Siamo nel FornoPIZZA$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4775-0337; Costa Rica 5886; pizzas AR$190-230; h8pm-midnight Tue-Thu & Sun, to 1am Fri & Sat; g111, 93, 39)
Possibly the city’s best Naples-style pizzas, made with quality ingredients and finished in a hot wood-fired oven so the thin crusts char beautifully. Try the margherita, with tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, basil and olive oil; the champignon and prosciutto comes with mushrooms, ham and goat cheese. Also bakes excellent calzone.
El Preferido de PalermoARGENTINE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4774-6585; Jorge Luis Borges 2108; mains AR$110-200; h9am-11:30pm Mon-Sat; bLínea D Plaza Italia)
You can’t get much more traditional than this atmospheric, family-run joint. Order tapas, meat platters, homemade pastas and seafood soups, or try one of its specialties – the tortillas, milanesas (breaded meat cutlets) and Cuban rice with veal and polenta. Hanging hams, jars of olives and high tables with blocky wood stools add to the charm.
El TejanoBARBECUE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4833-3545; www.facebook.com/ElTejanoBA; Honduras 4416; mains AR$150-180; h8-11pm Tue-Sat, 12:30-4:30pm Wed-Sun; g15, 140, 141)
Missing Texas-style barbecue from back home? Here’s the place to scratch that itch. Texan Larry Rogers grills up the city’s best beef and pork ribs, along with smoked brisket, pulled pork and chicken wings. The offerings may change by the day, but you can always expect amazingly tender and delicious meats.
Il Ballo del MattoneITALIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4776-4247; www.facebook.com/ballodelmattone; Gorriti 5737; lunch mains AR$190, dinner AR$130-300; hnoon-4pm & 9pm-1:30am Mon-Sat; g111, 93, 39)
This artsy, eclectic trattoria attracts artists, musicians and tourists, among others, with its delicious homemade pastas. Cute little patio for warm days.
Its annex is two blocks away at Gorriti 5893 ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4776-8648; www.facebook.com/ballodelmattone/; Gorriti 5893; lunch mains AR$190, dinner mains AR$130-300; hnoon-4pm & 9pm-1:30am Mon-Sat; g111, 93, 39).
Museo Evita RestauranteARGENTINE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4800-1599; www.museoevitaresto.com.ar; JM Gutiérrez 3926; mains AR$160-280; h9am-midnight Mon-Sat, to 7pm Sun; bLínea D Plaza Italia)
This restaurant’s charming tiled courtyard is a prettgoy spot for an alfresco lunch, and the cuisine is thoroughly sophisticated, too. Locals and visitors come for the gourmet sandwiches, steaks and salads, or try Evita's favorite, the milanesa de ternera with salad, followed by flan.
ArtemisiaVEGETARIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4773-2641; www.artemisianatural.com; Costa Rica 5893; mains AR$145-240; h10am-12:30am Tue-Sat, to 5pm Sun; v; bLínea D Ministro Carranza)
At this gorgeous corner restaurant you'll want to linger over the tasty organic, vegetarian food (there are a few fish options available, too). The large windows let in tonnes of light, and local artwork and a sunny, internal patio packed with plants add to the ambience. Meals come with a basket of excellent, freshly baked bread.
Oui OuiINTERNATIONAL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4778-9614; www.ouioui.com.ar; Nicaragua 6068; mains AR$85-240; h8am-9pm Tue-Fri, 10am-8pm Sat & Sun; W; bLínea D Ministro Carranza)
Pain au chocolat and shabby chic? Oui. This French-style cafe produces the goods – dark coffee, buttery croissants and jars of tangy lemonade – and has a small and cozy interior. Creative salads, gourmet sandwiches and luscious pastries are also on offer. Its annex, Almacén Oui Oui ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4776-4442; www.ouioui.com.ar; Nicaragua 6099; mains AR$85-240; h8am-9pm; W; bLínea D Ministro Carranza), is on the same block.
BioVEGETARIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4774-3880; www.biorestaurant.com.ar; Humboldt 2192; mains AR$125-260; h10am-midnight; v; bLínea D Palermo)S
Tired of meat? Then make a beeline for this casual family-run restaurant, which specializes in healthy, organic and vegetarian fare. Try the quinoa hamburgers, Mediterranean couscous or lentil milanesa, washed down with refreshing ginger lemonade. Also caters to celiacs, vegans and raw foodists. Cooking classes held on Tuesday afternoons.
