Livin’ ResidenceAPARTMENT$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-5258-0300; www.livinresidence.com; Viamonte 1815; studio from US$75, 1-bedroom apt US$150, 2-bedroom apt US$175; aW; bLínea D Callao)
All of these studios and one- or two-bedroom apartments have a simple, contemporary feel, with tasteful furniture, flat-screen TVs, small kitchens and balconies. There’s a tiny rooftop terrace with Jacuzzi, asado (barbecue grill) and nearby gym room. Security is good; reserve ahead.
Hotel LyonHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4372-0100; www.hotel-lyon.com.ar; Riobamba 251; s/d/tr/q US$60/80/90/110; aiW; bLínea B Callao)
If you’re a traveling family or group on a budget, consider this old-school, French-style place. The two- and three- bedroom apartments are basic and no-frills but very spacious, and all include large bathrooms and separate dining areas with fridges (but no kitchens). There are plans to build a fitness room and sauna.
Novotel HotelHOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4370-9500; www.novotel.com; Av Corrientes 1334; r from US$150; aiWsc; bLínea B Uruguay)
This large, contemporary French chain hotel is tastefully designed. Rooms are comfortable, but the highlight is out back, where a beautiful deck surrounds three pools – one for adults and two for the kids – along with a living wall of vegetation and a bar.
This Novotel is family-friendly, offering kid discounts, a playroom and Xbox rental; it's located smack in the middle of Corrientes' entertainment district.
4San Telmo
Located within walking distance of the Center and surrounded by bars and restaurants, San Telmo is a popular place to stay. Some of the city's best hostels are located here, as well as a few good guesthouses and boutique hotels.
oAmérica del SurHOSTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4300-5525; www.americahostel.com.ar; Chacabuco 718; dm from US$15, d from US$50; aiW; bLínea C Independencia)
This gorgeous boutique-like hostel – the smartest of its kind in BA – was built especially to be a hostel. Beyond reception is a fine bar area with a large wood-decked patio. Sparklingly clean dorms with four beds all have well-designed bathrooms, while private rooms are tastefully decorated and better than those at many midrange hotels. Wide range of services on offer.
Circus Hostel & HotelHOSTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4300-4983; www.hostelcircus.com; Chacabuco 1020; dm from US$13, r from US$47; aiWs; bLínea C Independencia)
From the flash lounge at the front to the wooden deck–surrounded wading pool in back, this hotel-hostel exudes hipness. Both dorms and private rooms, all small and simple, have basic furniture and their own bathrooms. There’s a pool table and slick TV area too, but no kitchen.
Art Factory HostelHOSTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4343-1463; www.artfactoryba.com.ar; Piedras 545; dm from US$17, d from US$47; aiW; bLínea E Belgrano)
Friendly and uniquely art-themed, this fine hostel offers more private rooms than most – and all feature huge murals, painted and decorated by different artists. Even the hallways and water tanks have colorful cartoonish themes, and the 1850s rambling mansion adds some charm. There's a large rooftop terrace with hammocks and separate bar-lounge area with pool table.
L'AdresseBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4307-2332; www.facebook.com/ladressehotelbuenosaires/; Bolívar 1491; r from US$75; aW; g29, 33, 159, 130)
French couple Clara and Romain spent more than three years painstakingly restoring an 1880s mansion turned run-down tenement house into this character-filled boutique hotel. The 15 rooms are simple but comfortable and lead off the house's original tiled passageways; much of the furniture was salvaged and upcycled by the owners themselves. Great bar and breakfast area, too.
Bohemia Buenos AiresHOTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4115-2561; www.bohemiabuenosaires.com.ar; Perú 845; d/tr/q from US$50/68/86; aiW; bLínea C Independencia)
With its upscale-motel feel, this good-value San Telmo hotel offers 22 simple and neat rooms, most good-sized, if a bit antiseptic with their white-tiled floors. The peaceful grassy backyard and small interior patios are a plus. Cash discount.
