His devoted followers cannot pass a day without listening to him; as the saying goes, 'Gardel sings better every day.'
5Eating
Hip Villa Crespo is the place to go for brunch, while Almagro and Boedo have some fantastic old-time bars and restaurants, some of them neighborhood classics. Once is a good place to hunt for ethnic foods with Jewish, Peruvian or Korean flavors.
Guarda la ViejaARGENTINE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4863-7923; Billinghurst 699; mains AR$94-205; h6pm-2am Sun-Thu, to 5am Fri & Sat; W; bLínea B Carlos Gardel)
With a reliable menu of tasty pizzas, salads, pastas and milaneses (breaded meat cutlets), it's no surprise that this corner restaurant-bar in Abasto is so popular. Sit at one of the pavement tables and order a few raciones (snacks) or share a picada (shared appetizer plate) – they come laden with calamari, ham, cheeses, olives, sweet potato and homemade bread.
Café MargotARGENTINE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4957-0001; Av Boedo 857; mains AR$57-200; h8am-2am; W; bLínea E Boedo)
Opened in 1904, this classic cafe in the bohemian neighborhood of Boedo is a typically porteño spot to relax with a picada (a platter of cold cuts, cheese and olives) and a bottle of wine, or a frosty mug of beer and a sandwich piled high with sliced turkey.
SarkisMIDDLE EASTERN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4772-4911; Thames 1101; mains AR$60-170; hnoon-3pm & 8pm-1am; g140, 111, 34)
The food is fabulous and well-priced at this long-standing Middle Eastern restaurant – come with a group to sample many exotic dishes. Start with the roasted eggplant hummus, boquerones (marinated sardines) or parras rellenas (stuffed grape leaves), then follow up with kebabs or lamb in yogurt sauce. Less busy at lunchtime; there's usually a wait for a table at dinner.
Pan Y ArteARGENTINE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4957-6922; www.panyarte.com.ar; Av Boedo 880; mains AR$90-240; h9am-1am; W; bLínea E Boedo)
There’s a wonderful old-time atmosphere at this bohemian eatery. The menu includes a range of sandwiches, empanadas and picadas (a plate of appetizers) and there's also an organic bakery and products such as cheese and crackers to purchase. It's in a great, local neighborhood. Often has piano concerts and tango nights.
There's also a theater here offering some interesting independent productions; see the website for upcoming events.
Café CrespinCAFE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4855-3771; www.cafecrespin.com.ar; Vera 699; mains AR$130-210, set brunches AR$290-600; h8am-8pm Tue-Fri, 9am-8pm Sat, noon-7pm Sun; W; bLínea B Malabia)
Cute corner cafe in Villa Crespo. Stock up on pancakes, French toast and bagel sandwiches for breakfast, or go for the quesadillas, salmon salad or ham-and-cheese tostados (toasted sandwiches) at lunchtime. Tasty brunches, and there are also good pastries and a bakery on the premises.
MalvónCAFE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4774-2563; www.malvonba.com.ar; Serrano 789; mains AR$150-285; h8am-8:30pm Sun & Mon, to midnight Tue-Thu, 9pm-12:30am Fri & Sat; bLínea B Medrano)
Famous for its US-style weekend brunch – which features pancakes, French toast and eggs Benedict – Malvón has a wonderfully rustic yet upscale atmosphere. The gourmet sandwiches are tasty, but there are also great bagels, burgers, tapas and baked treats including scones, muffins and pecan pie. Expect a wait on the weekend.
Bi WonKOREAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4372-1146; Junín 548; mains AR$150-230; hnoon-3pm & 7:30-11:30pm Mon-Fri, 7:30-11:30pm Sat; bLínea B Pasteur)
Korean food can’t be beat at this simple restaurant. Go for the bulgogi (grill the meat yourself at the table), bibimbap (rice bowl with meat, veggies, egg and hot sauce) or kim chee chigue (kimchi soup with pork – for adventurous, spice-loving tongues only!). And don’t forget to say kamsamnida (thank you) to your server at the end.
