Some RA colleagues felt that Brody did not receive as much credit as he deserved for the development of the Four Seasons and RA's other famous eateries, but in fact his down-to-earth management style was the perfect complement to the flamboyant and creative Baum. Whatever the truth of the story, there was little debate about the influence of the Four Seasons in the restaurant industry – and the restaurant's Grill Room that epitomized New York's "power lunch."
In the 1960s, at the peak of its reputation, RA went public, although there were some bumps in the road ahead. Brody divorced his wife in 1963, after which his father-in-law ejected him from the company. Joe Baum took over as president, and the company continued to prosper – taking over the dining at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, opening two restaurants at the 1964 World’s Fair, and launching Zum Zum – a chain of sausage shops. In 1965 RA operated 130 restaurants and foodservice operations around the world, and the value of its stock topped out at $47 per share.
But all good things run their course, and Baum’s disregard for overhead costs created thin profit margins. By 1970, RA stock dipped below $2 per share. At that point RA merged with Waldorf Systems, a company that ran a chain of lunch rooms, but their style did not suit Baum, and he declined to continue, preferring to go off on his own.
Baum teamed up with Arthur Emil, and continued to develop restaurants, including 22 operations at the World Trade Center, among them, the celebrated Windows on the World. His other projects included restaurants in the National Gallery of Art in Washington, DC, the Hallmark Cards Crown Center in Kansas City, and Place Bonaventure in Montréal. In 1986, he opened his own restaurant in New York City, Aurora, which remained in operation until 1991. In 1987, after a two-year, $25-million renovation backed by David Rockefeller, Baum reopened The Rainbow Room in New York's Rockefeller Center. He also redesigned Windows on the World in 1996.
In 1974, RA acquired the New Jersey steakhouse chain, Charlie Brown’s, and in 1976 RA became the official caterer for the U.S. Open Tennis championships, holding that contract for the next twenty years. In 1984 RA acquired the California-based Acapulco Mexican Restaurants chain, although the company went through a number of extreme ups-and-downs over the next fifteen years. In 1998, they were acquired by The Compass Group USA, the $2.3 billion North American division of Compass Group PLC, the world's largest contract caterer. Compass paid $87.5 million for RA and another $50 million for the Acapulco chain.
Joe Baum’s legacy includes many small, but important innovations that are taken for granted today, including servers replacing full ash-trays by cupping them with an empty one – although this practice is unnecessary today, thanks to the outlawing of smoking in dining establishments and other public buildings. Baum is also credited for making American cuisine respectable at a time when a restaurant had to be French to be considered elegant. And of course many of his restaurant creations are still mentioned to this day.
There is however, one practice that Baum introduced, which is one of the worse characteristics of table service in American restaurants and which has become thoroughly ubiquitous, from small Tex-Mex burrito shops to bistro chains to fine-dining emporiums. It begins with a food server introducing him/herself to a restaurant guest, as in “Hi, my name is ________, and I’ll be your food server tonight.” This inappropriate intrusion has opened the door to a never-ending barrage of further inquiries, including the obsequious: “Is everything okay?”
I’ll swear on a stack of Sauce Bibles that I am not a food snob in any way, shape or form, but I am emphatic about having absolutely no interest in bonding with, or otherwise interacting with a restaurant food server. This is nothing personal, but I do not need to know the name of the server, where he/she grew up, his/her birth date, nor do I wish my conversation of the moment to be repeatedly interrupted with a never-ending torrent of inquiries. I have paid my dues as a busboy, food server and barman, and I know 1- how to maintain a professional distance from my customers, and 2- how to discern visually, in five-seconds or less, exactly what is needed at any given table at any given moment. Unfortunately, Joe Baum thought otherwise, and believed that friendliness translated into professional service. In fact nothing could be further from the truth.
