McIlhenny did much more than bemoan what was happening to the egrets; he did something about it. Both his home and his business were located on Louisiana’s Avery Island, where he built a sanctuary, which he called Bird City, whose main purpose was to care for egrets, protect them from harm, and save them from extinction. President Theodore Roosevelt, widely regarded as the “father of American conservationism,” called Bird City “the most noteworthy reserve in the country.” For the rest of his life, McIlhenny, as busy as he was, would find the time to study and save bird life. It is estimated that over a forty-year period, he personally banded more than 285,000 birds.
And he did not stop there. Buoyed by the success of Bird City, McIlhenny began purchasing enormous tracts of land — almost one million acres in all — in other wilderness areas of Louisiana and turning them into wildlife sanctuaries. When he found that he could not personally afford certain of these purchases, he convinced some of the wealthiest individuals in America to help finance them.
As if all this were not enough, McIlhenny also transformed his personal 250-acre estate, which he called Jungle Gardens, into a nursery that included 60 varieties of bamboo, 150 varieties of camellias, and 1,700 different kinds of irises, many of which he had introduced to the world through his own experimentation. Given all these interests, it was not surprising that McIlhenny also published several books, with titles such as The Autobiography of an Egret, The Alligator’s Life History, and Bird City. Ned McIlhenny died in 1949 at the age of seventy-seven.
REINDEER
When the Bear arrived to pick up the whalers and their rescuers, there were 391 reindeer remaining at Point Barrow, 201 from the original herd and 190 fawns that had been born after the herd had been delivered. The deer that had been slaughtered had provided some 12,500 pounds of fresh meat for the whalers, making it possible, in Jarvis’s words, “to bring the men through without extreme suffering and sickness.” It was decided that the remaining reindeer should be given to Dr. Marsh at the Presbyterian mission to benefit the indigenous people at Point Barrow. By this time Jarvis, like Tom Lopp, had become a firm believer in the value of reindeer in improving the indigenous people’s well-being. “The whole coast is well adapted for them,” he wrote, “and I know nothing that would be so beneficial as their introduction in large numbers through out all the northern part of Alaska.”
The reindeer’s role in the rescue of the whalemen drew attention to these unique animals. In the decade that followed the rescue, many voices spoke out predicting how profoundly the raising of reindeer would benefit the native-born people of Alaska. Others saw a whole new value in the deer. “The day is coming,” author Frank Carpenter wrote, “when reindeer meat will be sold in our American markets just like beef and mutton. This reindeer meat will come from Alaska.” By 1930, the number of deer in Alaska had risen to some 250,000.
All such predictions, however, proved to be false. The government was unable to develop an effective system by which the native population, widely scattered throughout a vast area, could herd and care for reindeer in enormous numbers. At the same time, private companies, which had no interest in the natives’ well-being but sought to reap profits in the animals’ potential as a major food source, began to take over the reindeer industry. Their hopes were dashed when the American public never developed a taste for reindeer meat. Today, there are less than 20,000 reindeer in Alaska, and the number grows smaller every year.
GEORGE FRED TILTON
George Fred Tilton, the Belvedere’s mate who had been sent out by his fellow stranded whalers on the one-in-a-million chance he might make it all the way to a West Coast port and seek aid, continued his extraordinary journey after his unexpected encounter with David Jarvis. In many ways, this part of his travels was even more remarkable than all he had endured before meeting Jarvis.
After leaving Jarvis, Tilton, battling through yet another series of blizzards, reached St. Michael. Ten days later, after crossing mountain ranges through storms that destroyed some of his dogs, he and the guides who accompanied him arrived at Andreafski. When he sought to purchase the fresh team of dogs that he needed to carry on, the traders in the village, knowing his desperation, set a price on the dogs much higher than Tilton could afford to pay.