Lugar GayGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4300-4747; www.lugargay.com.ar; Defensa 1120; dm US$25, s US$45-60, d US$65-80; aW; g29, 24, 111)
Head up a long flight of stairs to this intimate guesthouse, where only gay men can book a stay. Just four of the eight small but elegant rooms have a private bathroom, but most have stunning views of the pretty church out back. It’s a maze of catwalks, spiral staircases and sunny terraces, plus a tango salon and a cafe.
Patios de San TelmoBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4307-0480; http://patiosdesantelmo.com.ar/; Chacabuco 752; r US$70-150; aiWs; bLínea C Independencia)
Located in an 1860 former conventillo (tenement house) is this pleasant boutique hotel with 30 spacious, elegant rooms surrounding several patios. There’s a lovely ‘library’ room decorated with artwork, a back patio with hanging basket chairs and a tiny rooftop pool with wood deck.
Mansión VitrauxBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4878-4292; www.mansionvitraux.com; Carlos Calvo 369; r from US$143-164; aiWs; bLínea C Independencia)
Almost too slick for San Telmo, this glass-fronted boutique hotel offers 12 beautiful rooms, all in different designs. All have either flat-screen or projection TV, and bathrooms have a contemporary design. The breakfast buffet is in the basement wine bar. There is also a large Jacuzzi, a sauna, an indoor pool and a slick rooftop terrace with a second pool.
Mundo BolívarBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4300-3619; www.mundobolivar.com; Bolívar 1701; studio & apt US$60-90; aW; g29)
Fourteen spacious studios and loft apartments with kitchenettes have been renovated into attractive modern spaces – some with original details such as carved doorways or painted ceilings – at this gorgeous mansion. Separate entrances join with hallways connecting through the complex, and there are lovely garden patios in which to relax. No breakfast; long-term stays available.
Scala HotelHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4343-0606; www.scalahotelbuenosaires.com; Bernardo de Irigoyen 740; d US$80-150; aiW; bLínea C Independencia)
A grand lobby awaits you at this business-oriented, four-star hotel. All rooms are lovely and spacious; standard ones have wooden floors, while higher categories come with carpets and sitting rooms. Some have views of Av 9 de Julio. There's a pleasant, large patio in back that's good for kids, plus a gym, restaurant and two business salons.
4Retiro
Retiro is a great, central place to be, if you can afford it – many of BA’s most expensive hotels, along with some of its richest inhabitants, are settled in here. Close by are leafy Plaza San Martín, the Retiro train and bus stations, and many upscale stores and business services.
Hotel Tres SargentosHOTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4312-6082; www.hotel3sargentos.com.ar; Tres Sargentos 345; s/d/tr US$45/52/65; aW; bLínea C San Martín)
A good deal for the location, this simple budget hotel has an interesting history – author Julio Cortázar once stayed here. The carpets are a bit worn but the plainly decorated rooms are comfortable enough. Some rooms higher up and facing out even offer a bit of a view. Five-person apartment available.
oCasa CalmaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4312-5000; www.casacalmahotel.com.ar; Suipacha 1015; r from US$200; aiW; bLínea C San Martín)S
Hidden behind a living wall of greenery is this ecoconscious hideaway in central BA. The 17 rooms are pristine and relaxing with Jacuzzi baths and a serene ambience; some have small balconies. Yoga mats and bamboo bikes available; discount without breakfast.
Hotel PulitzerBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4316-0800; www.hotelpulitzer.com.ar; Maipú 907; r from US$150; aiWs; bLínea C San Martín)
In a good location, this sleek boutique hotel ha
s a contemporary lobby with minimalist decor. Rooms are spacious and stylish with great monochrome bathrooms and plenty of design touches; some have a balcony. The highlight is the beautiful rooftop terrace with attached bar offering great views over the city.
4Recoleta & Barrio Norte
Most of the accommodations in Recoleta and Barrio Norte are expensive; what cheap hotels there are tend to be full much of the time. Buildings here are grand and beautiful, befitting the city’s richest barrio, and you’ll be close to Recoleta’s famous cemetery, along with its lovely parks, museums and boutiques.
