Renovation 4th Edition

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Renovation 4th Edition Page 45

by Michael Litchfield


  insulation.

  plumbed spirit level or board.

  Drywall clips

  Nail the top plate with two 16d nails per rafter

  and the sole plate with two 16d nails per joist.

  192 Chapter 8

  Two studs, lstiburek points out, are adequate structurally and, combined

  engineering studies done by the naHb research Council in the 1970s.

  with r-5 foam sheathing and full-width cavities full of insulation, they will lstiburek’s article “The Future of Framing is Here” ( Fine Homebuilding eliminate cold spots and condensation. moreover, using superfluous studs

  #174), in which these illustrations originally appeared, has more on the

  to back drywall is not a smart choice when drywall clips (p. 431) would

  subject, as does his website, www.buildingscience.com.

  allow panels to float slightly and crack less.

  incorporating these framing suggestions into an old-house renovation

  Spacing rafters, 2x6 studs, and joists 24 in. o.c. and lining up framing

  could be tricky, but they’re certainly worth considering in an addition of

  members so loads are transmitted straight down to the foundation are a few any size.

  things lstiburek recommends to save wood and make it easy to route

  plumbing, wiring, and the like. His observations build upon optimum-value

  zzzzzz a better way to Frame

  Single top plate

  No header in

  Header hangers

  nonbearing wall

  eliminate jack

  studs.

  Rigid-foam

  sheathing

  Place windows

  improves thermal

  and doors on

  performance.

  stud layout.

  2x6 at 24 in.

  on center

  Single stud at

  rough openings

  Rim joint

  Stacked framing

  For point loads,

  transfers loads

  the rim joist acts

  directly.

  as header.

  Minimize stud

  nailers at

  intersecting walls.

  Properly sized

  header with foam

  on interior

  Two-stud corner

  won't compress

  No cripples

  batt insulation.

  under ends of

  windowsill

  Structural Carpentry

  193

  zzzzzz Sizing gable-end Studs

  Rafter

  X

  Sole plate

  X

  16 in.

  16 in.

  After marking off 16-in. stud centers onto the

  Demolition is incredibly dusty and disruptive, so seal off

  sole plate, plumb up and transfer the stud marks

  one room where you can store your stuff.

  to the rafter or top plate. Once you’ve cut two

  consecutive studs, you’ll know the difference in

  length between adjacent studs, indicated by “X.”

  Cut across the faces of the studs in the angle

  established by the bevel gauge. To attach the

  studs to the plates, toenail each end with 8d nails.

  Demolition

  Before demolishing an old wall, determine

  whether it’s a bearing wall. If so, erect shoring if

  zzzzzz Kneewalls

  needed, and have a plan for rerouting electrical

  cables, pipes, or heating ducts in existing walls.

  Above all, shut off the electrical power before

  cutting into finish surfaces—and use a voltage

  tester to be sure the power is off.

  geTTing readY FOr demOliTiOn

  Drywall

  Living in a house that’s being torn apart and ren-

  ovated isn’t fun, and it can be murder on mar-

  Rafter

  riages. But you can minimize the stress caused

  2x4 top

  by disruption, noise, confusion, and dirt. If you

  plate

  don’t need to be around the house during the

  demolition, don’t; house-sit or camp out at a rela-

  2x4 stud

  tive’s if you can’t afford to rent another place. But

  if you must live where you renovate, create a

  clean zone—usually a bedroom—in which you do

  no work at all.

  Isolate the zone by covering the doorway with

  When nailing a kneewal top plate to the underside of a rafter, align the leading

  sheet plastic held up by duct tape or by installing

  edge of the top plate with the inner edge of studs. Drywal wil cover the smal

  temporary plastic walls with zippered doorways

  triangular voids where the plate meets the rafter.

  such as the ZipWall® System. Situate your

  194 Chapter 8

  Shangri-La upstairs if you can because dust set-

  durable cardboard) or 1⁄8-in. Masonite hardboard.

  tles downward. If you are beneath a room being

  A HEPA vacuum’s fine filters will capture dust,

  renovated, particularly one in bad repair, tape

  rather than recirculate it as ordinary shop vacs

  plastic to the ceiling. In the clean zone, store

  do. Disposable hooded coveralls are a good way

  clothes, stereo equipment, art—anything that

  to leave dust at the job site. Get heavy rubber

  could get ruined by the omnipresent dirt of

  trash cans, wheelbarrows, push brooms, dustpans,

  tearout. At the end of the day, go there and relax.

  square-nose shovels for scooping debris, and

  heavy canvas tarps to drape over plants or man-

  laST-minuTe PreliminarieS

  age debris outside. Rent a Dumpster for big jobs.