oi LatinaSOUTH AMERICAN$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4857-9095; www.ilatinabuenosaires.com; Murillo 725; 7-course tasting menu AR$1400; h8-11pm Tue-Sat; bLínea B Malabia)
Located south of Palermo in Villa Crespo is one of BA’s best restaurants: i Latina. The set menu consists of seven courses, all exquisitely prepared and presented. Flavors are incredibly stimulating and complex; this isn’t a place to simply fill your tummy, but rather to savor a gustatory experience that will dazzle your taste buds. Reservation required.
oCasa FelixSEAFOOD$$$
(http://colectivofelix.com/buenos-aires/cenas/; 5-course tasting menu AR$600; v)
At his closed-door restaurant in the Chacarita neighborhood, chef Diego Felix welcomes his guests with a cocktail in the candle-lit patio area, next to the herb and vegetable garden where many of his ingredients are grown. The five-course menu changes seasonally, but the dishes are always fresh, inventive, largely vegetarian and inspired by Felix's travels around South America.
The exact address is given when you make a reservation.
WORTH A DETOUR
FERIA DE MATADEROS
In the working-class barrio of Mataderos is this excellent folk market and fair ( GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4342-9629; www.facebook.com/fmatadero/; cnr Avs Lisandro de la Torre & de los Corrales; h11am-8pm Sun Apr–mid-Dec, 6pm-midnight Sat late Jan–mid-Mar; g126, 55). Merchants offer handmade crafts and regional cuisine including locro (a corn and meat stew) and humita (a savory corn and cheese mixture wrapped in husks). Folk singers, dancers and gauchos on horseback entertain, and nearby there’s a small museum (Gaucho Museum; GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4687-1949; Av de los Corrales 6436, Mataderos; AR$15; h11am-7:30pm Sun; g143, 91, 101) containing exhibits on gaucho life and the history of the meat-packing area of Mataderos.
Call ahead in between seasons to make sure it’s open. From downtown take bus 126 or from Palermo take bus 55; the journey takes about one hour. You can also take a taxi to and from Mataderos if you’re pinched for time.
6Drinking & Nightlife
These neighborhoods are home to some fabulous old-time cafes (in Almagro and Boedo), as well as some hipper bars (in Villa Crespo and Abasto).
Las VioletasCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4958-7387; http://lasvioletas.com/; Av Rivadavia 3899; h8am-2am; bLínea A Castro Barros)
Dating back to 1884, this historic coffeehouse's stained-glass awnings, high ceilings and gilded details make it one of the most beautiful cafes in the capital. Come for the luxurious afternoon tea and be sure to pick something up in the cake shop on the way out.
878COCKTAIL BAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4773-1098; www.878bar.com.ar; Thames 878; h7pm-3am Mon-Thu, to 4:30pm Fri, 8pm-4:30am Sat & Sun; g55)
Hidden behind an unsigned door is this ‘secret’ bar, but it’s hardly exclusive. Enter a wonderland of elegant, low lounge furniture and red-brick walls; for whiskey lovers there are over 80 kinds to try, but the cocktails are tasty too. If you’re hungry, tapas are available (reserve for dinners). Vermouth happy hour is 7pm to 9pm Monday to Friday.
El BandarínBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4862-7757; http://elbanderin.com.ar; Guardia Vieja 3601; h8:30am-midnight Mon-Wed, to 2am Thu & Fri; bLínea B Medrano)
This traditional neighborhood cafe and bar has been serving the locals their morning cafe con leche (milky coffee) and afternoon beers since 1923. Inside the old brick walls are covered with soccer memorabilia (el bandarín means 'the flag').
CossabPUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-2060-5023; Carlos Calvo 4199; h6:30pm-1am Wed-Thu, to 3am Fri, 7:30pm-3am Sat, to 1am Sun; bLínea E Boedo)
This pub in Boedo was serving the needs of BA's beer lovers long before hip new craft-beer bars starting popping up across the city. It has one of BA's best selections of world beers, with a good choice of German, Dutch and Belgian brews available, as well as Cossab's own IPA, Scotch, Stout and others on tap.
Also serves a selection of sandwiches and pizzas.
AmerikaCLUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4865-4416; www.ameri-k.com.ar; Gascón 1040; hFri-Sun; bLínea B Medrano)
&n
bsp; BA’s largest and feistiest gay nightclub, long-running Amerika attracts all kinds of folks – but Saturdays are especially popular with gay guys. There are two music floors, one electronica and one Latina, plus canilla libre (all-you-can-drink) on Fridays and Saturdays. Large video screens, stripper shows, four bars and a wild dark room keep things interesting.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
AVANT-GARDE THEATER
Get off-the-beaten-play path and go for something out of the ordinary – there's plenty of choice in this creative city for unique and worthwhile theater.
Actors Studio Teatro ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4983-9883; www.actors-studio.org; Av Díaz Vélez 3842; bLínea A Castro Barros) Offers new interpretations of old classics, along with cutting-edge productions in its 120-seat theater. Also has occasional acting classes.
El Camarín de las Musas ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4862-0655; www.elcamarindelasmusas.com.ar; Mario Bravo 960; bLínea B Medrano) Offers contemporary dance and theater. There are also workshops and classes available, and a trendy restaurant-cafe provides affordable snacks.
El Cubo ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4963-2568; www.cuboabasto.com.ar; Pasaje Zelaya 3053; bLínea B Carlos Gardel) A hip small Abasto space, it hosts gutsy theater pieces and offbeat performances such as queer musicals.
Espacio Callejón ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4862-1167; http://espaciocallejon.com/; Humahuaca 3759; bLínea B Medrano) A small independent venue that showcases edgy new theater, music and dance, and offers a few classes (including 'clown' acting).
3Entertainment
oLa Bomba de TiempoLIVE MUSIC
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.labombadetiempo.com; Sarmiento 3131, Ciudad Cultural Konex; AR$70; h7-10pm Mon; bLínea B Carlos Gardel)
One of BA’s most unique events takes place every Monday when the long-running percussion group La Bomba de Tiempo plays at Konex. You'll find it impossible not to dance to the rhythms when the drummers get into their stride.
oLa CatedralMILONGA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-15-5325-1630; www.lacatedralclub.com; Sarmiento 4006; bLínea B Medrano)
This grungy warehouse space is very casual, with unusual art on the walls, thrift-store furniture, dim, atmospheric lighting and the occasional cat wandering among the tables. It’s very bohemian and there’s no implied dress code – you’ll see plenty of jeans. A great place for beginners since even non-expert dancers can feel comfortable on the dance floor.
The most popular night here is Tuesday.
Esquina Carlos GardelTANGO
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4867-6363; www.esquinacarlosgardel.com.ar; Carlos Gardel 3200; show from US$96, show & dinner from US$140; bLínea B Carlos Gardel)
One of the fanciest tango shows in town plays at this impressive 430-seat theater right next to the lovely Mercado de Abasto shopping mall. This fine show highlights passionate, top-notch musicians and performers in period costumes, though a modern segment involving a skin suit is cutting-edge, athletic and memorable.
The Abasto neighborhood was once Carlos Gardel’s stomping ground, and he even hung out at this locale.
Complejo TangoTANGO
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4941-1119; www.complejotango.com.ar; Av Belgrano 2608; show US$55, dinner & show from US$125; bLínea A Plaza Miserere)
For those who wish to not only watch tango but also experience it, there’s this classy venue in Once. The first hour is a free beginners' tango lesson, which you can follow with a tasty dinner, then an excellent tango show – be warned that performers go around toward the end, picking out audience members to dance with them (usually badly).
Club GricelTANGO
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4957-7157; www.clubgriceltango.com.ar; La Rioja 1180; bLínea E General Urquiza)
This old classic in the San Cristóbal neighborhood (take a taxi) often has big crowds. It attracts an older, well-dressed, mostly local clientele – avoid Sundays if you're alone as it's mostly for couples. There’s a wonderful springy dance floor and occasionally live orchestras.
San Lorenzo de AlmagroSOCCER
( GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4918-4237; www.sanlorenzo.com.ar; Varela 2680; g143, 101)
One of Argentina's top five clubs and recent winners of the Copa Libertadores, San Lorenzo's home ground is currently in the less than salubrious area of Nueva Pompeya in the south of the city. However, plans are underway for the club to move back to its home neighborhood of Boedo soon.
Game tickets are sold at Av La Plata 1782 in Boedo and Av de Mayo 1373 in Congreso.