Buenos Aires VerdeVEGETARIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4775-9594; www.bsasverde.com; Gorriti 5657; mains AR$145-215; h9am-12:30am Mon-Sat; v; g111, 140, 39)
Long-running organic, vegetarian restaurant serving wraps, salads, soups and sandwiches; wash them down with a wheatgrass juice or fruit smoothie. Small grocery too.
MirandaPARRILLA$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4771-4255; www.parrillamiranda.com; Costa Rica 5602; mains AR$200-260; h9am-1am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; W; g111, 39, 93)
Fashionable Miranda is the parrilla (steakhouse) of choice for those looking for both style and substance. It’s a pleasant modern steakhouse with concrete walls, high ceilings and rustic wooden furniture, but high-quality grilled beef is the main attraction here – try the popular ojo de bife (rib eye). If you score a sidewalk table on a warm day, life doesn’t get much better.
Social la LechuzaARGENTINE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4773-2781; Uriarte 1980; mains AR$95-230; h8pm-midnight Tue, noon-3:30pm & 8pm-midnight Wed-Sun; bLínea D Plaza Italia)
A world away from its hip neighbors, this classic joint holds on to tradition and has a loyal, local clientele. Quirky art adorns the walls including amateur owl paintings (lechuza means ‘owl’). Meats and pastas are served in abundant portions, but don't miss the desserts such as chocolate mousse and tiramisu.
oLa Mar CebicheriaPERUVIAN$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4776-5543; http://lamarcebicheria.com.ar/; Arévalo 2024; mains AR$250-420; h8pm-midnight Mon, 12:30pm-midnight Tue-Sun; W; bLínea D Ministro Carranza)
For lovers of fresh fish, this upmarket Peruvian cebicheria is a welcome addition to the meat-dominated BA food scene. The team at La Mar traveled across Argentina to source their ingredients, and the quality of the fish is evident in the eating. The menu is lengthy, with a choice of Peruvian dishes, and there's plenty of outdoor seating.
oProperARGENTINE$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4831-0027; www.properbsas.com.ar; Aráoz 1676; small plates AR$60-290; h8:30pm-midnight Tue-Sat; W; g111, 160, 141)
Bringing new life to the BA food scene, the young chefs behind Proper pack flavor into seasonal produce cooked in a wood-fired oven at their roughly finished restaurant in a former car-repair shop. Order several small plates to share and delight in dishes such as perfectly cooked lamb chops or sweet potato with Patagonian blue cheese, fried almonds and kale.
The large tables fill up quickly; come early.
oLa CarniceríaPARRILLA$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-2071-7199; www.facebook.com/xlacarniceriax/; Thames 2317; mains AR$275-295; h8pm-midnight Tue-Fri, 1-3:30pm & 8pm-midnight Sat & Sun; bLínea D Plaza Italia)
This modern parrilla caused a buzz when it opened in 2014. The menu is limited but everything on it is spectacular, from the crispy provoleta (barbecued cheese) to the tenderloin and rib cuts. This is a place for serious meat lovers who won't be put off by the butcher-themed decor. Creativity runs rampant, and portions are huge. Reserve ahead.
oSunae Asian CantinaASIAN$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4776-8122; www.sunaeasiancantina.com; Humboldt 1626; mains AR$235-300; h8-11:30pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; W; g111, 108, 140)
After honing her skills at her popular closed-door restaurant, chef Christina Sunae has moved on to open a sophisticated Asian cantina in Palermo Hollywood. The menu spans Southeast Asia, featuring Malaysian rendang (meat curry), Filipino pork buns, Vietnamese dishes, tangy Thai salads and fiery curries from the Chiang Mai region.
La CabreraPARRILLA$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4832-5754; www.lacabrera.com.ar; José Antonio Cabrera 5099; mains AR$244-400; h12:30-4:30pm & 8:30pm-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat; g140, 34)
Hugely popular for grilling up BA’s most sublime meats, so soft they can be cut with a spoon. Steaks weigh in at 400g or 800g and arrive wit
h many little complimentary side dishes. Come at 7pm for happy hour, when everything is 40% off – arrive early to score a table; reservations are taken from 8:30pm only.
Has a second location ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4832-5754; http://lacabrera.com.ar/; José Antonio Cabrera 5127; mains AR$244-400; h12:30-4:30pm & 8:30pm-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat; g140, 34) nearby.