Fortunately, a Moravian missionary, sympathetic to what Tilton was trying to accomplish, stepped in and not only supplied the whaler with new dogs but also guided him all the way to Katmai, a village on the Shelikof Strait, more than four hundred miles away. When Tilton arrived at Katmai, he found that the only boat available was an old, damaged, small fishing vessel. Refusing to give up this far along, he mended the boat as best he could and then managed to take it across the turbulent and dangerous water of the Shelikof Strait to Kodiak Island. At Kodiak, he was able to secure passage on a steamboat, which arrived in Portland, Oregon, on April 8, 1898.
Tilton had been absolutely convinced that Jarvis had no chance of accomplishing his mission. The irony of his almost unbelievable journey was that by the time he arrived in Portland, the Overland Relief Expedition had reached Point Barrow and the rescue of the whalemen was well under way. But that does not diminish the courage and determination displayed in his heroic attempt to give his fellow whalers what he thought was their only chance for survival.
Tilton would return to whaling and would eventually become captain of the Belvedere. Later he would distinguish himself as an officer in the United States Navy. He would spend the last years of his career in a most rewarding way. As curator aboard the Charles W. Morgan, the last of the great whaling ships, which had been put on display in New Bedford before being permanently moved to Mystic Seaport, he spent hours telling stories of the glory days of whaling. Most interesting of all the stories, the majority of the thousands of visitors agreed, were Tilton’s accounts of his own remarkable adventures.
September 10–September 28, 1897
Eight whaleships with more than 265 men aboard become locked in the ice off Point Barrow, Alaska. Two of the ships are destroyed by the ice.
Mid-October, 1897
The ship Alexander arrives in San Francisco with news of the whalers’ desperate plight.
November 15, 1897
Treasury Secretary Lyman Gage relays President William McKinley’s orders that a rescue mission be launched.
November 27, 1897
The Revenue Cutter Service ship Bear, with the Overland Relief Expedition members aboard, leaves Seattle for the Arctic.
December 13, 1897
Heavy ice prevents the Bear from putting the members of the rescue party ashore at Cape Prince of Wales.
December 16, 1897
The Bear lands the rescue party ashore near the village of Tununak.
December 18, 1897
Jarvis, Call, Bertholf, and other members of the rescue mission set out from Tununak.
December 21, 1897
Jarvis orders Bertholf to remain at the village of Ki-yi-lieug-a-mute to acquire fresh dogs.
December 22, 1897
The Bear puts into Dutch Harbor, Alaska, for the winter.
December 30, 1897
Jarvis and Call reach St. Michael.
January 1, 1898
Jarvis leaves a note for Bertholf instructing him to join Jarvis and Call at Unalakleet with fresh dogs.
January 3, 1898
Jarvis and Call encounter George Fred Tilton.
January 5, 1898
Jarvis leaves a note for Bertholf ordering him to take the supplies he has purchased at Unalakleet and transport them to Cape Blossom for the final leg of the rescue mission to Point Barrow.
January 12, 1898
Jarvis and Call acquire sled reindeer at Golovnin Bay.
January 14, 1898
Jarvis has two near disasters with his reindeer sled.
January 19, 1898
Jarvis and Call reach Charlie Artisarlook’s reindeer station at Cape Rodney.
January 24, 1898
Jarvis, Call, and Artisarlo
ok reach Tom Lopp’s reindeer station at Cape Prince of Wales.
February 3, 1898
Jarvis, Call, Lopp, and the deer herd set out for Point Barrow.
February 5, 1898
Jarvis and Call leave Lopp and the herd and head for Kotzebue Sound.
February 6, 1898
Jarvis and Call encounter the native Perninyuk and hire him to guide them to Cape Blossom.
February 11, 1898
After a long and dangerous journey, Bertholf arrives with the supplies at Samms’s mission at Cape Blossom.
February 12, 1898
Jarvis and Call cross Kotzebue Sound and arrive at Samms’s mission, where they find Bertholf and the supplies.
February 16, 1898
Jarvis and Call trek to Point Hope seeking news of the stranded whalers.
