The 4x14 Parallam beam sitting atop a 2x4 top plate (bottom photo below) is
3. Get help to raise the beam one end at a
much like the hidden beam discussed in “installing a Hidden beam” in the text. in
time. If your cuts are accurate, you should be
the old days, beams of this size would have been merely toenailed to top plates. So
able to raise the beam between the severed joists
the Simpson bC4 post cap now specified by engineers is quite an improvement. it’s
and onto the top plate of one end wall and then
the other. But, invariably, the beam will get hung
simple to install and strong enough to resist uplift and lateral movement. note, too,
up on something. Here, a chain fall is invaluable
the 4x4 post directly under the beam—it’s part of the load path that goes all the
because it allows you to raise and lower one end
way down to the foundation.
of the beam numerous times without killing your
back or exhausting your crew.
When the first end of the beam is up, nail
cleats to both sides of the beam so it can’t slip
back through the opening as you raise the other
end. Raise and position the other end of the beam
atop the other end wall and directly over the 4x4
support post. Then use a metal connector such as
a Simpson BC4 (see the top photo on p. 74) or an
A-34 anchor (see the bottom photo on p. 72) to
secure the beam to the top plates.
4. Fine-tune the height of individual joists
until their lower edges are flush to the bottom of
the beam. This operation is easiest with one
worker downstairs using a 2x4 to raise or lower
the joist ends as a worker in the attic directs. As
each joist is correctly positioned, attach it to the
beam using joist hangers and the case-hardened
nails supplied with the hangers. Before attaching
joist hangers, however, use a power planer to cut
a shallow slot into the underside of each joist to
let in the hangers so they’re flush to the under-
side of the joists. If there’s not much room to
swing a hammer between joists, use a pneumatic
palm nailer to drive the nails most of the way.
Finally, along the edges of the beam slot, center
and end-nail 2x4 backing between the joists for
the finish-surface patches to come.
For more details on this complex operation,
see John Michael Davis’s article “Removing a
Bearing Wall” in Fine Homebuilding issue #152.
Structural Carpentry
213
9 Masonry
Masonry needn’t always be straight
lines. Here, clinker bricks, fieldstones,
and tile playfully conceal a drab
concrete retaining wall. (For more on
this technique, see “Dressing Up a
Concrete Wall” on p. 231.)
masons began with a plastic medium (mud and
Modern masonry employs a range of
straw) that they shaped into hard and durable
materials, including stone, brick, tile, concrete,
building units of uniform size. Second, brick-
and other minerals that become strong and dura-
making is one of the earliest examples of mass
ble when used in combination. The craft of
production. Third, basic bricklaying tools, such
masonry is ancient. The oldest surviving build-
as trowels, were so skillfully designed that they’ve
ings are stone, but stone is heavy and difficult to
changed little in 5,000 years.
work with. Brick, on the other hand, is less dura-
ble than stone but lighter and easier to use. And
clay, the basic component of brick, is found
Terms, Tools, and Tips
almost everywhere.
Unless otherwise specified, mixes and methods in
Technologically, the switch from stone to
this chapter are appropriate for brickwork as well
brick was a great leap in several respects. First,
as concrete-block work. But most of this chapter
214
is about brick and poured concrete because
concrete-block work is uncommon in renovation.
TerMs
Here’s a handful of mason’s lingo that’s frequently
confused:
Portland cement. The basic component of all
modern masonry mixtures. When water is added
to cement, it reacts chemically with it, giving off
heat and causing the mix to harden, thus bond-
ing together materials in contact with the mix.
By varying the proportions of the basic ingredi-
ents of a concrete mix, the renovator can alter
the concrete’s setting time, strength, resistance to
certain chemicals, and so on. Portland cement is
A bricklayer’s tool kit (clockwise, from upper left): 4-ft. brass-bound level, tool bag, 6-ft. folding
rule, statistical booklet (which covers estimating bricks and blocks, portland cement types, metric
available in 94-lb. bags.
conversion, and a glossary of masonry terms), 11-in. steel trowel, 51⁄2-in. pointing trowel, brick
Masonry cement. Also called mortar cement, a
hammer, two convex jointers, 4-in. brick set, box of line clips, and yellow stringline.
mix of portland cement and lime. Exact propor-
tions vary. The lime plasticizes the mix and
Basic Masonry Tools
makes it workable for a longer period. Once dry,
the mix also is durable.
