1Belgrano
Museo LarretaMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4784-4040; www.buenosaires.gob.ar/museolarreta; Juramento 2291; admission AR$10, Thu free; hnoon-7pm Tue-Fri, 10am-8pm Sat & Sun; bLínea D Juramento)
Hispanophile novelist Enrique Larreta (1875–1961) resided in this elegant colonial-style house opposite Plaza Belgrano, which now displays his private art collection. It’s a grand and spacious old building containing classic Spanish art, period furniture, wood-carved religious items, and shields and armor. The tiled floors are beautiful and the art is well-lit. Be sure to stroll the lovely gardens out back.
Tours in Spanish are given at 3pm and 5pm on Saturday and Sunday and in English at 3pm on the last Friday of the month.
Museo Casa de YrurtiaMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4781-0385; https://museoyrurtia.cultura.gob.ar/; O'Higgins 2390; AR$10, Wed free; h11:30am-6pm Wed-Fri, 3-7pm Sat & Sun; bLínea D Juramento)
Reclusive Rogelio Yrurtia (1879–1950), best known for his sculpture Canto al Trabajo on Plazoleta Olazábal in San Telmo, designed this neocolonial residence. The home is full of Yrurtia's work – which focuses on human torsos – and works by his wife, painter Lía Correa Morales. Some pieces are so huge they're almost oppressive in the small rooms housing them. There are also pieces by Yrurtia's teacher and father-in-law, Lucio Correa Morales. The museum is currently closed for renovations.
Museo Histórico SarmientoMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4782-2354; https://museosarmiento.cultura.gob.ar; Juramento 2180; h1-6pm Mon-Fri, 2-7pm Sat & Sun; bLínea D Juramento)F
This museum at Plaza Belgrano contains memorabilia relating to Domingo F Sarmiento, one of Argentina's most celebrated presidents, diplomats and educators. Despite his provincial origins, Sarmiento was an eloquent writer who analyzed 19th-century Argentina from a cosmopolitan, clearly Eurocentric point of view, most notably in his masterful polemic Facundo (subtitled 'Civilization and Barbarism'). Text accompanying the exhibits is in Spanish.
1Nuñez
Espacio Memoria y Derechos HumanosMUSEUM
(Ex ESMA; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4702-9920; www.espaciomemoria.ar; Av del Libertador 8151, Nuñez; hnoon-5pm Fri-Sun; g15, 29, 130)F
Human rights groups estimate that during the military dictatorship of 1976 to 1983 up to 30,000 people were 'disappeared' by the state: kidnapped and taken to secret detention centers where they were tortured and killed. One such detention center was at the former naval campus known as the ESMA, where some 5000 men and women were held. Today the complex serves as a memorial to the victims and houses museums, cultural centers and the offices of several human rights organizations.
Sitio de Memoria ESMAMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4702-9920; www.espaciomemoria.ar; Av del Libertador 8151, Nuñez; hnoon-5pm Wed-Sun; g15, 29, 130)F
The former naval campus known as the ESMA is the most notorious of some 600 secret detention centers in Argentina, where during the military dictatorship of 1976 to 1983 tens of thousands of 'disappeared' people were taken to be tortured and killed. The actual building where the secret detention center was located, the Casino de Oficiales (officers' club), is now an excellent – though harrowing – museum. Due to the disturbing subject matter, children under 12 are not permitted.
The loft space where more than 5000 detainees were kept hooded and chained has been preserved, as has the 'nursery' where some 30 pregnant women gave birth to babies that were then taken and secretly given to families (often with military links) to raise as their own. Also part of the museum is the basement where detainees selected for a 'transfer' were taken before being put onto a plane and thrown alive into the Río de la Plata. Guided tours in English are given at 3pm on Saturday and Sunday with a minimum group size of seven people.
