Mrs. Goodfellow

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by Becky Diamond


  Weigley, Russell F., ed., and Nicholas B. Wainwright and Edwin Wolf, 2nd assoc. eds. Philadelphia: A 300-Year History. New York: W. W. Norton, 1982.

  Weld, Isaac. Travels Through the United States of North America, and the Province of Upper & Lower Canada. London: T. Tegg, 1801.

  West, R. A., reporter. In the Matter of the Straightening of Girard Avenue Through the Grounds of Girard College: testimony of witnesses, and proceedings before the jury appointed by the Court of Common Pleas of the city of Philadelphia. Court of Common Pleas (Philadelphia County), Philadelphia. Board of Directors of City Trusts. Philadelphia: G.V. Town & Son, 1875.

  White, Miles Jr. Henry Baker and Some of his Descendants. United States: s.n., 1901.

  Widdifield, Hannah. Widdifield's New Cook Book, or, Practical receipts for the housewife: comprising all the popular and approved methods for cooking and preparing all kinds of poultry, omelets, jellies…Philadelphia: T. B. Peterson, 1856.

  Willan, Anne. Great Cooks and Their Recipes: From Taillevent to Escoffier. London: Pavilion, 2000.

  Willcox, James M. A History of the Philadelphia Savings Fund Society: 1816–1916. Philadelphia: Press of J. B. Lippincott Company, 1916.

  Williams, Susan. Food in the United States, 1820s–1890. Westport, Conn.: Greenwood Press, 2006.

  Woloson, Wendy A. Refined Tastes: Sugar, Confectionery, and Consumers in Nineteenth-Century America. Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press, 2002.

  Wulf, Karin. Not All Wives: Women of Colonial Philadelphia. Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2005.

  Yockelson, Lisa. Baking by Flavor. New York: J. Wiley, 2002.