Most of the tools listed in this section are hand
Aggregate. Material added to a concrete mix.
tools. Chapter 3 describes impact drills, rotary
Fine aggregate is sand. Coarse aggregate is gravel. hammers, and other useful power tools. Important:
Concrete aggregate is typically 3⁄
Wear safety goggles and a respirator when strik-
4-in. gravel, unless
specifications call for pea gravel (3⁄
ing, grinding, or cutting masonry. Errant chunks
P R O T I P
8-in. stone).
of masonry can blind you, and masonry dust is
Mortar. Used to lay brick, concrete block, stone,
not stuff you want to breathe. Cement is also
To determine
and similar materials. As indicated in “Mortar
how clean
highly caustic, so heavy gloves are also essen-
aggregate is, put about 2 in. in a
Types” on p. 217, mortar is a mixture of masonry tial—preferably rubberized ones.
quart jar and nearly fill the jar
cement and sand or of portland cement, lime,
with clean water. shake the jar.
and sand. It’s typically available in 60-lb. bags.
Trowels are indispensable masonry tools. If you
have no other tool, a trowel can cut brick, scoop
if there’s a layer of organic mat-
Grout. A mix of portland cement and sand or of
and throw mortar, tap masonry units into place,
ter or dirt 1⁄8 in. or more floating
masonry cement and sand. Mixed with enough
and shape mortar joints. A good-quality trowel
on the water, wash the entire
water so it flows easily, grout is used to fill cracks
load of aggregate carefully or get
&n
bsp; has a blade welded to the shank. Cheap trowels
and similar defects. In tiling, grout is the
a new load. Because seashore
are merely spot welded. Bricklayer’s trowels tend
cementitious mixture used to fill joints.
sand is coated with salt and its
to have blades that are 10 in. to 11 in. long.
particles have been ground
Concrete. A mixture of water, portland cement,
Pointing trowels, which look the same, have
smooth by water action, never
sand, and gravel. Supported by forms until
blades roughly 5 in. long; they’re used to shape
use it as an aggregate.
it hardens, concrete becomes a durable, mono-
masonry joints. Margin trowels are square-bladed
lithic mass.
utility trowels used for various tasks.
Reinforcement. The steel mesh or rods embed-
ded in masonry materials (or masonry joints) to
increase resistance to tensile, shear, and other
The Point of IT All
loads. In concrete, the term usually refers to steel
rebar (reinforcement bar), which strengthens
When you see the term pointing in masonry
foundations against excessive lateral pressures
texts, someone is doing something to mortar
exerted by soil or water.
joints—usually shaping or compressing them
Admixtures. Mixtures added to vary the charac-
so they weather better. Repointing or tuck-
ter of masonry. They can add color, increase plas-
pointing refers to adding (and shaping) new
ticity, resist chemical action, extend curing time,
mortar after old, weak mortar has been partially
and allow work in adverse situations. Admixtures
removed from a joint, usually with a tuck-
are particularly important when ordering con-
pointing chisel or a tuck-pointer’s grinder.
crete because mixes may contain water reducers,
curing retardants, accelerants, air entrainers, and
a host of other materials that affect strength, cur-
ing times, and workability.
Masonry
215
Jointers (striking irons) compress and shape
between existing courses or laying short runs,
P R O T I P
mortar joints, some of which are shown in
such as the sides of a chimney.
“Mortar Joints” on p. 221. The most common are
When you’re chiseling or
Mason’s levels are indispensable for leveling
bullhorn jointers, shown in the bottom photo on
grinding masonry materials,
courses and assessing plumb. Generally 4 ft. to
p. 223, and convex jointers, shown in photo 5 on
sharp debris and dust fly every-
6 ft. long, better-quality levels have an all-metal
p. 220. The half-round, concave mortar joint they
where. To protect your eyes, wear
casing and replaceable vials. As you work, be
wrap-around safety goggles with
create sheds water well.
sure to wipe wet concrete or mortar off a level
impact-resistant lenses—safety
Tuck-pointing trowels are narrow-bladed trow-
before it hardens.
glasses won’t stop missiles com-
els (usually the width of a mortar joint, 3⁄8 in.)
Brick tongs enable you to carry up to 10 bricks
ing from the side. ideally, the
used to repoint joints after old mortar has been
goggles will fit tight to your face
comfortably, as if they were in a suitcase.
cut back. Because it packs and shapes mortar,
and have air vents to keep them
Concrete tools include floats (used to level con-
this tool is both trowel and jointer and has more
from fogging up.
crete), finishing trowels (for smoothing surfaces),
aliases than an FBI fugitive: tuck-pointing trowel, and edgers (short tools that contour edges). You’ll
jointing tool, repointing trowel, striking slick,
also need a strike-off board (usually a straight
slicker jointer, slicker, and slick.
