Before installing a prehung exterior in-swing door,
should have hinges matched to the weight and width of the door
remove the door and test-fit the frame in the opening.
The 2x4 cleats nailed to the sheathing act as depth
(width is a lesser consideration, but wider doors do exert more torque
gauges, so jamb edges will be flush to sheathing.
on hinges as they swing). Modestly priced exterior doors usually come
with standard 4-in. by 4-in. butt hinges. However, if your entry door is
oversize or wood (which tends to be heavier than fiberglass or steel
doors), consider paying a bit more for 41⁄2-in. or 5-in. bal -bearing hinges.
you can also get adjustable hinges, which are mortised into the edge of
the door and can accommodate vertical and horizontal adjustments—
rather like the “german hinges” (see p. 369) used in good-quality cabi-
nets. Adjustable hinges seem like a good idea for houses subject to
seasonal shifting, such as those built on adobe soil.
Lock assemblies. Most exterior doors sport a single-point lock
that lodges into a plate on the latch side of the door frame. For a mod-
est bump in price, you can add a dead bolt and a reinforced strike plate
(see p. 123), which can’t be dislodged by a kick—the preferred method
of entry by breaking-and-entering men. Beyond that, you enter the
world of multipoint locking systems that secure two more sides of the
entry door to the door frame; some designs seem inspired by the mech-
anisms used to lock bank vaults. With multipoint locking systems
priced at $2,000 and up—way up—it might be helpful to own a bank if
you’re considering them.
Shim and secure the hinge jamb first, checking for plumb
often. Here, installers place shims slightly above and
below the hinges so the hinge screws sticking through the
jamb won’t snag on the shims.
Doors, Windows, and Skylights
115
Method 1: The door stays hung
between the frame and the trimmer near the top
of the frame, and pry the frame out on one side
1. Pry off the shipping blocks, remove the plas- until the hinge jamb is plumb. Then tack the
tic plugs from the lock bore, and place the unit
hinge jamb as described. If the hinge jamb is
into the RO. (At this point, assume the doorsill is
bowed, that could give you an off-plumb reading,
level.) Approximately center the unit left to right
too. Adjust shims and use nails to adjust the
in the opening, then margin the hinge jamb while bowed section.
a helper keeps the unit from tipping. Near the top
P R O T I P
of the hinge jamb, drive in a 10d finish nail
4. Once you’ve plumbed and secured the hinge
through the face of the jamb to tack it to the
jamb, read the reveal—make sure there is an even
Hand-nail the finish nails used
trimmer. (You may have to open the door to do
clearance between the door and the jambs—to
to tack a frame to the RO and
this.) Then hold a 6-ft. level to the edge of the
position the head and the latch jambs. Use nails
leave nail heads sticking up. If
jamb and then to the face of the jamb to see if the to draw the frame toward the trimmer or adjust
you use a nail gun for this opera-
hinge jamb is plumb.
the shims so the reveal is uniform—typically
tion, you’ll likely drive the nails
about 1⁄8 in. As you work the jambs, also use the
all the way in—making subse-
2. If the sill is level and the frame has
quent adjustments difficult.
edge of your Speed Square to make sure frame
remained square, you should get a plumb read-
edges are margined in the wall.
ing. Also, sight along the frame to make sure the
One final aside: Precased door units can be
jamb stock is straight. If the hinge jamb is
shimmed only from the inside. In that case, insert
plumb, insert pairs of shims between the hinge
a shim, fat end first, until it butts against the
jamb and the trimmer stud—one pair of shims
back of the casing, then slide additional shims,
behind each of the three hinges and two more
thin edge first, until shims are tight. Nail or
pairs spaced equidistant between the hinge
screw below each stack of shims, then close the
shims. Because you and your helper will have a
door and see if it seats evenly against the frame.
door between you, you’ll need to communicate
constantly as you insert shim pairs from both
Method 2: remove the door
sides and continually check for plumb.
1. After prepping the opening, pull the hinge
3. If, on the other hand, the hinge jamb is not
pins and remove the door from the frame. (As is
plumb, the frame may be racked slightly. Again,
the case in the directions above, assume the
assuming that the sill is level, insert a flat bar
doorsill is level.)
2. Center the frame left to right in the opening,
and margin the frame. If you’re working solo and
want to make sure the frame stays margined,
tack temporary cleats to the outside of the frame
and to the exterior sheathing, as shown in the top
photo on p. 115. Tack it lightly though, because
you’ll probably need to reposition the frame as
you plumb its sides.
