2013)

  Parsons, Russ (October 4, 2013)

  Passot, Roland (February 5, 2014)

  Patterson, Daniel (February 5, 2014)

  Pawlcyn, Cindy (October 11, 2013)

  Peel, Mark (June 25, 2010, and June 30, 2010)

  Perelman, Steven (August 20, 2014)

  Pforzheimer, Andy (November 18, 2014)

  Pintabona, Don (April 8, 2010, and July 10, 2014)

  Pirie, Gayle (February 6, 2014)

  Ponzek, Debra (May 10, 2013)

  Portale, Alfred (June 22, 2010, and March 25, 2015)

  Price Becker, Alison (February 3, 2015)

  Pritsker, Bob (September 14, 2016)

  Puck, Wolfgang (June 6, 2016)

  Puro, Karen (March 21, 2014)

  Raoul, Serge and Guy (January 12, 2015)

  Reichl, Ruth (October 21, 2016)

  Riou, Hervé (August 19, 2013)

  Rodgers, Judy (interview conducted by, and courtesy of, Joyce Goldstein, May 20, 2010)

  Romano, Michael (May 7, 2014)

  Rosenthal, Mitch (February 5, 2014)

  Rossman, Arnold (March 4, 2014)

  Rothstein, Daniel (June 22, 2010)

  Rush, Karen (March 7, 2013)

  Ryan, Tim (March 14, 2013)

  Sacco, Amy (April 16, 2014)

  Sailhac, Alain (October 22, 2013)

  Sailhac, Arlene Feltman (October 28, 2013)

  Salk, Donald (December 5, 2013)

  Schenk, John (November 1, 2013)

  Schmidt, Jimmy (March 15, 2014)

  Schoenfeld, Ed (June 19, 2010)

  Sedlar, John (October 5, 2013)

  Selvaggio, Piero (December 4, 2013, and December 6, 2013)

  Sheraton, Mimi (October 24, 2016)

  Shire, Lydia (July 23, 2014)

  Sibley, Barbara (November 16, 2016)

  Silverton, Nancy (October 2, 2013, and March 13, 2014)

  Soltner, André (December 5, 2016)

  Somerville, Annie (May 14, 2014)

  Sparks, Katy (October 24, 2016)

  Splichal, Joachim (October 4, 2013)

  Stoicheff, Jennifer Wren (January 29, 2014)

  Stone, Larry (May 16, 2014)

  Swerman, Jannis (October 3, 2013)

  Telepan, Bill (March 24, 2010)

  Terrail, Patrick (April 20, 2014)

  Tesar, John (April 7, 2014)

  Thompson, Charles (October 3, 2013)

  Tingle, Ralph (January 9, 2015)

  Tivy, Matthew (December 1, 2014)

  Tower, Jeremiah (March 5, 2012; November 5, 2013; and March 6, 2014)

  Traunfeld, Jerry (January 28, 2014)

  Tusk, Michael (May 13, 2014)

  Unterman, Patricia (May 13, 2014)

  Valenti, Tom (March 24, 2010)

  Van Aken, Norman (February 21, 2013)

  Vranian, Steve (February 21, 2014)

  Walsh, Brendan (November 7, 2016)

  Waltuck, David (March 15, 2010, and August 24, 2010)

  Waltuck, David and Karen (January 21, 2014, and February 18, 2014)

  Waters, Alice (August 19, 2014)

  Waxman, Jonathan (March 15, 2010; September 16, 2014; January 24, 2014; and September 24, 2015)

  Weinstein, Michael (March 21, 2014)

  Weir, Joanne (October 7, 2013)

  Wells, Barbara (December 9, 2014)

  Wesson, Josh (October 5, 2016)

  White, Jasper (July 24, 2014)

  Williams, Jody (October 21, 2013)

  Williams, Patricia (July 2, 2014)

  Wilson, Herb (September 29, 2013)

  Wine, Barry (March 8, 2010, and July 26, 2014)

  Wine, Susan (July 15, 2017)

  Wise, Victoria (September 2, 2016)

  Wolf, Clark (March 22, 2014)

  Yosses, Bill (April 17, 2015)

  Zakarian, Geoffrey (March 15, 2010)

  Zeidler, Marvin (October 1, 2013)

  Zweben, Paul (September 18, 2013)

  Sources

  INTRODUCTION: PREP WORK

  Batterberry, Michael and Ariane. On the Town in New York: The Landmark History of Eating, Drinking, and American Entertainment from the American Revolution to the Food Revolution. Routledge, 1999.

  Brown, Ellen. Cooking with the New American Chefs. Harper & Row, 1985.

  Burros, Marian. “American Chef’s Long Road to Success.” The New York Times, October 1, 1986.

  Clark, Robert. James Beard: A Biography. HarperCollins, 1993.

  Fabricant, Florence. “Celebrating the Ringmaster of the Restaurant Circus.” The New York Times, February 14, 2007.