Hotel Lion D’orHOTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4803-8992; www.hotel-liondor.com.ar; Pacheco de Melo 2019; s/d/tr from US$35/45/63; aW; bLínea D Pueyrredón)
These digs have their charm (it’s an old embassy), but rooms vary widely – some are small, basic and dark, while others are grand. Despite some rough edges, all are good value and most have been modernized for comfort. The old marble staircase and elevator are fabulous, and there’s a nice rooftop area. Air-con costs extra; breakfast not included.
Petit Recoleta HostelHOSTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4823-3848; www.petitrecoleta.com; José Uriburu 1183; dm US$14-16, s from US$28, d from US$35; aiW; bLínea D Facultad de Medicina)
This hostel is comfortable enough and in a good location. It's in an old building that has character but is showing its age in places, though the communal areas – which include an interior patio, TV room, kitchen and pool-table area – are fine. There are two dorms, one for men and one for women. Only two rooms have air-con.
Ayres de RecoletaAPARTMENT$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4801-0505; www.ayresderecoleta.com; José Uriburu 1756; studios from US$120; aiWs; bLínea H Las Heras)
The studio apartments here all come with king-size beds or two twins and are spacious and well-equipped, though the deco is a little dull. There are also simple kitchenettes with fridges and microwaves, plus a small pool. And the location can’t be beat – you’re a block from Recoleta cemetery. A good option for families. Breakfast served on request.
oPoetry BuildingAPARTMENT$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4827-2772; www.poetrybuilding.com; Junín 1280; apt US$280-390; aWsc; bLínea D Pueyrredón)
These gorgeous studios and one-bedroom apartments are perfect for families. Each one is different, eclectically decorated with reproduction antique furniture, and all come with plenty of mod cons and a fully equipped kitchen (stocked with groceries on request). Some apartments have a private outdoor balcony or patio, but there’s also a beautiful common terrace with soaking pool.
Best of all is the rooftop vegetable garden, where guests can help themselves to homegrown kale, hot peppers, chard, beans and tomatoes.
Alvear Palace HotelHOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4808-2100; www.alvearpalace.com; Av Alvear 1891; r from US$620; aiWs; g130, 93, 62)
The classiest, most traditional hotel in BA oozes old-world sophistication and has the service and all the facilities you would expect of a five-star hotel, with in-room luxuries such as Hermès toiletries and Egyptian-cotton bed sheets. The recently added top-floor suites have stunning views across Recoleta to the river; the new roof garden and indoor pool are equally impressive.
There’s also an excellent restaurant, wine-tasting room, elegant tea room, champagne bar and fine spa.
Four SeasonsHOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4321-1200; www.fourseasons.com/buenosaires; Posadas 1086; d from US$770; aiWs; g130, 62, 93)
No surprise here – the Four Seasons offers all the perks that define a five-star hotel, such as free-standing bathtubs facing TVs hidden in the bathroom mirror. Rooms are spacious with contemporary furnishings and views of Av 9 de Julio; the finest suites are located in an old mansion next door (go for the presidential – it's US$10,000 per night).
There's also a gorgeous spa, an outdoor heated swimming pool and a top-notch restaurant.
Palacio Duhau – Park HyattHOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-5171-1234; www.buenosaires.park.hyatt.com; Av Alvear 1661; d from US$675; aiWs; g130, 111, 62)
If it's good enough for presidents, diplomats and Tom Cruise, it's good enough for us. The luxurious Park Hyatt takes up a city block and consists of two wings, including the Palacio Duhau, a renovated mansion with a separate reception. There's a gorgeous terraced garden with fountains and patios, plus a fine spa, indoor pool, classy bar and art gallery.
Art SuitesAPARTMENT$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4821-6800; www.artsuites.com.ar; Azcuénaga 1465; 1- & 2-bedroom apt US$250-290; aW; bLínea D Pueyrredón)
The 15 luxurious, modern and spacious apartments here are all bright, with minimalist decor, full kitchens or kitchenettes, sunny balconies and slick, hip furniture. Windows are double-paned, staff speak English and security is excellent. Long-term discounts are available; reserve ahead. An annex offers more apartments.