Only Europeans who operate restaurants in the United States understand the professional distance that is essential to skillful and proficient table service, and thus train their servers not to cross that boundary. The same applies to most restaurants throughout the civilized world, where service staff receive quality training in the proper methods of serving food and beverages to restaurant-dining clientele. In fact, in all my travels in Western Europe, never once has a food server ever come up and introduced him/herself by name, nor have any of them ever asked me what I thought of the food and service, à la “Is everything okay?” Yet food servers in America, who typically take such jobs while they figure out what they really want to do with their lives, are rarely properly trained, and typically have no idea of what is involved in professional service. All parties suffer as a result – both dining customers and the untrained servers themselves. In Europe, becoming a food server is very respectable career choice, and the training is taken very seriously. (Joe Baum passed away at his Sutton Place home on October 5, 1998 after a long battle with cancer.)
At Mrs. Barbour’s urging, I began typing up van Erp’s recipes, although due to van Erp’s lack of interest and the fact that I would soon move out to the west coast, it never came to fruition. It would have been a fabulous book and a priceless recipe collection. Of course you can lead a horse to water, but you can’t make him write his memoirs.
In 1976, Joe Baum invited van Erp to take the Executive Chef position at his soon-to-be-opened Windows on the World at the top of The World Trade Center in lower Manhattan – and it might well have been one of the great achievements in a long life of gastronomic accomplishments. But van Erp was tired, and frankly, who could blame him. He was 55 years-of-age, had lost his gall bladder, and sported an over-extended gut that demanded several shots of Dewar’s in the evening after guests had gone home. I was only 25 years of age then, but I remember thinking, “Gee, I never want to get like that.”
On July 4th 1976, the nation celebrated its Bicentennial, which included the “tall ships” event in New York City. This was a once-in-a-life time event, with sailing contingencies from fifty countries around the world – including three sailboats from Holland that had made the trans-Atlantic trip just for the celebration. I was aware that it had been 378 years since the Dutch had first visited the island of Manhattan, where in 1598 they set up a trading post, later naming the area New Amsterdam. Still, I was impressed that they were ambitious enough to sail all the way from the Netherlands for our national party.
Van Erp contacted the Dutch embassy in New York, then chartered a bus to bring the group of Dutch sailors up to the club. Our Dutch guests arrived on the afternoon of Sunday, July 4th, and it was obvious that they were positively thrilled to have been invited. In addition, the Club was nestled amidst 2400 very rural acres, and the main house was as charming it was pastoral. We stood around the swimming pool sipping beers from the keg of Heineken beer, and at 5:00 PM he put out a spectacular buffet, featuring foods that one would find on a typical July 4th American-style buffet table: Roast Prime Rib, Corn-on-the-Cob, Baked-stuffed Potatoes, Baked Beans, a large tossed green salad, Corn Bread, Apple Pie and Blueberry Crumble. It was extraordinary.
But the highlight of the entire evening took place just before our guests boarded the bus to return to New York. The entire group of Dutch visitors stood up and sang the most beautiful rendition of God Bless America I have ever heard in my entire life. And I can report that there wasn’t a dry eye in the entire place – at least not among the hosts.
One of Peter van Erp’s closest friends during this time was Luc Brondel, who had been my Chef-Instructor at the Institute in Classical Cuisine. Brondel was another of the greats of that era, and I considered my time with him an exceptional learning e
xperience. Brondel was also burned-out, mostly due to a very intense artistic persona, who never found creative satisfaction in his work as a chef. Brondel handed out a sheet of his terse poetry to his students, and it was not too difficult to hear the voice of the tortured soul of an artist in between the lines. I remember witnessing Brondel’s white-toqued head tip back during class, as he stood in front of a reach-in refrigerator. Later on, after he had stepped away, I looked into that reach-in, and found an open bottle of red wine, with a glass at the ready. Like I said, he was a tortured soul.
During my time with van Erp, we occasionally stopped at Brondel’s home in the late afternoon, where we sipped wine with him and his young wife, while commiserating about the state of gastronomy and other significant worldly matters. After a few rounds, Brondel indubitably became teary-eyed, reminiscing about the old days, and clearly exhibiting the symptoms of a frustrated artist whose creative fire had been pent up for years. And once again, I thought to myself, “Gee, I never want to get like that.”
