develoPing a floor Plan
lights they control. It should be noted that the
protection is required for other
light switch may control a receptacle (considered
receptacles, too. your local
Drawing a set of project plans can help you antic-
building code may have addi-
“lighting”) in habitable rooms except in kitchens
ipate problems, find optimal routes for running
tional requirements for gfCis.
and bathrooms.
cable, minimize mess and disruption, and in gen-
eral maximize your time and money. A carefully
aFCI protection. The NEC requires AFCI pro-
drawn set of plans is also an important part of
tection for all 120-volt, 15- or 20-amp branch cir-
the code compliance and inspection process.
cuits except those serving the kitchen, bathroom,
If you’re replacing only a receptacle, switch,
garage, and unfinished basements and attics.
or light fixture, you usually don’t need to involve
the local building department. But if you run
requireMenTs rooM by rooM
cable to extend a circuit, add a new circuit, or
Kitchen and bath appliances are heavy power
plan extensive upgrades, visit the building
users, so their circuits must be sized accordingly.
department to learn local code requirements and
bathroom circuits. Bathroom receptacles must
take out a permit. Your wiring plans should be
be supplied by a 20-amp circuit. The NEC allows
approved by a local building inspector before you
the 20-amp circuit to supply the receptacles of
start the project.
more than one bathroom or to supply the recep-
Phone first. Call the building department and
tacles, lights, and fans (excluding heating fans) in ask if local codes allow homeowners to do electri-
one bathroom. Receptacles in bathrooms must
cal work. You may be required to take a test to
be GFCI-protected, either by a GFCI receptacle
prove basic competency. This also is a good time
or a GFCI breaker. New or remodeled bathrooms to ask whether the municipality has pamphlets
must have a vent fan.
giving an overview of local electrical code
small-appliance circuits. There must be at least requirements.
two 20-amp small-appliance circuits in the kitch-
read up. Make a rough sketch of the work you
en serving the kitchen countertops. No point
propose, develop a rudimentary materials list,
274 Chapter 11
and then apply for a permit. At the time you
indicate different circuits. You can also number
apply, the building department clerk may be able
circuits, but colored circuits are distinguishable
to answer questions generated by the legwork
at a glance. Use solid lines to indicate cable
you’ve done thus far. This feedback often proves
runs between receptacles and switches and dot-
invaluable.
ted lines to indicate the cables that run between
switches and the light fixtures or receptacles
Inspectors inspect. Inspectors are not on staff
they control.
to tell you how to plan or execute a job, so make
The beauty of photocopies is that you can
your questions as specific as possible. Present
experiment with different options quickly. As you
your rough sketch, discuss the materials you
refine the drawings, refer back to the list of
intend to use, and ask if there are specific require- requirements given earlier to be sure that you
ments for the room(s) you’ll be rewiring. For
have an adequate number of receptacles, that
example, must bedroom receptacles have AFCI
you have GFCI receptacles over kitchen counters,
protection? Must kitchen wall receptacles be
that there are switches near doorways, and so on.
GFCIs if they are not over a counter? Be specific.
Ultimately, you’ll need a final master drawing
draw up plans. Based on the feedback you’ve
with everything on it. But you may also find it
gotten, draw detailed plans. (Pages 276–277 show helpful to make individual drawings—say, one
a set of detailed electrical plans.) They should
for lighting and one for receptacles—if the mas-
include each switch, receptacle, and fixture as
ter drawing gets too busy to read.
well as the paths between switches and the
If you have questions or want to highlight a
device(s) they control. From this drawing, you
fixture type, use callouts on the floor plan. As you
can develop your materials list. Number each cir-
decide which fixtures and devices you want to
cuit or, better yet, assign a different color to each
install, develop a separate materials list and use
circuit. When you feel the plans are complete,
numbered keys to indicate where each piece goes
schedule an appointment with an inspector to
on the master drawing. Finally, develop a list of
review them.
all materials, so you’ll also have enough boxes,
listen well and take notes. Be low-key and
cable connectors, wire connectors, staples, and
respectful when you meet with the inspector to
so on. In short, list all you need to do the job.
review your plans. First, you’re more likely to get
your questions answered. Second, you’ll begin to
Tools and Materials
develop a personal rapport. Because one inspec-
You don’t need a lot of expensive tools to wire a
tor will often track a project from start to finish,
house. This section introduces basic tools you’ll
this is a person who can ease your way or make it use most often. Scan chapter 3 for essential safety
much more difficult. So play it straight, ask ques-
tools such as safety glasses, work gloves, respira-
tions, listen well, take notes, and—above all—
tors, as well as layout and cleanup tools. All
don’t argue or come in with an attitude.
materials must be UL- or NRTL-listed, which
on-site inspections. Once the building depart-
indicates they meet the safety standards of the
ment approves your plans, you can start working. electrical industry.