  Index

  Adelphia Club, 70

  African American cuisine, 145–146

  alcohol, 46, 186

  Allen, William W., 23

  Almond Puddings, 222

  American Cookery Books, 1742–1860 (Lowenstein), 127

  American Cookery (Simmons), 38, 171

  American cuisine, 38, 58, 132–133, 179

  American Frugal Housewife, The, 136

  American Home Cooking (Jamison), 205

  American Home Economics Association, 182

  American Philosophical Society, 105, 124

  Annals of Philadelphia and Pennsylvania (Watson), 68

  apees, 172–173

  Apple Pudding, 222–223

  apprenticeships, 30–31

  Art of Cookery, The (Glasse), 107

  Arthur, Timothy Shay, 39

  artichokes, 3, 84, 85, 88, 92, 104, 117, 154, 217

  Asian cuisine, 144

  Astolfi, Lawrence, 79

  Audot, Louis-Eustache, 138

  Augustin, Peter, 64–65

  Bailey, Abby, 129

  Bailey, Chester, 76

  Baker, Ann, 7

  Baker, William, 7

  Baking in America (Patent), 205

  baking powder, 166–167

  Bank of Philadelphia, 43–44

  Barley Water, 232

  Barrington Rusk, 214

  Barton, Benjamin Smith, 124

  Barué, Suplice, 137, 138

  Beard, James, 202, 204–205

  Beard on Food (Beard), 206

  Beck, Simone, 202

  Beecher, Catharine, 180

  Belden, Louise Conway, 62

  Bennett, Robert, 58

  Bertholle, Louisette, 202

  Beshero-Bondar, Elisa E., 127–128

  Bibliographie Gastronomique (Vicaire), 138

  Bienville, Jean-Baptiste Le Moyne de, 97

  Bingham, William, 76

  Birch, Thomas, 14, 44

  Bitting, Katherine, 138

  Bittman, Mark, 206

  Blot, Pierre, 139–140, 177–179, 183, 202

  Blue Anchor, 67

  boardinghouses, 68–69

  Bonaparte, Joseph, 23

  Bossee, Peter, 77

  Boston Cooking School, 189–196, 198

  Boston Cooking-School Cookbook, The (Farmer), 189, 192, 196–197

  Boston School Kitchen Text-Book (Lincoln), 193

  Bouvier, Eustache, 23

  Bouvier, John, 24

  Bouvier, Michael, 23

  Bouvier, Sarah Pearson, 8, 23–24

  Bradford, William, 71

  brandy, 38

  breads

  Barrington Rusk, 214

  Goodfellow's Buns, 214

  Potato Biscuit, 214

  Quick Waffles, 217

  serving of, 121

  Spanish Buns, 215–216

  Waffles, 216, 217

  Breedlove, Nancy, 163

  brick ovens, 112

  Briggs, Richard, 108

  Brillat-Savarin, Antoine, 63

  Brown, Helen Evans, 204

  Budd's Long Row, 67

  Burd, Edward Shippen, 24

  butcher, 47–48, 54, 85

  butter, 3, 89–90, 96

  cakes

  Cheese Cake, 230

  Indian Pound Cake, 230

  Mrs. Goodfellow's Queen Cake, 230–231

  Queen Cake, 231

  Queen cakes, 5, 37, 161, 169–170, 171, 207–208, 231

  candy. see confectioners

  Carey, Henry C., 126, 142

  Carolina Housewife, The (Rutledge), 133

  Carter, Susannah, 38

  cast-iron cookstoves, 111–112

  centerpieces, 120

  Chauveau, A. J., 60

  cheesecakes, 5–6, 230

  chess pie, 163

  chicken fricassee, 88–89, 117–118, 153–154, 218

  Child, Julia, 202

  Child, Lydia Maria, 136

  Citron Puddings, 223

  City Tavern, 43, 44, 71–72

  cleaning, 2, 85

  Coane, Elizabeth Goodfellow, 23

  Coane, Robert (husband), 8–9, 25–26, 98

  Coane, Robert (son), 8, 20, 21–23, 26, 41–42, 173, 176

  Cocoanut Puddings, 224

  coffee-houses, 66

  Coleman, Debbie, 162

  Colonial Receipt Book, 27, 104, 113, 167, 172

  Colony in Schuylkill, The, 69

  Complete Confectioner, The (Parkinson), 79

  Conestoga wagons, 50–51

  confectioners/confectionery, 56–58, 59

  conversation, instructions regarding, 155–156

  Cook Book (Coleman), 162

  cookbooks

  anonymous, 34–35

  format of recipes in, 111, 137

  Goodfellow's recipes in, 98, 100–101, 104, 113

  Kidder and, 94–96

  Leslie and, 33–34, 122

  Raffald and, 33

  as textbooks, 106–108

  Widdifield and, 103

  see also individual titles

  Cookery as It Should Be, 34–35, 165

  cookies

  Cookies (recipe), 220

  Gingerbread, 220

  Gingerbread, Spiced, 221

  history of, 170–172

  Jumbles, 221

  Spice Nuts, 221–222

  cooking school, Goodfellow's

  description of, 84–85

  first lesson at, 85–93

  serving meal at, 152–155

  students of, 94, 100, 101–102, 108–109

  cooking schools, overview of, 96–97, 102–103, 182–184

  see also individual schools

  Coolidge, Calvin, 164

  Cope, Thomas P., 53

  Cordon Bleu cooking school, 202

  cornmeal, 38, 142–143

  Corson, Juliet, 183–184

  Cox, Gideon, 134

