Renovation 4th Edition

  A 4-ft. spirit level is a good, all-purpose level,

  blade is turning at 90° to the motor shaft, it is more

  long enough to level accurately across joists and

  likely to bind if your cut wanders off the line. For

  check for level and plumb of door and window

  that reason, a rip fence is a nice accessory.

  casings.

  Beam saws are called “sidewinders on ste-

  roids” because they can accommodate 10-in.

  tools

  47

  THE ZEn OF tool Belts

  Circular saws. From left: sidewinder,

  Tool-belt users can be divided into two groups:

  beam saw, and worm-drive.

  walking hardware stores and minimalists.

  Whatever the load preference, pros who organize

  their belts so they can grab a tool without look-

  ing at it can outwork everybody because they get

  a rhythm down: hammer on one side, nails on

  the other; Speed Square on the left, pencil on

  the right; tape measure on the back of the

  belt—never a lost tool or a wasted motion.

  Before each job, they lay out the belt with just

  the tools they’ll need.

  Jigsaw and reciprocating saw.

  blades that cut smoothly through 4x lumber in

  one pass. It’s not a must-buy item, but, wow,

  what a tool!

  For circular-saw blades in general, the more

  teeth it has, the smoother the cut. If you buy just

  one, make it carbide tipped; it will stay sharp far

  longer and give cleaner cuts than other types. There

  are specialty blades for almost anything you’d want

  DEMOlITIOn Blades

  to cut: tile, concrete, metal, and wet or pressure-

  Bimetal demo blades for recip saws are designed to cut almost everything they meet.

  treated lumber (these blades have a Teflon® coat-

  They are not, however, indestructible, so here are a few tips on choosing and using

  ing). Remodelers’ blades cut through wood and

  the occasional nail without being damaged.

  them. The average demo blade has 6 to 8 teeth per inch (tpi) and is roughly 0.035 in.

  thick. Thicker, heavier blades will last longer because they bend less. Thicker blades

  A reciprocating saw, also called a Sawzall®

  wander, bend, and break less than thin ones.

  after a popular make, is the indispensable demo-

  As best you can, match teeth to the task: 3-tpi blades chomp through wood, but

  lition saw. A marvel in tight spaces, it can remove

  their big teeth will be useless if you hit a nail. Conversely, 12- or 14-tpi blades may

  old pipes, cut through studs or joists, or, with a

  soon clog and overheat. (Overheated blades lose their temper.) Hence, 6- to 8-tpi

  bimetal demolition blade, cut through nails and

  studs in one pass. (Blades break, so get extras.) A

  blades will be most versatile. Saw speed and action are crucial, too: A reciprocating

  “recip” saw also is useful in new construction to

  saw with orbital action clears debris best from sawkerfs and blade teeth for faster

  notch studs for pipes, cut plywood nailed over

  cuts and cooler blades. If a blade isn’t cutting, replace it. Never force any saw.

  rough openings for windows and doors, and

  many other tasks.

  Reciprocating saw demo blades

  Features to look for include orbital action,

  can cut through nails embedded

  which clears sawdust out of a blade kerf, speeds

  in lumber without destroying the

  cutting, and, by reducing heat buildup, extends

  blade. From top: 6-in. Sawzall

  metal blade will handle nails

  blade life; variable-speed control for cutting dif-

  well, but its fine teeth will be

  ferent materials; quick blade-changing mecha-

  slow going through wood; 6-in.

  nism; good sightline so you can see cuts; and

  Diablo® demo blade can handle

  embedded nails but won’t last as

  reduced vibration.

  long as its carbide-tipped 9-in.

  Jigsaws, sometimes called sabersaws, are useful

  Diablo demo cousin; two 9-in.

  Sawzall blades can handle nails,

  for notches, curving cuts, and odd-shaped holes.

  but the Torch™’s finer teeth

  Typical uses include cutting out holes for sinks in

  won’t cut quite as aggressively;

  countertops and holes in cabinet backs so pipes

  Boar Blade® has different size

  teeth above and below.

  or ducts can pass through. The blades are thin

  and prone to snap, so buy extras.

  48

  Chapter 3

  OsCillating multitOOls

  Oscillating multitools, cordless or corded, have

  become an essential renovation tool because they

  are unequalled for cutting materials in place.

  Often called Fein tools because that company has

  dominated the niche for decades, multitools have

  blades that vibrate rather than spin. Thanks to

  precise (3.2°) oscillations per minute (OPM), they

  can make fine-kerf, controlled cuts where it would

  be hard or impossible for most cutting tools to

  fit. Use multitools to remove a small amount of

  wood from the bottom of a door jamb; make fine,

  multiple cuts to fit a threshold to complex trim;

  or remove a section of finished flooring.

  These tools do more than just cut. Diverse

  attachments allow them to grind, sand, and

  scrape. They can remove grout without damag-

  ing surrounding tiles, scrape out stubborn glaz-

  ing compound without harming delicate window

  muntins, and sand into a corner. Cutting blades

  come in a range of materials, including (from

  more durable to less): bimetal (BIM), high-speed

  steel (HSS), and high-carbon steel (HCS).