  P R O T I P

  Take care of these items before you start:

  eleCTriCal SaFeTY

   Notify gas, water, and electric companies

  Plaster lath nails are often

  if you haven’t done so already. Utility

  Before you cut into finish surfaces, always shut

  razor sharp and will puncture the

  representatives can tell you what temporary

  off electrical, water, and gas service to that area.

  soles of tennis shoes as easily as

  hookups are safe and who must do them.

  After disconnecting electrical power and using a

  they would a balloon. wear work

  boots with hard soles if you’re

   If you have newly purchased the building

  voltage tester to make sure the power is off, start

  and if an inspection found signs of insect

  slowly and proceed carefully. If electricity-related

  demolishing plaster surfaces.

  infestation, have a pest-control professional

  procedures described in the following sections

  treat the condition before you move in.

  are unclear, read chapter 11 and especially

  “Using a Voltage Tester” on p. 268 before con-

   Make sure your general contractor is

  tinuing. Particularly useful are inductance testers

  properly covered by insurance. Or, if you’re

  (see p. 278), penlike voltage detectors that can

  acting as your own GC, check with your

  detect electrical current through a wire’s insula-

  insurance company to make sure you and any

  tion. In other words, inductance testers do not

  helpers are covered.

  need to touch a bare conductor to detect electri-

   If you don’t have a cell ph
one, have a

  cal current.

  telephone installed so you can call for help in

  an emergency. Have a first-aid kit and fire

  Circuits. Identify circuit breakers or fuses con-

  extinguisher handy. Ensure that everyone on

  trolling electricity to the construction areas. This

  site has had a tetanus shot. And if possible, get

  will require one person at the panel to flip breaker

  help. Don’t demo alone: It’s inherently

  switches or unscrew fuses while another person

  dangerous and unpredictable work.

  watches a light fixture or a voltage tester inserted

  in a receptacle to see if the light goes out. If you

  use cell phones to communicate, you won’t need

  uSeFul TearOuT

  to scream instructions between floors.

  TOOlS and equiPmenT

  receptacles and switches. Voltage testers allow

  Many of the tools mentioned here are shown and you to see if a receptacle is energized. Always test

  discussed at greater length in chapter 3.

  a tester first on an outlet you know is hot to be

  Safety. Be sure you have a voltage tester, hard

  sure the tester is working correctly. Usually it’s

  hat, goggles or safety glasses that wrap around

  sufficient to insert the tester probe into a recepta-

  the sides of your face, a respirator mask with

  cle to get an accurate reading, but occasionally

  HEPA filters, sturdy work gloves, a droplight, and devices fail or wires become detached. To be

  shoes with thick soles. Make sure your tetanus

  absolutely certain an outlet is not live, remove

  shot is up to date, your first-aid kit is complete,

  the cover plate and—being careful not to touch

  and your cell phone is charged.

  bare metal—apply tester probes to wire ends.

  To do so safely, follow the procedures shown on

  Dismantling. Your kit should include wrecking

  pgs. 268 and 301.

  bars of various sizes (see p. 54), a flat utility bar,

  a cat’s paw, a sledgehammer, and heavy scrapers.

  Junction boxes. As you break through drywall

  Reciprocating saws with demolition blades (see

  or plaster surfaces, you may find junction boxes.

  p. 48) are the workhorses of renovation. Demo

  To get at the wires within, remove the junction

  blades typically have pointed ends that enable

  box cover. The wires inside will either be spliced

  plunge-cutting (gradually lowering a blade into a together with wire nuts or wrapped in tape.

  surface) and bimetal construction that can cut

  Using pliers with insulated handles, carefully pull

  through nails without shattering.

  wire groups out of the box and remove wire nuts

  or tape to expose wire ends. (If you are at all

  Work aids. Rent scaffolding if you’re doing a

  uneasy about handling wires, turn off all the elec-

  lot of tearout over your head. To protect finish

  tricity in the house and remove the wire nuts

  floors, you’ll need a good supply of sheet plastic,

  before proceeding.) Touch your voltage tester to

  painter’s tape, duct tape, and Ram Board (thin,

  Structural Carpentry

  195

  COnTaining THe meSS

  visually isolating the work area

  Managing the mess is crucial to a successful ren-

  ovation and, from a contractor’s point of view,

  Chip Harley, Renovation’s technical editor and a contractor for more than three

  tangible proof to your clients that you’re trying to

  decades, offers these thoughts about isolating the mess of a renovation when the

  keep them safe and comfortable. Torn-out plaster

  homeowners are living in the house:

  and drywall are nasty to handle and create nox-

  “when a job is going to run a week or longer, we isolate the work area by erect-

  ious dust. The dust gets everywhere, and the vol-

  ing temporary walls out of 2x2s, 2 ft. on center, and covering them with 1⁄8-in. door

  ume of debris is prodigious. So especially if part

  skin over a layer of plastic. The walls are strong but lightweight; the whole assembly

  of the house is going to be occupied, isolating the

  is only 50 to 60 lb. if you cut the 2x2 studs a bit long, you can pressure-fit them so

  work area and containing the dust is job one.

  there’s little damage to finish surfaces. Just a couple of screws will keep the walls

  Visually isolating the work area is also a smart

  from walking.

  move, as explained at left.

