Renovation 4th Edition

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Renovation 4th Edition Page 33

by Michael Litchfield


  remove the bottom sash. Avoid damaging the stops so

  remove any remaining hardware such as

  they can be reused.

  pulley wheels or metal weatherstripping.

  INStAllINg WINDOW INSeRtS

  Window inserts can be installed from inside or

  outside. If you favor an exterior installation, you

  will first need to cut the window’s exterior blind-

  stops flush with the casing so the new insert

  frame can be fitted into the existing frame. Insert

  3. After surveying the opening for

  frames can be installed with the sashes left in or

  rot and checking to be sure jambs

  removed. Although the photo sequence shows

  are straight and plumb, insulate

  them removed, in this description, assume the

  between the frame and the rough

  opening. Here, cotton insulation is

  sashes remain in the frame.

  being stuffed into old pulley weight

  As shown in the photos, remove sashes and

  cavities.

  parting stops, as well as anything sticking out of

  the jambs, such as weatherstripping, stray nails,

  4. The new jamb liners, which are 31⁄2 in. wide, will seat 5. Jamb liners are held in place by a series of metal

  against the exterior stop. To attain that width, the instal-

  installation clips placed approximately 4 in. below

  ler here discovers that he must trim the edge of the sill

  the head jamb, 4 in. above the sill, and spaced evenly

  trim about 1⁄4 in.

  in between.

  6. To ensure that vinyl jamb liners snap easily onto clips,

  level the clips and install them 1⁄16 in. away from the

  exterior stop.

  Doors, Windows, and Skylights

  139

  7. Sashes seat in the jamb liners via 8. each sash has a “pin” on both

  9. To install each sash, position a sash pin above a locking terminal, then raise

  a locking terminal assembly. Before

  sides.

  the other side.

  installing the sashes of a double-

  hung unit, you must first use a

  screwdriver to pull the four

  assemblies into position.

  10. When both pins are aligned, slowly tilt up the sash, 11. Repeat this procedure with the bottom sash. After

  then press down until you feel the pins snap into the

  checking to see that sashes slide freely and seat well at

  locking terminals. Then swing the top of the sash up until

  the top and bottom, reinstall the interior stops.

  it seats in the liners.

  and the like. Old jambs should be as flat as possi-

  of the frame. Using screws provided with the kit,

  ble. Inspect the opening for rot, and repair any

  tack the top of the frame in place—there will be a

  you see, then once again ascertain that jambs are predrilled hole nearby. Raise the bottom sash and

  plumb and the frame is square: If they are not,

  lower the top one a few inches and check the

  you’ll get an idea of where you’ll need to shim.

  frame for square again.

  Don’t overshim, as that could bow the frame.

  Using a tape measure, take multiple readings

  Before installing the insert frame, bend the sill from jamb to jamb to ensure that the jambs are

  fin on the bottom of the unit so that its angle

  equidistant and the sashes slide without binding.

  matches that of the existing sill. Note: Depending The key adjustment device in the Marvin insert

  on whether you install the insert from outside or

  system shown here are two jamb jack screws

  inside the house, its frame will seat against the

  midway up each jamb. Drill pilot holes for both

  interior sash stop or the exterior sash stop (also

  jack screws, and screw them into the old frame

  called a blind stop). Center the unit in the open-

  behind until they seat. You can turn each jamb

  ing, plumb it, take diagonal readings to be sure

  jack screw clockwise to move jambs away from a

  the insert frame is square, and shim the corners

  sash, or counterclockwise to move them toward a

  140 Chapter 6

  Measuring For InSerTS

  old window frames are frequently out of square,

  even if their jambs are parallel. so when you mea-

  sure the frame’s height and width, note which

  way it leans as well, so you can order the biggest

  rectangle that will fit into that opening. makers

  of replacement windows manufacture units in

  1⁄4-in. or 1⁄2-in. increments, so when you measure

  the inside of a window frame, be accurate. Take

  three vertical measurements—from the high

  point of the sill to the head jamb—and three hor-

  izontal measurements, and select the shortest of

  each. Also measure the frame from diagonally

  opposite corners to determine if it’s square: The

  two readings will be equal if it is square.

  1. Carefully remove interior stops so you can reuse them, 2. Older windows frequently have

  By the way, measure from jamb faces, not

  then pull out the lower sash. If sash cords are attached,

  metal weatherstripping tacked to

  from parting stops; the stops will be removed

  detach them and lift the sash out of the frame.

  jambs, which needs to be removed—

  before you install the new jamb liners or frame.

  as do parting stops between upper

  and lower sashes. A flat pry bar is the

  best tool for the job; wear work

  gloves. Remove the upper sash.

