45. Williams, Food in the United States, 1820s–1890, 77.
46. Jones, American Food, 79.
47. Funderburg, Chocolate, Strawberry, and Vanilla, 12–13.
48. Hooker, Food and Drink in America, 123.
49. Society Small Collections “C,” Daniel W. Coxe, “E. Goodfellow & Son's Receipt for Pastry and Cakes,” “Mrs. Goodfellow Receipt for pastry,” Historical Society of Pennsylvania; Edward Shippen Burd, Papers 1799–1848, “Goodfellow & Coane's Receipt for pastry and cakes, Jan. 24, 1842, Historical Society of Pennsylvania.
50. Belden, The Festive Tradition, 3, 94.
51. Garrett, Memories of Philadelphia in the Nineteenth Century, 5.
52. Belden, The Festive Tradition, 4.
CHAPTER THREE: DINING OUT
1. Allen, The Business of Food, 193.
2. Davidson, The Oxford Companion to Food, 661.
3. McIntosh, American Food Habits in Historical Perspective, 85.
4. Weaver interview, January 2009; Burt, Philadelphia, 303.
5. Weaver interview, January 21, 2009.
6. Burt, Philadelphia, 303–304.
7. Weigley, Philadelphia, 221.
8. Weaver interview, January 21, 2009.
9. Jones, American Food, 36.
10. Coyle, Cook's Books, 18.
11. Pillsbury, From Boarding House to Bistro, 24.
12. Scharf and Westcott, History of Philadelphia, 2: 981; Pillsbury, From Boarding House to Bistro, 22–24.
13. Pennsylvania Trail of History Cookbook, 18.
14. Pillsbury, From Boarding House to Bistro, 3.
15. Staib, City Tavern Cookbook, 11.
16. Pennsylvania Trail of History Cookbook, 18; Staib, City Tavern Cookbook, 11.
17. Scharf and Westcott, History of Philadelphia, 2: 981.
18. Watson's Annals, The Penn Family, 1857, vol. 1.
19. Pillsbury, From Boarding House to Bistro, 4.
20. Staib, City Tavern Cookbook, 11.
21. Scharf and Westcott, History of Philadelphia, 2: 982.
22. Pillsbury, From Boarding House to Bistro, 20–22.
23. Ibid., 22.
24. Milnor, A History of the Schuylkill Fishing Company, 5–6.
25. Felten, “What America's Oldest Club May Quaff,” W8.
26. Wecter, The Saga Of American Society, 257–258; Issenberg, Miller, and Patel, “Members Only.”
27. Warner, The Private City, 20–21.
28. Staib, City Tavern Cookbook, 5–7; Warner, The Private City, 20–21.
29. Staib, City Tavern Cookbook, 5–7.
30. Ibid., 5.
31. Watson, Annals of Philadelphia and Pennsylvania, 464.
32. George, “Philadelphia: A Pictorial Celebration,” 33.
33. Weaver, Thirty-Five Receipts from “The Larder Invaded,” 35.
34. Scharf and Westcott, History of Philadelphia, 2: 938.
35. Schloesser, The Greedy Book, 117–118.
36. Willcox, A History of the Philadelphia Savings Fund Society, 58.
37. Weaver, Thirty-Five Receipts from “The Larder Invaded,” 35.
38. Leslie, Directions for Cookery, 66–67.
39. Weaver Interview, January 21, 2009.
40. Patterson, “The Old Patterson Mansion,” 80–84.
41. Ellen Markoe Emlen recipe book, Markoe and Emlen Family Correspondence, 1811–1876, at HSP (Phi) 2071.
42. Scharf and Westcott, History of Philadelphia, 2: 991; McCall, Old Philadelphia Houses on Society Hill, 23.
43. This grand late eighteenth-century building was one of the most distinguished Philadelphia residences before its two fires. Michel Bouvier purchased the property in 1848 and in its place constructed three brown-stones that still exist today in Philadelphia's exclusive Society Hill section. He made the middle house—260 South Third Street—his own residence for four years. Dallett, “Michel Bouvier,” 198–200. In August 2011, this restored property was listed for sale at a price of $3.2 million.