February 20, 1898
At Point Hope, Jarvis and Call learn of the whalers’ deteriorating condition.
February 26, 1898
After leaving Point Hope, Jarvis finds Lopp and the herd at the Kivalina River.
March 6, 1898
Traveling separately, Jarvis and Call and Lopp and the herd head for Point Barrow.
March 25, 1898
Jarvis and Call reach the Belvedere.
March 29, 1898
Jarvis and Call arrive at Point Barrow.
March 30, 1898
Lopp and the reindeer herd arrive at Point Barrow.
June 14, 1898
The Bear leaves its winter quarters and heads for Point Barrow.
July 2, 1898
A huge storm strikes Point Barrow, destroying the Rosario.
July 19, 1898
Captain Tuttle and the Bear encounter men from Point Barrow sent by Jarvis with the news that help must arrive by August 1.
July 27, 1898
The Bear spots the Belvedere and leaves supplies for its crew.
July 28, 1898
The Bear reaches Point Barrow.
August 1–August 15, 1898
With those who have been stranded at Point Barrow waiting to board her, the Bear finds itself trapped in the ice.
August 16, 1898
The Bear finally breaks free of the ice and heads home with the whalers and the men of the Overland Relief Expedition.
September 13, 1898
The Bear arrives in Seattle.
Key to abbreviations:
ISEGR: Institute of Social, Economic, and Government Research
Overland Expedition Report: Report of the Cruise of the U.S. Revenue Cutter Bear and the Overland Expedition for the Relief of the Whalers in the Arctic Ocean
Chapter One: Stranded
“Never in all . . . which they sailed.” Everett S. Allen, p. 159.
“We have to . . . bad this year.” Log of the Alexander.
“This went on . . . a dangerous position.” Arthur James Allen, p. 48.
“Back and forth . . . strain much longer” and “I can tell you . . . happy set of men.” Taliaferro, p. 195.
“In their search . . . of the Indies.” Ellis, p. ix.
“we expect to obtain . . . from our explorations.” Bernard, p. 105.
“For me the real . . . is absolutely unknown.” Ibid., p.106.
“was here to . . . collecting shipwrecked sailors?” Brower, p. 201.
“A sorry-looking . . . contest for them.” Arthur James Allen, p. 224.
“Mr. Denny, the chief . . . was slow work.” Ibid., p. 56.
“At nine o’clock . . . face and hands.” Bernard, p. 109.
“The house would . . . sickness and death.” Arthur James Allen, p. 64.
“As soon as . . . shifted to me.” Taliaferro, pp. 271–272.
“This morning I . . . or sixty below?” Bernard, p. 110.
“Last night . . . by this decision.” Taliaferro, p. 274.
“I told her . . . had no proof.” Brower, p. 275.
Chapter Two: An Audacious Plan
“The best information . . . to the rescue.” Overland Expedition Report, p. 5.
“The first and . . . on the hoof.” Ibid., p. 6.
“Fogs are frequent . . . their own vessel.” Starbuck, p. 99.
“I long for . . . you are worshipped.” Berton, p. 253.
“When the cabin . . . small ice floe.” McKinley, p. 48.
“Any Arctic whaleman . . . the country impassable.” Tilton, p. 171.
“If you are . . . question your courage.” Overland Expedition Report, p. 74.
“as a boy . . . reach the ocean.” Kroll, p. 3.
“the spirit which . . . through life.” Ibid., p. 3.
“It is extremely . . . only eighteen days.” Bertholf, p. 4.
“On the morning . . . make its appearance.” Ibid., p. 4.
“Knowing that as . . . full speed [south].” Overland Expedition Report, p. 13.
“At the time . . . for Cape Vancouver.” Bertholf, p. 4.
“The beach at . . . unfit for use.” Overland Expedition Report, p. 29.
“We stood on . . . our friends again.” Bertholf, p. 4.
Chapter Three: The Long Trek Begins
“The Alaskan sleds . . . spilling the load.” Bertholf, pp. 5–6.
