remove the bottom sash. Avoid damaging the stops so
remove any remaining hardware such as
they can be reused.
pulley wheels or metal weatherstripping.
INStAllINg WINDOW INSeRtS
Window inserts can be installed from inside or
outside. If you favor an exterior installation, you
will first need to cut the window’s exterior blind-
stops flush with the casing so the new insert
frame can be fitted into the existing frame. Insert
3. After surveying the opening for
frames can be installed with the sashes left in or
rot and checking to be sure jambs
removed. Although the photo sequence shows
are straight and plumb, insulate
them removed, in this description, assume the
between the frame and the rough
opening. Here, cotton insulation is
sashes remain in the frame.
being stuffed into old pulley weight
As shown in the photos, remove sashes and
cavities.
parting stops, as well as anything sticking out of
the jambs, such as weatherstripping, stray nails,
4. The new jamb liners, which are 31⁄2 in. wide, will seat 5. Jamb liners are held in place by a series of metal
against the exterior stop. To attain that width, the instal-
installation clips placed approximately 4 in. below
ler here discovers that he must trim the edge of the sill
the head jamb, 4 in. above the sill, and spaced evenly
trim about 1⁄4 in.
in between.
6. To ensure that vinyl jamb liners snap easily onto clips,
level the clips and install them 1⁄16 in. away from the
exterior stop.
Doors, Windows, and Skylights
139
7. Sashes seat in the jamb liners via 8. each sash has a “pin” on both
9. To install each sash, position a sash pin above a locking terminal, then raise
a locking terminal assembly. Before
sides.
the other side.
installing the sashes of a double-
hung unit, you must first use a
screwdriver to pull the four
assemblies into position.
10. When both pins are aligned, slowly tilt up the sash, 11. Repeat this procedure with the bottom sash. After
then press down until you feel the pins snap into the
checking to see that sashes slide freely and seat well at
locking terminals. Then swing the top of the sash up until
the top and bottom, reinstall the interior stops.
it seats in the liners.
and the like. Old jambs should be as flat as possi-
of the frame. Using screws provided with the kit,
ble. Inspect the opening for rot, and repair any
tack the top of the frame in place—there will be a
you see, then once again ascertain that jambs are predrilled hole nearby. Raise the bottom sash and
plumb and the frame is square: If they are not,
lower the top one a few inches and check the
you’ll get an idea of where you’ll need to shim.
frame for square again.
Don’t overshim, as that could bow the frame.
Using a tape measure, take multiple readings
Before installing the insert frame, bend the sill from jamb to jamb to ensure that the jambs are
fin on the bottom of the unit so that its angle
equidistant and the sashes slide without binding.
matches that of the existing sill. Note: Depending The key adjustment device in the Marvin insert
on whether you install the insert from outside or
system shown here are two jamb jack screws
inside the house, its frame will seat against the
midway up each jamb. Drill pilot holes for both
interior sash stop or the exterior sash stop (also
jack screws, and screw them into the old frame
called a blind stop). Center the unit in the open-
behind until they seat. You can turn each jamb
ing, plumb it, take diagonal readings to be sure
jack screw clockwise to move jambs away from a
the insert frame is square, and shim the corners
sash, or counterclockwise to move them toward a
140 Chapter 6
Measuring For InSerTS
old window frames are frequently out of square,
even if their jambs are parallel. so when you mea-
sure the frame’s height and width, note which
way it leans as well, so you can order the biggest
rectangle that will fit into that opening. makers
of replacement windows manufacture units in
1⁄4-in. or 1⁄2-in. increments, so when you measure
the inside of a window frame, be accurate. Take
three vertical measurements—from the high
point of the sill to the head jamb—and three hor-
izontal measurements, and select the shortest of
each. Also measure the frame from diagonally
opposite corners to determine if it’s square: The
two readings will be equal if it is square.
1. Carefully remove interior stops so you can reuse them, 2. Older windows frequently have
By the way, measure from jamb faces, not
then pull out the lower sash. If sash cords are attached,
metal weatherstripping tacked to
from parting stops; the stops will be removed
detach them and lift the sash out of the frame.
jambs, which needs to be removed—
before you install the new jamb liners or frame.
as do parting stops between upper
and lower sashes. A flat pry bar is the
best tool for the job; wear work
gloves. Remove the upper sash.