Esquina Homero ManziTANGO
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4957-8488; www.esquinahomeromanzi.com.ar; Av San Juan 3601; show AR$330, show & dinner from AR$550; bLínea E Boedo)
This tango venue in a remodeled old-time cafe is located right on the historic intersection of San Juan and Boedo. It has the capacity for 300 spectators and offers a decent show that's a mix of glitzy high-kicks and more traditional milonga-type dancing.
7Shopping
Villa Crespo is the place to head for discount outlet stores and some specialist leather shops, as well as shoe shops selling the wares of local designers; you'll find these shops along Aguirre and Layolo along the three blocks between Serrano and Malabia. Further east, Abasto Shopping is a large, air-conditioned mall with plenty of chain fashion and sports stores, all housed in the striking Mercado de Abasto building.
CentricoSHOES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4773-9129; www.centricocentrica.com.ar; Loyola 531; h11am-8pm Mon-Sat; bLínea B Malabia)
Leonardo Mancuso designs these handmade leather shoes with a classic, traditional styling that emphasizes simplicity over showiness. Both men's and women's shoes are available, and some have unisex looks; there are also a few ankle and knee-high boots.
2Sports & Activities
oDNI TangoDANCING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4866-6553; https://dni-tango.com/; Bulnes 1101; group class per person AR$100; bLínea B Medrano)
This excellent tango school offers group and private classes in English and Spanish for all levels. For those starting out, the Saturday afternoon práctica is a friendly place to dance with different partners without the pressure of taking to the floor at a more formal milonga. DNI is located in a beautiful old building in the neighborhood of Almagro.
AcatrazBOWLING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4982-4818; www.facebook.com/acatrazmultiespacio/; Av Rivadavia 3636; h4pm-4am Wed & Thu, to 6am Fri & Sat, to 3am Sun; bLínea A Loria)
Unusual restaurant-bar-bowling-alley-billiards-hall destination. You can do it all here; a great place to come with a group of friends. There are two bowling alleys, various pool tables, sports on TVs, plenty of tables to eat at and bars to drink at. Spread out over several floors, this place is huge and takes entertainment to a new level.
Day Trips from Buenos Aires
Tigre & the Delta
Take laid-back boat rides along the peaceful backwaters of the Paraná Delta. Interesting museums and a nearby outdoor market are pluses.
San Isidro
Enjoy spectacular river views and visit several worthwhile museums in this affluent city suburb that's steeped in history.
San Antonio de Areco
Explore this serene pampas village and its historic buildings, and perhaps visit a nearby estancia (ranch). If you're lucky, you might spot a gaucho or two.
Colonia
Located across the Río de la Plata in Uruguay, this pleasant little colonial town is lined with cobbled streets and charming old buildings.
Tigre & the Delta
Explore
The city of Tigre (35km north of Buenos Aires) and the surrounding delta region is a popular weekend getaway for weary porteños. Latte-colored waters, tinted by sediment that results from large quantities of water from South America's great rivers being forced through smaller tributaries, flow through what is the third-largest river delta in the world. Glimpse into how locals live along peaceful canals, with boats as their only transportation. All along the shorelines are signs of water-related ac
tivity, from kayaking to canoeing to sculling.
The Best…
ASight Museo de Arte Tigre
APlace to Eat Boulevard Sáenz Peña
APlace to Drink Maria Luján
Top Tip
Kayak or canoe tours are a good way to explore the peaceful back waterways of the delta. Try El Dorado Kayak or Bonanza Deltaventura.
Getting There & Away
ATrain You can take the Tigre branch of the Mitre line train (with/without SUBE AR$6/12) from Retiro (one hour) or Belgrano C (45 minutes). The most scenic way to reach Tigre is via the Tren de la Costa (%0800-222-8736; www.trendelacosta.com.ar; tickets AR$20), whose southernmost station (Maipú) is in the suburb of Olivos. The Mitre train from Retiro will take you to Maipú (get off at Mitre station at the end of the line and cross the pedestrian bridge to Maipú). You can also reach Maipú station on the 152 bus, which stops at Plaza Italia in Palermo.
Lonely Planet Buenos Aires Page 24