Renovation 4th Edition

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Renovation 4th Edition Page 7

by Michael Litchfield


  In row houses and other narrow structures,

  structure will be easiest to modify and which

  interior walls are often nonbearing because joists

  should be left alone and—once you start

  run the full width of the dwelling. There, interior

  exploring designs—which solutions will be the

  walls running parallel to joists—or even perpen-

  most practical and cost-effective

  dicular to them—were probably not bearing

  Using the floor plans you drew earlier as tem-

  walls originally. But, here again, they may have

  plates, use tracing paper to create a map for, say,

  become bearing walls if joists were undersize to

  major structural members such as girders and

  begin with or if their effective spans were

  bearing walls, another for HVAC system ele-

  reduced by “remuddlers’ cutting into them.

  ments, as well as a plumbing map showing fix-

  Where interior partitions have become bearing

  tures and, at least, drainage-waste-vent (DWV)

  walls, floors may slope toward them.

  pipes. While documenting each room, also note

  If your plans included removing a nonbearing

  water stains, tired windows, outdated fixtures,

  wall to open up a space, the task may be straight-

  ungrounded outlets, sagging floors, and other

  forward. If the wall is load-bearing, removing it is

  things that need fixing. (Chapter 1 can help you

  an expensive alteration involving structural engi-

  understand what you’re seeing.)

  neers to make sure those loads are correctly trans-

  structural elements. Most single-family, wood-

  ferred somewhere else. If that bearing wall is also

  framed houses are structurally pretty simple. The a shear wall, required in earthquake or high-wind

  planning Your renovation

  25

  easy to route: They’re much smaller than DWV

  pipes and don’t need to be pitched because water

  supplies are under pressure. Being flexible, PEX

  supply tubing is easy to run almost anywhere.

  HVAC systems tend to be big and bulky, espe-

  cially forced hot-air (FHA) systems, so their pres-

  ence also will affect your design options. If the

  system is relatively new—say, installed within the

  last 20 years—leaving ducts in place and install-

  ing a new high-efficiency furnace may be the

  most cost-effective and least disruptive way to

  upgrade an FHA system. Modern hydronic (hot-

  water) heating systems are typically fed by 3⁄4-in.

  pipe, so they can usually be relocated more easily.

  Whatever the HVAC system, sizing and configur-

  ing it is best left to an HVAC specialist, ideally as

  part of a whole-house energy assessment. See

  chapter 14 for a more detailed discussion.

  When mapping an FHA system, note the loca-

  tions of registers and the furnace. Then intuit the

  locations of ductwork, using dotted lines to sug-

  gest duct runs. In many cases, ducts or hydronic

  Using a printout of a Google satellite

  heat pipes will be visible where they emerge in

  map of your street, you can quickly

  the basement—or wherever the furnace is located.

  create a rough site plan of your

  regions to resist lateral forces, count on extensive

  For upper-story heat outlets, delivery ducts and

  property. Site plans help city planners plan reviews by the building department.

  see the scope of your renovation.

  pipes generally travel straight up between studs.

  Plumbing fixtures are often grouped around a

  Electrical wiring rarely affects design phases

  3-in. or 4-in. DWV stack located in a wall near the unless you intend to move a service panel. Small

  toilet. Grouping fixtures shortens the distances

  and flexible, electrical cable is easily routed

  large pipes must run and thus minimizes the

  through walls, floors, and ceilings. Where you

  impact on nearby framing. In many houses, large don’t want to cut into existing surfaces or can’t—

  stacks are concealed within wet walls framed out

  as with masonry floors—run rigid conduit or

  with 2x6s to provide enough room. If you can

  track wiring along the surface. Mapping electrical

  locate new fixtures near existing stacks, you’re

  systems and identifying individual circuits is dis-

  halfway home.

  cussed at length in chapter 11.

  Layouts that locate new bathrooms far from

  existing stacks can be problematic because all

  Creating a Site Map

  drains must slope downward at least 1⁄4 in. per

  1 ft. to carry off wastes. Thus, a 3-in. toilet drain

  As part of the permitting process, most towns

  would need roughly 8 in. of height for a 12-ft.

  require a site map—even if your renovation will

  horizontal run: 31⁄2 in. for the exterior diameter

  take place wholly within the existing footprint of

  of pipe plus 3 in. for slope plus 1 in. of clearance. the house. Fortunately, accurate site maps are