  3. If there are access panels for sash

  weights, open them, lift out the

  weights, and pack the cavity with

  loose insulation. In general, don’t use

  spray foam here: even low-expanding

  foams tend to fix elements in place,

  making it difficult to adjust the width

  of a frame later.

  4. After checking the old frame for rot, dry-fit the insert 5. Center the unit in the opening, plumb it, take diagonal frame into the cleaned-up opening. Many installers prefer readings to be sure the frame is square, and shim the

  to leave the sashes in the insert, but this installer took

  corners as needed. To move jamb frames in and out, this

  them out so he could easily eyeball the perimeter of the

  insert unit relies on a pair of adjustable jack screws.

  insert frame inside and out to see how it fit.

  Doors, Windows, and Skylights

  141

  sash. Work the frame until everything is to your

  liking. Trim shims flush and caulk the perimeter

  of the insert frame, using backer rod as needed to

  fill larger gaps. If you removed interior stops,

  reinstall them now.

  INStAllINg NeW-

  CONStRUCtION WINDOWS

  When rot is present in a window frame or the

  framing material around a rough opening, you’ll

  6. These sashes have pivot pins on

  need to remove the old unit, cut out the rotted

  each side (near the bottom rail),

  section, and replace it with new wood or, if it’s

  which seat into a clutch assembly in

  limited, use two-part epoxy putties (see p. 163) to

  the frame jambs.

  rebuild the decayed part. A
s important, you will

  need to figure out how water got into that area

  and correct that as you prepare the opening and

  7. Once sash pivot pins are engaged

  install a new window.

  in jamb mechanisms, swing the upper

  Just how you install this unit, however, will

  rail of the sash up into place, where a

  depend in part on what’s there. To install a new

  pair of spring-loaded tilt latches will

  also seat in jamb channels. By

  window by the book, as shown on pp. 131–132,

  retracting the latches, you can later

  you should replace old head and pan flashings,

  tilt out sashes for washing. After

  and, in particular, slide the top leg of the head

  checking to be sure sashes operate

  flashing up under exterior siding. That will

  freely, replace interior stops.

  require sliding a reciprocating saw blade under

  the siding to cut nail shanks. Or you could tear

  P R O T I P

  off and then reinstall the siding above the open-

  ing to ensure the building paper and siding cor-

  Always replace the parting

  rectly overlap the head flashing. It’s quite a job.

  stops of double-hung windows.

  Moreover, if it’s stucco and you don’t want an

  Old stops are invariably gunked

  obvious patch, this repair may mean restuccoing

  up and not worth stripping—

  the whole face.

  besides, they usually break when

  But if there’s one thing that renovation teaches

  you remove them.

  you, it’s that there’s more than one way to solve a

  problem, even if the solution is not in the book.

  1. This old multiple-casement unit had rot, so a new-

  2. After scraping and vacuuming the 3. Apply self-adhesive flashing tape around the

  construction window replacement was in order. When the exposed rough opening, install a rigid perimeter of the opening as the first step toward creating crew removed casing inside and out, they discovered only

  sill pan or use flexible, self-adhesive

  an air seal around the new window. (Note the siding to the

  small finishing nails holding the frame to the rough

  flashing tape to construct one. To

  right and top of the opening: It was not painted because

  opening. So this one was easy to lift out.

  create a raised lip that will dam any

  the exterior casing was applied over the siding—an

  water that gets in, double the flashing odd but not uncommon way of doing things in the late

  lip along the inside edge of the sil .

  19th century.)

  142 Chapter 6

  4. To compensate for a crown in the 5. Whenever you cut into a primed 6. The frame, trimmed and resealed, is being set back into RO sill, installers flipped the unit and

  surface, seal the exposed wood before the flashed opening. Center the unit in the opening, check

  used a router to remove a thin strip of installing it.

  for plumb and square, tack upper corners to hold the frame

  material from the bottom of the

  temporarily, and you’re ready to start shimming in earnest.

  window sill. Note the simple but

  effective use of a straight board (at

  right) to create a level routing surface

  on a sloping sill.

  7. Shimming goes best with

  8. Once the frame is shimmed and

  9. After applying a bead of

  10. After the exterior casing was

  someone on both sides of the

  secure, the crew applies a second

  compatible sealant around the

  complete, all seams were sealed as

  opening. There’s always a lot to do,

  layer of flexible, self-adhesive

  perimeter of the flashing tape, the

  well. Nice trick: If you hold a finger

  whether prying or pushing the frame

  flashing to seal any gaps between

  crew installs the exterior casing—over against the nozzle while pulling the

  into position, adjusting shims, or

  the jamb edges and the siding. Tape

  the siding, as was done throughout

  caulking gun along the seam, you will

  sinking screws. Here, the frame was

  edges are trimmed back 1⁄2 in. from

  this Craftsman-era house. The head

  simultaneously compress and smooth

  secured with 3-in. stainless-steel

  jamb edges so the tape will be

  casing installed here was, in turn,

  the sealant.

  flathead screws countersunk

  covered by casing.

  covered by a piece of metal cap

  and filled.

  flashing.

