Equally good care is taken with the drinks menu; an excellent selection of teas and coffees, wines and cocktails are served.
Cantina San JuanARGENTINE$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4300-9344; www.facebook.com/CafeSanJuanrestaurant/; Chile 474; mains AR$280-370; h12:30-6pm & 8pm-midnight Tue-Sun; bLínea C Independencia)
At this casual joint, chef Leandro Cristóbal sticks with simple dishes such as antipasto, mini pizzas, fresh pastas and a few meat and fish mains – but it's all excellent. Afterwards, try the in-house vermouth from the 'vermuteria' bar.
Comedor NikkaiJAPANESE$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4300-5848; Av Independencia 732; mains AR$170-300; hnoon-3pm & 7:30-11pm Mon-Thu, noon-3pm & 8pm-midnight Fri, 8pm-midnight Sat; bLínea C Independencia)
Housed in the Asociación Japonesa building, this restaurant has some of BA’s most authentic Japanese food, and the locals know it – come early if you don’t want to wait. All your favorites are here, including tempura, teriyaki, ramen or udon noodles and – of course – lots of sushi and sashimi choices. Sake is available too.
6Drinking & Nightlife
New bars continue to pop up with regularity in San Telmo, where cocktail bars and craft-beer pubs sit side by side with historic cafes that have hardly changed over the years. Here older gentlemen still show up for their morning coffee and medialunas, but there’s space for everyone.
oBar Plaza DorregoCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4361-0141; Defensa 1098; h8am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 3:30am Fri & Sat; g29, 24, 33)
You can’t beat the atmosphere at this traditional joint; sip your submarino (hot milk with chocolate) by a picturesque window and watch the world pass by, or grab an outdoor table next to the busy plaza. Meanwhile, traditionally suited waiters, piped-in tango music, antique bottles and scribbled graffiti on walls and counters might take you back in time.
DoppelgängerCOCKTAIL BAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4300-0201; www.doppelganger.com.ar; Av Juan de Garay 500; h7pm-2am Tue-Thu, to 4am Fri, 8pm-4am Sat; g29, 24)
At this cool, emerald-hued corner bar you can count on being served a perfectly mixed martini. That’s because Doppelgänger specializes in vermouth cocktails. The lengthy menu is full of creative concoctions: start with the journalist, a martini with a bitter orange twist, or channel Don Draper and go for the bar’s best seller – an Old Fashioned.
On TapCRAFT BEER
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.ontap.com.ar; Av Caseros 482; h5pm-midnight Sun, Tue & Wed, to 1am Thu-Sat; g29)
Sample some of the 20 locally brewed craft beers at the San Telmo branch of On Tap, located on elegant Av Caseros.
Coffee TownCOFFEE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4361-0019; http://coffeetowncompany.com; Bolívar 976, inside Mercado de San Telmo; h8am-8pm; bLínea C Independencia)
For some of BA’s best coffee, drop by this casual kiosk or larger coffee shop inside the Mercado de San Telmo (enter via Carlos Calvo). Experienced baristas serve up organic, fair-trade coffee derived from beans from all over the world – Colombia, Kenya, Sumatra and Yemen. A few pastries help the java go down.
Bar BritánicoCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4361-2107; Av Brasil 399; h24hr Tue-Sun, 8am-midnight Mon; g29, 24, 33)
A classic corner cafe on the edge of Parque Lezama, Bar Británico has an evocative old wooden interior and big glass windows that open to the street. Drop in for a café cortado (small espresso with milk) in the morning or a beer on a sunny afternoon.
Pride CafeCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4300-6435; Balcarce 869; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 11am-8pm Sat, 9am-8pm Sun; W; g29, 24, 33)
This small, gay-friendly cafe is especially busy on Sunday during San Telmo’s antiques fair, when crowds descend on the homemade pastries (the chocolate brownie has a following), healthy snacks and flavored coffees. It's the kind of place where you'll get chatting to the other customers and lose track of time.
GibraltarPUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4362-5310; www.thegibraltarbar.com; Perú 895; hnoon-4am; g29, 24, 33)
One of BA’s classic pubs, the Gibraltar has a cozy atmosphere and good bar counter for those traveling alone. For a little friendly competition, head to the pool table in the back. There are sports on TV, and happy hour runs from noon to 8pm every day.
Bar SeddónBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4342-3700; Defensa 695; h8am-4am; g29, 24, 33)
This long-running corner bar-restaurant, outfitted with black-and-white tiles and rustic wood tables, is housed in an old restored pharmacy. Drop in for an icy chopp (mug of draft beer) or a late-night glass of red – there are also sandwiches, pizzas and daily specials if you're hungry.
Club MuseumCLUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4781-7061; www.museumclub.com.ar; Perú 535; h1am-5am Fri & Sat; g29, 24)
This cavernous disco is housed in a beautiful old factory designed by Eiffel – the same man behind the famous Parisian landmark. It’s a huge space with multiple balconies and a great sound system pumping out '80s and '90s pop music and Latin tunes. Note that Club Museum has a reputation for being a bit of a meat market.
3Entertainment
oMaldita MilongaTANGO
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-15-2189-7747; www.elafronte.com.ar; Perú 571, Buenos Ayres Club; AR$140; hclass 9pm, milonga 10:30pm Wed & Sun; bLínea E Belgrano)
Maldita Milonga, held on Wednesdays and Sundays at Buenos Ayres Club, is a well-run and popular event, and one of the best places to see tango being danced by real couples. The highlight of the night is when the dynamic orchestra El Afronte plays at 11pm; at midnight there's a professional dance demonstration.
Tango QueerTANGO
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-15-3252-6894; www.tangoqueer.com; Perú 571, Buenos Ayres Club; AR$100; hclass 8:30pm, milonga 10pm-2am Tue; bLínea E Belgrano)
On Tuesday nights anyone can dance with anyone, leading or following as they choose, at this excellent gay tango class and milonga.
Centro Cultural Torquato TassoLIVE MUSIC
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4307-6506; www.torquatotasso.com.ar; Defensa 1575; g29, 168, 24)
One of BA’s best-loved live-music venues, with top-name tango music performances – keep an eye out for Rodolfo Mederos Trio and La Chicana. Attracts bands that mix genres, such as fusing tango or folklórico (folk music) with rock.
La VentanaTANGO
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4334-1314; www.laventanaweb.com; Balcarce 431; show from US$70, show & dinner from US$120; bLínea E Belgrano)
This long-running basement venue is located in an old converted building with rustic brick walls in San Telmo. The tango show includes a folkloric segment with Andean musicians and a display of boleadores (gaucho hunting weapons). There’s also a patriotic tribute to Evita, and the dinner offers a wide variety of tasty main dishes – unusual for tango shows.
El Viejo AlmacénTANGO
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4307-7388; www.viejoalmacen.com; Balcarce 799; show from US$90, show & dinner from US$140; g29, 24, 111)
One of BA's longest-running shows (since 1969), this venue is a charming old building from the 1800s. Dinner is served at a multistory restaurant in the main building, then everyone heads across the street to the small theater with an intimate stage. The show starts with a quick movie about the tango show’s history, then moves on to the highly athletic dancers with plenty of glitz.
La Scala de San TelmoCLASSICAL MUSIC
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4362-1187; www.lascala.org.ar; Pasaje Guiffra 371; g29)
This small San Telmo venue, located in a refurbished colonial building, puts on classical and contemporary concerts that highlight piano, tango, musical comedies and other musical-related shows and workshops. Affordable or free admission.
La TrastiendaLIVE MUSIC
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-5254-9100; www.latrastienda.com; Balcarce 460; bLínea E Belgrano)
This large, atmospheric theater in San Telmo welcomes over 700, features a well-stocked b
ar, and showcases national and international live-music acts almost nightly. Check the website for the latest line-up.
7Shopping
San Telmo has traditionally been Buenos Aires’ antiques neighborhood. In recent years, however, the neighborhood has attracted other kinds of stores. Fashion boutiques and housewares shops have appeared, changing the general feel on the streets. Locals fear that their beloved neighborhood might become another Palermo, but even with rising real-estate prices, San Telmo is not likely to lose its gritty authenticity or charm.