“Our camp-gear . . . fatigue of travelling.” Ibid., pp. 7–8.
“The first day . . . deep valley between.” Ibid., p. 6.
“There was no . . . here and there.” Ibid., pp. 8–9.
“I have seen . . . signs of fatigue.” Ibid., p. 6.
“These huts are . . . the outer entrance.” Ibid., p. 7.
“The hospitality of . . . finished our meal.” Overland Expedition Report, p. 65.
“[Kalenin] informed us . . . the same thing.” Ibid., p. 35.
“Before the Bear . . . directed to them.” Ibid., p. 39.
Chapter Four: An Extraordinary Encounter
“It was necessary . . . far north as [the approaches to Point Barrow].” Overland Expedition Report, p. 42.
“It is characteristic . . . to its dangers.” Ibid., p. 70.
“On starting out . . . warm air in.” Ibid., p. 53.
“It is always . . . fire for tea.” Ibid., p. 76.
“Our road was . . . we had accomplished.” Ibid., p. 44.
“a white whaler-man” and “from the ship.” Tilton, p. 208.
“found that our . . . guarantee of relief.” Ibid., pp. 183–184.
“It was then . . . a whaling voyage.” Ibid., p. 185.
“Many of the . . . such trying conditions.” Ibid., p. 183.
“delighted to know . . . never reach there.” Ibid., p. 207.
Chapter Five: Blizzards, Reindeer, and Near Disaster
“Most everyone of . . . alone their clothes.” Arthur James Allen, p. 64.
“Sir, I enclose . . . send to you.” Bixby, pp. 163–164.
“The runners would . . . to drag along.” Overland Expedition Report, pp. 45–46.
“[The deer] are harnessed . . . quiet and control:” Ibid., p. 47.
“All hands must . . . in the snow.” Ibid., p. 47.
“bolted down the . . . even for contemplation.” Ibid., pp. 48–49.
“It was impossible . . . to help myself.” Ibid., p. 48–49.
“made the best . . . for the night” and “In an hour . . . hands and knees.” Ibid., p. 49.
“The gale still . . . there another day.” Ibid., p. 49.
“We hoped to . . . it from freezing.” Ibid., p. 50.
Chapter Six: A Desperate Request
“From whatever . . . for Point Barrow.” Ibid., pp. 8–9.
“I had looked . . . task it brought.” Overland Expedition Report, p. 50.
“Jarvis knew well . . . condition of the unfortunate [whalemen].” Taliaferro, pp. 234–235.
“I explained to . . . own free will.” Overland Expedition Report, p. 51.
“tell Mr. Jarvis . . . will we do?” Taliaferro, p. 235.
“If you will . . . that doubtful drive.” Ibid., p. 245.
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sp; “I had dreaded . . . men in distress.” Overland Expedition Report, p. 51.
Chapter Seven: Another Agonizing Decision
“I think the . . . on the expedition.” Overland Expedition Report, p. 55.
“the thermometer . . . still blowing.” Ibid., p. 55.
“About 8 o’clock . . . meant to freeze.” Ibid., p. 54.
“Pushing and lifting . . . bag, and sleep.” Ibid., pp. 54–55.
“I thought the . . . violence of the work.” Ibid., p. 55.
“Mr. Lopp is . . . its speedy accomplishment.” Ibid., p. 6.
“was indispensable . . . in the country.” Ibid., p. 56.
“The early successes . . . form of wealth.” ISEGR, p. 7.
“Tom Gorrah” and “the good man.” Carpenter, chapter 26.
“You can imagine . . . in distress.” Taliaferro, p. 240.
Chapter Eight: Bertholf Battles the Odds
“We were off . . . to feel cold.” Bertholf, p. 7.
“Under ordinary circumstances . . . in this climate.” Overland Expedition Report, p. 103.
“I was not . . . medicines with me.” Ibid., p. 105.
“As Alexis had . . . further his recovery.” Ibid., p. 105.
The Impossible Rescue Page 13