3. If there are access panels for sash
weights, open them, lift out the
weights, and pack the cavity with
loose insulation. In general, don’t use
spray foam here: even low-expanding
foams tend to fix elements in place,
making it difficult to adjust the width
of a frame later.
4. After checking the old frame for rot, dry-fit the insert 5. Center the unit in the opening, plumb it, take diagonal frame into the cleaned-up opening. Many installers prefer readings to be sure the frame is square, and shim the
to leave the sashes in the insert, but this installer took
corners as needed. To move jamb frames in and out, this
them out so he could easily eyeball the perimeter of the
insert unit relies on a pair of adjustable jack screws.
insert frame inside and out to see how it fit.
Doors, Windows, and Skylights
141
sash. Work the frame until everything is to your
liking. Trim shims flush and caulk the perimeter
of the insert frame, using backer rod as needed to
fill larger gaps. If you removed interior stops,
reinstall them now.
INStAllINg NeW-
CONStRUCtION WINDOWS
When rot is present in a window frame or the
framing material around a rough opening, you’ll
6. These sashes have pivot pins on
need to remove the old unit, cut out the rotted
each side (near the bottom rail),
section, and replace it with new wood or, if it’s
which seat into a clutch assembly in
limited, use two-part epoxy putties (see p. 163) to
the frame jambs.
rebuild the decayed part. A
s important, you will
need to figure out how water got into that area
and correct that as you prepare the opening and
7. Once sash pivot pins are engaged
install a new window.
in jamb mechanisms, swing the upper
Just how you install this unit, however, will
rail of the sash up into place, where a
depend in part on what’s there. To install a new
pair of spring-loaded tilt latches will
also seat in jamb channels. By
window by the book, as shown on pp. 131–132,
retracting the latches, you can later
you should replace old head and pan flashings,
tilt out sashes for washing. After
and, in particular, slide the top leg of the head
checking to be sure sashes operate
flashing up under exterior siding. That will
freely, replace interior stops.
require sliding a reciprocating saw blade under
the siding to cut nail shanks. Or you could tear
P R O T I P
off and then reinstall the siding above the open-
ing to ensure the building paper and siding cor-
Always replace the parting
rectly overlap the head flashing. It’s quite a job.
stops of double-hung windows.
Moreover, if it’s stucco and you don’t want an
Old stops are invariably gunked
obvious patch, this repair may mean restuccoing
up and not worth stripping—
the whole face.
besides, they usually break when
But if there’s one thing that renovation teaches
you remove them.
you, it’s that there’s more than one way to solve a
problem, even if the solution is not in the book.
1. This old multiple-casement unit had rot, so a new-
2. After scraping and vacuuming the 3. Apply self-adhesive flashing tape around the
construction window replacement was in order. When the exposed rough opening, install a rigid perimeter of the opening as the first step toward creating crew removed casing inside and out, they discovered only
sill pan or use flexible, self-adhesive
an air seal around the new window. (Note the siding to the
small finishing nails holding the frame to the rough
flashing tape to construct one. To
right and top of the opening: It was not painted because
opening. So this one was easy to lift out.
create a raised lip that will dam any
the exterior casing was applied over the siding—an
water that gets in, double the flashing odd but not uncommon way of doing things in the late
lip along the inside edge of the sil .
19th century.)
142 Chapter 6
4. To compensate for a crown in the 5. Whenever you cut into a primed 6. The frame, trimmed and resealed, is being set back into RO sill, installers flipped the unit and
surface, seal the exposed wood before the flashed opening. Center the unit in the opening, check
used a router to remove a thin strip of installing it.
for plumb and square, tack upper corners to hold the frame
material from the bottom of the
temporarily, and you’re ready to start shimming in earnest.
window sill. Note the simple but
effective use of a straight board (at
right) to create a level routing surface
on a sloping sill.
7. Shimming goes best with
8. Once the frame is shimmed and
9. After applying a bead of
10. After the exterior casing was
someone on both sides of the
secure, the crew applies a second
compatible sealant around the
complete, all seams were sealed as
opening. There’s always a lot to do,
layer of flexible, self-adhesive
perimeter of the flashing tape, the
well. Nice trick: If you hold a finger
whether prying or pushing the frame
flashing to seal any gaps between
crew installs the exterior casing—over against the nozzle while pulling the
into position, adjusting shims, or
the jamb edges and the siding. Tape
the siding, as was done throughout
caulking gun along the seam, you will
sinking screws. Here, the frame was
edges are trimmed back 1⁄2 in. from
this Craftsman-era house. The head
simultaneously compress and smooth
secured with 3-in. stainless-steel
jamb edges so the tape will be
casing installed here was, in turn,
the sealant.
flathead screws countersunk
covered by casing.
covered by a piece of metal cap
and filled.
flashing.