  Francke, Linda Bird, with Scott Sullivan and Seth Goldschlager. “Food: The New Wave.” Newsweek, August 11, 1975.

  Friedman, Andrew. Knives at Dawn: America’s Quest for Culinary Glory at the Legendary Bocuse d’Or Competition. Free Press, 2009.

  Glaser, Milton, and Jerome Snyder. “Food, Glorious Food.” New York, January 3, 1972.

  Goldstein, Bethsheba. “Under the Brooklyn Bridge: The Origins of the Restaurant FOOD.” Soho Memory Project (sohomemory.com), undated.

  Goldstein, Joyce, with Dore Brown. Inside the California Food Revolution: Thirty Years That Changed Our Culinary Consciousness. University of California Press, 2013.

  Haberman, Clyde, ed. The Times of the Seventies. Black Dog & Leventhal, 2013.

  Kahn, Howie. “When Eating and Art Became One.” T, May 10, 2013.

  Kamp, David. “Cooking Up a Storm.” Vanity Fair, October 2006.

  Kennedy, Randy. “When Meals Played the Muse.” The New York Times, February 21, 2007.

  Kuh, Patric. The Last Days of Haute Cuisine: America’s Culinary Revolution. Penguin Books, 2001.

  Lam, Francis. “Edna Lewis and the Black Roots of American Cooking.” The New York Times, October 28, 2015.

  Mallory, Heather A. “The Nouvelle Cuisine Revolution: Expressions of National Anxieties and Aspirations in French Culinary Discourse 1969–1996.” Dissertation, Duke Univ
ersity, 2011.

  McNamee, Thomas. Alice Waters and Chez Panisse: The Romantic, Impractical, Often Eccentric, Ultimately Brilliant Making of a Food Revolution. Penguin, 2007.

  Myhrvold, Nathan. “The Art in Gastronomy: A Modernist Perspective.” Gastronomica 11:1 (Spring 2011): 13–22.

  Pace, Eric. “Mario Savio, 53, Campus Protestor, Dies.” The New York Times, November 7, 1996.

  Reichl, Ruth. “How to Build an Empire: L.A.’s Bruce Marder, Who Gave Us West Beach Cafe and Rebecca’s, Hopes DC 3 Will Also Take Off.” Los Angeles Times, December 4, 1988.

  Rockwell, John, ed. The Times of the Sixties. Black Dog & Leventhal, 2014.

  Rodgers, Judy. The Zuni Cafe Cookbook: A Compendium of Recipes and Cooking Lessons from San Francisco’s Beloved Restaurant. W. W. Norton & Company, 2002.

  Smyth, Ned. “Gordon Matta-Clark.” Artnet.com, undated.

  Sokolov, Raymond A. “Anyone for Cooking Lessons in the Long, Cold Winter Ahead?” The New York Times, September 7, 1971.

  Tower, Jeremiah. California Dish: What I Saw (and Cooked) at the American Culinary Revolution. Free Press, 2003.

  Urvater, Michèle, and David Liederman. Cooking the Nouvelle Cuisine in America: A Glorious Collection of Original Recipes. Workman Publishing, 1979.

  Waters, Alice, and friends. 40 Years of Chez Panisse: The Power of Gathering. Clarkson Potter, 2011.

  1. NEW WORLD ORDER

  Anderson, Susan Heller. “Coast’s Latest: ‘Francasian’ Cuisine.” The New York Times, November 9, 1983.

  Andrews, Colman. My Usual Table: A Life in Restaurants. Ecco, 2014.

  ———. “Views and Reviews of a Los Angeles Chef.” The New York Times, January 28, 1981.

  Balla, Lesley. “Susan Feniger and Mary Sue Milliken Are Cooking Like It’s 1981.” Los Angeles, February 16, 2016.

  Barrier, Michael. “The Chef as Famous as His Customers.” Nation’s Business, July 1991.

  Baum, Gary. “The Brilliant, Bitter History of L.A.’s Fabled Ma Maison, Where Welles and Nicholson Were Regulars.” The Hollywood Reporter, July 24, 2015.

  Burros, Marian. “In Los Angeles, High-Style Restaurant Fare.” The New York Times, July 4, 1984.

  Colen, Bruce David. “The Daring Young Chef Finds Another Maison.” Los Angeles, September 1978.

  ———. “Michael, Throw the Gloat Ashore.” Los Angeles, July 1979.

  Eisner, Michael D., with Aaron Cohen. Working Together: Why Great Partnerships Succeed. Harper Business, 2010.

  Freedman, Paul. Ten Restaurants That Changed America. W. W. Norton & Company, 2016.

  Harmetz, Aljean. “Hollywood: This Way In.” The New York Times, March 13, 1983.

  Kuh, Patric. The Last Days of Haute Cuisine: The Coming of Age of American Restaurants. Penguin, 2001.

 

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