Casa Por La IdentidadMUSEUM
(Abuelas de Plaza de Mayo; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4702-9920; www.abuelas.org.ar; Av del Libertador 8151, Nuñez; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri; g15, 29, 130)F
This building at the Espacio Memoria y Derechos Humanos has photographs and explanatory texts (in Spanish) that celebrate the work of the Abuelas (grandmothers) of the Plaza de Mayo, an organization dedicated to uncovering the identities of the estimated 500 children born to mothers that were 'disappeared' by the Military Dictatorship of 1976 to 1983. No records were kept of the secret adoption of these children, who usually grew up with no knowledge of their true identity.
Museo MalvinasMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-5280-0750; www.museomalvinas.gob.ar; Av del Libertador 8151, Nuñez; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, noon-8pm Sat & Sun; g15, 29, 130)F
This well-executed museum, opened by Cristina Kirchner in 2014, is dedicated to the history of the Islas Malvinas (Falkland Islands) and Argentina's claim to sovereignty of them, as well as the 1982 war with Britain over the islands. The history and geography of the islands are explored in an introductory film on a 360-degree cinema screen, interactive exhibits and innovative displays.
It's located at the Espacio Memoria y Derechos Humanos in Nuñez.
1Costanera Norte
Parque de la MemoriaPARK
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4787-0999; http://parquedelamemoria.org.ar; Av Rafael Obligado 6745; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 8pm Sat & Sun; g33, 42, 37)F
On the edge of the river on the Costanera Norte is this landscaped park and gallery that serves as a memorial to the victims of the military dictatorships of 1969 to 1983. There is a monument dedicated to the disappeared and assassinated, with enough plaques for 30,000 names (9000 of them are inscribed), and a number of sculptures including a piece by Dennis Oppenheim and 53 road signs depicting the recent history of Argentina. A visitors center houses a gallery and archive.
Despite the darkness of the events the park memorializes, it's a pleasant place where families come to picnic, roller skate and enjoy the river views.
Tierra SantaAMUSEMENT PARK
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4784-9551; www.tierrasanta.com.ar; Av Costanera R Obligado 5790; adult/child AR$130/55; h9am-9pm Fri, noon-10pm Sat & Sun Apr-Nov, 4pm-midnight Fri-Sun Dec-Mar; c; g33, 42, 160)
Though many people who visit this religious theme park are devout Catholics, others go for the kitschy spectacle of the animatronic dioramas of Adam and Eve and the Last Supper among others; photo opportunities abound. Tierra Santa's pièce de résistance is a giant Jesus rising from a fake mountain – aka the resurrection – every half-hour.
The wonderfully tacky theme park is roughly based on Jerusalem. Head straight to the manger scene, where colorful lights and minimally animatronic figures swoon over baby Jesus. Better yet is the creation of the world, which features real rushing waters and life-size fake animals. From here it's a 30-second walk to witness the 12m-tall animatronic Jesus rise from the Calvary mound, open his eyes and finally turn his palms toward the emotional devoted below. Missed the show? Don't fret: another resurrection is just around the corner.
The park isn’t just for Christians – there are reproductions of the Wailing Wall, along with a synagogue and a mosque. So regardless of religious affiliation, enjoy nibbling on a shawarma or take in an Arabic dancing show. It's a spectacle you won't find anywhere else on earth – especially not in Jerusalem.
5Eating
Ask around to get the locals' recommendations for their favorite neighborhood eatery – the food is bound to be excellent and the atmosphere relaxed and friendly.
La PaceñaEMPANADAS$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4788-2282; www.lapacena.com; Echeverría 2570; empanadas AR$20; hnoon-3:30pm & 8pm-midnight Mon-Sat, 8pm-midnight Sun; bLínea D Juramento)
With thick, golden pastry and spicy fillings, the Bolivian-style empanadas sold at this family-run joint are some of Buenos Aires' best. Also on the menu are pizzas and traditional Argentine soups and stews.
6Drinking & Nightlife
There are plenty of neighborhood bars and cafes serving the locals of these residential areas, so you won't need to search far and wide for a drink around here. The C
onstanera Norte is home to some of the city's biggest clubs.
JetCLUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4872-5599; www.jet.com.ar; Av Rafael Obligado 4801; h10pm-6am Thu-Sat; g33, 45, 160)
Jet definitely has an exclusive vibe that attracts celebrities and fashionistas, so put on your best get-up or you won’t make the dress code. Early on you can hang in the swanky cocktail lounge, nibble on tapas or sushi and enjoy the marina view. As the night progresses, however, the hip young clubbers start making their appearance.