  In other words, you’d need to run drainpipes

  now easy to make. Simply enter your street

  between joists at least 10 in. deep. If existing joists address into Google Maps™, zoom in to choose

  don’t provide the height needed to run 3-in. or

  the closest view, click the “satellite” button, and

  4-in. drains, you can add a stack, build up a plat-

  print out the aerial view of your house and lot.

  form over an existing floor, or frame out false

  Trees may obscure some of the details, so to sim-

  ceilings below—all expensive solutions. You’d do

  plify things, put tracing paper over the satellite

  well to consider another design. Likewise, think

  photo, completely outline all structures on your

  long and hard about any floor plan that calls for

  property, and use broken lines to indicate fences

  running big drains across joist arrays—a night-

  or property lines.

  mare scenario of cutting and drilling, leading to

  If you are planning to build an addition,

  weakened joists.

  sketch it onto the site map, too. Be as accurate as

  To get an idea where pipes are running, draw

  you can, but don’t agonize. This simple site map

  fixtures on your plumbing map, and note where

  will be close enough to discuss your ideas with a

  main drains emerge in the basement and where

  city planner (to see how feasible your project is),

  stacks protrude from the roof (connect the dots).

  an architect, or a builder. If you proceed with the

  Rigid water-supply pipes, on the other hand, are

  renovation, later on you may need to have survey

  26

  Chapter 2

  lines checked and more extensive drawings made,

  but at this stage the site map can be simple.

  Confusion is Costly: a primer

  Getting Help with

  for owner–builders

  Your Renovation

  there are many ways you could save money by doing jobs yourself: obtaining

  After you’ve spent time wo
rking up a renovation

  permits, ordering materials, hiring and scheduling subcontractors, demolishing

  wish list and documenting what’s there, talk to

  walls, hauling rubble, and completing finish work. but that isn’t for everyone. and

  building professionals such as architects and

  because homeowner skills and experience vary, there are no easy rules for deciding

  general contractors (GCs) to get a reality check.

  what to attempt yourself. Yet there are times when even scarce money is well spent

  Building and remodeling projects can get

  for a skilled professional, and there are times when regulations require it.

  complicated and expensive. Whether you run the

  Hire a pro whenever these situations apply:

  whole show, from planning to construction, or

  you turn the entire thing over to a professional

   You’re confused and don’t know how or where to start a renovation task. this

  depends on how much time, expertise, and

  is especially true if you have trouble envisioning spatial solutions—seeing things in

  money you have. If you don’t have a ton of

  three dimensions.

  money, you might want to get involved in as

   You lack the technical skills to do a job—in which case, learning by working

  many places as you can. But if you can afford it,

  with a pro makes sense.

  it might make sense to hire an architect and let

   You’re rushed for time and can probably earn more elsewhere (to pay for the

  him or her find a good general contractor.

  work) than you could save by doing it yourself.

  Assembling the right team will make the rest of

   tasks require special or hard-to-find tools.

  the project go smoothly. Maybe you can do it.

   the job is inherently dangerous. For example, an amateur should not install an

  Maybe you can’t.

  electric service panel.

  Whenever possible, use your personal net-

   building codes, bank agreements, insurance policies, or other legally binding

  works to find building professionals to work

  documents require that work be done by a licensed professional.

  with. Perhaps a friend renovated recently and

  Finally, poorly organized projects and confusing drawings can idle workers, cost-

  had a great experience. Or maybe you’re keen on

  ing you big time. if you’re not well organized, patient, and willing to field phone

  a contractor who did another project for you. In

  calls at all hours, hire a gC who is. Likewise, if you’re not construction savvy and a

  that case, ask the GC for the names of an archi-

  tect whom she or he enjoys working with. Or

  capable draftsperson, hire a pro to generate final working drawings. it’s far cheaper

  maybe you know an architect but no contractors.

  to resolve construction issues on paper, especially if a project is complicated.

  In that case, the architect may help you find the

  rest of the team.

  As far as assembling a team to help you get

  the job done, here’s the bottom line: Make sure

  they are people who can see eye to eye with you

  As important, a perceptive architect can steer

  and who will work well together. Often, the best

  your project through the trickier parts of the

  teams are ones that have worked together before. approval process. Getting a project approved and

  The worst thing you can do is bring in a GC long

  built is a hardball game. If your first submittal

  after the plans are all complete, you’re in a hurry

  set isn’t accurate, complete, and professional

  to get started, and you only have a vague under-

  looking, your subsequent efforts will be viewed

  standing of what kind of person he is and what

  with skepticism and greater scrutiny. To quote a

  quality of work he does. You can hope it will

  seasoned builder, “Your documents must not

  work out, but that could be a recipe for disaster.

