by Nic Lomax
‘England’ Kai offered ‘it’s a great swell today guys, some impressive waves’ he added. The mood in the water had changed as quickly as the autumn light was fading, Salty shifted uncomfortably on his board as they sat perched waiting for the next set.
‘You are not welcome here,’ sneered the marked guy. Kai was about to protest but an eight foot plus set had appeared out of nowhere and he figured he would let his riding do the talking. He pushed past his attacker using deep fluid strokes, and turned his board as the wave approached from behind. He felt it pushing him forward, the surge of water walling up as his board roared to life, and as Kai effortlessly glided down the line, the lip broke over the top of him and he suddenly became enclosed within the barrel. It was a cavernous green room he had entered, and he made his escape before it churned him on to the unforgiving reef. It exploded, blowing him out and into the channel. The small crowd, now far away, hooted and punched the air, and he knew he had gained their respect and hopefully a few more waves on this phenomenal reef.
The strangers became brethren and they surfed together until dusk before sharing a few beers and stories in the car park. Sleep came all too easy for the duo as they camped out in the Volvo. The cars suspension creaked with the gusts of wind that blew from the sea, and Kai woke up just before dawn haunted by the feelings of what he had left behind. As he sat on the bonnet staring into the darkness, Salty appeared with a much welcomed spliff and sat down next to his friend.
‘The stars don’t have the answer my amigo’ he said sparking the joint. They sat in silence for a while and smoked.
‘Salt, do you think I will always be running away?’
‘No man but I think you will always be searching, and that’s not such a bad thing’.
They both lay back against the windscreen just as dawn was beginning to show her warming face, a shooting star grazed over the blue horizon. Below the cliff, the surf crashed against the reef sending shockwaves through the earth. It was going to be another magical day. They turned and smiled at each other in the dingy light.
‘Dawn patrol’ they said in unison.
Amber was gutted about Kai leaving, but she was making every effort to get on with things. She could easily afford to stay in the beach side flat they had rented together, but although she missed him terribly, life went on. She had a great bunch of friends that were trying to get her out all the time, and she would occasionally oblige. The house party was never going to be a good idea as it was at Kai’s nemesis, Grants place, but why fucking not. He was the one that had just given up on everything and discarded their relationship, like child with an unwanted toy. She was going to make sure that Kai knew what he had left behind. It didn’t take much effort for her to glam up as Amber was naturally a stunner. Apply a short skirt and low cut top and there wasn’t many that could resist this siren.
The evening went without hitch, and as usual the boys seemed to get far too drunk to annoy her, and this is exactly what she wanted. Numerous photos to flood social media, scores of selfies of her draped across good looking young men, many within Kai’s extended social circle. She wasn’t ready to move on but she knew jealousy was part of Kai’s Achilles heel, and she was right.
Kai and Salty’s adventure saw them head south past Bordeaux to the famous surf town of Hossegor. The area offered a wealth of waves, budget accommodation and bars. It was a wicked combination that would lay the foundation of Kai’s future, and lay waste to Salty’s.
Kai hadn’t bothered with being connected since he’d left the U.K, he’d turned his phone off and hadn’t hooked up with his crew. As a consequence his blood boiled once he had discovered the various photos splashed across social media that lay in wait for him like a coiled cobra ready to strike. This wasn’t like her, every time he scrolled down the page, there she was with another guy, looking like she was having a great time. Salty had tried to offer his pearls of wisdom that this was Kai’s green light to start playing the field and score with the French chicks that were all clearly interested in him. But this had no effect on him, deep down he was utterly gutted and the only score that Kai was interested in was getting wasted.