Music runs toward house and electro.
3Entertainment
La GlorietaTANGO
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; [email protected]; Echeverría 1800, Barrancas de Belgrano; h7-11pm Sat & Sun; g15, 29, 42)F
It’s hard to imagine a more romantic setting for an outdoor milonga than the park bandstand at the Barrancas de Belgrano, where every Saturday and Sunday evening dancers of all ages and levels come to tango. There’s usually a free lesson beforehand from 6pm to 7pm.
El MonumentalFOOTBALL
(Estadio Monumental; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4789-1200; www.cariverplate.com; Alcorta 7597; museum admission AR$140-180; hmuseum 10am-7pm; g42, 29)
Known as El Monumental, River Plate fútbol (soccer) club's home ground is the largest stadium in Argentina, with a capacity of 76,000. Check the website for tickets to upcoming games or swat up on the history of the club at the stadium museum.
Argentina's national team also plays here, and the stadium has hosted concerts by the likes of Paul McCartney, Roger Waters of Pink Floyd and the Rolling Stones.
7Shopping
Feria Plaza BelgranoMARKET
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/Feria.Plaza.Belgrano/; Juramento 2200; h10am-8pm Sat & Sun; bLínea D Juramento)
Belgrano’s artisan market is a great spot on a sunny weekend. Browse the stalls for handmade jewelry, mate (tea-like beverage) gourds, clothes and leather goods, mostly sold by the artisans who made them.
2Sports & Activities
Parque NorteSWIMMING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4787-1382; www.parquenorte.com; Avs Cantilo & Guiraldes; adult/child pool & park Mon-Fri AR$160/85, Sat AR$190/110, Sun AR$210/110; hpool 9am-8pm, park to midnight; c; g33, 42, 160)
When the temperatures and humidity skyrocket, head to this large water park. It’s great for families with huge shallow pools, plus a large waterslide and lots of umbrellas and lounge chairs (both cost extra). There are plenty of grassy areas in which to enjoy a picnic or mate (tea-like beverage). Bring your own towels, and make sure you’re clean – quick ‘health’ inspections are done to check for such unpleasantries as athlete’s foot or lice.
Palermo
Sights
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
Sports & Activities
Palermo
Neighborhood Top Five
1Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires Checking out the contemporary artwork at this modern glassy museum where you can commune with Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo.
2Parque 3 de Febrero Cycling, jogging and rollerblading around the lakes or just walking along the paths at this attractive park.
3Restaurants Eating your way around Palermo's fabulous restaurants, such as La Mar Cebicheria.
4Museo Evita Getting the scoop on Argentina's iconic former first lady at the museum housed in an elegant mansion.
5Shopping Rifling through designer clothing boutiques such as Blackmamba and browsing the homewares stores in Palermo Viejo.
Explore: Palermo
Most of Palermo's museums are located near its green parks. They're spread out over this large neighborhood, so give yourself plenty of time to see them. Museo Evita, Museo Nacional de Arte Decorativo and Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires (MALBA) all have pleasant cafe-restaurants with outdoor areas.
Palermo Viejo is roughly bounded by Santa Fe, Scalabrini Ortiz, Córdoba and Dorrego. It’s further divided into Palermo Hollywood (north of the train tracks) and Palermo Soho (south of the tracks), both full of old buildings, leafy sidewalks and cobbled streets. These areas have some of BA's best restaurants, along with plenty of bars and nightclubs; Plaza Serrano has dozens of sidewalk tables and attracts a young crowd on weekends.
Buenos Aires’ most famous fashion designers have opened up dozens of boutiques here, and there are many designer housewares stores and other themed shops. It's not the cheapest place to shop, but likely the most fun – wear comfortable shoes as you'll be walking a lot.
The more low-key area immediately south of Scalabrini Ortiz is home to a crop of hip new restaurants and bars; keep an eye on what's new in this emerging neighborhood hot spot.