In most cases, the inspector will visit your site
The first test of any tool is that it fit your hand
when the wiring is roughed in and again when
comfortably; the second, that it feels solid and
the wiring is finished. Don’t call for an inspection well made. Better tools tend to be a bit heftier
until each stage is complete.
and cost more.
eleCTriCal noTaTion
hand Tools
Start by making an accurate floor plan of the
All hand tools should have cushioned handles
room or rooms to be rewired on graph paper
and fit your hand comfortably. Manufacturers
using a scale of 1⁄4 in. = 1 ft. Indicate walls and
now make tools in various sizes, so choose the
permanent fixtures such as countertops, kitchen
ones right f
or you. Don’t scrimp on quality.
islands, cabinets, and any large appliances.
Pliers and strippers. Lineman’s pliers are the
By photocopying this floor plan, you can
workhorse of an electrician’s toolbox. They can
quickly generate to-scale sketches of various
cut wire, hold wires fast as you splice them, and
wiring schemes.
twist out box knockouts. Needle-nose (long-nose)
Use the appropriate electrical symbols
pliers can grasp and pull wire in tight spaces.
(p. 276) to indicate the locations of receptacles,
These pliers can loop wire to fit around recepta-
switches, light fixtures, and appliances.
cle and switch screws. A large pair can also loos-
Especially when drawing kitchens, which can
en and remove knockouts in metal outlet boxes.
be incredibly complex, use colored pencils to
electrical Wiring
275
Common electrical symbols
lighting and switches layer
A running 12/2 cable will accommodate the dish-
zzzzzz
Duplex
receptacle
washer circuit.
B use 14/2 cable for all general lighting home runs
GFCI duplex
(cable runs back to the service panel).
receptacle
C verify the dimmer load; dimmers must be de-rated
Fourplex
when ganged together.
receptacle
240v
receptacle
Weatherproof duplex
receptacle
Duplex receptacle,
split-wired
Single-pole
switch
Three-way
switch
Switch
leg
Home run
(to service panel)
Recessed
light fixture
Wall-mounted
fixture
Ceiling
Power layer
outlet
Wir
A
e the gfCi receptacle at the beginning of the
Ceiling pull
run so it affords protection to receptacles downstream.
switch
B dishwasher/disposal circuit. install under the
Junction
sink in the cabinet. Cut the hot (brass) tab on the
box
receptacle to split the receptacle for two circuits.
leave the neutral (silver) tab intact. be sure to install
Vent
fan
on a two-pole breaker with a handle tie.
C single-location gfCi protection.
Ceiling
fan
D stove is gas, so the receptacle is only for the
igniter and clock and is ok to run with the hood. leave
Telephone
outlet
nM cable stubbed at the ceiling, and leave 3 ft. to 4 ft.
of slack for termination in the hood/trim. (note: never
Two-wire
cable
run a stove igniter off a gfCi-protected circuit because
Three-wire
it will trip the gfCi every time the stove is turned on.)
cable
E use 12/3 cable for the home run, so a single cable
takes care of the dedicated refrigerator circuit and the
countertop receptacle (small-appliance) circuit.
F home run for counter (small-appliance) circuit 2.
G oven outlet. refer to unit specifications to verify
receptacle or hard-wired connection.
276 Chapter 11
electrical Plan: lighting and
switches layer
a professional’s electrical floor plan may be daunting at first, but it will start to make
sense as you become familiar with the symbols used. To make the plans easier to
read, they have been divided into two layers: (1) lighting and switches and (2)
power, which consists of receptacles and dedicated circuits. (There’s some overlap.)
The circled letters are callouts that indicate areas warranting special attention. The
circled numbers correspond to a master list of lighting fixtures that the electrician
Pendant lights in the dining area are noted
developed with the architect. drawing switch legs and circuits in different colors
by a dotted green switch leg running from
the two ceiling boxes to the singlepole
makes a plan much easier to read.
switch on the wall.