44. Weaver interview, January 21, 2009.
45. Funderburg, Chocolate, Strawberry, and Vanilla, 12–13.
46. Weaver, “Was There a Philadelphia Style?” 88.
47. Funderburg, Chocolate, Strawberry, and Vanilla, 76.
48. The Philadelphia Shopping Guide and Housekeeper's Companion for 1859.
49. Funderburg, Chocolate, Strawberry, and Vanilla, 76.
50. Hines, Marshall, and Weaver, The Larder Invaded, 28–29.
51. Poulson's American Daily Advertiser, November 13, 1817, 3.
52. Poulson's American Daily Advertiser, October 21, 1818, 1.
53. Epicurus, “Maxims to Feed By,” 545.
54. Poulson's American Daily Advertiser, December 23, 1817, 3.
55. Thomas, Foods of Our Forefathers, 155.
56. Ibid., 152, 155.
57. Reed, The Philadelphia Cookbook of Town and Country, 91.
58. Weaver, Thirty-Five Receipts from “The Larder Invaded,” 47.
CHAPTER FOUR: MRS. GOODFELLOW'S COOKING SCHOOL
1. Receipts of Pastry and Cookery, ix–xi, 109–110.
2. Ibid., ix–xi.
3. Interview with Janet Theophano, March 2009.
4. Ruffald, The Experienced English Housekeeper, 156–157.
5. Davidson, Oxford Companion to Food, 213.
6. Weaver interview, January 21, 2009.
7. Dunne and Mackie, “Cookery Books,” 56.
8. Weaver interview, January 21, 2009.
9. Jackson, With the British Army in Philadelphia, 152.
10. Aurora General Advertiser, June 28, 1796, 1.
11. Recipe Book, Philadelphia, early nineteenth century. U.S. Department of the Interior, National Park Service, Independence National Historic Park. Catalogue No. 3696, Accession No. 1370.
12. Staib, City Tavern Baking and Dessert Cookbook, 22.
13. Belden, The Festive Tradition, 103.
14. Williams, Food in the United States, 42.
15. Belden, The Festive Tradition, 103.
16. Trollope, Domestic Manners of the Americans, 226.
17. Recipe book: manuscript, 1841–1862; Ms. Codex 884. Rare Book & Manuscripts Library, University of Pennsylvania, Van Pelt Library.
18. Marjorie P.M. Brown Collection, 1763–1871 (Phi) 2015 at Historical Society of Pennsylvania.
19. Ellen Markoe Emlen recipe book, Markoe and Emlen Family Correspondence, 1811–1876 (Phi) 2071, at Historical Society of Pennsylvania.
20. McBride, Harvest of American Cooking, 55–56.
21. Colonial Receipt Book, 10.
22. Weaver interview, January 21, 2009.
23. Griswold, “Eliza Leslie.”
24. Weaver interview, January 21, 2009.
25. Weaver, A Quaker Woman's Cookbook, xvii.
26. Widdifield, Widdifield's New Cook Book.
27. Ibid.
28. Recipe book: manuscript, 1841–1862; Ms. Codex 884. Rare Book and Manuscript Library, University of Pennsylvania, Van Pelt Library.
29. Colonial Receipt Book, 10.
30. Smith, Famous Old Receipts, 84.
31. Levick, Recollections of Her Early Days, 20–24.
32. Ibid., 24.
33. Weaver interview, January 21, 2009.
34. Weaver interview, January 21, 2009.
35. Dunne and Mackie, “Cookery Books,” 57.
36. Ibid.
37. Deventer, “The Cookbook in America.”
38. Ibid.
39. Fisher, The American Cookbook, 15.
40. Longone, “From the Kitchen,” 57.
41. McWilliams, A Revolution in Eating, 228; Briggs, The English Art of Cookery.
42. Marjorie P.M. Brown Collection, 1763–1871 (Phi) 2015 at Historical Society of Pennsylvania.
43. Crag, The Tangram, 27.
44. Ibid, 27.
45. Leslie, Directions for Cookery, in Its Various Branches, 7.
46. Hartshorn salt (ammonium carbonate), also known simply as hartshorn, or
baker's ammonia, was used as a leavening agent, in the baking of cookies and other edible treats. It was used mainly in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries as a forerunner of baking powder. Davidson, Oxford Companion to Food, 372.
47. Leslie, Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book, 526.
48. McCutcheon, The Writer's Guide to Everyday Life in the 1800s, 98.
49. Franklin Fire Insurance Company Survey, Book 28–4787 (from HSP).
50. Leslie, Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book, 474.
51. Smith, Famous Old Receipts, 84.
52. Colonial Receipt Book, 10.
53. Crag, The Tangram, 28.
54. Weaver interview, January 21, 2009.
55. Weaver interview, January 21, 2009.
56. Crag, Tangram, 29.
57. Ibid., 29–30.
58. Ibid., 30.
CHAPTER FIVE: DIRECTIONS FOR COOKERY
1. Dunne and Mackie, “Philadelphia Story,” 72.
2. Johnston, History of Cecil County, Maryland, 520; Haven, “Personal Reminiscences of Miss Eliza Leslie,” 347.
3. Autobiographical Recollections by the Late Charles Robert Leslie, 1. County land records indicate that Robert Leslie's name could have originally been spelled Lasley.