L’AgoHOMEWARES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4362-4702; www.lagosantelmo.com; Defensa 970; h11am-8pm; g29)
Kitschy-cool home decor – from fluorescent-hued mate sets and fun pillows to Frida Kahlo kitchen magnets, eclectic lighting, recycled Elvis wallets and Marilyn Monroe handbags – can be found at cute-as-a-button L’Ago.
Punto SurCLOTHING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4300-9320; www.feriapuntosur.com.ar; Defensa 1135; h11am-7pm; g29)
This is a great clothing store highlighting the works of nearly 70 Argentine designers. Creativity is rampant and it’s a fun walk-through for one-of-a-kind threads including interesting knitwear, colorful skirts, printed T-shirts, jewelry and accessories, cool handbags and even kids’ stuff.
SignosJEWELRY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-15-5949-9193; www.signosac.blogspot.com.ar; Carlos Calvo 428; h11am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sun; g29)
This is the tiny silversmithing shop of Alberto Codiani and Laura Romero, both artists who create beautiful jewelry. Amber, ammonites and precious stones are incorporated into unique pieces that are sure to attract attention. Custom work available.
Walrus BooksBOOKS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4300-7135; www.walrus-books.com.ar; Estados Unidos 617; hnoon-8pm Tue-Sun; bLínea C Independencia)
Run by an American photographer, this tiny shop is probably the best English-language bookstore in BA. Thousands of new and used literature and nonfiction books line the shelves here, and there’s a selection of Latin American classics translated into English. Bring your quality books to trade; literary workshops offered too.
ImhotepANTIQUES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4862-9298; Defensa 916; h11am-6pm Sun-Fri; g29)
Come find old knickknacks at this eccentric shop. Small oddities such as Indian statuettes, Chinese snuff boxes, precious stone figurines and gargoyles make up some of the bizarre trinkets here. Also look for fantastical and mythological creatures; there are also plenty of skulls.
MoebiusCLOTHING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4361-2893; Defensa 1356; h11am-8pm Tue-Fri, noon-8pm Sat & Sun; g29)
This little shop’s racks are crowded with owner-designer Lilliana Zauberman’s kaleidoscopic products: 1970s-style jersey dresses, whimsical ruffled bikinis, skirts printed with koi fish and frog patterns, cherry-red trench coats and handbags made from recycled materials. Around 60 designers sell their work here, so there’s always something different, fun and new to keep an eye out for.
Puntos en el EspacioFASHION & ACCESSORIES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4307-7906; www.puntosenelespacio.com.ar; Carlos Calvo 450; h11am-8pm)
With over 40 designers represented, this store is a good place to check out edgy women's collections by rising stars in the local fashion world. There are also kids' and men's clothes, handbags, jewelry and a few shoes.
Materia UrbanaART, HOMEWARES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4361-5265; www.materiaurbana.com; Defensa 702; h11am-7pm Sun & Wed-Fri, 2-7pm Sat; g29)
This innovative design shop shows the work of over 100 local artists; cool finds include leather animal organizers, retro tote bags, plastic mates and jewelry made from metal, wood and leather.
Gil AntiguedadesANTIQUES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4361-5019; gilantiguedades.com.ar; Humberto Primo 412; h11am-1pm & 3-7pm Tue-Sat, 11am-7pm Sun; g29)
Going on 45 years, this cluttered antique shop sells everything you can imagine – china tea sets, leather hatboxes, old toys, mirrors, vintage suitcases, lace tablecloths and crystal glassware. Its annex (by appointment only) has wedding dresses and accessories.
VinotangoFOOD & DRINKS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4361-1101; www.vinotango.com.ar; Estados Unidos 488; h10:30am-9pm; g29)
A decent wine shop in San Telmo.
2Sports & Activities
oBiking Buenos AiresCYCLING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4300-5373; www.bikingbuenosaires.com; Perú 988; h9am-6pm; bLínea C Independencia)
Friendly American and Argentine guides take you on various tours of Buenos Aires; tour themes include graffiti and architecture. Recommended.