The boys were hitting the Desperados and shots at Rock Food Bar which was set right on the beach, where Kai could drink like the fish he was. This only posed one problem. He could become a little lairy, which mirrored the way he rode waves and his stance on life in general. By 9pm the well-oiled pair had attracted a couple of the local girls to their area of the dance floor and things were going smoothly- that was until the boyfriends of the two girls had appeared without warning, and weren’t too happy with the English boys making moves on their chicks. It was unclear who threw the first punch. What was clear was that Salty hit the deck within seconds of that punch! Kai could hold his own but the thickly set Frenchie’s had numbers and sobriety on their side. Stu came out of nowhere and his left hook caught the bigger bloke off guard and sent him crashing into the bar and on to the floor. He then set his attack on the second guy who was clearly a skilled fighter but could not combat the stranger’s blows to the head. Their victory was short lived as the bouncers surrounded them and threw them crudely out the back door with a good kicking to boot.
Kai made sure Salty was comfortable on the floor as he was still a little woozy from the clean knockout punch, and then turned his attention to the random bloke who had helped them out.
‘Hey man thanks for stepping in, what’s your name?’
‘No worries those goons weren’t playing fair and your mate clearly wasn’t gonna last. My names Stu, I saw you out the other day man, you rip!’ he slurred, also slightly drunk.
‘Cheers man! You been here a while? What’s your plans for the rest of the season?’
‘This is just the beginning my friend, my training ground for the next step’, Kai noted Stu’s broad shoulders, Californian tan and smooth American accent.
It was this line of conversation that zapped away the feelings of loss towards Amber and sent his mind racing on images of distant shores and perfect waves.
The following morning was a clouded affair, mostly due to the amounts of alcohol and cannabis consumed the previous night. Couple this with the battle scars of their encounter with the local heavies, it might be considered that this was not the best day to hit the waves, but Kai was not one to disappoint and the south westerly swell was not one to be missed. Salty had decided to sit this session out. Partly due to the injuries he had sustained from the fight, but mostly because the surf was too large and he was simply outclassed by Kai and Stu’s skills. He watched them from the shore and felt pangs of jealousy as they caught the unforgiving waves that crept from the horizon, intent on destroying anything that lay in their path.
Kai felt good and for the following weeks he rode world class surf with someone who enjoyed pushing the limits just as much as him. Kai and Stu felt the same drive and passion and Stu was someone they could run with and escape the past that he wanted to forget. Back on the beach the trio began planning the next phase of the trip. The temperature was dropping now both on land and in the water, and it seemed like the only logical destination was the warm waters of North Africa. The only problem was Salty knew he was out his depth and that he couldn’t compete at the next level.
The wind had switched onshore and the clouds bubbled up from the west threatening rain, Salty had just cracked another Desperado and took a gulp of the cold elixir.
‘Hey Kai, I’ve been thinking Bro, I reckon its time I head back to the U.K’
Kai was visibly taken back by the words that tumbled from Salty’s mouth and the beach bonfire spat and cracked as if to mimic his thoughts.
‘Salt what do you mean, you’ve always wanted to go to Morocco, Stu say’s its epic, the place is dirt cheap, riddled with hash and a true wave-rich nation. It’s the adventure we’ve always dreamed of man’
‘No brother that’s your dream, plus I’m not ready for that man, you guys are way out of my league when it comes to style and abilit
y’
Stu felt obliged to try and entice Salty by the offer of training him, and binding the group together, but it was no use, and Salty had made his mind up right there on the beach. The rain came down quickly and dampened the fire, and their moods collectively followed suit.
The following day they all mounted the trusty Volvo for the final mission south to Biarritz. This would be the ultimate destination for Salty, as Kai had entrusted the Volvo to him and a small kitty of two hundred euros to secure his new adventure home. Kai couldn’t understand Salty’s decision, it was so knee-jerk and out of character that he had to investigate it further while they consumed their farewell beers at the notorious Newquay Bar, which also happened to be Stu’s favourite local haunt.
‘Salty you’ve had my back since I can remember, we could both tear up Morocco with Stu… what’s the deal?’
‘Bro it’s cool, I just finally realised, sat there watching you dudes ripping it up, that I was your stepping stone. And now you’ve crossed on to the higher plane and there’s no point in me trying to pretend.’