4. Johnston, History of Cecil County, Maryland, 520.
5. Haven, “Personal Reminiscences of Miss Eliza Leslie,” 347.
6. Prime, The Arts & Crafts in Philadelphia, Maryland and South Carolina, 253.
7. Ibid., 253–256.
8. McCauley, “Eliza Leslie,” 161.
9. Haven, “Personal Reminiscences of Miss Eliza Leslie,” 347.
10. Autobiographical Recollections by the Late Charles Robert Leslie, 19–20.
11. McCauley, “Eliza Leslie,” 257.
12. Haven, “Personal Reminiscences of Miss Eliza Leslie,” 347.
13. Ibid., 348–49.
14. Autobiographical Recollections by the Late Charles Robert Leslie, 2–3.
15. McCauley, “Eliza Leslie,” 161–162.
16. Scharf and Westcott, History of Philadelphia.
17. Haven, “Personal Reminiscences of Miss Eliza Leslie,” 347–348.
18. Autobiographical Recollections by the Late Charles Robert Leslie, 21.
19. Haven, “Personal Reminiscences of Miss Eliza Leslie.”
20. Smith and Smith, A Buckeye Titan, 195.
21. Haven, “Personal Reminiscences of Miss Eliza Leslie.”
22. Longone, “From the Kitchen,” 47.
23. Hess and Hess, The Taste of America, 96.
24. Beshero-Bondar “Eliza Leslie,” 167.
25. Jamison and Jamison, American Home Cooking, 197.
26. Haven, “Personal Reminiscences of Miss Eliza Leslie.”
27. Weaver, Preface to Eliza Leslie's Seventy-Five Receipts, 1.
28. Smith and Smith, A Buckeye Titan, 195–198.
29. Ibid., 198.
30. Leslie, Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book, 520.
31. Weaver interview, January 21, 2009.
32. Leslie, Miss Leslie's New Receipts for Cooking.
33. Weaver interview, January 21, 2009.
34. Leslie, Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book, 1
35. Weaver interview, January 21, 2009.
36. Smith, “Charles and Eliza Leslie,” 526–527.
37. Smith and Smith, A Buckeye Titan, 195.
38. Weaver interview, January 21, 2009.
39. Jamison and Jamison, American Home Cooking, 197.
40. Dunne and Mackie, “Philadelphia Story,” 73
41. Hess and Hess, The Taste of America, 96–97.
42. Longone, “From the Kitchen,” 50.
43. Williams, Food in the United States, 60.
44. Leslie, Directions for Cookery, 322, 329, 335, 447.
45. Leslie, Leslie's Complete Cookery, 8.
46. Leslie, Miss Leslie's New Receipts for Cooking, 3, 365.
47. Walker, The Little House Cookbook, 12, 53.
48. Temple, “The Taste Is in My Mouth a Little,” 32.
49. Fleming, The Lincolns, 41.
50. Dunne and Mackie, “Philadelphia Story,” 73.
51. Leslie, Seventy-Five Receipts for Pastry, Cakes, and Sweetmeats, iii.
52. Ibid.
53. Weaver, “Goodfellow, Elizabeth,” 139–140.
54. Plante, The American Kitchen 1700 to the Present, 25.
55. Leslie, Domestic French Cookery, iii–iv.
56. Ibid.
57. Dunne and Mackie, “Philadelphia Story,” 73; Longone, “From the Kitchen,” 47.
58. Weaver interview, January 21, 2009.
59. Fussell, Masters of American Cookery, 56.
60. Robins, “Changing Taste in Food in Pennsylvania,” 9–11.
61. Pierre Blot entry on Feeding America website: http://digital.lib.msu.edu/projects/cookbooks/html/authors/author_blot.html.
62. Recipe book: manuscript, 1841–1862; Ms. Codex 884. Rare Book and Manuscript Library, Manuscripts, University of Pennsylvania, Van Pelt Library.
63. “Ragout,” in Davidson, Oxford Companion to Food, 651.
64. Smith, Oxford Companion to American Food and Drink, 551.
65. “Queries and Answers Column, Query No. 4870,” 468.