2x4) for leveling freshly poured pads. Photos of
Tuck-pointing chisels partially remove old mor-
these tools in use appear in chapter 10.
tar so joints can be repointed (compacted and
Miscellaneous tools include safety goggles,
shaped) to improve weatherability. Angle grind-
knee pads, rubber gloves, rubber boots (concrete
ers and pneumatic chisels also remove mortar.
work), a flat bar, and a homemade mortarboard
Mason’s hammers score and cut brick with the
(a platform that holds mortar near the work)
sharp end and are used to strike hand chisels
made from scrap plywood. You’ll also need sheet
with the other. The blunt end is also used to tap
plastic to cover sand or cement, a concrete mixer
brick down into mortar.
or a mortar pan, a wheelbarrow, square-nose
Brick sets have a cutting edge beveled on one
shovels, buckets, a garden hose, and stiff-bristle
side, so you can cut bricks precisely or dislodge
brushes, among other things.
deteriorated brick without damaging surround-
ing ones.
PreP TiPs
Brick cutters are rentable levered tools that pre-
The following tips will help your job go smoothly.
cisely cut or “shave” brick, as you often must do
Code. Check local building codes and get neces-
when fitting firebricks to fill gaps in a firebox.
sary permits.
line blocks (or pins) secure a long, taut line to
Water. Protect materials from rain. Because
align masonry courses. They’re less important in
water causes cement to set, sacks of portland or
renovation masonry, where you’re often filling in
mortar cement left on the ground—or on a seem-
ingly dry concrete floor—will harden and become
useless. If you store materials outdoors, elevate
sacks on a pallet or scrap lumber and cover the
pile with sheet plastic, weighting down the edges
with rocks.
Although bricks should be wetted before
being laid, don’t leave them uncovered in a down-
pour. They will absorb too much water, which
can dilute the concrete and weaken the bond.
(Concrete blocks, on the other hand, should be
laid dry. Don’t wet them beforehand.)
Sand and gravel are little affected by water,
but if they absorb a lot of water, you’ll need to
reduce the amount of water you add to a mortar
or concrete mix. Damp sand won’t ball up when
you squeeze a fistful; it contains about 1 qt. of
water per cubic foot. Wet sand will ball up and
will contain about 2 qt. of water per cubic foot.
Dripping-wet sand oozes water when you squeeze
it and will contain about 3 qt. of water per cubic
foot. Of greater concern is the purity of these
aggregates: Unload them onto an old sheet of
Brick tongs let you carry bricks as if they were in a suitcase.
216 chapter 9
plywood or a heavy (6-mil) plastic tarp to keep
>
them from being contaminated with soil or other
organic matter.
Two wythes
zzzzzz Bricklaying Terms
Weight. Masonry materials are heavy. To save
labor, have materials delivered close to the work
P R O T I P
site. Likewise, have a mortarboard within 3 ft. of
One wythe
your work area and about waist high so you don’t
Bags of cement
need to bend over to scoop mortar. For this rea-
sometimes
get a “factory pack,” which
son, scaffolding is a sensible investment if you
makes the material seem mois-
will be working higher than shoulder height.
ture hardened even though it
Divide materials into loads you can handle with-
isn’t. raise the sack 2 ft. to 3 ft.
out straining, and use ramps and wheelbarrows
above a clean, dry floor and drop
when possible. As you lift, get close to the object
it squarely on its face. if that
and lift with your knees, not your back.
shock doesn’t loosen the sack, it
Game plan. Before mixing mortar, complete pre-
has absorbed moisture and
paratory work, such as chiseling out old joints,
should be discarded.
Head joint
removing old brick, and brushing dust off receiv-
(mortar)
ing surfaces.
Bed joint (mortar)
Curing. Give masonry time to cure. Because
Course
freezing compromises strength, plan your work
(brick and mortar)
so the mortar joints or new concrete will set
before temperatures drop that low. Admixtures
can extend the temperature range in which you
can work, but exterior masonry work is easiest
Mortar Types
when the 24-hour temperature range is 40°F to
80°F. On hot summer days, start early—prefera-
Mortar is usually classified according to its strength and weatherability. The table
bly on a shady side of the house—and follow the
on p. 220 describes the correct proportions of ingredients for each.
shade around as the day progresses. Cover fresh
Type M has the highest compressive strength, at least 2,500 pounds per
work with burlap sacks, dampened periodically,
square inch (psi). This durable mix is recommended for load-bearing walls, masonry
or with sheet plastic. The longer masonry stays
below grade, and masonry not reinforced with steel.
moist, the stronger it cures.
Type S has a relatively high compressive strength (1,800 psi) and the best
Renovation 4th Edition Page 50