Doors, Windows, and Skylights
143
In the replacement sequence shown, for example, Safety glasses with wraparound lenses will pro-
a house built in late Victorian times has its exteri- tect your eyes from glass shards, irritating dust,
or casing nailed over the siding. How do you cor-
and dangerous projectiles should a power tool
rectly flash a head casing in that instance? Casing strike a hidden nail or screw. Because older win-
and flashing a replacement window in the mod-
dows often contain lead-based paint, a HEPA-
ern way is not an option because that orphan
rated respirator and a HEPA vacuum to capture
window would be glaringly obvious on a period
dust are must-haves.
house. Fortunately, the crew was experienced. By Be methodical. It might make sense, say, to
using modern materials such as flexible, self-
remove and repair all sashes at the same time but
adhesive flashing tape and a lot of ingenuity, they only if you’ve carefully noted the location of all
fashioned a weathertight solution. Sometimes,
trim pieces and sashes beforehand. Also, if there
you’ve just got to do what works.
are people in residence, move cutting and sand-
ing operations outside whenever possible, lay
Refurbishing Old Double-
tarps to protect finish floors, and vacuum period-
ically to minimize dust indoors.
Hung Windows
Finally, three tips. First, for operable sashes
Windows built 50 to 100 years ago often were
P R O T I P
(as opposed to ones that don’t move), there
constructed from fine-grained, rot-resistant fir,
should be a 3⁄16-in. space between the sash and
cypress, or redwood, woods that are no longer
If double-hung sashes require
jamb on each side—3⁄8 in. total—so there’s room
available. For that reason alone, it makes sense
too much effort to operate after
for weatherstripping as well as movement.
to refurbish rather than replace them when they
you’ve reattached sash weights,
Second, refurbish jambs, too. Pull any old nails
get tired and don’t work so well.
the weights may be too small.
or screws sticking out, sand jambs smooth, prime
To undertake this task, here are a few common- all bare wood, and then, when the paint’s dry,
sense suggestions to supplement the techniques
rub paraffin—a candle stub will do—along the
shown in the photo sequence on these two pages.
jambs to allow windows to move easily. Do the
Dress for the job. Sturdy gloves with rubber-
same with the sides of refurbished sashes. Lastly,
ized palms are essential to avoid cuts and to pro-
ace restoration carpenter Mike Davis in New
vide a secure grip on heavy window sashes.
Orleans recommends coating jamb channels with
DuPont™’s Corlar® for a slick surface, although it
is available only through industrial suppliers. A
high-gloss marine enamel works almost as well.
Davis also recommends www.conservationtech-
nology.com if you’re looking for a wide choice of
airtight seals for old windows.
1. Refurbishing starts with detective
work. Note what’s working and
what’s not and figure out why. After
removing the parting stops and
the bottom sash of a double-hung
2. If there’s not an access panel in the jambs,
3. The pros weigh sashes to ascertain how much weight
window, move the upper sash to
remove the casing carefully to get at sash weights. In
is needed to offset them. Ideally, weights should weigh
see why it’s sticking. Here, the sash
general, pulling finish nails through the casing
about the same as the sash they counterbalance so that
had swollen and was too wide for
causes less damage than pulling nails from the front.
the sash will stay at the height you set it.
the frame.
144 Chapter 6
4. Sash cords should be long enough to 5. If sashes are swollen or out of square, they can be 6. Remove loose or built-up finishes from the sash before knot at both ends—one knot around the
trimmed accurately by using a Festool® system, which
priming and painting it. If there’s cracked glass or tired
sash weight, the other inserted into the
features a guide rail that clamps to the sash and a
glazing compound, attend to it now. This scraper’s debris
side of the sash—yet short enough to
circular saw whose base is keyed to rail channels.
never becomes airborne because the tool is attached to a
keep the weight from touching the
HePA vacuum.
bottom of the cavity. Weights that hit
bottom can jam.
8. Most weatherstripping
friction-fits into slots. This type
has a “barbed” neoprene side that
resists pulling out, whereas its
7. To add weatherstripping to movable sashes, use a
Renovation 4th Edition Page 33