  only explain clearly what you want to do, but

  explain it in the way that planners want to hear

  arCHiteCtS anD DeSignerS

  it. Few builders are equipped to generate their

  own set of presentation plans for the site, even if

  An architect can refine your design ideas and

  they’ve got some talent in drawing. It’s a lot of

  draw up the floor plans and elevations needed for work and takes a lot of time.”

  the submittal set—documents and plans submit-

  This succinct observation came from a general

  ted to the building department for a permit. But

  contractor: “The main reason to hire an architect

  an architect can do much more. He or she will

  is to make sure you’re building the right project.”

  devise solutions that maximize natural light and

  usable space—always a challenge—and suggest

  generaL ContraCtorS

  materials and appliances that are stylish, func-

  tional, and energy-conserving. An architect also

  To save money, homeowners sometimes try to act

  can assemble a team of specialists, from energy

  as their own general contractor. At first glance,

  specialists to structural engineers.

  obtaining (“pulling”) permits, ordering materials,

  planning Your renovation

  27

  training may offer “design-build” services under

  one roof—or in one person.

  When Do You need a permit?

  There are many ways to find a good GC. Start

  Local codes always have the last say about what’s permitted, so speak with a

  with the recommendations of friends who’ve

  remodeled recently. Architects also will know

  planner in city hal or visit your town’s building department website to learn the rules.

  who’s good. Once you have two or three names,

  that noted, these observations hold true for building permits in most areas:

  call each, ask for an hour of his or her time to

   permits are required for all new construction and most renovations involving

  look at your ideas, and get an idea of what it

  structural, mechanical (HvaC), electrical, or plumbing system changes. permits

  might cost. (First meetings are usually free; after

  require inspections at specified stages and/or completion.

  that, be prepared to pay . . . it’s only fair.) Most

   a separate permit is usually required for each system being altered.

  builders won’t want to ballpark a price based on

   the person doing the work must pull the permit(s), whether a contractor or a

  a schematic, but they will give you a price range

  homeowner.

  per sq. ft. based upon construction costs in your

   the permit must be posted on the job site where an inspector can see it.

  area. In any event, if you find a contractor you

  Permits required. as a rule of thumb, renovations that alter the structure or

  like, ask for references and a list of jobs she or he

  extend an electrical, plumbing, or HvaC system require a permit. if the work involves

  has done in the last five years. It’s important that

  the creation or enlargement of an opening in an exterior wal —such as adding a door

&nb
sp; the references and jobs be this recent because

  or window—you need a permit. Likewise, if an interior renovation involves cutting

  construction crews change often.

  into finish surfaces or working inside a wal , a permit is usual y required. to cite a few

  specifics, you need a permit when adding a room, adding or removing wal s, finishing

  DeSigner-buiLDerS

  any room (basement, garage, attic) to create additional living spaces, adding bath-

  Add one more to the mix of people who can help

  room or kitchen fixtures, or adding electrical outlets and fixtures.

  you renovate: the designer-builder. Time was,

  No permits needed. on the other hand, you generally do not need a permit

  before the skills of homebuilding and design split

  when repairing or replacing an existing fixture or outlet, when the work is largely

  apart, they were often embodied in one person, a

  cosmetic, or when an installation doesn’t require cutting into finish surfaces. For

  master builder. That tradition is returning, in

  example, no permit is required to replace a broken electrical receptacle; replace a

  part because of tight times but also because cli-

  toilet or bathroom sink; retile a shower stall; replace an existing garbage disposal or

  ents like having one person who can answer all

  their questions—whether aesthetic, technical, or

  dishwasher; install or replace portable appliances such as washing machines or

  budgetary—and accept all responsibility if there’s

  refrigerators; or replace a doorbell.

  a bump in the road. Designer-builder firms also

  Important for safety. installing or replacing a water heater always requires a

  argue that the transition from design to build is

  permit because a unit’s temperature- and pressure-relief (tpr) valve must be

  smoother when handled under one roof.

  installed correctly to prevent an explosion. all work on gas appliances, lines, or

  Interestingly, two of the three case histories at

  vents requires a permit. instal ing or altering any vented heating or cooling system

  the end of this chapter were executed by design-

  needs a permit—including furnaces, woodstoves, gas ranges, range hoods, bath

  build outfits, and the third featured “an architect

  fans, dryer exhausts, and so on. You may also need a permit to repair or replace gFCi-

  with a ton of construction experience and a

  protected receptacles.

  builder who could draw.”

  DeaLing WitH CitY HaLL

 

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