Chop Suey : A Cultural History of Chinese Food in the United States

Home > Cook books > Chop Suey : A Cultural History of Chinese Food in the United States > Page 27
Chop Suey : A Cultural History of Chinese Food in the United States Page 27

by Coe, Andrew


  Rider, Fremont. Rider’s New York City and Vicinity. New York: Holt, 1916.

  Roberts, Edmund. Embassy to the Eastern Courts of Cochin-China, Siam, and Muscat. New York: Harper, 1837.

  Ross, George. Tips on Tables. New York: Covici, Friede, 1934.

  Ruschenberger, W. S. W. Narrative of a Voyage Round the World. 2 vols. Folkestone, England: Dawsons, 1970.

  Sakamoto, Nobuko. The People’s Republic of China Cookbook. New York: Random House, 1977.

  Scheffaner, Herman. “The Old Chinese Quarter.” Living Age, August 10, 1907, 359–66.

  “Seitz in Chinatown.” Frank Leslie’s Popular Monthly, May 1893, 612–8.

  The Sentinel Jewish Cook Book. 4th ed. Chicago: Sentinel, 1936.

  Serventi, Silvano, and Françoise Sabban. Pasta: The Story of a Universal Food. New York: Columbia University Press, 2002.

  Shaw, Samuel, and Josiah Quincy. The Journals of Major Samuel Shaw. Boston: Wm. Crosby and H. Nichols, 1847.

  Shaw, William. Golden Dreams and Waking Realities. London: Smith, Elder, 1851.

  Sia, Mary Li. Chinese Chopsticks: A Manual of Chinese Cookery and Guide to Peiping Restaurants. Beijing: Peiping Chronicle, 1935.

  Simoons, Frederick J. Food in China: A Cultural and Historical Inquiry. Boca Raton, Fla.: CRC Press, 1991.

  Singleton, Esther, ed. China, as Described by Great Writers. New York: Dodd, Mead, 1912.

  Smith, Richard J. Chinese Maps. Hong Kong: Oxford University Press, 1996.

  Smyth, Albert H. Bayard Taylor. Boston: Houghton, Mifflin, 1896.

  Solomon, Richard H. A Revolution Is Not a Dinner Party. New York: Anchor Press, 1975.

  Soulé, Frank. The Annals of San Francisco. San Francisco: D. Appleton, 1855.

  Spence, Jonathan D. The Search for Modern China. New York: Norton, 1990.

  Spier, Robert F. G. “Food Habits of Nineteenth-century California Chinese.” California Historical Society Quarterly, March 1958, 79–84.

  ———. “Food Habits of Nineteenth-century California Chinese (Concluded).” California Historical Society Quarterly, June 1958, 129–36.

  Spiller, Harley. “Late Night in the Lion’s Den: Chinese Restaurant-nightclubs in 1940s San Francisco.” Gastronomica, 4, no. 4 (fall 2004): 94–101.

  Starr, Kevin. Americans and the California Dream, 1850–1915. New York: Oxford University Press, 1973.

  Strassberg, Richard E., ed. A Chinese Bestiary. Berkeley: University of California Press, 2002.

  Sung, Betty Lee. Mountain of Gold. New York: Macmillan, 1967.

  Swisher, Earl. China’s Management of the American Barbarians. New Haven, Conn.: Far Eastern, 1953.

  Takaki, Ronald. Strangers from a Different Shore. Boston: Little, Brown, 1989.

  Taylor, Bayard. Eldorado. New York: Putnam: 1850.

  ———. A Visit to India, China, and Japan, in the Year 1853. New York: Putnam, 1855.

  Taylor, Benjamin F. Between the Gates. Chicago: S. C. Griggs, 1878.

  Taylor, Charles. Five Years in China. New York: Derby and Jackson, 1860.

  Tchen, John Kuo Wei. New York before Chinatown. Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press, 1999.

  Tiffany, Osmond, Jr. The Canton Chinese. Boston: James Munroe, 1849.

  Tong, Michael. The Shun Lee Cookbook. New York: Morrow, 2007.

  Trader Vic’s Book of Food and Drink. Garden City, N.Y.: Doubleday, 1946.

  Trewartha, Glenn T. “Field Observations on the Canton Delta of South China.” Economic Geography 15, no. 1 (January 1939): 1–10.