Casa CoupageINTERNATIONAL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4777 9295; www.casacoupage.com; Soler 5518; 6-course tasting menu AR$650; h8:30-11pm Wed-Sat; bLínea D Palermo)
Wine lovers will love this closed-door restaurant run by two friendly sommeliers, Santiago Mymicopulo and Inés Mendieta. The gourmet food is gorgeously presented and will be some of the best you’ll experience in BA. The wine pairings are excellent and the pours generous; expect to try some of Argentina’s tastiest malbec, pinot, torrontés and chardonnay. Reserve ahead.
OviedoARGENTINE$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4822-5415; www.oviedoresto.com.ar; Beruti 2602; mains AR$290-390; hnoon-1am Mon-Sat, to 4pm Sun; bLínea D Pueyrredón)
This smart restaurant offers reliably good, classic dishes including braised rabbit, duck, squid and langoustine risotto, and trout along with the usual beef and pasta. The same menu is served all day with no break in service, making it a good option if you find yourself hungry at an odd time. Desserts are homemade, as are the breads.
SudestadaASIAN$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4776-3777; Guatemala 5602; set lunch AR$145-160, mains AR$280-310; hnoon-3:30pm & 8pm-midnight Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat; bLínea D Palermo)
Sudestada’s tasty curries, stir-fries and noodle dishes are inspired by the cuisines of Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia and Singapore – and if you order them spicy, they’re actually spicy. Don’t forgo an exotic cocktail or delicious lychee licuado (smoothie). The popular set-lunch special is great value.
Green BambooVIETNAMESE$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4775-7050; www.green-bamboo.com.ar; Costa Rica 5802; mains AR$230-310; h8:30pm-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat; g111, 93, 39)
This sultry Vietnamese eatery offers just a small selection of dishes, but all are well prepared and flavorful. Sample dishes such as seafood curry, marinated sirloin in lemongrass and 'traditional' pho (well, Argentine-style – so don't expect much tradition). The atmosphere is dim and romantic, with a few low candle-lit tables, and the tropical cocktails are excellent.
Steaks by LuisARGENTINE$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4776-0780; www.steakbuenosaires.net; Malabia 1300; 5 courses with wine US$85; h8:45pm Mon, Tue & Thu, 8:30pm Fri; g140, 15, 168)
An upscale asado (barbecue grill) experience where you’ll nibble on cheese and sip boutique wine while watching large hunks of meat being grilled. Advance reservations essential.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
BEHIND CLOSED DOORS
A popular Buenos Aires culinary offshoot are ‘closed-door restaurants’ or puertas cerradas. These places are open only a few days per week, have timed seatings and are generally prix fixe (and mostly cash only). They’re not marked with signs and you have to ring a bell to enter. They won’t even tell you the address until you make reservations (mandatory, of course). But for that tingly feeling brought on by discovering something off the beaten path – with some of the city's best food to boot – these are the places.
There are two kinds of puertas cerradas: the first is where you dine in the chef's actual home, and usually sit at a large communal table. This is a great way to meet other people, often interesting travelers or expats; it's ideal for folks traveling alone. The second kind has more of a restaurant feel and tables are for separate groups – just like a regular restaurant, but not open to walk-ins. Many puertas cerradas are located in Palermo.
Some of BA's best puertas cerradas include iLatina, serving exquisite Colombian food; Casa Saltshaker, where you'll sample ex–New Yorker Dan Perlman's culinary creations; Casa Felix, a pescatarian's delight; and Casa Coupage, specialising in modern Argentine cuisine and wine pairings.
6Drinking & Nightlife
With bars on every corner – from craft-beer pubs to coffee bars to speakeasy-style cocktail lounges – Palermo is the best place to go out for a drink in Buenos Aires. Buzzing at any time of the day or night, there's a party spot for everyone in this neighborhood.
oVerneCOCKTAIL BAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4822-0980; http://vernecocktailclub.com; Av Medrano 1475; h9pm-2am Sun-Tue, 8pm-2am Wed, to 3am Thu, to 4am Fri, 9pm-4am Sat; g160, 15)
This upscale yet casual bar has a vague Jules Verne theme. Cocktails are the house specialty, whipped up by one of BA's best bartenders, Fede Cuco. A few tables, some cushy sofas and an airy outdoor patio offer a variety of seating options, but plant yourself at the bar to watch the mixologists work their magic.
