TEACH IT:
When performing limp, your dog raises his front paw while hopping on the other three. This pitiable performance can garner a free hot dog or maybe even a hot date!
1 Stand facing your leashed dog and loop the free end of the leash under his front wrist, suspending it in the air.
2 Encourage your dog to come toward you, saying “come on boy, limp.” Praise and reward even one step with his free front leg. Allow your dog to rest between attempts.
3 Lighten your grip on the leash and use quick jerks rather than sustained force to encourage your dog’s wrist up. Have him walk a few steps now before rewarding.
4 Fashion a sling out of fabric and loop it through your dog’s collar so that it suspends his wrist. Smart dogs will figure out that they can lower their head to get out of this mess, so keep your dog’s attention high as you lure him forward with a treat. You want your dog to be successful, so only ask him to do a distance he can achieve.
WHAT TO EXPECT: This trick is physically as well as mentally tiring for your dog. It takes concentration for him to remember to keep the one paw lifted. As in every case where you are physically manipulating your dog, do so gently and reassuringly so as not to intimidate him. This trick can take months to master.
TROUBLESHOOTING
I’VE SEEN MY DOG LIMP WHEN I’VE DRESSED HIM IN A SHOE. CAN I USE THAT?
Absolutely! If you can elicit the behavior, associate it with the verbal cue “good limp!” As he improves, substitute the shoe with something smaller such as a baby’s sock or tape.
WHEN DO I TRANSITION FROM USING THE LEASH TO USING THE SLING?
Switching tactics can often speed progress. Try a few repetitions with the leash, then one with the sling, then one suspending his wrist with your hand.
BUILD ON IT! Once you’ve mastered limp, learn crawl (page 144) and play dead (page 32) to act out doggy’s dramatic death scene.
TIP! Dogs usually have a dominant side. Which paw does your dog prefer to raise in a shake? Work with this paw in his limp.
“I like staying in hotels. I get to drink from the ice bucket and sleep on the bed!”
STEPS:
1 Loop the leash under his front paw.
2 Reward a step with his free front paw.
3 Use quick jerks to remind your dog to keep his paw lifted.
4 Have your dog limp several steps before rewarding.
expert
Pickpocket Pooch
VERBAL CUE
Pocket
TEACH IT:
As you bend over to (presumably) pick up your hat, your dog swipes a kerchief from your pocket and sends you sprawling.
1 With your back to your dog, bend over with legs apart and knees bent. Hold a treat in your left hand at your tailbone. Encourage your dog to rise up and take the treat by saying “pocket, get it!”
2 Once your dog is performing consistently, bend over and reach with your right hand toward the ground, while still offering the treat with your left at your tailbone.
3 This time, hold the treat in your right hand instead of your left. When your dog places his paws on your tailbone, roll forward in a summersault and offer the treat in a backward motion with your right hand at the end of your roll. Practice while wearing socks, and take care to not to kick your dog.
4 Add the kerchief element by placing it in your back pocket and encouraging your dog to “take it” (page 24).
WHAT TO EXPECT: The difficulty in this skit will be in making the performance believable, without any noticable cues. The individual behaviors, however, can be learned within a few weeks.
PREREQUISITES
Take it (page 24)
TROUBLESHOOTING
WHEN I HOLD THE TREAT IN MY RIGHT HAND AT THE GROUND, MY DOG GOES FOR THAT HAND INSTEAD OF MY TAILBONE
Use a treat bag at your waist or hold the treat in your mouth for easy access.
MY DOG IS TOO SMALL TO REACH MY TAILBONE ON HIS HIND LEGS
Small dogs can actually be the cutest ones for this trick. Instead of merely pushing your rear, they can learn to bounce off it with all four paws!
TIP! Have a conversation with your dog. He can understand the tone of your voice and your body language.
STEPS:
1 Bend over and offer a treat with your left hand at your tailbone.
2 Reach down with your right hand, while holding the treat with your left.
3 Hold the treat in your right hand as you reach down.
Roll forward in a summersault.
Take care to not kick your dog.
Give the treat by reaching behind with your right hand.
4 Use the “take it” cue for the kerchief in your pocket.
advanced
Play the Piano
VERBAL CUE
Music
TEACH IT:
Your dog will play a standard or toy piano by pounding the keys with his paws. Relaxing, isn’t it?
1 Set your dog in front of a toy piano on the floor and lure him forward with a treat. As soon as he places a paw anywhere on the piano, immediately give him the treat and praise him. Be sure the treat is given while your dog is still standing on the piano.