Fileteado Porteño
Walk around Buenos Aires enough and you can’t help noticing the colorful painted swirls of fileteado (also known as filete) decorating some public signs and buildings. Thought to have been inspired by intricate Italian metal designs, this beautiful stylistic artwork originally appeared on early-20th-century horse carts.
As time progressed, fileteado migrated to trucks and buses, softening these hulking vehicles with gaudy colors and symbols such as flowers, vines, birds, dragons and – of course – the Argentine flag. Today, fileteado on plaques serves to communicate proverbs and poetry.
Signs at the Mercado de Abasto (p150), South of Palermo | MARCELO CANTÓ / 500PX ©
Interestingly, this art form was once in danger of extinction. During the military dictatorship of 1976 to 1983 fileteado was banned from public-transportation systems. Fileteadores (fileteado artists) had to think of other creative places for their works. They started decorating signs, posters, newsstands and buildings, eventually evolving their labors from simple decorative touches into independent works of art. Fileteado has since become an integral part of Buenos Aires’ artistic culture.
Colorful door signs decorated in fi leteado style | ALEXANDR VOROBEV / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
You can buy plaques at ferias (street fairs), especially in San Telmo, where Carlos Gardel is a popular subject. At the Mercado de las Pulgas you’ll find fileteadores selling hand-painted signs, some of them from their workshops. To see buildings covered in fileteado, keep your eyes peeled in San Telmo, La Boca and Abasto (especially near Museo Casa Carlos Gardel). You can also visit the Bar de Filete (at Defensa), a restaurant with an informal filete museum next door.
Carlos Gardel sign on El Caminito, La Boca | PATAGONIALANDSCAPES / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
And to create this lovely artwork yourself, check out the classes given by Alfredo Genovese (www.fileteado.com.ar) or Lucero Maturano (www.fileteadoslucerom.com.ar).
La Boca
Sights
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
La Boca
Neighborhood Top Five
1El Caminito Strolling the cobblestones and admiring the colorful houses of this little street, where art vendors and buskers vie for your spare change.
2La Bombonera Watching Argentina's most famous fútbol (soccer) club, Boca Juniors, play in front of an exuberant crowd.
3Usina del Arte Catching a concert at the spectacular former power station turned arts center.
4Fundación Proa Checking out the latest contemporary art exhibition at the neighborhood's cutting-edge gallery.
5Museo Benito Quinquela Martín Viewing the powerful artwork of Quinquela Martín on display in his former home and taking in the views of the Riachuelo from the roof terrace.
Explore: La Boca
Since some areas of La Boca can be a little sketchy, it's best to visit the neighborhood during the day and take a bus or taxi to the sights. On your way in, note the Casa Amarilla ( GOOGLE MAP ; Av Almirante Brown 401; g29, 168, 33) on Av Almirante Brown. This is a replica of the country house belonging to Irish-born admiral and founder of Argentina's navy William (Guillermo) Brown, after whom the avenue is named. Three blocks further on (look to your left at the kink in the road), you’ll no
tice the curious Gothic structure called Torre Fantasma ( GOOGLE MAP ; Av Almirante Brown 800; g29, 33, 64) (Ghost Tower); local legend has it that the place is haunted.
When you reach the river, take a look at the Puente Nicolás Avellaneda which spans the Riachuelo, linking La Boca to the industrial suburb of Avellaneda; before the bridge’s completion in 1940, floods had washed away several others. From here, the road follows the river's edge to El Caminito.
The neighborhood's great pride and joy is Boca Juniors soccer team, whose stadium and excellent museum is four blocks north of El Caminito.
Local Life
ASoccer There's no better way to experience the spirit of La Boca than watching the neighborhood's beloved soccer team Boca Juniors play at La Bombonera.
ALive Music Porteños love to take advantage of the city's packed program of free concerts and other cultural offerings. Join them for a performance at the fantastic Usina del Arte arts center.
Lonely Planet Buenos Aires Page 14