66. Leslie, Domestic French Cookery, 44, 74, 75.
67. The Lady's Receipt-Book, 97.
68. Leslie, Directions for Cookery, 209–210.
69. Longone, “From the Kitchen,” 52.
70. Weaver, Thirty-five Receipts from “The Larder Invaded,” 32.
71. Longone, “From the Kitchen,” 52.
72. Leslie, New Receipts for Cooking, 440.
73. Ibid., 439–440.
74. Leslie, Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book, 331.
75. Ibid., 325–330.
76. Davidson, Oxford Companion to Food, 433.
77. Hess and Hess, The Taste of America, 99.
78. Crump, Hearthside Cooking, 4.
79. Randolph, The Virginia House-wife, 60, 80–81.
80. Leslie, Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book, 332–333.
81. Smith, The Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, 441.
82. Leslie, New Receipts for Cooking, 3.
83. Ibid., 406.
84. Leslie, Miss Leslie's Behavior Book, 132–133.
85. Ibid., 136.
86. Leslie, Miss Leslie's Complete Cookery, 7–8.
87. Beshero-Bondar, “Eliza Leslie,” 167.
88. Scharf and Westcott, History of Philadelphia, 2: 1162.
89. Hale, Woman's Record, 722.
CHAPTER SIX: LEMON MERINGUE PIE
1. Weaver interview, January 21, 2009.
2. Food Timeline—www.foodtimeline.org.
3. Longbotham, Luscious Lemon Desserts, 6.
4. Yockelson, Baking by Flavor, 400.
5. Healy and Bugat, The Art of the Cake, 173; Davidson, The Oxford Companion to Food, 499–500.
6. Leslie, Seventy-Five Receipts, 34–36.
7. Ibid., 49–50.
8. Ibid., 58.
9. Leslie, Directions for Cookery, in Its Various Branches, 454.
10. Coleman, Cook Book, 61; Hale, The Ladies' New Book of Cookery, 316.
11. Putnam, Mrs. Putnam's Receipt Book, 145.
12. Milwaukee Journal, November 19, 1913.
13. Fussell, I Hear America Cooking, 232.
14. Neal, Biscuits, Spoonbread, and Sweet Potato Pie, 275.
15. Weaver, America Eats, 69–70.
16. Kummer, 1,001 Foods to Die For, 751.
17. Cookery As It Should Be, 13, 206.
18. Leslie, Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book, 425.
19. Handwritten recipe in Cookery As It Should Be.
20. Patent, Baking in America, 4–5.
21. Colonial Receipt Book, 178.
22. Patent, Baking in America, 123.
23. Leslie, Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book, 526.
24. Patent, Baking in America, 123.
25. Nutmeg was a popular spice in Go
odfellow's time that is not used as much today. This is unfortunate, as nutmeg adds a unique, almost woodsy component to baked goods, especially when freshly grated.
26. Patterson, Recipe Book.
27. Leslie, Directions for Cookery, in its Various Branches, 343.
28. Leslie, Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book, 526.
29. Leslie, Seventy-Five Receipts, 50–51, 102.
30. Ibid., 61.
31. Rundell, A New System of Domestic Cookery, 237.
32. Farmer, Original 1896 Boston Cooking-School Cook Book, 431.
33. Mercuri, “Cookies,” in The Oxford Companion to American Food and Drink, ed. Smith, 156.
34. Patent, Baking in America, 390.
35. Baggett, The All-American Cookie Book, 40.
36. http://www.ifood.tv/network/rose_water.
37. The Colonial Receipt Book, 145.
38. Leslie, History of Philadelphia.
39. Sax, Classic Home Desserts, 274; Weaver, A Quaker Woman's Cookbook, 339.
40. Colimore, The Philadelphia Inquirer's Guide to Historic Philadelphia, 116.
41. Franklin Fire Insurance Company Survey Book 28:4787 (Historical Society of Pennsylvania).
42. Franklin Fire Insurance Company Survey Book 57:7907 (Historical Society of Pennsylvania).
43. The Encyclopedia of Pennsylvania Biography, 510.
44. West, In the Matter of the Straightening of Girard Avenue Through the Grounds of Girard College, 67–68.
CHAPTER SEVEN: MODERN COOKING SCHOOLS
1. Shackleton, The Book of Philadelphia, 272–273.
2. Weaver interview, January 19, 2009.
3. Smith, “Cooking Schools,” in The Oxford Companion to American Food and Drink, ed. Smith, 162.
4. Longone, “Professor Blot and the First French Cooking School in New York, Part 1,” 65–66.
5. “Cooking as a Fine Art. Success of Prof. Blot's Academy Assured,” New York Times, April 7, 1865.
6. Longone, “Professor Blot and the First French Cooking School in New York, Part 1,” 66.
7. Ibid.
8. Longone, “Professor Blot and the First French Cooking School in New York, Part 2,” 53–59.
9. Arndt, Culinary Biographies, 55–56.
10. Cowan, More Work for Mother, 44.
11. Arndt, Culinary Biographies, 56.
12. Newman, “Home Economics”; Encyclopedia of Food and Culture, ed. Katz, Katz, and Weaver, 206.
13. Eisenmann, Historical Dictionary of Women's Education in the United States, 275.
Mrs. Goodfellow Page 22