2 The next step is to get your dog to raise and lower his paws on the piano. This will require precise timing and positioning on your part. Lure him into position, so that both paws are resting on the piano keys. Encourage him to lift one paw, by either telling him to “shake” (page 22) or by tapping the back side of his paw. Reward him when he puts the paw back down on the piano. His tendency will be to to put his paw down behind the piano, on the floor, so use your treat to keep his attention forward.
3 Practice one paw at a time, switching back and forth with every successful key press. Sometimes, it helps to lean your body in the opposite direction of the lifted paw. Praise should be given for placing the paw down on the piano, rather than for lifting it.
4 Stand back and let your dog play on his own! Substitute the “music” cue for “shake” and “paw.”
WHAT TO EXPECT: Although this trick appears simple, the action required is a noninstinctive one. Your dog is usually rewarded for lifting his paw, rather than for lowering it.
PREREQUISITES
Helpful: Shake hands (page 22)
TROUBLESHOOTING
MY DOG IS SCRATCHING AT THE PIANO
Do not reward scratches, but calm your dog by slowly saying “easy.” Go back to tapping the back of each paw to emphasize the lifting.
MY DOG SOMETIMES MISSES THE KEYS
Use a cardboard barrier to keep your dog from putting his paws too far forward, or be quick to tap them with your finger when they land in the wrong spot.
BUILD ON IT! Learn rollover (page 31) to have your dog finish the song with a flourish by rolling on the keys!
TIP! If you’re mad or frustrated, end the training session and try again later.
“I have my own bed. It has my name on it. Sometimes, kitty sleeps on it and gets it stinky.”
STEPS:
1 Lure your dog forward with a treat.
2 Cue your dog to “shake” or tap his paw.
3 Lean with your dog to encourage lifting his paw.
Alternate lifting each paw.
4 Stand up while continuing to cue your dog.
Such beautiful music!
expert
World’s Dumbest Dog
TEACH IT:
There are many variations to this trick based upon the premise that through performance art your dog responds to subtle cues making it appear that he is doing something opposite of what he has been instructed. Below are four examples:
1 “Jump, Fido, jump through the hoop of fire!” Your dog instead hides his eyes. How is this pulled off? First of all, Fido’s cue for jumping through a hoop is “hup” and not “jump.” Secondly, “Fido” is not your dog’s name, and thirdly, your dog is responding to your subtle hand signal cueing him to cover his eyes (page 200). Finish this skit by saying “Fido, that cute F
rench poodle is watching the show…” and signalling him to jump into action and through the hoop!
2 “Fido is such a well-behaved dog; he never goes in the trash.” Upon turning your back to him your dog runs immediately to the wastebasket. How is this done? A treat is placed in the wastebasket, and your dog is told to stay. Upon hearing his release command, such as the word “OK” used while speaking to your audience, he will eagerly run to the trash.
3 “Where did my dog go? Has anyone seen him?” As you scan the audience your dog peeks out from between your legs. Your dog, of course, is responding to your peekaboo (page 52) signal.
4 “Jump through the hoop!” To your feigned embarrassment, your dog plays dead on the floor. Your dog responded to your hand signal to play dead (page 32).
WHAT TO EXPECT: One of the more difficult elements in this trick is getting your dog to perform a behavior behind your back, without eye contact. Dogs often will run around to look into your face. Pattern train your dog by training the exact same way every time.
TIP! Watch for signs of anxiety in your dog when teaching a new trick: scratching, yawning, licking his lips, looking away.
TROUBLESHOOTING
MY DOG HAS TROUBLE STAYING STILL
Eye contact can be a powerful cue for your dog—make contact when you want him to do something, and look away when you wish him to stay.
“Sometimes, I like to pretend I don’t understand anything my owner says.”
STEPS:
1 “Fido, jump through the flaming hoop of death!”
2 “Fido is so well behaved. He never gets into the trash.”
3 “I can’t find my dog anywhere!”
4 “Jump, Fido, jump!”
Chapter 5 Modern Conveniences
Contemporary dogs have become full-fledged family members in today’s households; sleeping on beds, wearing clothing, and eating gourmet meals. Skills once required of outdoor dogs have been replaced by a more practicable set of skills geared toward today’s modern living. While a dog’s ability to hunt for your dinner used to be of great importance, it is now more often appreciated when a dog can find the remote control, answer the telephone, and especially bring you a cold one from the fridge!
There is something about a dog doing “people things” that we humans find endearing. When we teach a dog to respond to a cue with a natural behavior (such as fetching), we have taught him to associate a word with a particular action. When we teach a dog to execute a “people behavior,” we have taught him not only the word but a complex idea involving logic and non-instinctive physical responses.