Kai was dumbfounded by this statement almost to the point of anger. He felt that he had now not only used his girlfriend, but played his friend for a fool as well. He quickly sunk his shot of tequila and settled in to his chair. The music was so loud it was a relief that he didn’t have to converse as he contemplated his emotions that brewed within his mind like an unfolding storm. The alcohol had its desired effect, and some Irish girls had taken quite a shine to the boys from Dorset along with their Californian compadre. Kai had led the pretty blonde outside and was headed back to hers in a daze when suddenly he found himself alone walking aimlessly into the night. The moons glow illuminated the rugged headland before him where he and Amber had spent many an evening, admiring the last throws of summer exquisitely finished in a sunset’s lusty glaze.
Chapter 3
The Kalima
It was an emotional scene at Biarritz airport and one that would remain raw in Kai’s memory for a considerable amount of time. Salty had one last offering of wisdom and as they embraced for the final time he whispered to Kai “watch your back and trust your instincts”. Kai then saw his trusty steed carry Salty off into the distance and his final words resonated around his skull like a shamans preaching. Kai found himself reaching for his phone as he entered the airport. He felt like he owed it to Amber to let her know where he was heading and what had happened with Salty.
Amber was surprised to see Kai’s number pop up on screen and she suddenly found she was filled with an immense feeling of warmth, like he was there with her. Her tone was smug at first as she thought her plans of jealousy had taken root and were working their magic. Her bubble was quickly burst and she could feel the tears rolling down her flushed cheeks as Kai mentioned the next destination which he intended on visiting.
‘So me and Stu are hitting Taghazout just north of Agadir, it has a killer point break which is world class!’ Kai paused almost stuttering the next sentence…
‘And…I would really like to see you down there…with me? What do you reckon?’
‘What do I reckon? I reckon you should have realised what you had before you tossed it away Kai, you can’t expect me to come running every time you call’
Although all she really wanted was to be swept up into his arms and held tight. She was going to be in control this time.
‘Enjoy your trip Kai.’
Amber hung up the phone and smiled to herself. It could only be fate that had led to her best friend Marina booking their yoga retreat in the exact same village in southern Morocco only two days earlier. She looked out of the window, the light had lifted with her mood and she truly glowed with the anticipation of being back with him again.
Kai was numb from the conversation. He felt a tide of emotion sweep over him. It was his turn to feel loss, Salty and Amber were gone and he was travelling to a new continent with someone he barely knew. It was Kai’s turn to quiz Stu a little as the plane was in taxi before take-off. Stu, or Stuart Schumacher, was the youngest son of an oil barren, and was living the American dream of never having had a job, aside from scouring the planet looking for potential surf, and this made Kai extremely jealous. It was difficult to determine his age as his face bore the scars of repeated sun and salt damage and past wounds of battles won and lost.
Stu did clearly enjoy the company of the younger female and couldn’t help but try, and fail, to hit on the airhostesses who were clearly paying Kai far more attention.
‘Ah to be the stallion again’ he sniped and tipped the vodka and coke down in one. ‘Just wait till we hit those warm waves man! It’s gonna be killer’. He grinned and kicked back in his seat and closed his eyes.
‘I just hope I’m ready for what’s in store for us man, I feel out of shape’ Kai’s ego had shrunk somewhat and he was hungry to have his confidence built a little.
‘You’re ready brother, you’re like a pit bull, you lack hesitation and that is very rare in this world’ he paused ‘it’s kinda why I chose to ride with you.’
‘Thanks man, I’m stoked to be heading into the void!’ Kai was elated to be in the company of someone who shared the stoke as much as he did, this was what life was about. Kai felt that discovery and passion were intertwined. Not too many people strayed from the path and chose this life, and he was going to make sure he lived for every second that he existed. The turbulence going over the Atlas Mountains disturbed Kai’s from his dreams of Amber and he woke with a stream of sweat trickling down his temple. Stu was awake too, busy sending a WhatsApp. He looked shifty, as though he had been busted doing something he shouldn’t be when he noticed Kai was awake and quickly placed the phone in his bag, blurting ‘only an hour till touch down my friend, and then the fun begins!’
