Lonely Planet Buenos Aires
Page 33
The late Benito Quinquela Martín, who put the working-class barrio of La Boca on the artistic map, painted brightly colored oils of life in the factories and on the waterfront. Xul Solar, a multitalented phenomenon who was a good friend of Jorge Luis Borges, painted busy, Klee-inspired dreamscapes. The former homes of both Quinquela and Solar are now museums showcasing their work.
Discover the art world of Buenos Aires during the Arte BA ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.arteba.org; hMay) festival and the annual Noche de los Museos (Night of the Museums).
Architectural History
Little trace remains of the modest one-story adobe houses that sprang up along the mouth of the Riachuelo following the second founding of Buenos Aires in 1580. Many of them were occupied by traffickers of contraband, as the Spanish crown forbade any direct export or import of goods from the settlement. For an idea of how BA’s first settlements used to be, visit El Zanjón de Granados in San Telmo.
Buenos Aires’ Cabildo is a fair example of colonial architecture, although its once plaza-spanning colonnades were severely clipped by the construction of Av de Mayo and the diagonals feeding into it. Most of the other survivors from the colonial era are churches. In Plaza de Mayo, the Catedral Metropolitana was begun in 1752 but not finished until 1852, by which time it had acquired its rather secular-looking neoclassicist facade.
Many examples of post-independence architecture (built after 1810) can be found in the barrios of San Telmo and Montserrat. San Telmo also holds a wide variety of vernacular architecture such as casas chorizos (sausage houses) – so called for their long, narrow shape (some have a 2m frontage on the street). The perfect example is Casa Mínima (at San Lorenzo 380).
In the latter half of the 19th century, as Argentina’s agricultural exports soared, a lot of money accumulated in Buenos Aires. Wealth was demonstrated with the construction of elaborate mansions, public buildings and wide Parisian-style boulevards. In the first few decades of the boom, buildings were constructed mostly in Italianate style, but toward the end of the 19th century a French influence began to exert itself. Mansard roofs and other elements gave a Parisian look to parts of the city, and by the beginning of the 20th century art nouveau was all the rage.
Among the highlights of the building boom’s first five decades is the presidential palace, the Casa Rosada, created in 1882 by joining a new wing to the existing post office. Others include the showpiece Teatro Colón, the magnificent Palacio de las Aguas Corrientes and the imposing Palacio del Congreso.
The 1920s saw the arrival of the skyscraper, in the form of the 100m-high, 22-story Palacio Barolo. This building was the tallest in Argentina (and one of the tallest in South America) from its opening in 1923 until the completion of the 30-story art-deco Edificio Kavanagh in 1936. The Kavanagh, when finished, was the largest concrete building in the world and remains an impressive piece of architecture.
Buenos Aires continued to grow during Juan Perón’s spell in power (1946 to 1955), during which time utilitarian housing and office blocks were built. Bucking the trend were such oddball buildings as the Banco de Londres on Reconquista, designed in 1959 by Clorindo Testa. The bank was finished by 1966, but Testa’s brutalist Biblioteca Nacional – which must’ve looked pretty groovy to him on the drawing board in 1962 – was dated by the time it opened (following many delays) in 1992.
A heartening trend of ‘architectural recycling’ took off in Buenos Aires in the latter 20th century and continues today, helping to preserve the city’s glorious old structures. Grand old buildings have been remodeled (and sometimes augmented) to become luxury hotels, museums and cultural centers; notable examples include the Centro Cultural Kirchner, which used to be the city's main post office, and the Usina del Arte, a concert hall that used to be an old electricity factory. Old markets have also been restored to their original glory to live again as popular shopping malls, such as the Mercado de Abasto and Galerías Pacífico.
Palacio Barolo, Congreso & Tribunales | SAIKO3P / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Street art – which is not illegal in Buenos Aires – has become more and more prominent in neighborhoods such as Barracas, San Telmo, La Boca, Colegiales and Palermo. Colorful murals, political stencils and graffiti-inspired creations cover public and private walls, sometimes commissioned by the city and property owners.