4Belgrano, Nuñez & the Costanera Norte
Most areas of the residential northern neighborhoods of Belgrano and Nuñez are too far from BA's main sights in the Center, San Telmo and Recoleta to hold much of an appeal as a place to stay, and they are light on accommodations options. The exception is the area of Belgrano around busy Av Cabildo, where the Subte Línea D provides easy access to the Center. The Costanera Norte has no houses, let alone hotels, so forget about looking for a bed around here.
Pampa HostelHOSTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4544-2273; www.hostelpampa.com; Iberá 2858; dm/s/d/tr with shared bath from US$12/45/55/63; aW; bLínea D Congreso de Tucumán)
This colorful hostel in a traditional chorizo-style house (a long sausage-like building in which the bedrooms open onto patio corridors) is located in a residential part of Belgrano. Pluses include the sunny roof terrace and guest kitchen. Special rates for stays of one month or longer. Some rooms have air-con and private bathrooms.
4Palermo
About a 20-minute taxi ride from the city center (and also well connected by bus and Subte lines), Palermo is the top choice for many travelers. Not only is it full of extensive parklands – which are great for weekend jaunts and sporting activities – but you’ll have heaps of cutting-edge restaurants, designer boutiques and dance clubs at your door. Most of these places are located in the extensive sub-neighborhoods of Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood.
oReina Madre HostelHOSTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4962-5553; www.rmhostel.com; Av Anchorena 1118; dm US$15-20, s/d US$40/44; aiW; bLínea D Pueyrredón)
This wonderful hostel is clean, safe and well run. It’s in an old building that has plenty of personality, with high ceilings and original tiles, and all rooms are comfortable (and share bathrooms). There’s a cozy living room and small kitchen, plus lots of dining tables, but the highlight is the wooden-deck rooftop with parrilla. Pet cat on premises.
oPalermo Viejo B&BGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4773-6012; www.palermoviejobb.com; Niceto Vega 4629; s US$55, d US$60-75, tr US$85; aiW; g140)
This friendly B&B is located in a remodeled casa chorizo (a long, narrow 'sausage house') dating from 1901, that was once the owner's father's clothes factory. The six rooms all front a leafy outdoor patio and are decorated with local artwork; two have lofts. All come with a fridge and a good breakfast. Call ahead.
Rugantino HotelGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-6379-5113; www.rugantinohotelboutique.com; Uriarte 1844; r US$50-85; aiW; bLínea D Palermo)
This intimate, homey guesthouse is located in a 1920s building and run by an Italian family. Various terraces and catwalks connect the seven simple rooms, all decked out in hardwood floors and modern styling, combined with a few antiques. The climbing vine and greenery in the small central courtyard is soothing, and you can expect espresso for breakfast. Reserve ahead.
Art Factory PalermoHOSTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-2004-4958; www.artfactorypalermo.com.ar; Costa Rica 4353; dm US$11-
15, r with shared/private bath US$57/67; aiW; bLínea D Scalabrini Ortiz)
This decent, no-frills hostel is well located close to Palermo's restaurants and nightlife. Like its sister hostel in San Telmo, it’s in an old house and decorated with artsy murals and stencils. There’s a small kitchen, ping-pong table and living room area, and a limited number of bathrooms – so their use can get tight.
Eco Pampa HostelHOSTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4831-2435; www.hostelpampa.com.ar; Guatemala 4778; dm US$13-17, s/d US$46/60; iW; bLínea D Plaza Italia)S
Buenos Aires’ first ‘green’ hostel is this casual spot sporting vintage and recycled furniture, low-energy light bulbs and a recycling system. The rooftop is home to a small veggie garden, compost pile and solar panels. Dorms are a good size and each of the eight private rooms comes with bathroom and flat-screen TV (most have air-con). Also has a kitchen.
Mansilla 3935 B&BB&B$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4833-3821; www.mansilla3935.com; Mansilla 3935; s/d US$35/50; aiW; bLínea D Scalabrini Ortiz)
Family-run B&B in a homey, darkish house, offering a great deal. Each of the six simple rooms comes with its own bathroom. Ceilings are high, and a few tiny patios add charm.
Lonely Planet Buenos Aires Page 28