Big Dead Place

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by Nicholas Johnson


  Skylab—lounge and band room at South Pole

  Southern—Southern Exposure, McMurdo’s smoking bar

  SPAWAR—Space and Naval Warfare Systems Command. Provides air traffic control, meteorological forecasts, and airfield ground electronics maintenance for the USAP.

  Spryte—One-compartment tracked vehicle; a field camp workhorse

  SSC—Science Support Center, administrative hub of science support operations

  Summer Camp—Array of Jamesways used for accommodations at Pole in the summer only

  Terra Bus—Personnel transport vehicle, almost 50 feet long with room for about 56 passengers

  Toasty—Mentally dulled from too much time on the ice

  Triwall—Large reinforced-cardboard box used for cargo and for trash disposal

  T-Site—Hub of radio transmission in McMurdo

  U-barrel—urine barrel (either the barrel itself or the outhouse built over it)

  Upper Case Dorms—Most desirable dorms, with one bathroom per two rooms and a sink in each large room

  USAP—United States Antarctic Program

  UT—Utility Technician; maintains heaters, furnaces, washers and dryers, and other appliances

  Vermiculite—a flaky, absorbent mineral used to pack chemicals for shipment

  Willy—Williams Airfield, a runway for ski-equipped aircraft

  Winfly—winter fly-in, from August to October

  Winter—season from February to October

  Winter-overs—winter residents of the stations

  Winter Quarters Bay—bay that separates McMurdo Station from Hut Point

  BIBLIOGRAPHY

  AECOM Technology Corporation. Final Asbestos Survey Report for McMurdo Station and Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station, Antarctica, Vol. 1. ATC, May 29, 1992.

  Aldridge, Don. The Rescue of Captain Scott. Tuckwell Press, 1999.

  Amundsen, Roald. Belgica Diary: The first scientific expedtion to the Antarctic. Bluntisham Books/ Erskine Press, 1999.

  Anonymous. The Semi-Basement News, Vol. 2. June 19, 1991. [A McMurdo newsletter.]

  Associated Press. “FBI agents, mediator sent to Antarctic bases: Visitors to probe assault, staff dispute.” The Atlanta Journal/The Atlanta Constitution, Oct. 14, 1996.

  Ayres, Philip J. Mawson: A Life. Melbourne University Press, 1999.

  Bara, Michael and Richard C. Hoagland. “What is Happening at the South Pole?” The Enterprise Mission, retrieved May, 2001 from http://www.enterprisemission.com/antarctica.htm

  Behrendt, John C. Innocents on the Ice: A Memoir of Antarctic Exploration, 1957. University Press of Colorado, 1998.

  Bickel, Lennard. Shackleton’s Forgotten Argonauts. The Macmillan Company of Australia Pty Ltd., 1982. Bickel, Lennard. This Accursed Land. The MacMillan Company of Australia, 1977.

  Blass, Thomas, ed. Obedience to Authority: Current Perspectives on the Milgram Paradigm. Lawrence Erlbaum Associates, Inc., 2000.

  Burke, David. Moments of Terror. New South Wales University Press, 1994.

  Campbell, Victor. The Wicked Mate: The Antarctic Diary of Victor Campbell. Bluntisham Books and Erskine Press, 1988.

  Carter, Paul A. Little America: Town at the End of the World. Columbia University Press, 1979.

  Charles Wilkes v. Samuel Dinsman. 48 U.S. 89, US Supreme Court, 1849. Online, LexisNexis Academic.

  Chipman, Elizabeth. Women on the Ice: A History of Women in the Far South. Melbourne University Press, 1986.

  CIA, Polar Regions Atlas. National Foreign Assessment Center, 1978.

  Crawford, Janet. That First Antarctic Winter: The Story of the Southern Cross Expedition of 1898-1900 as told in the diaries of Louis Charles Bernacchi. South Latitude Research Limited, 1998.

  Darby, Andrew. “Cold Comfort from Skies for Polar Woman.” Sydney Morning Herald, July 12, 1999. Davidson, Keay. “Big U.S. outpost is icy trash dump.” San Francisco Examiner, Jan. 10, 1989.

  ——. “Journey to the end of the Earth.” San Francisco Examiner, Jan. 8, 1989.

  Didion, Joan. “Insider Baseball” from Political Fictions. Alfred A. Knopf, 2001.

  Erb, Dr. Karl. Testimony Before the House Committee on Science, Subcommitte on Basic Research. June 9, 1999.

  Fiennes, Ranulph. Mind Over Matter. Delacorte Press, 1993.

  Fox, Robert. Antarctica and the South Atlantic: Discovery, Development and Dispute. British Broadcasting Corporation, 1985.

  Frazier, Commander Paul W. Antarctic Assault. Dodd, Mead and Company, 1958.

  Gardyasz, Joe. “North Dakota native among Antarctic firefighters sick from fumes.” Bismarck Tribune, June 4, 2001.