  Cox, James, 17, 18

  Coxe, David W., 24

  Crag, Christopher, 109–110, 113, 114–115

  crème meringue, 162

  Crowen, Mrs. T. J., 204

  crumb-cloth, 119

  Cuisinière de la Campagne et de la Ville, La (Audot), 138

  Culinary Institute of America, 201

  Cundith, Kathy, 10

  cup cakes, 169

  curries, 145


  Custard, Lemon, 224

  see also puddings

  Dearborn, Carrie, 194–195

  desserts

  Floating Island, 232

  Swiss Cream, 232

  see also cakes; Custard, Lemon; puddings

  Directions for Cookery (Leslie), 37, 74, 133, 135–136, 141, 161

  Dock Street, description of, 16–17, 42

  docks, description of, 12–13

  Domestic Cookery (Lea), 27, 100

  Domestic French Cookery (Leslie), 65, 137, 139, 141

  Domestic Manners of the Americans (Trollope), 99–100

  domestic science, 180–182, 190

  Dunne, Patrick, 7, 136

  education, Quakers and, 29–30

  eggs, 36–37, 90, 152, 169

  embroidery lessons, 105

  Emlen, Ellen Markoe, 75–76, 101

  Emlen Cresson family, 101

  Engle, Sarah. see Patterson, Sarah Engle

  entertaining, 61–62

  Evans, Oliver, 124

  Every Lady's Book (Crowen), 204

  Experienced English Housekeeper, The (Raffald), 33, 95–96

  Famous Old Receipts, 104, 112–113

  Fannie Farmer Cookbook, The (Farmer), 198

  Fannie's Last Supper (Kimball), 199

  Farmer, Fannie Merritt, 170, 189, 191, 195–200, 204

  farmers' markets, 48, 205

  Festive Tradition, The (Belden), 62

  fireplace, 2, 87, 88, 111, 209–210

  fireworks, 77

  Fish House Club, 70

  Fish Market, 52

  Flint, James, 54

  Floating Island, 231

  Food and Cookery for the Sick and Convalescent (Farmer), 198

  Francatelli, Charles Elme, 139

  Franklin, Benjamin, 124

  Franklin House Hotel, 73, 74

  Free Training School for Women, 183

  French Cook, The (Ude), 139

  French cuisine, 63–65, 137–142, 179

  frozen desserts, 62

  Frugal Housewife, The, 38

  fruit, sugared, 99

  see also individual fruits

  Fussell, Betty, 205

  Garrett, Martha J., 62

  Gastronomic Bibliography (Bitting), 138

  Gazley, Martha, 96–97

  Gingerbread, 220

  Gingerbread, Spiced, 221

  Girard, Stephen, 23, 24, 25

  Glasse, Hannah, 8, 106–107, 144, 145

  Gleim, Betty, 149

  Goodfellow, Elizabeth

  background of, 7–9

  cooking education of, 28, 32

  description of, 1–2, 105–106, 109–110

  fellow merchants and, 17–18

  literary mentions of, 39–40

  at market, 45–48

  morning preparations of, 1–7

  nighttime and, 207–210

  signature of, 13

  success of, 81

  Goodfellow, William, 10–11, 19, 26, 208, 210

  Goodfellow's Buns, 214

  Goodfellow's Jumbles, 221

  Goodfellow's Spanish Bunns/Buns, 215

  Greedy Book, The (Schloesser), 73

  Greenough, Mrs. Ebenezer, 167

  Griswold, Rufus Wilmot, 102

  Guest, George, 67

  Hale, Sarah Josepha, 148, 162

  Hand-book of Practical Cookery (Blot), 140

  Harper, H. W., 73

  Haven, Alice B. (Neal), 125, 127

  Head, Joseph, 76–77, 114

  hearth. see fireplace

  Henrion, Sebastion, 59–60

  Henry, Alexander, 23

  Hess, John, 127, 133

  Hess, Karen, 107, 127, 133

  High (Market) Street, 12, 14, 50

  High Street Market, 47

  hitching posts, 45

  home economics, 179–182, 190

  Hooper, Sarah E., 190

  hotels, 72

  House Book, The (Leslie), 136

  Howell, Margaret Emlen, 100, 109

  Howell, Nancy, 109

  ice cream, 56, 62, 77–79

  iceboxes, 55–56

  Indian cuisine, 144–145

  Indian Meal Book, The (Leslie), 142–143

  Indian Pound Cake, 38–39, 230

  ingredients

  importance of quality, 49, 85, 111, 134, 204, 205–206

  imported, 12–13, 49, 96, 143

  leavening, 35–36

  at market, 45–48

  native, 38

  preparation of, 2–3

  Quakers and, 26–27

  spoilage and, 54–56

  Israel, Susan, 101–102, 113

  Issac Newton's, 78

  Italian cuisine, 79

  James Beard Cooking School, 202

  James Beard's American Cookery (Beard), 204

  Jamison, Bill and Cheryl Alters, 205

  Janson, Charles, 55

  Jefferson, Thomas, 49, 64, 107, 124

  Jersey Market, 45, 46, 52

  Joy of Cooking, The (Rombauer), 204

  jumbles, 4, 5, 170–172, 221

  Kennedy, Diana, 205–206

  Kennedy, Mrs. William Henry, 28

  ketchup, 144

  Kidder, Edward, 94–95

  Kimball, Christopher, 190, 199

  Kisses, 5, 152, 155, 161

  Kitchener, William, 144

  Krimmel, John Lewis, 65, 82