Of course no one wants to emulate the negative qualities of their mentors. Yet how much control over these influences do we ultimately have? It is said that as hard as we try, we can never evolve very far from the imprint that our parents leave upon us, whether that imprint was given passively or proactively. I would like to think that Luc Brondel might well have been able to break away from the culinary trade and gone to art school, where he might have been able to channel his powerful creativity in a more satisfying way. But the fact is, he never did – for whatever reason – and as a result, in the end he wore out his liver, dying prematurely and more or less unmemorably.
As for Peter van Erp, ever laden with a penchant for self-destruction, he had developed the very bad habit of carrying out some of the more expensive ingredients he used in his Escoffier kitchen at the Institute – caviar, smoked salmon, cheese, truffle, and so on – and serving them at the Rod and Gun Club. Eventually someone saw that his classroom food-cost figures were not adding up, and one day a school administrator asked to see his briefcase as he departed for the day – and that was the end of his career at the CIA. I heard that he had moved down to Brooklyn, and was teaching at a Community College there. I attempted to track him down, but I was unsuccessful, unfortunately, and never crossed paths with him again.
There’s little justice in the world of man, as rock-and-roller Billy Joel sang in 1977, “Only the good die young…” Yet the culinary trade and the food service industry marches ever onward, forever demanding dedicated culinarians to carry the mantle onward. Of course styles have changed radically since the early 1970s when I completed my training – but has the quality of chefs diminished as well? Perhaps, though from my experience, I would say that the proportion of culinary students who possess the character and temperament required for success in the world of both commercial and private kitchens is roughly the same as it has always been. And that proportion has always been very minimal. The chef’s life is simply not a place for the timid, the tentative or the faint of heart.
In any case, among all the chefs I have every worked with, few will ever match the gastronomic experience or culinary accomplishments of Peter van Erp and Luc Brondel. And though they are both gone now, their legacies remain alive among a handful of dedicated apprentices – some of whom have attained success, and others who have moved on to less stressful careers. It is just the way it is.
As they say in French, c’est la vie, c’est la guerre.
Chapter 10
Into the Trenches in Baghdad-by-the-Bay
San Francisco is a magical hamlet, and my own arrival in that enchanting town could not have been more auspicious – late on the morning of October 31st, known among Christians as All Saint’s Day, among closet thespians as Halloween, and among pagans as the Festival of Samhain (“summer’s end”). I prefer the later version, owing to the fact that I have pagan tendencies, quite possibly linked to a past life in a 9 th-century Euro-pagan realm. This I deem a positive quality, contrary to popular negative connotations attached to Paganism, for in fact ancient pagan tribes were deeply spiritual and their cultures based on a very natural connection with the physical world.
San Francisco also appeals to those of a hedonistic bent, which all chefs have in some degree. As ancient Greek philosopher Democritus (460-370 BC) put it, “contentment and cheerfulness are the supreme goals of life.”
In any case, it hardly mattered what one called it, because Halloween is the most appropriate holiday for San Francisco – for there is no wilder, unfettered, and passionate pagan congregation in all of North America – with the sole exception of the Big Easy – New Orleans – but who wants to deal with all that heat and humidity!? As Rudyard Kipling once wrote, “San Francisco is a mad city – inhabited for the most part by perfectly insane people.”
I drove directly to my sister’s apartment home, from which she took me out for a walk in Land’s End – a stunningly gorgeous park overlooking the Pacific Ocean, and the perfect spot for an introduction to the city.
As for work, San Francisco in 1976 was a veritable chef’s plum – ripe, succulent and just waiting to be plucked. In other words, a young budding chef such as I, full of the proverbial piss and vinegar, as well as a culinary fire, was in major demand and I could virtually pick the place I chose to work.