  Gore, Al. “Postcard Antarctica: Unbearable Whiteness.” The New Republic, Dec. 26, 1988.

  Gurney, Alan. Below the Convergence: Voyages Toward Antarctica 1699-1839. W.W. Norton and Company, 1997.

  Guy, Michael. White Out!: Michael Guy’s true account of Air New Zealand’s DC-10 crash on Mount Erebus. Alister Taylor Publishing Limited, 1980.

  Hathaway, S.R. and J.C. McKinley. Minnesota Multiphasic Personality Inventory ~2. University of Minnesota Press, 1989.

  Hoare, Michael E., ed. The Resolution Journal of Johann Reinhold Forster 1772-1775. The Hakluyt Society, 1982.

  Hornblower, Margot. “At the Bottom of the World, Unremitting Cabin Fever.” Washington Post, Feb. 4, 1981.

  Hotz, Robert Lee. “Last Journey To The Last Place On Earth: At the South Pole, Nothing Can Grow Except the Spirit.” Los Angeles Times, July 8, 2001.

  Huntford, Roland. The Last Place on Earth. Atheneum, 1985.

  Huntford, Roland. Shackleton. Carroll and Graf Publishers, 1985.

  Hutchinson, William. “On the Sea Scurvy.” A Treatise on Naval Architecture. T. Billinge, 1794.

  University of California Riverside. “Judges on Trial in NSF-Funded Project at UCR.” June 12, 2000, from http://www.ucr.edu/SubPages/2CurNewsFold/UnivRelat/cranor.html

  Law, Philip. Antarctic Odyssey. William Heinemann Australia, 1983.

  Lennhoff, Eugen. The Freemasons: The History, Nature, Development and Secret of the Royal Art. Lewis Masonic Books, 1994.

  “Lifeline to Antarctica.” CBS, July 8, 1999. [CBS website]

  Mawson’s Antarctic Diaries. University of Adelaide, 1988.

  McMahon, Patrick. “Emergency Flight Heads for Coldest of Winters.” USA Today, July 9, 1999.

  Milgram, Stanley. Obedience to Authority. Pinter and Martin Ltd., 1997.

  Mohsberg, Margot. “Smooth Landing.” The Capital, Nov. 26, 1999.

  Nansen, Fridtjof. To the Ends of the Earth. HarperCollins UK, 2002.

  National Science Foundation. External Panel Report. NSF, 1997.

  National Science Foundation. Safety in Antarctica: Report of the USAP Safety Review Panel. Publication no. NSF 88-78, 1988.

  National Science Foundation. http://www.nsf.gov

  NASA/NSF. Use of Antarctic Analogs to Support the Space Exploration Initiative. NASA/NSF, 1990.

  “A New Bounty and Its New Demands.” Affiliates Meeting: American Association for the Advancement of Science, Feb. 13, 1998.

  Nordwall, Bruce D. “Aviation on Ice Unlocks Antarctica.” Aviation Week and Space Technology, May 25, 1998.

  Palinkas, Lawrence A. On the Ice: Individual and Group Adaptation in Antarctica. University of California, 2000.

  Philips, Eric. Icetrek: The Bitter Journey to the South Pole by Peter Hillary, Jon Muir and Eric Philips. HarperCollins, 2000.

  Piatigorsky, Alexander. Who’s Afraid of Freemasons?: The Phenomenon of Freemasonry. The Harvill Press, 1997.

  Poulter, Thomas C. The Winter Night Trip to Advance Base: Byrd Antarctic Expedition II 1933-35. 1973. [Typed notes and memos, bound with tape in Canterbury Museum Library, Christchurch, New Zealand.]

  Preisler, Jerome. Cold War. Penguin Books, 2001.

  Raytheon Company. Ethics: Your Integrity, Raytheon’s Reputation. Raytheon Company, 2000. [brochure]

  Raytheon Polar Services Company. http://www.polar.org

 
Reader’s Digest Services. Antarctica: Great Stories from the Frozen Continent. Reader’s Digest, 1985. Rodgers, Eugene. Beyond the Barrier: The Story of Byrd’s First Expedition to Antarctica. Naval Institute Press, 1990.

  Ronne, Captain Finn. Antarctica, My Destiny. Hastings House Publishers, 1979.

  ——. Antarctic Command. The Bobbs-Merrill Company, Inc., 1961.

  Rose, Lisle A. Assault on Eternity: Richard E. Byrd and the Exploration of Antarctica 1946-47. Naval Institute Press, 1980.

  Roylance, Frank D. “Mercy flight heads to end of the Earth.” Baltimore Sun, July 8, 1999.

  “Senators at the South Pole.” The Washington Post, Jan. 19, 1998.

  Siple, Paul. 90° South: The Story of the American South Pole Conquest. G.P. Putnam’s Sons, 1959.

  ——. A Boy Scout with Byrd. GP Putnam’s Sons, 1931.

  Sullivan, Walter. Assault on the Unknown. Hodder and Stoughton Ltd., 1961.