  Doors, Windows, and Skylights

  143

  In the replacement sequence shown, for example, Safety glasses with wraparound lenses will pro-

  a house built in late Victorian times has its exteri- tect your eyes from glass shards, irritating dust,

  or casing nailed over the siding. How do you cor-

  and dangerous projectiles should a power tool

  rectly flash a head casing in that instance? Casing strike a hidden nail or screw. Because older win-

  and flashing a replacement window in the mod-

  dows often contain lead-based paint, a HEPA-

  ern way is not an option because that orphan

  rated respirator and a HEPA vacuum to capture

  window would be glaringly obvious on a period

  dust are must-haves.

  house. Fortunately, the crew was experienced. By  Be methodical. It might make sense, say, to

  using modern materials such as flexible, self-

  remove and repair all sashes at the same time but

  adhesive flashing tape and a lot of ingenuity, they only if you’ve carefully noted the location of all

  fashioned a weathertight solution. Sometimes,

  trim pieces and sashes beforehand. Also, if there

  you’ve just got to do what works.

  are people in residence, move cutting and sand-

  ing operations outside whenever possible, lay

  Refurbishing Old Double-

  tarps to protect finish floors, and vacuum period-

  ically to minimize dust indoors.

  Hung Windows

   Finally, three tips. First, for operable sashes

  Windows built 50 to 100 years ago often were

  P R O T I P

  (as opposed to ones that don’t move), there

  constructed from fine-grained, rot-resistant fir,

  should be a 3⁄16-in. space between the sash and

  cypress, or redwood, woods that are no longer

  If double-hung sashes require

  jamb on each side—3⁄8 in. total—so there’s room

  available. For that reason alone, it makes sense

  too much effort to operate after

  for weatherstripping as well as movement.

  to refurbish rather than replace them when they

  you’ve reattached sash weights,

  Second, refurbish jambs, too. Pull any old nails

  get tired and don’t work so well.

  the weights may be too small.

  or screws sticking out, sand jambs smooth, prime

  To undertake this task, here are a few common- all bare wood, and then, when the paint’s dry,

  sense suggestions to supplement the techniques

  rub paraffin—a candle stub will do—along the

  shown in the photo sequence on these two pages.r />
  jambs to allow windows to move easily. Do the

   Dress for the job. Sturdy gloves with rubber-

  same with the sides of refurbished sashes. Lastly,

  ized palms are essential to avoid cuts and to pro-

  ace restoration carpenter Mike Davis in New

  vide a secure grip on heavy window sashes.

  Orleans recommends coating jamb channels with

  DuPont™’s Corlar® for a slick surface, although it

  is available only through industrial suppliers. A

  high-gloss marine enamel works almost as well.

  Davis also recommends www.conservationtech-

  nology.com if you’re looking for a wide choice of

  airtight seals for old windows.

  1. Refurbishing starts with detective

  work. Note what’s working and

  what’s not and figure out why. After

  removing the parting stops and

  the bottom sash of a double-hung

  2. If there’s not an access panel in the jambs,

  3. The pros weigh sashes to ascertain how much weight

  window, move the upper sash to

  remove the casing carefully to get at sash weights. In

  is needed to offset them. Ideally, weights should weigh

  see why it’s sticking. Here, the sash

  general, pulling finish nails through the casing

  about the same as the sash they counterbalance so that

  had swollen and was too wide for

  causes less damage than pulling nails from the front.

  the sash will stay at the height you set it.

  the frame.

  144 Chapter 6

  4. Sash cords should be long enough to 5. If sashes are swollen or out of square, they can be 6. Remove loose or built-up finishes from the sash before knot at both ends—one knot around the

  trimmed accurately by using a Festool® system, which

  priming and painting it. If there’s cracked glass or tired

  sash weight, the other inserted into the

  features a guide rail that clamps to the sash and a

  glazing compound, attend to it now. This scraper’s debris

  side of the sash—yet short enough to

  circular saw whose base is keyed to rail channels.

  never becomes airborne because the tool is attached to a

  keep the weight from touching the

  HePA vacuum.

  bottom of the cavity. Weights that hit

  bottom can jam.

  8. Most weatherstripping

  friction-fits into slots. This type

  has a “barbed” neoprene side that

  resists pulling out, whereas its

  7. To add weatherstripping to movable sashes, use a

 

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