  Here are some other tips:

  “On a really short job (a day or two) in which we make only a couple of cuts, we

   Isolate the demolition area by taping

  may use an expandable pole-and-plastic system. To be fair, they’re fast to put up,

  clear plastic over door and window openings.

  but they’re not durable. if the poles get bumped you need to reset them, and it

  Clear plastic lets in light. Extendable ZipWall

  seems like you spend a lot of time taping and retaping the zipper entry or repairing

  poles allow you to raise a plastic wall quickly,

  holes where somebody’s tool belt snagged when he entered.

  and they have integral zippers in their systems.

  “The other big advantage of our temp walls over plastic is that they give both

  In front of the zipper door, hang a second

  the homeowners and the workers a safety barrier and a visual barrier—and hence a

  sheet of plastic to create an airlock of sorts.

  modicum of privacy. The longer a project runs, the more important that sense of

  Inside the work area, put a fan in the window

  separation becomes. it’s stressful having strangers in your house all day. and for a

  farthest from the entry, blowing out to move

  worker, privacy means being able to take the time you need to think through a tricky

  dust away from the entry.

  detail without having a client looking over your shoulder wondering, ‘why has he

   Finish floors are particularly vulnerable

  been scratching his head for the last five minutes?’

  to grit that isn’t swept up and to stray nails.

  “Thinking is some of the hardest work there is, and the best carpenters stop and

  think all day long.”

  the black and white wires simultaneously, then to

  each wire group and the metal box.

  hidden wires. If you unexpectedly discover

  cables running through a wall you are demolish-

  ing, stop and turn off all power in the house.

  Then snip the cable in two with a pair of insulated

  wire cutters—never do this when the power is on.

  After testing both ends of the snipped cable with

  P R O T I P

  a voltage tester to make sure that they are not

  energized, separate the black and white wires,

  blue painter’s tape is the best

  and wrap individual wire groups with electrical

  choice to stick sheet plastic to,

  say, painted door trim. but READ

  tape or cap them with wire nuts. While the power

  THE LABEL. Tape is rated accord-

  is off, also pull any staples holding the cable to

  ing to how tacky it is and hence

  the stu
ds so that you can remove the studs later

  how long you can leave it up

  without damaging the cable.

  before it will become gummy

  With the cable severed, you may proceed with

  and start pulling paint or clear

  the demolition. If the cable is to be discarded,

  finishes off.

  have a licensed electrician disconnect it from the

  entrance panel. If the cable is to be reconnected,

  reroute it after the structural work is complete

  and house all new connections in a junction box.

  Per code, all junction boxes must be accessible—

  that is, not buried in a wall. Again, for your safety,

  have an electrician do this.

  A zipped plastic entry is a good first step toward isolating

  the mess of a demolition. Use painter’s tape to attach the

  plastic to woodwork, but don’t leave the tape on past its

  day-rating or it will become gummy and lift off the finish.

  196 Chapter 8

  Sweep or vacuum floors thoroughly, then

  to the nearest stud centers on both sides so the

  cover them completely with 6-mil plastic.

  plaster edges can be renailed before you patch

  Overlap plastic seams by 6 in. and tape them

  the opening.

  with duct tape. At walls, run plastic up an inch

  On the other hand, if at least half of a room is

  or two and secure it to baseboards with blue

  to be demolished or existing plaster walls are

  painter’s tape. Over the plastic, put down a

  cracked and damaged, it may be better to gut the

  layer of Ram Board or 1⁄8-in. Masonite

  room. With wires, pipes, and old studs exposed,

  hardboard, which will protect flooring from a

  new framing and drywall will go in faster. It’s

  dropped hammer. Tape seams with duct tape.

  tough and time-consuming to patch extensively.

  P R O T I P

   Be deliberate when you demolish. Have a

  battle plan. Know what tools and helpers

  remOving dOOrS and Trim

  before storing salvaged trim,

  you’ll need, where you’ll start tearout, and

  Doors, hardware, and wood trim make a house

  remove finish nails by pulling

  which route is best for removing debris. As

  distinctive. If you want to reuse casing and mold-

  them through the back of the

  much as possible, remove materials in

  ing, carefully remove and store them until you

  wood to avoid splintering the

  manageable sizes so you won’t strain lifting it

  face. likewise, if it’s difficult to

  are done with tearout and rough framing. If

 

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