  Fein oscillating multitool and

  accessories are perfect for making

  Multitools have variable-speed controls; Fein’s

  and other thin stock. Most are two-sided, with rip fine cuts in materials that have

  MultiMaster 250Q runs 12,000 to 21,000 OPM.

  and crosscut teeth on opposite edges of the blade. already been installed. Accessories:

  Operate cutting blades at highest speeds, scrap-

  A handsaw is still worth having in your toolbox,

  On tool, wood-saw blade; from left:

  ing blades at medium-high, and sanding attach-

  preferably a 10-point crosscut saw. Even if you

  sanding pad, boot blades for

  ments low to medium.

  removing grout, scraping blade,

  depend primarily on a circular saw, a handsaw is

  There are a few downsides, most notably (and

  flexible scraper blade for removing

  handy for finishing cuts that don’t go all the way

  putty, and grinding wheel.

  painfully) the cost of replacement blades, which

  through a rafter or joist.

  tend to be proprietary and thus not compatible

  A dovetail saw makes clean crosscuts in small

  with other makers’ arbor patterns. Some Fein

  molding, doorstops, and casing beads.

  blades can cost $50 a pop, so choose and use

  them carefully. There’s a bit of a learning curve

&nbs
p; A keyhole saw can cut holes in drywall for elec-

  for these tools, and each specialty blade cuts a lit- trical boxes, without predrilling.

  tle differently. Specifically, when starting cuts,

  blades tend to skitter around until you get the

  hang of it. Practice on scrap or in an out-of-the-

  way place. Don’t try to make the whole cut at

  once. Start in a corner of the area to be cut and

  roll/ease the blade into place. When using multi-

  tools, hearing and eye protection are a must, and

  respirators are highly recommended.

  hanDsaWs

  The following inexpensive handsaws are handy

  to have:

  Coping saws cut curves into any thin stock,

  although their primary use is coping trim so

  intersecting pieces fit snugly. They take both

  metal- and wood-cutting blades.

  A hacksaw is most often used to cut metal, espe-

  cially bolts or nails. Sawblades will last longer if

  you use the full length of the blade.

  A Japanese saw cuts on the pull stroke. Its thin, Handsaws. Clockwise, from lower right: dovetail saw, crosscut saw, Japanese saw, coping saw, flexible blade is perfect for cutting flush shims

  and hacksaw.

  tools

  49

  rOutErs

  Full-size routers are probably too expensive for

  casual remodelers, but trim routers and rotary

  tools are versatile and reasonably priced. Safety

  goggles are a must with any router.

  laminate trimmers also are called trim routers.

  In addition to trimming laminate edges, these

  lightweight routers are great for mortising door

  hinges and strike plates.

  Plunge routers can be lowered to precise depths

  in the middle of a workpiece, making them ideal

  for wood joinery, edge shaping, mortising door

  hinges, and so on.

  Dremel® variable-speed rotary tools can dis-

  lodge tired tile grout and remove stubborn paint

  from beaded or ornate woodwork. There are

  hundreds of specialized accessories for this tool.

  hanD Cutting anD shaping tOOls

  Power tools can do a lot, but you often need a

  hand tool to finish the job.

  Chisels clean up the corners of hinge mortises

  where a router can’t reach and quickly notch

  plates so washers sit flush. Be sure to sheathe

  cutting edges so they stay sharp and don’t cut you

  Routers. Clockwise, from top: large plunge router, laminate trimmer, and Dremel rotary tool

  when you reach for them.

  with plunge base.

  Mallets can strike chisels without damaging

  their handles.

  P R O T I P

  Claw hammers are designed to

  pound nails—not other ham-

  mers, wrecking bars, or chisels.

  2

  and hammer claws are generally

  too weak for extensive nail pull-

  ing or prying apart lumber. for

  3

  those jobs, use a cat’s paw or a

  wrecking bar.

  4

  6

  7

  1

  5

  8

  9

  Cutting and shaping tools: 1. Mallet; 2. Flat file; 3. Rat-tail file; 4. Utility knife;

  5. Chisels; 6. Block plane; 7. Bullnose plane; 8. 4-in-1 rasp; 9. Carbide scraper

  50

  Chapter 3

  Utility knives are indispensable. Quick-blade-

  change knives dispense fresh blades so you don’t

  Cordless TOOlS

  need to unscrew the knife’s body. Don’t use knives

  with cheap, snap-off blades (often sold at statio-

  Cordless tools have gotten pretty beefy. You can now get 24-volt cordless drills, circu-

  nery or office-supply stores) to cut construction

  lar saws, and reciprocating saws. But a bigger battery doesn’t always make a better

  materials; they can break unexpectedly and

  tool: Heavy batteries can strain your wrist and arm. For most renovation tasks—such

  injure you.

  as driving 3-in. screws into studs—a 12v or 14.4v tool is more than adequate. If a

  Rat-tail files smooth and enlarge holes and cre-

  cordless tool is straining to do a job, chances are that its blade or bit is not sharp.

  ate an oval slot after two holes are drilled close to

  Corded tools are still better if there’s a lot of cutting and drilling to do. But if you

  each other.

  have joists to cut, holes to drill, or joists to notch in inaccessible places, grab your

  Flat files take burrs off newly cut bolts and the

  cordless tool and go for it.

  like, so you can start a washer.