  Taylor, A.J.W. and A.G. Frazer. Psychological Sequelae of Operation Overdue Following the DC10 Aircrash in Antarctica. No publisher or publishing date listed. Latest reference in text is 1980.

  USAP Participant Guide, 1998-2000 Edition. National Science Foundation. Publication no. NSF 98-117.

  Verrengia, Joseph B. “Budget Thaw in Antarctica.” Rocky Mountain News, May 12, 1996.

  Wells, H.G. A Short History of the World. Penguin Books, 1953.

  World Health Organization. Selection of Personnel to Work in Circumpolar Regions, WHO Regional Office for Europe, 1984.

  ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

  Without exception, my crew supervisors in McMurdo have been excellent bosses and a pleasure to work for. So, first thanks go to Lester Bracey, Bob Radke, Bill Poulson, Susie Heyob, and James “Wheel” Mickelson.

  There are many people whose keen eyes and thoughtfulness have contributed valuable details to what otherwise would have been vague and uninteresting anecdotes. Though it’s impossible to recognize all those whose conversations and expertise I’ve relied upon, I’m particularly fortunate to have known Robert Zimmerman, David Zimmerman, Doug Wing, Jeff Truelove, Chris Teske, Slim, Liesl Schernthanner, Jeff Ryan, Scott Phillips, Randy Noring, Alex Morris, Rick Monce, Jessica Manuel, Sue Long, Michiel Lofton, Libor, Rob LaBarre, Chris Kugelman, Stephanie Koetzle, Susan Kaspari, Brandon Holton, Peter Hobbes, John Hatcher, Dale-Lynn Gardner, Ted Dettmar, Nelson Corcoran, Jay Cairns, Tony Buchanan, Wilson Blake, and Deb Baldwin.

  It would be an insidious oversight not to recognize Keros Johnson, who is the funniest person I’ve known on this rock, and a goddamn rock in the worst of winters.

  Roren Stowell is a phenomenal critic though he’s never written a word.

  James Penkusky is a sick dog best shot on sight.

  Nearby, Brad Johnson should be strung up by his balls.

  As Jake Speed dances a merry dance.

  And Kathy Blumm shows up just in time to peddle extra rope and ammo.

  The librarians at the Canterbury Museum Library in Christchurch many times went out of their way to assist me in finding obscure materials.

  For commenting on the first draft of this book, I’m grateful to Sara Lorimer, Dylan Sisson, and Dagwood Heinrich Ludwig Reeves, whose suggestions were either ignored or implemented, and in both cases were invaluable.

  More than anyone, it is Jason Anthony who has added to my understanding of this book. We were roommates in Christchurch during the year-long period in which it was written. In some strange marriage we sat writing in our own rooms all day and emerged in the evenings to drink wine and eat fine New Zealand cheeses and discuss Richard Byrd’s turds and Antarctica’s capacity as a mirror for our culture while outside our window the Kiwi “boy racers” screamed down Worcester Street in their extravagant neon-lit rice burners and gentlemen in white suits flocked to the lawn-bowling club across the street. One day our neighbors beyond our wall, practicing for karaoke, repeatedly played “Hey Jude” for four hours straight, and when I then decided to go over and kill them, it was Jason who diverted my attention with stories of Lincoln Ellsworth, who was so obsessed with the Old American West that when he flew his plane over Antarctica he wore a holster and antique six-shooter. It was Jason who suggested, after reading a draft of my manuscript, that I didn’t have enough “Antarctica” in my book about Antarctica, and that I should at least acknowledge the popular image of the place before questioning that image. From this advice I relinquished a portion of my selfishness and remembered the process of my experience of Antarctica, a slow metamorphosis from the grand to the absurd to the normal.

  The resulting manuscript appealed to Adam Parfrey, a publisher so sensitive to different shades of American culture that he actually liked the book before wondering whether it would sell to the penguin and iceberg crowd.

  Due to their ruthlessness and honesty, there are certain artists whose work long ago so influenced me that I consider them a primary internal audience. They are Nathan Cearley and Sean Tejaratchi.

  Rar Jungle is a real showboat. A real piece of work.

  When Rar and I once crept into Frank Woll’s house hoping to startle him, and found him on the couch watching a Nazi occult documentary, wearing a Darth Vader mask, and toying with a ten-inch hunting knife, I knew I had found an interesting friend.

  Before I met David Nelson, I didn’t know what dry humor was.

  To my parents, Dee Johnson and Jay Johnson, I am grateful for a stable upbringing and for their unconditional support despite my erratic and unpromising path through the world.

  The Old NSF logo: An elite fellowship lights the way from ancient to modern science under the unity of national might.

  The new NSF logo: A federal agency assumes stewardship of the globe under the unity of an interchangeable mob.

  Big Dead Place © 2005 by Nicholas Johnson

  All rights reserved

  eISBN : 978-1-932-59599-4

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  PO Box 39910

  Los Angeles, CA 90039

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  Design: Sean Tejaratchi

 

 

 


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