Modern Architecture
The first decade of the 21st century has seen an increasingly modern skyline develop in Buenos Aires. Soaring structures of glass and steel tower above earlier efforts, many innovative and quite striking, such as the Edificio República in Buenos Aires' downtown. It was designed by César Pelli, who also did Kuala Lumpur’s Petronas Towers.
The renovation of Puerto Madero turned dilapidated brick warehouses into offices, upscale restaurants and exclusive lofts. Contrasting with these charming low, long buildings is one of the city’s tallest structures, the 170m-high Torres El Faro, standing at the eastern section of Puerto Madero. It’s a pair of joined towers that now house fancy apartments. Other architectural gems here include Calatrava’s Puente de la Mujer and the glass-domed Museo Fortabat by Uruguayan-born architect Rafael Viñoli.
Puente de la Mujer, Puerto Madero | SAIKO3P / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Transportation
Arriving in Buenos Aires
Getting Around Buenos Aires
Tours
Transportation
Arriving in Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires is well connected by air, with direct international flights to cities all over the world including New York, Miami, London, Madrid, Frankfurt, Amsterdam and Auckland, as well as most major cities within South America.
If you are traveling overland, you'll most likely arrive by bus at Retiro bus station, from where long-distance buses depart for destinations across Argentina as well as Chile and Paraguay.
A small number of infrequent trains link the capital with Rosario, Córdoba, Tucumán, Bahía Blanca, Tandil and Mar del Plata. Tickets are cheap but often sell out well in advance.
Ferries link Buenos Aires with Colonia and Montevideo in Uruguay.
Flights, cars and tours can be booked online at lonelyplanet.com/bookings.
CLIMATE CHANGE & TRAVEL
Every form of transport that relies on carbon-based fuel generates CO2, the main cause of human-induced climate change. Modern travel is dependent on aeroplanes, which might use less fuel per kilometer per person than most cars but travel much greater distances. The altitude at which aircraft emit gases (including CO2) and particles also contributes to their climate change impact. Many websites offer ‘carbon calculators’ that allow people to estimate the carbon emissions generated by their journey and, for those who wish to do so, to offset the impact of the greenhouse gases emitted with contributions to portfolios of climate-friendly initiatives throughout the world. Lonely Planet offsets the carbon footprint of all staff and author travel.
Ezeiza Airport
Most international flights arrive at Buenos Aires’ Aeropuerto Internacional Ministro Pistarini (Ezeiza; GOOGLE MAP ; %011-5480-6111; www.aa2000.com.ar), about 35km south of the Center. Ezeiza is a modern airport with ATMs, restaurants, a pharmacy, duty-free shops and a small post office ( GOOGLE MAP ; Ezeiza Airport; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat).
Airport Shuttle
If you’re traveling alone, the best option is to catch a shuttle with a transfer company such as Manuel Tienda León. You’ll see its stand immediately as you exit customs, in the transport ‘lobby’ area. Frequent shuttles cost AR$190 per person to the Center, run all day and night, and take 40 to 60 minutes, depending on traffic. They’ll deposit you at the MTL office in Retiro (from where you can take a taxi).
Another shuttle service, directed at independent travelers, is Hostel Shuttle (%011-4511-8723; www.hostelshuttle.com.ar; US$13). Check the website for schedules and drop-off destinations (only at certain hostels), and try to book ahead.
Taxi
To catch a taxi, go past the transport ‘lobby’ area immediately o
utside customs, walk past the taxi touts, and you’ll see the freestanding city taxi stand (with a blue sign saying Taxi Ezeiza ( GOOGLE MAP ; %011-5480-0066; www.taxiezeiza.com.ar; from Ezeiza to Center one-way AR$630; h24hr)).
Chauffeur-Driven Car
For a special treat, reserve a luxury car from Silver Star Transport (%in Argentina 011-15-6826-8876, in the USA 214-502-1605; www.silverstarcar.com); you’ll be driven by native English speakers to the destination of your choice.