oOn TapCRAFT BEER
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4771-5424; www.ontap.com.ar; Costa Rica 5527; h6pm-midnight Tue-Wed & Sun, to 1am Thu-Sat)
This popular pub has 20 Argentine microbrews on tap, including IPAs, pilsners, stouts, wheat porters and honey beers. It’s more of a place to enjoy beers than to hang out – there’s only counter seating and a communal table, though a few burgers and other pub food are available. Bring a growler for refills; happy hour runs from 6pm to 8:30pm.
oLAB Training Center & Coffee ShopCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4843-1790; www.labcafe.com.ar; Humboldt 1542; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-8pm Sat; g111, 140, 39)
The high ceilings, exposed brick wall and industrial aesthetic here are such hallmarks of a hipster coffee joint that the place borders on self-parody, but the coffee is excellent. Choose your house-roasted beans and have them run through a Chemex, AeroPress, V60, Kalita, syphon or Clever Dripper. Mostly counter seating.
Brewing and espresso classes also on offer.
oNiceto ClubCLUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4779-9396; www.nicetoclub.com; Niceto Vega 5510; hThu-Sat; g111, 140, 34)
One of the city’s biggest crowd-pullers, the can’t-miss event at Niceto Club is Thursday night’s Club 69, a subversive DJ extravaganza featuring gorgeously attired showgirls, dancing drag queens, futuristic video installations and off-the-wall performance art. On weekend nights, national and international spin masters take the booth to entertain lively crowds with blends of hip-hop, electronic beats, cumbia and reggae.
oGlamCLUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4963-2521; www.glambsas.com.ar; José Antonio Cabrera 3046; hmidnight-7am Thu & Sat; g29, 109)
Housed in an old mansion with tall brick hallways, this maze-like gay club brings in a crowd of young, good-looking guys here to dance. There are no shows to distract, just casual lounges, pretty bars and a fun atmosphere that makes this BA's top gay party. Saturday is the biggest night here.
BluedogBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4832-3226; www.facebook.com/bluedogbeerstation/; Gorriti 4758; h6pm-midnight Tue-Thu & Sun, to 1am Fri & Sat; W)
Surf the wave of BA's craft beer revolution at this small bar with an exposed brick, polished concrete and wooden interior. The 12 ales on tap are produced by some of the best local breweries including Grunge, Berlina and Cheverry. Happy hour until 8:30pm. Bar snacks also available.
BenaimBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/BenaimBA/; Gorriti 4015; h6pm-12:30am Mon-Thu, to 3am Fri, noon-3am Sat, noon-12:30am Sun; g140, 39, 99)
Order a pint of IPA or golden ale from the caravan bar and drink it under the fairy lights and hanging plants in Benaim's attractive beer garden. There's also a kitchen serving good-value Jewish street food, such as hummus and falafel, kebabs and pastrami. Happy hour is from 6pm to 8pm.
Frank’sCOCKTAIL BAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/FranksBar.ar; Arévalo 1445; h9pm-4am Wed-Sat; g111, 140, 39)
This plush and elegant speakeasy bar requires a password (via telephone booth) to get in – follow the clues on the Facebook page. Inside it’s a beautiful space with crystal chandeliers, billowy ceiling dr
apes and an exclusive feel. Classic cocktails from before the 1930s are stirred – never blended – and served to a crowd of locals and foreigners.
Suspiria ResplendorisCOCKTAIL BAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4832-2774; www.suspiriaresplendoris.com; Nicaragua 4346; h8pm-2am Tue-Thu, to 4am Fri, 9pm-4am Sat; bLínea D Scalabrini Ortiz)
Look for this classy cocktail joint behind an unmarked, art-deco-style door. Inspired by the film The Shining, inside the dimly-lit place is all mirrors and velvet, with the bar taking central stage. With a creative menu of expertly mixed drinks, this is a bar for serious cocktail aficionados. Also serves a selection of meals and bar snacks.
Vive CaféCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4774-5461; www.facebook.com/ViveCafeTienda/; Costa Rica 5722; h9:30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 11am-8pm Sat, 2-7pm Sun; W; bLínea D Palermo)
If you're fussy about coffee, head to Vive for your flat white or cold brew fix – it'll be made with quality Colombian beans and prepared with a smile by the friendly owners, a young Colombian-Argentine couple. There are a few pastries available too, but the coffee is the star of the show.
Lonely Planet Buenos Aires Page 21