A
B
C
All circuits for recessed, pendant, and
undercabinet lighting are noted in
different colors. Be certain to track each
circuit back to the appropriate wall switch.
electrical Plan: The Power layer
This kitchen remodel is typical in that it has many dedicated circuits (also
called designated circuits) and, per code, at least two 20-amp small-appliance
circuits wired with #12 cable. Circled letters are callouts that correspond to
the lettered notes at left.
F
A
Whether for 120v wall outlets or 240v
appliance outlets, each circuit should end
B
with a home run back to the service panel.
G
D
C
E
Any receptacle that serves the countertop
must be GfCI protected. refrigerators,
however, should be run on a nonGfCI
receptacle.
electrical Wiring
277
Diagonal-cutting and end-cutting pliers can cut
wires close in tight spaces; end cutters (some-
electrical Testers
times called nippers) also pull out staples easily.
A multipurpose or combination stripping tool is
Testing to see if a circuit or device is energized is crucial to safety and correct wiring.
used to strip individual wires of insulation, cut
The first three items below are voltage testers, and some perform multiple functions.
wire, crimp connections, and quickly loop wire
non-contact testers can provide a reading without directly touching a conduc-
around screw terminals.
tor. They often allow you to detect voltage without having to remove cover plates and
A cable ripper (see p. 279) strips the plastic
expose receptacles or switches. insert its point into receptacle slots; or touch the
sheathing from Romex® cable without harming
tool’s tip to an outlet, a fixture screw, or an electrical cord. if the tip glows red, it
the insulation on the individual wires inside.
means there’s voltage present. non-contact testers rely on battery power.
Many pros use a utility knife to strip sheathing,
plug-in circuit analyzers or polarity testers can be used only with three-hole
but that takes practice and a light touch to avoid
receptacles, but they quickly tell you if a circuit is correctly grounded and, if not, what
nicking the insulation of individual wires.
the problem is. different light combinations on the tester indicate various wiring prob-
For remodel work, you may need a plaster
lems, such as no ground and hot and neutral reversed. They’re quite handy for quick
chisel, flat bar, and a drywall saw.
home inspections.
solenoidal voltage testers (often called wiggies) test polarity as well as aC
PoWer Tools
/> voltage, and dC voltage from 100v to 600v. They also test dC voltage from 100v to
Buy power tools that are appropriate to your
600v. Most models vibrate and light a bulb when current is present. solenoidal testers
strength and to the task at hand. More powerful
don’t use batteries, so readings can’t be compromised by low battery power. however,
tools tend to be heavy and hard to manage, and
because of their low impedance, solenoid testers will trip gfCis.
for wiring, they’re often overkill. If possible,
in addition to voltage testers, get a continuity tester to test wire runs and con-
test-drive a friend’s power tool before buying
nectors for short circuits or other wiring flaws prior to energizing the circuit.
your own.
a right-angle drill allows you to fit the drill
useful but not essential
head between studs or joists and drill perpendic-
multimeters offer precise readings in multiple scales (in both aC and dC), which
ular to the face of the lumber. The pros use drills
you select beforehand. expensive and extremely sensitive, multimeters can detect
with 1⁄2-in. chucks such as the Milwaukee Hole-
minuscule amounts of voltage but, in truth, they offer more functionality than most
Hawg, the DeWalt stud and joist drill, and so on.
nonprofessionals need.
They’re very versatile tools. It’s not necessary to
neon voltage testers are inexpensive and widely available, but there’s a danger
get a drill with a clutch; such tools tend to be
of touching their bare metal probes and getting shocked. a neon voltage tester is
very heavy and expensive—overkill even for wir-
better than nothing at all, but most pros wouldn’t be caught dead with one in their
ing a whole house. A right-angle, D-handle drill
tool belt.
and a sharp bit are more than adequate.
Spade bits cut quickly but tend to snap in
harder wood. For this reason, most pros prefer
auger bits. Self-feeding chipper bits drill doggedly
through hard, old wood but won’t last long if they
hit nails. A 7⁄8-in. Greenlee® Nail Eater® bit is a
wise buy if your old lumber is nail infested; many
companies offer similar nail-eater bits.
Electrical testers. Clockwise from lower left: analog
multimeter, noncontact voltage tester, plugin circuit
analyzer, neon voltage tester, and solenoidal voltage tester.
An 18in. auger bit—also called a ship’s auger—bores
Renovation 4th Edition Page 65