EZEIZA ARRIVAL & DEPARTURE TIPS
AAustralian and Canadian passport holders have to pay a reciprocity fee before arriving in Argentina; ideally you'll be reminded of this when you buy your plane ticket. You'll need to pay this fee online with a credit card before arriving in Argentina; see www.migraciones.gov.ar/accesibleingles and click on 'tourism fees.' These fees are US$100 for Australians (good for one year) and US$92 for Canadians (multiple entry). In 2016 President Macri revoked the reciprocity fees for US citizens.
AThere’s a tourist information booth ( GOOGLE MAP ; %011-5480-6111; Terminal A arrivals, 1st fl, Ezeiza airport; h24hr) just beyond the city's Taxi Ezeiza stand.
AWhen departing Buenos Aires, get to Ezeiza at least two to three hours before your international flight out; security and immigration lines can be long. And be aware that traffic is often bad getting to Ezeiza; it can take an hour or more.
Aeroparque Airport
Most domestic flights arrive at Aeroparque airport ( GOOGLE MAP ; %011-5480-6111; www.aa2000.com.ar; Av Rafael Obligado; g33, 45), a short distance from downtown Buenos Aires.
Bus
Manuel Tienda León does hourly transfers from Ezeiza to Aeroparque. To get from Aeroparque to the Center, take public bus 33 or 45 (don’t cross the street; take them going south); you'll need a loaded SUBE transport card, though, as the buses no longer accept cash.
Taxi
A taxi to the Center costs around AR$160.
Boat
There’s a regular ferry service to and from Colonia and Montevideo, both in Uruguay. Buquebus and Seacat ferries leave from the same terminal in Puerto Madero. The terminal is a 15-minute walk from Alem Subte station on Línea B.
Colonia Express is the cheapest company but has limited departures; its terminal is in an industrial neighborhood near La Boca; take a taxi. Book online in advance for the best prices.
Bus
Buenos Aires' modern Retiro bus terminal is 400m long and has bays for 75 buses. The bottom floor is for cargo shipments and luggage storage, the top for purchasing tickets, and the middle for everything else.
There’s an information booth ( GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4310-0700; h24hr) that provides general bus information and schedules, plus a tourist office ( GOOGLE MAP ; Retiro Bus Station; h9am-6pm; bLínea C Retiro) near Puente 3 on the main floor, on the same level as bus bay 36. Other services include ATMs, telephone offices (some with internet access), cafes and many small stores. There's also a booth where you can buy a SUBE card.
You can buy a ticket to practically anywhere in Argentina and departures are fairly frequent to the most popular destinations. You can buy tickets online using the booking services Omnilíneas (%0810-999-0210; www.omnilineas.com; h9am-9pm Mon-Sat, 11am-7pm Sun) or Plataforma 10 (www.plataforma10.com.ar), or from the bus company's website (depending on your route).
Transport Options
Retiro is connected to the local bus system, but you'll need a SUBE card to use it. There's also a nearby Subte station (Retiro, on Línea C). To find out the best public-transport options check http://comollego.ba.gob.ar.
Be careful wandering around looking lost with your phone out in and around the bus station, as this area is a hot spot for petty crime.
Various remise (call-taxi) booths are also available; the one near bay 54 is open 24 hours. If you're arriving into Buenos Aires at night this is your best transport option.
Train
There is a limited train service connecting Buenos Aires with nearby provinces. Book ahead; tickets often sell out in advance.
ATigre, Rosario, Córdoba and Tucumán are served by Línea Mitre (%0800-222-8736; www.sofse.gob.ar) trains from Retiro.
AThe southern suburbs and La Plata are served by Línea Roca (%0800-222-8736; www.sofse.gob.ar) trains from Constitución.
ABahía Blanca, Tandil and Mar del Plata are served by Ferrobaires (%011-4304-0028; www.ferrobaires.gba.gov.ar) trains from Constitución.
AThe southwestern suburbs and Luján are served by Línea Sarmiento (%0800-222-8736; www.sofse.gob.ar) trains from Once.
Take Subte Línea C to Retiro and Constitución and Línea A to Plaza Miserere for Once.