My first stop was the Chef’s Professional Agency, run by the significantly eccentric Maxine Lockley. Maxine held court in her office, Monday through Friday, where chefs and cooks of all shapes and sizes would congregate while Maxine flirted, preened, worked the phone, and sent people off on various assignments. It seems extraordinary that the agency is still in operation today, run by the late Maxine’s equally eccentric daughter, Jo-Lynne “the apple-do th-not-fall-far-from-the-tree” Lockley. Jo Lynne had been married with children in Zurich, Switzerland, when she was suddenly overwhelmed by an attack of MLCS – Mid-Life Crisis Syndrome. She packed her bags, bid her family and the Euro-life goodbye, and flew back to her hometown to take over mom’s business.
Maxine’s husband was the very debonair, very charming John Lockley (1913-2009), a successful tax attorney and arbitrator, whom I always wondered why he had married such a bony, odd-ball of a woman. But I am hardly a fellow to point a finger at another man’s family – for I knew him to be a very classy gentleman, and thus had little reason to criticize his lifestyle.
On top of John Lockley’s inimitable charm, was a terrifying tale of Wild West drama that nearly cost the man his life. In 1960, the husband of a client in a domestic abuse case became enraged, and fired a handgun that hit Lockley in the left side of his neck, ripping open his jugular vein.
John Lockley told me this story himself, over dinner one evening at the World Trade Club, located in the Ferry Building down at the base of Market Street in downtown San Francisco, and frankly I was stunned at the details. Of course someone came to his aid, stopped the bleeding without strangling him, and rushed him to the hospital. There a plastic tube was inserted into the vein, his neck was sewn up, and miraculously, he recovered from the injury.
In retrospect, this story is quite essential in understanding the character – or lack thereof – of San Francisco, and in fact, it would only be two years later, that an incident in San Francisco confirmed that very character of a city that remained steeped in a wild-west, untamed, and faux-civilized persona.
Meanwhile, back at the court of Maxine – the Gastronomic High Priestess would eventually send each chef off on an appointment, and some of these appointments yielded excellent employment, others did not. She asked me if I wanted to work in Los Angeles, and at the time, I was open to the possibility. She phoned Ken Hansen, owner of the the-notable restaurant Scandia – and I flew down the next day for an interview.
After spending two hours in the kitchen observing and chatting up the kitchen staff, Hansen and the chef brought me out to the dining room for lunch, where they interviewed me. I had a feeling the chef was a screamer – a chef capable of verbal hos
tility if things did not go his way. Hansen was gracious, and offered me a salary advance if I needed the funds to get settled in the area. I liked the overall look of things, and accepted their offer, promising to drive down from San Francisco within the week. I went outside to head back to the airport.
When I had arrived earlier that morning, the sun was shining, and there was dew on the grass, and the air smelled of the Pacific ocean, and frankly it seemed to be the perfect seaside city. But at 2:00 PM in the afternoon, as I waited for my ride to the airport, there was a smoky haze in the air, and I waved my hand before my face as if to wave the haze away. What I was dealing with was the smog that L.A. of the late 20 th-century was famous for – if fame is the right word for an enormous cloud of toxic air that enveloped the city most of the day and night. And I thought to myself, “I am going to bicycle around in this shit? It’s everywhere!”
Los Angeles turned out to be one of the strangest places I have ever been to, and I soon realized that there was little chance I would ever be able to survive life in a city which was shrouded in an enormous cloud made up of toxic hydrocarbons and whatever else was spewed out by the endless sea of automobiles. And this was in a city that in the early – 20th-century, had one of the finest light-rail transportation systems in the civilized world - later destroyed by General Motors, so they could sell their diesel-powered busses. So I flew home, agonized for two days, then phoned Hansen and apologized for my change of mind.
I went back to Maxine, who sent me to North Beach, where three characters were preparing to open Powell’s, a new restaurant in a former Mexican cantina whose owner had been carted away for selling cocaine. The trio was made up of Jim Hurwitz, disbarred attorney; Vince Leone, construction worker for the city; and Seamus Coyle, legendary bartender and spinner of tall tales.
Have Blade Will Travel: The adventures of a traveling chef Page 16