  “The Truth about Chow Mein.” New Yorker, May 6, 1972, 32–3.

  Tuthill, Franklin. The History of California. San Francisco: H. H. Bancroft, 1866.

  Twain, Mark. Roughing It. New York: Harper, 1913.

  Volkwein, Ann. Chinatown New York. New York: Collins Design, 2007.

  Waley, Arthur. Yuan Mei. London: Allen and Unwin, 1956.

  Walker, Anne C. China Calls. Lanham, Md.: Madison Books, 1992.

  “Walks about the City of Canton.” Chinese Repository, May 1835, 43.

  Whymper, Frederick. Travel and Adventure in the Territory of Alaska. London: J. Murray, 1868.

  Wilkinson, Endymion. Chinese History: A Manual. Cambridge, Mass.: Harvard University Press, 2000.

  William Speer. An Humble Plea. San Francisco: Office of the Oriental, 1856.

  Williams, Frederick Wells. The Life and Letters of Samuel Wells Williams. New York: Putnam, 1889.

  Williams, Samuel Wells. The Middle Kingdom. 2 vols. New York: John Wiley, 1849.

  Wilson, Richard, ed. The President’s Trip to China. New York: Bantam Books, 1972.

  Wimsatt, Genevieve. A Griffin in China. New York: Funk and Wagnalls, 1927.

  Wines, E. C. A Peep at China, in Mr. Dunn’s Chinese Collection. Philadelphia: Nathan Dunn, 1839.

  Wong Ching Foo. “Chinese Cooking.” Boston Globe, July 19, 1885, 9.

  ———. “Chinese Cooking.” Brooklyn Eagle, July 6, 1884, 4.

  ———. “The Chinese in New York.” Cosmopolitan, June 1888, 297.

  Wood, W. W. Sketches of China. Philadelphia: Carey and Lee, 1830.

  Wouk, Herman. Marjorie Morningstar. Garden City, N.Y.: Doubleday, 1955, 58.

  Wright, G. N. China, in a Series of Views. London: Fisher, 1848.

  Wu Tingfang. America, through the Spectacles of an Oriental Diplomat. New York: Frederick A. Stokes, 1914.

  Yan-kit So. Classic Food of China. London: Macmillan, 1992.

  The Yellow Emperor’s Classic of Internal Medicine. Trans. Ilza Veith. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1972.

  Yuan Jing and Rowen K. Flad. “Pig Domestication in Ancient China.” Antiquity 76, no. 293 (September 2002): 724–33.

  Yutang, Lin. My Country and My People. New York: Reynal and Hitchcock, 1935.

  Zito, Angela. Of Body and Brush. Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1997.

  INDEX

  Adams, John Quincy, 40

  Africa, 3, 19, 20

  African Americans, 114, 169, 173, 176, 189, 196

  agriculture:

  Chinese American, 121–22, 121–23, 135, 137, 138, 151, 170, 171, 207

  Chinese history of, 67–73, 78–79, 100–102

  Ah Ling, 151

  Ah Wah, 151

  alcohol:

  in American Chinese restaurants, 189, 191, 215, 216

  in Chinese culinary tradition, 75, 76, 91, 94

  and Prohibition, 189

  in western culinary tradition, 2, 5, 12, 14, 26, 45–46

  See also liquors; rice wine; wines

  Allium genus, 79–80

  Altar of Heaven, 77

  Alton (IL) Evening Telegraph, 194, 195

  American history. See United States history

  American Mutoscope and Biograph Company, 195

  American Revolution, 4, 10–11, 22, 24

  Americans in China:

  early diplomats, 38–52

  missionaries, 31–35, 53, 55, 59–63, 116, 117

  Nixon and Kissinger, 224–39

  tourists attending Olympics, 248–50

  writings by, 33–35, 56–59, 62–63

  See also American traders in China

  American tastes:

  Chinese opinion of, 153–54

  lack of adventurousness in, 14, 118, 137, 139, 249–50, 251

  prejudice as influence on, 35, 52, 55, 114–15, 126–27, 133, 134, 148, 156

  See also Chinese food in America; chop suey

  American traders in China:

  first visits, 1–16, 25–31, 36, 250

  friendships with Europeans, 4, 9, 10–13, 11, 53

  isolation of, 7–8, 13, 26, 28–29, 34, 35, 53–55

  languages used by, 9–10, 29

  trade goods, 1–2, 15, 25–28, 36

  See also British traders; Chinese trade

  American West:

  Chinese settlement of, 134–40

  frontier diet in, 118, 137, 138, 139

  gold rush, 102, 107–10, 112
–14, 115, 134

  Mark Twain’s visit, 136

  racism in, 113–17, 126, 127, 139–43, 174–75

  See also San Francisco

  Amoy, 53

  Annals of San Francisco, 114

  apricots, 82

  aquaculture. See fishing

  Aramark, 250

  archaeological sites:

  ancient Chinese, 71, 72, 76, 81, 84, 86, 88, 89

  nineteenth century mining camp, 136–37

  Armstrong, Louis, 196

  Arthur, Chester A., 142

  arts and entertainment:

  Chinese culture in, 168, 187–88, 191, 195–98, 200–204, 214

  racism in, 139–40, 196–97

  Atlanta, Ga., 189

  Ayres, Lew, 195, 196

  AZ (restaurant), 248

  azuki beans, 80

  bamboo shoots, 63, 67, 80, 99, 160, 192, 239

  bamboo steamers, 84

  bananas, 6, 101

  banquet fare:

  Cantonese, 209–10

  gradations in, 93

  banquets:

  in Chinese American restaurants, 104–7, 124–26, 129–31, 206, 209–10, 220, 240–41

  in Chinese culinary tradition, 81–82, 92–94, 218

  etiquette of, 46, 47–48, 92–93, 235, 238

  in western culinary tradition, 44–46, 54

  for western visitors to China, 13–14, 29–31, 33–34, 47–49, 224–25, 237–39

  baozi (stuffed bread), 89

  Beach, Donn, 215

  bean curd (tofu), 67, 80, 210

  bean paste, 86

  beans:

  azuki (red), 80

  black, 100

  cultivation of, 101

  fermentation of, 86, 100

  mung, 91

  bean sprouts, 160, 192

  bear’s paws, 93

  bêche-de-mer,, 27

  See also sea cucumbers

  Bechet, Sidney, 196

  beef:

  in Chinese cuisine, 80, 251

  in western shipboard diet, 2, 3

  beer, 45–46

  Beijing (Peking):

  Boxer Rebellion, 165–66

  cuisine of, 79, 99, 221

  imperial government in, 17, 18, 47, 166

  Opium War, 36

  Summer Olympics (2008), 248–49

  Bergeron, Victor, 216

  beverages, in Chinese cuisine, 91

  See also rice wine; tea

  Biglar, John, 114–15

  bing (kneaded flour foods), 88–91

  See also breads; dumplings; noodles

  birds’ nests:

  as Chinese delicacy, 23, 28, 48, 50–51, 58, 61, 98

  diners’ anecdotes, 33, 48, 105, 136

  flavor of, 28

  as trade good, 28, 93–94

  bird’s nest soup, 30, 48, 220

  Bits of Old China (Hunter), 44–46

  black beans, 100

  Black Hills Gold Rush, 139

  Blue Ginger, 248

  Bohemians, 156–59, 160, 169, 170, 186

  The Book of Rites (Confucius), 73

  Bossé, Sara Eaton, 186

  Boston, 3, 22, 50, 169–70, 248

  Boston Daily Globe, 169–70, 177

  Boston tea party, 22

  Bowles, Samuel, 103, 104, 105, 106–7

  “A Bowl of Chop Suey and You-ey,” 196–97

  Boxer Rebellion, 165–66

  Brassica genus, 79, 80

  breads:

  flatbread, 221

  steamed, 88, 89, 95, 99, 130

  in western shipboard diet, 2

  Bridgman, Elijah Coleman:

  as missionary to China, 31–32, 60

  writings about China, 33, 34–35, 41, 43, 47

  Britain:

  Opium War, 36–37, 39, 40, 53

  Treaty of Nanking, 37, 39

  See also Western culinary traditions

  British East India Company, 8–9, 12–13, 22

  British traders:

  commercial dominance of, 8–9, 12, 22, 24–25, 36, 41, 53

  Guangzhou factory of, 9, 12–13

  opium smuggling by, 36, 53

  relationship with Americans, 10–13, 53

  relationship with Chinese, 8–9, 21, 22, 35–36, 41, 53–55

  bronze cookware, 73–75, 75

  Brooklyn Eagle, 153, 164

  Bross, William, 103, 106

  Buddhism, 19, 153

  Buddhist monks, culinary advances by, 89–90, 92

  cabbages:

  Chinese, 71, 79, 99, 122, 134

  as ships’ staple, 2

  Caen, Herb, 221

  cai, 79–80

  See also fan-cai dichotomy

  Calcutta, 9

  Calcutta lamb, 216

  California:

  in 1850s, 112, 113–14

  as Gold Mountain, 102, 109

  gold rush, 102, 107–10, 112–14, 115, 134

  See also American West; San Francisco

  Canton. See Guangzhou

  Cantonese cuisine:

  in American restaurants, 123–24, 209–10, 216, 218–19

  origins of, 99–102

  See also dim sum

  Cantonese language, 43

  “chop suey” from, 160

  and pidgin Chinese, 10

  teaching to barbarians, 29

  where spoken, 99, 101

  carp, 81

  casseroles, 100

  cassia, 85, 134

  cats:

  in Chinese cuisine, 23, 24, 231

  as stereotyped Chinese food, 58–59, 151–53

  in street markets, 23–24, 32

  cattle, 80

  See also beef

  Central Pacific Railroad, 137

  cha (tea), 92

  See also tea

  champagne, 5

  Chan, Charlie, 205

  Chang, Cecilia, 221

  Chao, Buwei Yang, 217–19

  Chaozhou dishes, 244

  Chapin, Dwight, 230–34

  char siu bau (steamed bread), 130

  cheeses:

  in Chinese cuisine, 46, 86

  in western cuisine, 44, 45

  See also dairy products

  chefs, Chinese:

  after Communist takeover, 227

  as culinary artists, 65–66, 241

  immigration laws affecting, 214, 216, 223

  rulebooks for imperial, 92–93

  of Shang Dynasty, 74–75, 85–86

  for Yuan Mei, 65–66

  Chen Zuguan, 13–14

  cherry bounce, 46

  Chiang Kai-shek, 228, 242

  Chicago, 171, 172, 173, 198, 216, 221

  Chicago Inter-Ocean, 185

  Chicago Tribune:

  food stories, 105, 106, 172, 185, 241

  news stories, 171, 183, 184

  chicken dishes:

  beggar’s, 221

  “General Tso’s Chicken,” 241–43, 251

  Kung Pao, 251

  chickens:

  domestication of, 81

  on sailing vessels, 2

  chili peppers, 83, 85

  The China (restaurant), 175

  China:

  antiquity of, 16

  climate, 70

  geography, 67–70

  lexical origins of name, 57–58

  as “Middle Kingdom,” 16–19, 29, 58

  natural diversity in, 70–71, 81

  See also Chinese cuisine; Chinese history

  China Clipper (restaurant), 209–10

  The China Mission (Dean), 61–62

  China Proper, 17, 68, 99–100

  China root, 134

  China Sea, 69

  Chinatowns:

  during anti-Chinese movement, 142

  during 1930s and 1940s, 208

  revitalization of, 243–44

  See also New York City Chinatown; San Francisco Chinatown

  Chinese-American (newspaper), 153

  Chinese Americans:

  in American West, 112
–14, 117, 134–43

  as cooks and chefs, 133–34, 135, 139, 149

  culinary traditions maintained by, 117–19, 129, 134–35, 137–38, 139, 151

  on East coast, 169–71

  farming by, 121–23, 135, 137, 138, 151, 170, 171, 207

  fishing by, 119–20, 121

  in Hawaii, 206–7

  as laundrymen, 107, 126, 135, 138, 159, 169, 171, 207

  marginalization of, 205–6

  as merchants, 104, 112, 113, 118–19, 135, 137–38, 149, 151, 171, 206, 207

  in Midwest, 171–72

  as miners, 108–9, 112–13, 135

  in New York. See New York City

  as peddlers, 107, 120–21, 123, 129, 149

  racism toward. See racism

  as railroad laborers, 137–39

  as restaurateurs. See Chinese restaurants in America

  as sailors, 148, 149

  in San Francisco. See San Francisco

  as servants, 133, 135, 171

  See also Chinese food in America; Chinese restaurants in America

 

‹ Prev