Getting Around Buenos Aires
Subte (Underground)
BA’s Subte opened in 1913 and is the quickest way to get around the city, though it can get mighty hot and crowded during rush hour. It consists of líneas (lines) A, B, C, D, E and H. Four parallel lines run from downtown to the capital’s western outskirts, while Línea C runs north–south and connects the two major train stations of Retiro and Constitución. Línea H runs from Las Heras south to Hospitales, with plans to expand it.
To use the Subte you'll need a SUBE card. The best place to get one of these cards is at any of the city tourist booths; bring your passport. Each journey costs AR$7.50.
Trains operate from 5am to around 10:30pm Monday to Saturday and 8am to around 10pm on Sundays and holidays, so don’t rely on the Subte to get you home after dinner. Service is frequent on weekdays; on weekends you’ll wait longer. At some stations platforms are on opposite sides, so be sure of your direction before passing through the turnstiles.
SUBE CARD
ATo use BA's public-transport system, you'll need a SUBE card (%0800-777-7823; www.sube.gob.ar); it's no longer possible to pay for buses with cash.
APurchase one at any of the city tourist information booths, some kioskos and Correo Argentino or OCA post offices around the city; check the website for locations or look for the SUBE logo at businesses.
AEzeiza airport and Retiro bus station also have SUBE booths where you can purchase and recharge this card.
ATo purchase a SUBE card, you’ll need your passport or a copy of it.
ACharging the card itself is easy, and can be done at many kiosks or Subte stations.
Bus
Buenos Aires has a huge and complex bus system. Luckily the city government has set up the website Como Llego (http://comollego.ba.gob.ar) to help you plot your journey; there's also a free app you can download to your smartphone.
To use the buses, you must have a SUBE card (coins are no longer accepted). The best place to get one of these cards is at any of the city tourist booths; bring your passport.
Most bus routes (but not all) run 24 hours; there are fewer buses at night. Seats up front are offered to the elderly, pregnant women and those with young children.
HANDY BUS ROUTES
Route Bus
Microcentro to Palermo Viejo 111
Microcentro to Plaza Italia (in Palermo) 29, 59, 64
Once to Plaza de Mayo to La Boca 64
Plaza de Mayo to Ezeiza airport (placard says ‘Ezeiza’) 8
Plaza Italia to Microcentro to San Telmo 29
Plaza Italia to La Boca via Retiro & Plaza de Mayo 152, 29
Plaza Italia to Recoleta to Microcentro to Constitución 59
Plaza San Martín to Aeroparque airport 33, 45
Recoleta to Congreso to San Telmo to La Boca 39
Retiro to Plaza de Mayo to San Telmo 22
WATCH THAT POCKET!
When traveling on BA’s crowded bus or Subte lines, watch for pickpockets. They can be well dressed, men or women, often with a coat slung over their arm to hide nefarious activities going on near your bag or pocket. Occasionally there are several of them, working as a team, and they’ll try to shove or distract you. The best thing to do is not look like a tourist, keep your wallet well ensconced in your front pocket, wedge your purse under your arm and wear your backpack in front – li
ke the locals do. Don’t make yourself an easy target and they’ll move on – and you might not even notice they exist.
Taxi
The city's numerous (about 40,000) and relatively inexpensive taxis are conspicuous by their black-and-yellow paint jobs. They click every 200m (or every minute of waiting time) and cost 20% more after 6pm. Make sure that the meter’s set to the current price when you start your ride. Drivers do not expect a big tip, but it’s customary to let them keep small change. Taxis looking for passengers will have a red light lit on the upper right corner of their windshield.
Most cab drivers are honest workers making a living, but there are a few bad apples in the bunch. Try to have an idea of where you’re going or you might be taking the ‘scenic’ route (though also be aware there are many one-way streets in BA, and your route to one place may be quite different on the way back).
Finally, make an attempt to snag an ‘official’ taxi. These are usually marked by a roof light and license number printed on the doors; the words radio taxi are usually a good sign. Official drivers must display their license on the back of their seat or dashboard.