  Ladies' New Book of Cookery, The (Hale), 162

  Lady's Receipt-Book, The (Leslie), 36, 141, 162

  land-grant universities, 180–181

  Langolis, Madame, 97

  Lea, Elizabeth Ellicott, 27, 100

  leavenings, 35–36, 133, 165–169

  Leibell, Abigail Coane, 8

  Lemon Custard, 224

  lemon meringue pie, 158–159, 163–164

  Lemon Pudding, 225

  lemon puddings, 4, 84, 85, 89, 98, 116, 152, 157–158, 225

  lemons

  as flavoring, 37–38, 158–159

  import of, 163

  Lemon Custard, 224

  Lemon Pudding, 225

  Mrs. Goodfellow's Lemon Pudding, 225

  Two Lemon Puddings, 225

  Leslie, Ann, 125, 126

  Leslie, Charles, 123, 126

  Leslie, Eliza

  African American cuisine and, 145–146

  American cuisine and, 132–133

  on apees, 172

  audience of, 134–136

  background of, 33–34, 123–126

  Beard and, 204

  on behavior, 146–147

  boardinghouse and, 69

  books by, 93–94

  clarity of, 136–137

  on confections, 96

  cookbooks and, 106, 126–129, 131–132, 133–136

  fiction of, 128

  French cuisine and, 65, 137–139, 141–142

  on Goodfellow, 110–111, 130

  imported ingredients and, 143–144

  Indian cuisine and, 145

  on leavenings, 35–36, 165–166

  measurements and, 213

  meringue and, 159–162

  note taking and, 112, 121–122

  recipe clarity and, 196

  on refrigeration, 56

  reputation of, 148–149

  terrapins and, 74–75

  travels of, 129

  on yeast, 168

  Leslie, Lydia Baker, 69, 123, 125

  Leslie, Martha, 126

  Leslie, Robert, 123–125

  Leslie, Thomas Jefferson, 126, 128–129

  Levick, Elizabeth W., 104–106

  Lincoln, Abraham, 135–136, 163

  Lincoln, Mary Johnson Bailey, 191–193, 194, 197, 199

  Lincoln, Mary Todd, 135–136

  liquor, 186

  Little House Cookbook, The (Walker), 135

  living/working arrangements, 17

  London Coffee House, 71

  Longone, Jan, 108, 138, 143

  Lowenstein, Eleanor, 127

  Lucas,
Dione, 202

  Mackie, Charles L., 7, 136

  Madeira wine, 49

  mangoes, preserved, 219

  Mansion House Hotel, 76–77, 114

  Margarette, Mary, 23

  markets

  comparisons of, 53–54

  description of, 45–48, 51–54

  development of, 49–50

  Goodfellow at, 41–42

  preparations for, 50–51

  proximity to, 12

  rules for, 50–51

  Markoe, Mrs. John, 70

  Marshall, Elizabeth, 96

  Massachusetts Institute of Technology, 181–182

  Mastering the Art of French Cooking (Child), 202

  Masters of American Cookery (Fussell), 205

  matchmaking, 85, 115, 156–157

  Maynard, Ida, 194

  Mease, James, 124

  measurements, guide for, 213

  meats

  chicken, 88–89, 117–118, 153–154, 218

  Mince Meat, 226

  ragouts and, 141

  stewed veal, 218–219

  terrapins, 73–75, 219

  White Fricassee Chickens, 218

  see also butcher

  Memories of Philadelphia in the Nineteenth Century (Garrett), 62

  Merchant's Coffee House and Place of Exchange, 72

  meringue, 152, 158–162

  Michaux, André, 15

  Millers, John William, 58

  Mince Meat, 226

  mise en place, 87

  Miss Farmer's School of Cookery, 198

  Miss Leslie's Behavior Book (Leslie), 146–147

  Miss Leslie's Complete Cookery (Leslie), 134

  Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book (Leslie), 111, 130, 131

  Miss Parloa's Kitchen Companion (Parloa), 191

  Miss Parloa's New Cook Book and Marketing Guide (Parloa), 191

  Modern Cook, The (Francatelli), 139

  Moffit, Robert, 22

  Monroe, James, 172

  Moore, Thomas, 55

  Moravian Seminary, 97

  Morrill Act, 180

  Mrs. Goodfellow's Cookery as It Should Be, 35, 106, 165

  Mrs. Goodfellow's Lemon Pudding, 225

  Mrs. Goodfellow's Queen Cake, 230–231

  Mrs. Lincoln's Boston Cook Book (Lincoln), 191, 197

  Mrs. Putnam's Receipt Book, 162

  napkins, 119–120

  Neal, Bill, 163

  New Art of Cookery (Briggs), 108

  New Century Club, 184–185

  New Century Cooking School, 184–187

  New Haven Restaurant Institute, 201

  New Receipts for Cooking (Leslie), 143, 146

  New System of Domestic Cookery, A (Rundell), 107–108, 169–170

  New York Cooking Academy, 140, 177–179

  New York Cooking School, 183

  Newport, Mary, 97

  Nineteenth-Century American Fiction Writers (Beshero-Bondar), 127–128

  omelette soufflé, 141–142

  Onions, Ragou of, 140, 218

 

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