3. Start with the hinge jamb. Having margined
the frame, drive a 10d finish nail in the middle of
the hinge jamb about 6 in. down from the top;
leave the nail head sticking out. Using a 6-ft. level
to check for plumb, shim the jamb behind each
hinge: top, bottom, and then middle hinge. If you
nail just below the shims, they’ll be easier to
adjust. Use two 10d finish nails for each shim-
ming point and, again, leave the nail heads stick-
ing up. As you hold your level against the jamb
hinge, note whether the jamb stock is straight. If
it bows, you’ll need to nail or adjust shims to pull
the jamb into line. In all, use five pairs of shims
(and nails) to secure the jamb hinge.
After plumbing and securing the hinge
As you adjust latch and head jambs, make
4. Using a framing square to ensure that it’s
jamb, rehang the door so you can use it as a sure there’s an even gap (typically 1⁄8 in.)
roughly square to the hinge jamb, tack the head
gauge to align the head jamb and the latch between the door and the jambs all around.
jamb to the header. The head jamb’s position is
jamb correctly. This method is particularly
approximate at this point because you’ll use the
helpful if the door is slightly twisted or
door to fit things more exactly. With the aid of a
warped because you can align the latch
jamb to the door.
helper, set the exterior door back on its hinges.
116 Chapter 6
Shimming exterior Doors
Shim exterior door frames at five points along each side jamb. Along the hinge jamb,
/> shim behind each of the three hinges—or as close as possible if hinge-screw points
stick out of the back side—and add two more sets of shims spaced equidistant
between hinge shims. Space shims along the latch jamb at roughly the same intervals,
but don’t shim directly behind strike plates or dead bolts. Shim the head jamb midway
and at both corners.
exterior door frames are often instal ed with pairs of 10d galvanized finish nails that
go through or slightly below each pair of shims. Using two nails at each interval keeps
the frame from twisting. Other builders favor pairs of 21⁄2-in. stainless-steel trim-head
or plated flathead screws because they grip better and can be removed easily. In addi-
tion, many builders remove the middle screw of the top hinge, shim behind it, and
replace the original screws with 21⁄2-in. or 3-in. screws that sink deep into framing.
Shim the head jamb after plumbing the latch jamb. If the
Here are some fine points to consider:
frame is uncased, you can insert shims from both sides
It doesn’t matter whether you screw or nail below shims or through them, as
and easily slide them in and out. The white line inside the
jambs is kerf-in weatherstripping.
long as the shims are snug. (Shimming below hinges allows them to be adjusted
later—which you can’t do easily if you nail through them.)
even if trimmer studs are plumb, shim between the door frame and the rough
Close the door and note how it fits the frame.
opening anyhow. that is, don’t nail jambs directly to the framing: A shimmed frame
Without weatherstripping, there should be an
even reveal, about
will be easier to modify or replace later.
1⁄8 in. wide, around the door.
Always shim the head jamb or it may bow into the opening or jump when you
5. If the door hits the edge of the latch jamb,
nail casing or drywall to it.
that jamb may be bowed or the shims behind the
to cut shims flush to finish surfaces, score the shims with a utility knife. then
hinge jamb may be too thick. Adjusting an
snap off the waste. you can also use a japanese saw or an oscillating multitool.
uncased exterior door frame is similar to “work-
ing” an interior door frame. Shim the head jamb
and then the latch jamb—fine-tuning the jambs
so the 1⁄8-in. reveal between the door and the
frame is constant. Operate the door to make sure
it opens and shuts without binding. The latch
jamb should have four or five pairs of shims, and
2. Before attaching casing, air-seal the gaps
the head jamb should have at least three. Then
around the frame. There are two primary ways to
fit insulation between the frame and the RO,
do this. The first is to apply self-adhesive flashing
install casing, and flash the unit, as described in
tape so that it straddles the gap between the
P R O T I P
the following section.
jambs and the housewrap. The second way is to
SeAlINg, CASINg, AND
run beads of siliconized acrylic caulk around the
Prime and paint all six sides
jamb edges and the RO, then press 6-in.-wide
of exterior doors—especially the
FlASHINg tHe FRAMe
fiber-reinforced paper flashing strips into the
top and bottom edges—before
If any edges or faces of the frame are still unfin-
putting on the hardware and
caulk, as shown in the center photo on p. 118.
ished, prime or paint them before installing exte-
weatherstripping. Protect unfin-
These strips aren’t self-adhesive, so staple edges
rior casing.
ished wood with at least one
that overlap the sheathing. Whether you use tape
coat of primer and two coats of
1. If the cavity between the jambs and the
or strips, align their edges back 1⁄4 in. from the
good-quality oil-based paint.
framing is accessible only from the outside, fill it
inside edge of the frame so they won’t be visible.