But let’s be honest. The tricks in this chapter are not often taught merely to improve a dog’s gray matter. They are taught for two reasons: to impress your friends and to save you a trip to the kitchen when you’re thirsting for a beer!
advanced
Get the Phone When It Rings
VERBAL CUE
Rrrrrrrrrrr
TEACH IT:
When the phone rings, your dog will pick it up from its receiver and bring it to you. With a cell phone, your dog will find it and bring it to you.
1 Set your phone on the floor and lift the receiver. Tell your dog to “take it” (page 24) and reward his effort.
2 Move away from the phone and have him fetch (page 24) the receiver. Introduce your verbal cue by doing your best imitation of your phone’s ring. Again, reward your dog for a successful retrieve.
3 Gradually move the phone back to its original spot—first moving it to a small table, then the counter, then the back of the counter. Your small dog may need a stool to reach the phone.
4 You’ll now want to associate the actual phone ring with the verbal cue you were using. Use a second phone line to dial your number. When it rings, give your verbal cue and point toward the phone. Your dog may be startled for a second, but cue him each time the phone rings.
WHAT TO EXPECT: Use an old phone when learning, as dogs often drop the receiver on the floor. Keep your cell phone and treats on hand, and call your phone a few times a day. This trick involves lots of exciting things for your dog; loud noises, jumping on counters, and fetching. It’s often a favorite—for both your dog and your callers!
PREREQUISITES
Fetch/Take it (page 24)
TROUBLESHOOTING
MY DOG DROPS THE PHONE
Part of the problem may be the clumsy shape and slippery texture of your phone. Retro phones with a slim handle work well, or you may wish to wrap your phone with tape.
BUILD ON IT! Learn speak (page 30) to have your dog talk into the phone!
TIP! If you teach this trick with your cell phone, set your ringtone to an easily distinguishable, uniform ring.
1 Have your dog take the receiver from the floor.
4 Use a second phone to teach your dog to respond to the ring.
“When the phone rings, I pick it up and run off with it!”
advanced
Turn Off the Light
VERBAL CUE
Lights
TEACH IT:
Your dog will learn to paw a light switch on the wall, turning the lights on or off. A flat, rocker light switch is easiest, especially for flipping the switch to the up position. Small dogs may require a stool placed under the switch.
1 Hold a treat against the wall a little above the light switch and encourage your dog with “lights, get it!” Let him have the treat when he is able to reach the switch.
2 Hold the treat a little above the switch and away from the wall while tapping the switch with your other hand. Encourage your dog up again, but keep the treat clenched in your fist until he paws once or twice against the wall. Praise him and give him the treat while he is still upright.
3 Tap the switch plate while cueing your dog, then put your hands down and allow your dog to paw at the wall by himself. As he improves, challenge your dog to make a successful switch flip before he is rewarded.
4 Finally, stand across the room and send your dog by himself to kill the lights!
WHAT TO EXPECT: “Get the lights on your way out, will you?” An energetic dog can pick up the concept of scratching the wall pretty quickly, however the nuances of flipping the switch will take more time.
TROUBLESHOOTING
HOW DO I TEACH THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN TURNING THE LIGHT ON AND OFF?
Your dog will not have the fine motor skills in this position to maneuver the switch one way or the other. He will just paw at the switch until you let him know he was successful.
BUILD ON IT! Once you’ve mastered turn off the light, use a similar action to learn open/close a door (page 70)!
TIP! Your dog should earn your praise. If you want to give him a hug, have him do a sit or a shake first.
“I have my nails trimmed twice a week. I get a cookie after.”
STEPS:
1 Hold a treat above the light switch and encourage your dog to get it.
3 Tap the light switch to cue your dog to paw at it.
Require a successful switch flip before rewarding.
4 Send your dog to flip the switch on his own!
expert
Open/Close a Door
VERBAL CUE
Open Close
TEACH IT:
Your dog opens a door using the handle, and pushes it closed with his paws.
OPEN THE DOOR:
1 Place your dog in front of an outward opening door with a lever door handle. Something desirous should be on the other side of the door, such as access to the outdoors, food treats, or a favorite toy. Have the door open a crack and encourage your dog to push his way through to get to the reward.
2 Hold the door slightly ajar, and encourage your dog to push it open. He will need to paw at it or jump on it to get it open this time. When he does, release the door, allowing it to open and giving your dog access to his reward.
3 Close the door completely and tap the door handle while encouraging your dog up. If he paws at the handle, subtly depress it and allow it to open
.
4 Now that your dog understands the handle is the secret to opening doors, he will perfect his technique on his own, given enough incentive on the other side!
5 Once your dog has mastered the outward opening door, try it with an inward opening one. Tape the latch so the door opens without depressing the handle. Your dog first needs to learn to lean on the handle and walk backward. Stand on the other side of the door with a treat or toy and call to your dog while tapping on the door.
101 Dog Tricks Page 6