Further north is Las Cañitas; it occupies a wedge of blocks close to the polo grounds. It’s mostly a residential area on the border with Belgrano and named after the fields of sugar cane that used to grow here. Just a few blocks long, it’s densely packed with eateries, bars, cafes and even a club or two.
Local Life
AHanging out On sunny weekends Palermo's residents flock to Parque 3 de Febrero (known locally as the bosques). Don't forget to bring your mate, yerba tea and thermos of hot water.
ADog walking To catch a glimpse of BA's famous dog walkers and their charges, head to Parque Las Heras, at the corner of Avs Las Heras and Coronel Díaz. The best time to see them is late morning during the week.
ANightlife Porteños wait until after midnight to congregate at bars, and after 2am to head out to the clubs.
Getting There & Away
ABus Take buses 29, 59, 64 and 152 from the Microcentro to Plaza Italia; bus 39 from Congreso to Palermo Viejo; bus 111 from the Microcentro to Palermo Viejo.
ASubte Línea D runs through Palermo along Av Santa Fe.
Lonely Planet's Top Tip
Grab a bike and make use of the kilometers of protected bike paths along Palermo's green parks. It's a great way to see the area's many spread-out sites while breathing in some fresh air and getting exercise. The bike paths also exist within Palermo Soho and Hollywood. Bike rentals are available at a few bike-touring companies and on nice weekends near Av de la Infanta Isabel and Av Pedro Montt. Or sign up to use the yellow city bikes for free!
Best Museums
A Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires
A Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes
A Museo Nacional de Arte Decorativo
A Museo Evita
A Museo Xul Solar
Best Places to Eat
A La Carnicería
A La Mar Cebicheria
A Proper
A Las Pizarras
A Sunae Asian Cantina
Best Places to Shop
A Elementos Argentinos
A Blackmamba
A Humawaca
A Bosque
TOP SIGHT
Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires (MALBA)
Housed in an elegant building with glass and cement walls is this airy modern-art museum, one of BA’s finest. It contains some of the best works by classic and contemporary Argentine artists, such as Xul Solar and Antonio Berni, plus some pieces by other Latin American painters like Mexican duo Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo.
The Collection
Opened in 2001, the MALBA is home to the private art collection of Eduardo F Costantini, a millionaire and philanthropist who has gathered together more than 200 of Latin America's best artworks from the 20th century. Well-known Argentine painters represented here include Lino Enea Spilimbergo, Jorge de la Vega, Emilio Pettoruti and Guillermo Kuitca. Many of these artists confront social issues in their works. If they're on display, check out figurative artist Antonio Berni's nuevo realismo (new realism) oeuvres.
Among the collection is the work of Tarsila do Amaral, one of Brazil's most famous painters; look for her Abaporu (1928), one of Brazil's most important paintings. Colombian Fernando Botero depicts human figures in cartoonish, overly plu
mp sizes, as in his Los Viudos (1968). And Frida Kahlo's charming Self-Portrait with Monkey and Parrot (1942) cost Costantini nearly US$3.2 million.
World-class temporary exhibits are shown in several rooms.
Don't Miss
AFrida Kahlo's Self-Portrait with Monkey and Parrot
ADiego Rivera's Retrato de Ramón Gómez de la Serna
ATemporary exhibitions
AArt-house cinema
Practicalities
AMALBA
A MAP GOOGLE MAP
A%011-4808-6500
Awww.malba.org.ar
AAv Figueroa Alcorta 3415
AAR$100, Wed AR$50
Ahnoon-8pm Thu-Mon, to 9pm Wed
Ag102, 130, 124
FANDRADE / GETTY IMAGES ©
TOP SIGHT
Parque 3 de Febrero
Also known as Bosques de Palermo, this sweeping green space abounds with small lakes and paddleboats, pretty gazebos, a monument to literary greats called El Jardín de los Poetas (the Garden of Poets) and the pleasant Rosedal (rose garden). On weekends it's filled with families picnicking, friends playing fútbol (soccer), lovers smooching and strolling, and outdoor enthusiasts jogging and cycling.
Lonely Planet Buenos Aires Page 19