Also, carefully prime lock holes,
with insulation before installing the exterior cas-
(Strips are favored by builders who want a thin-
leaf gains, and all edges. Finally,
ing. I favor packing the cavity with loose fiber-
ner material between frame jambs and casing, or
caulk panels after priming and
glass or recycled cotton insulation. Should you
those who have not yet installed housewrap and
before painting so there’s no
need to adjust the frame at some future time, you want to slide flashing under the housewrap at the
place for water to penetrate.
will be able to do so easily. If you fill the cavity
head and sides.)
with spray foam—even low-expanding foam—
3. If the unit’s doorsill has horns that extend
you are, in effect, gluing everything together and
beyond the side jambs, trim each horn to match
creating a huge mess for the next person to work
similar details elsewhere on the house. Typically,
on the frame. Avoid high-expansion foam at all
horns line up with the outer edge of side jambs,
costs: It’s so powerful that it can easily bow jambs or protrude 1⁄4 in. beyond them. Because the sill
into the opening and bind doors and windows.
is pitched, you’ll need to cut the bottoms of the
Doors, Windows, and Skylights
117
As you install casing, drive a finish nail through corner
miter joints to keep them from separating. You can also
glue the joint, but this joint will be kept in place by the
stucco that surrounds it. Note the 1⁄4-in. reveal between
the casing and the edge of the jamb.
Secure the frame, trim the shims
flush, remove the temporary cleats,
and apply a bead of caulk to the jamb
edges. Keep the caulk back at least
1⁄4 in. from jamb faces.
Apply flashing strips to the edge of each side jamb so that
it beds in the caulking. However, before applying exterior
casing, apply a second bead of caulking over the flashing
paper. Double-caulking virtually eliminates air and water
infiltration. Staple the other edge of the strip to the
Install cap flashing atop the head casing, nailing its upper
sheathing.
flange as high as possible. This metal flashing will be
overlapped by a self-adhesive flashing tape and stucco.
Cap flashing should overhang the casing slightly along
the front and at the ends of the casing so water drips free.
zzzzzz Door-Casing Reveal
casing at the same angle; use an adjustable bevel
Finished wall
gauge to transfer the angle to the casing.
4. Attach the casing. Set the inside edges of
Side jamb
jamb casing back 1⁄4 in. from the inner edges of
the jambs to create a 1⁄4-in. reveal. Then nail up
the head casing. If casing corners are mitered,
nail through the joint to draw it tight, as shown
Gap between
in the bottom phot
o above. Note: A flashing strip
door frame and RO
or piece of flashing tape will be applied over the
upper leg of the cap flashing to direct water away
from the sheathing. ( Above overlaps below. )
Head jamb
5. Once you have installed the head casing,
Casing
attach the head flashing (cap flashing) that was
1
supplied by the door manufacturer. If your
/4-in. reveal
prehung door didn’t come with head flashing,
any sheet-metal shop can fabricate a piece of
Doorstop
galvanized head flashing with the proper offset
for the thickness of the head casing so water
drips beyond it. Many lumberyards also carry a
When installing casing, set it back 1/4 in. from the jamb edges.
variety of preformed flashing, and brickworks
This setback, called a reveal, tricks the eye: Even if jambs or casings
carry specialized head casing.
are not straight, their joints look straight.
118 Chapter 6
6. Caulk the head casing/sheathing joint, press
the cap flashing down onto the casing, then use
large-head nails to nail the top flange of the flash-
ing to the sheathing. Apply self-adhesive flashing
tape or strip flashing over the top leg of the head
Just above grade, this wide
flashing, and run housewrap and siding down
opening needed some extra
over that.
attention. A self-adhesive
bituminous waterproofing
Instal ing French Doors
membrane seals the sheathing/
foundation joint (just visible,
Installing double doors requires more plumb and
lower left); this flexible
level readings, shim adjustments, and—above
membrane, in turn, is covered by
all—more patience than hanging a single door,
galvanized sheet metal. The
but the procedure is much the same. So I’ll zip
bottom of the rough opening
Because French doors are wide and heavy, it’s crucial that
also is wrapped with foil-faced
through the steps covered earlier to get to the
the subfloor of the opening be level. Insufficiently
peel-and-stick flashing, which
adjustment most often required when installing
supported, French-door thresholds can flex, become
extends 4 in. up the studs at
double doors: figuring out why the doors don’t
Renovation 4th Edition Page 28