  Four-in-one rasps contain two flat and two

  curved rasps in one wood-shaping tool.

  Block planes shave off tiny amounts of wood

  from door edges, casings, and other thin stock,

  allowing tight, final fits of materials.

  Bullnose planes can fine-shave wood edges in

  tight places. The blade is the same width as the

  sole of the plane. You can remove the bullnose

  front piece, allowing you to plane into a corner.

  Bahco® by Snap-On® carbide scrapers are not

  intended to shape wood, but their blades are so

  sharp that you can. Use them to remove dried

  putty or excess Bondo® or to clean up the spurs

  of medium-density fiberboard (MDF) that screws

  sometimes kick up.

  Drills

  A 3⁄8-in. cordless drill is a must. These days,

  builders use screws to install almost everything

  from exterior trim to decks and drywall. For

  most renovators, a 12v or 14.4v drill is optimal;

  there are models with more voltage and bigger

  chucks, but 12v or 14.4v has a good weight-to-

  power ratio. Get a reversible, variable-speed

  model with a keyless chuck, adjustable clutch,

  and an extra battery.

  A 3⁄8-in. corded, pistol-grip drill has the sus-

  tained run time that cordless drills lack, more

  power, and a side handle to help you control its

  torque. It drills 1-in. or 11⁄2-in. holes easily, but

  use a 1⁄2-in. right-angle drill if you’re roughing in

  plumbing lines.

  A 3⁄8-in. close-quarter cordless drill is best for

  tight spaces like cabinet interiors. Its right-angle

  configuration extends your reach when you are

  hanging upper cabinets.

  Corded drills. From top: 3⁄8-in. pistol-grip drill and 1⁄2-in. right-angle drill.

  tools

  51

  CORDlESS impact DRIVERS

  Cordless impact drivers can do almost everything a cordless drill or

  driver does—and better. Screw guns are fine on tasks where there’s

  virtually no resistance—say, when screwing drywall or driving self-

  tapping screws into metal studs. But for most other construction

  tasks, builders use cordless impact drivers. Where there’s greater

  resistance, the impact drivers can knock in screws at lower rpms, so a

  bit is less likely to slip.

  And impact drivers have twice as much power as drill/drivers of the

  same size because the tool delivers its torque in intermittent pulses.

  They’re well suited to jobs with limited space or accessibility, such as

  installing 1⁄
2-in. lag screws into ledger boards or sinking 6-in. struc-

  tural screws into posts or beams. Impact drivers are a bit slower and

  noisier than drills, but that’s a small price to pay.

  Drill Bits

  first, so you can retract the bit and center it to

  finish drilling from the other side. This lets you

  A standard drill nest contains 1⁄16-in. to 1⁄4-in.

  avoid splintering wood in a “bust-through.”

  twist drill bits. From there, you’re on your own.

  A plumber’s bit is a wide, self-feeding auger

  The following specialized bits are quite useful.

  good for rough-in framing work.

  Vix® bits have spring-loaded drives that accu-

  Reamers are tapered bits that enlarge an exist-

  rately center holes for hinges, striker plates, and

  ing hole in metal or wood.

  window pulls.

  large twist drill bits, also called aircraft bits,

  Self-feeding auger bits drill through posts for

  are best suited for drilling metal.

  bolts and through wall plates for hold-downs. A

  12-in. by 1⁄4-in. auger doubles as an exploratory bit.

  Drilling anD

  Hole saws drill large-diameter holes in finish

  sCrEWing aCCEssOriEs

  materials such as doors and countertops. The

  pilot bit in the middle emerges on the backside

  Magnetic bit holders magnetize drill bits so

  screws don’t fall off. Some types also have a collet

  that keeps the screw centered as you drive them in.

  Extension bit holders enable you to drive

  screws where drill/drivers won’t fit.

  Flexible bit holders drive screws at angles drill/

  1

  drivers can’t reach.

  Drill bit extensions enable you to drill deeper

  with the bits you’ve got.

  A ratchet-handle bit driver can turn Phillips-

  2

  or hex-head screws in tight spaces. They’re also

  great for turning the leveling devices on

  7

  refrigerator legs.

  3

  5

  6

  A stubby screwdriver has a reversible bit: one

  side Phillips head, the other slotted.

  8

  4

  A 4-in-1 screwdriver is the screwdriver to own if

  you have only one.

  Allen wrenches tighten Allen screws on a lot of

  Drill bits: 1. Self-feeding auger bits; 2. Drill bit extension; 3. Rebar-cutting bit;

  tools, including drill bit extensions.

  4. Long twist drill bit; 5. 1⁄2-in. by 3⁄4-in. reamer; 6. 3⁄4-in. twist drill bit; 7. Hole saw;