Little did Kai know what was waiting for them both in the dusty city below. The sun was just rising, casting shadows of the protruding hills over the Atlantic that was alive with a new swell pushing down the coast from the north. By the time they had collected their boards, tussled with immigration and found a suitable hire car, the sun was high in the sky but was beset with an orange glow that engulfed the heavens all the way to the horizon, as though there had been a volcanic eruption. ‘Kalima’ spat the taxi driver wiping the desert dust from the battered Mercedes windscreen that was parked next to their battered Suzuki jeep. “Kalima” was the term used when desert storms blew strong easterly winds from the Sahara, dragging with it a course of orange dust, and on fiercer gusts sometimes carried swarms of locusts which evoked the feelings of something biblical or otherworldly.
Stu was first to navigate the chaotic roads that skirted round the city of Agadir, and he took the barrage of erratic traffic in his stride like a true ex-pat veteran. The potholed roads were filled with every type of vehicle imaginable from ancient HGV’s to horse drawn cart all making deranged manoeuvres that were only inches away from collision. Kai lodged himself in his seat and braced, wincing every time a car overtook head on straight into their path. Somehow, the boards remained on the roof and the traffic begun to thin as they finally broke free from the southern capitals dusty grip. Kai at last caught a glimpse of the blue ocean that unrolled through the vista before him, and he felt the warm assurance that only the sea could give him. It settled his nerve and he once again began to smile.
Taghazout suddenly came into view, nestled against the point that jutted into the ocean. The pretty fishing village was a quaint tumble down affair that can only be described as a hippy frontier settlement. Its long cove sheltered by the point was strewn with traditional wooden fishing boats that religiously set out at dawn, braving whatever conditions the Atlantic threw at them. The main street was like stepping back in time, the dusty souks and shanties selling spices, fish and trinkets, while goats and stoned travellers casually sauntered out into the African sun. Stu parked the jeep and set about removing the boards from the roof. Kai was taking his time, drinking in the eccentric scenes before him which nearly got him run o
ver by rickety old bus. This quickly snapped him back to reality, and Stu beckoned him over the road.
‘Welcome home bro! This is gonna be our pad for as long as we want, its only 30 euros a week man’
‘Stu! That’s an absolute bargain! But I don’t see a hotel man?’
‘Well, actually it belongs to a very good friend of mines, you’re gonna love it!’
Stu was right. He knocked on the bulky wooden door, which was opened by a very cheerful Moroccan gent. He seemed to embrace Stu like family and quickly turned his attention to Kai ‘Salam’ (translates: welcome, peace be with you) he beamed and hugged him.
‘What is mine is yours my friend, anything you need tea, tagine, spliff! Just say’ Abdulla spoke through a toothless grin and Kai immediately warmed to him. ‘That’s very good of you, thanks again’
They were led inside the white wash crumbling home which offered cooling shade from the midday sun. It was like a hobbit hole and both of them ducked as they were led around the labyrinth of Abdulla’s home. He rented out the top floor which consisted of two rooms and a basic toilet and shower room, which was a plastic hose pipe. The middle floor was fitted with a communal lounge and kitchen. Their new abode was complete with a sea view that covered the point that was famed world over for the breath taking surf that trundled down the coast, offering world class waves. Kai was in dreamland.
Abdulla introduced them to his entire extended family. He had named his fledgling surf hostel business after his son Ilya and he was immensely proud. Kai and Stu were to be treated as one of the family anytime they wanted food or drink they just had to ask. The boys quickly stashed their belongings and made their way onto the beach to grab some waves, the water was obviously significantly warmer and only a summer wet suit was now necessary. They made the six hundred metre paddle out to the head of the point look easy, and this is where the swell made contact with the shallow reef and began to break fiercely all the way to the inside of the bay. The sun shone on Kai and Stu that day and nothing could extinguish the fires of joy that burned within them.