Battery Monitor
For those of us who rely on our batteries away from dock, I don’t think that a basic battery monitoring system is an amenity—it is essential. There is a very wide range of products available, some that simply show available voltage (volt meters); others that show the amount of energy amperage being created, drawn, or output (ammeters); and still other systems that provide low-voltage alarms or remaining amp hour estimates and even time-to-depletion calculations.
It is important to be aware of remaining voltage in all of the battery banks, and having multiple or dual bank meters allows for easy switching or monitoring amongst the battery banks.
Moreover, some of the fancier battery digital monitors also require electricity to work, and therefore consume amps. Analog systems, while less versatile, require very little electricity.
Water Systems
While many liveaboards might argue that beer and wine are the keys to life, I understand that many scientists still take the position that water is the key. Perhaps we can all compromise on rum.
Water Filtration/Purification
There are two options for ensuring clean and safe water aboard. One is to stock drinking water—typically purchased in one- or five-gallon containers. The other is to install a system for water filtration in combination with a system for water purification.
Liveaboards who wish to drink water out of their tanks will generally filter the water that comes out of the faucet, even if it is drawn from a potable city water supply. Others will in addition filter the water that is brought aboard when filling the water tanks. Filters can be mounted on the faucet, installed in-line in the water hose leading to the faucet, or even be filtered after the water has been poured into a pitcher—as in a water-filtration pitcher. The important thing is to filter the water as close to its destination (your mouth) as possible, for bacteria and algae can be present throughout the hoses.
In addition, it is good practice to use a water purification system to ensure that the water and the fresh water system are free from bacteria, algae, and contamination. This will also significantly improve the smell and taste of the water. On a less frequent basis, purification powders/chemicals can safely be added to the water tank as well as other systems used to flush out fresh water systems. Basic systems are economical and important; they should be a staple of every boat.
Water Heaters
There are two typical systems for heating water aboard a boat, a traditional hot water heater and instant hot water.[2]
Typical hot water heaters, such as the type used in a house, heat several gallons of water in a storage tank using either shore power voltage or a heat exchanger, which uses the engine’s own heat while under way.
The advantage to a typical marine hot water heater is that you can heat water both while at shore and while under way. The biggest disadvantage of a typical hot water heater is the amount of space it occupies, as well as the additional plumbing and electrical labor required for its installation and maintenance. There are also some traditionally designed heaters that are portable and are designed to be plugged into 110-volt outlets—offering a much more economical (and portable) solution—but providing only the hot water that was heated and stored while at dock.
One other under-appreciated option is an instant hot water heater. Instant hot water heaters are wonderful, as they can be placed anywhere and take up virtually no space. An unlimited volume of water can be heated, and the units do not require a storage tank. Instant water heaters only draw an electrical charge when heating water and, while drawing a significant number of amps, these units usually require 110 volts and consequently are used only at dock. Although the water generated by these units is not scaldingly hot, the units are more than adequate at satisfying needs without costing too much (they typically cost far less than a traditional waterheater). They don’t require complex installations or take up much space, but neither do they allow you to carry preheated water for later use.
Watermakers
Watermakers are “cool” amenities—really only needed by long-range cruisers who are either safeguarding themselves against running out of a safe supply of fresh water or ensuring more of life’s conveniences without worrying about conservation of water.
Watermakers come with a high price tag, require regular maintenance, and generally draw a high number of amps. Watermakers are rated either at gallons per day or gallons per hour. The idea is to preserve electricity by running the watermaker for as short a time as necessary to create the desired amount of water.
There are also manual watermakers requiring a fair amount of labor to produce a limited quantity of water. These are ideally suited for life-threatening situations and are most commonly found in “ditch” kits taken with the crew onto the life raft if they ever need to abandon ship.
Navigation and Safety
Modern navigation and safety gear allows boaters to do some pretty impressive things, such as pinpoint their location to within a few feet.
GPS
In today’s world there is never an excuse for not knowing exactly where you are. Global positioning systems (GPS) calculate a position based on three or more satellite signals, triangulating exact coordinates. Handheld GPS units are cheap and widely available. GPS can also provide exact coordinates for rescues.
GPS devices come in handheld and fixed-mount units. Some provide coordinates, while others show the boat’s location with respect to other points, such as designated points on land, marine buoys, and other landmarks. It is important to use basic GPS units in conjunction with a chart in order to adequately identify the boat’s location.
More complex systems provide a “chartplotting” capability, which places the boat onto an image of a computer chart that shows the information provided on a marine chart, such as obstructions and underwater topography.
In all modern GPS units, you can set multiple waypoints, which is another way of saying that you can tell the GPS where the captain wants to go, and the GPS will tell the helmsman what course to set in order to hit that point and then the next point and the next, and so on. Many will work seamlessly with a laptop computer for plotting courses and establishing waypoints. Advanced units will tie the GPS and boat’s autopilot system together so that the autopilot brings the boat to its next targeted point; the autopilot then might even ask permission to change course to the next waypoint. When the helmsman grants permission, the autopilot changes the boat’s course to aim for the next point. This is an amenity that might introduce danger if not used cautiously.
One disadvantage of GPS is that it could go down. A backup navigation plan system is always adviseable. Other more common disadvantages of GPS are that the system has, thus far, been too reliable and too accurate. Sailors used to mark locations on charts like diaries but now use chartplotters, no longer keeping the wonderful records that used to so clearly describe their journeys and adventures. More serious a disadvantage also has to do with the GPS’s brilliant accuracy: A friend once set his waypoints for a journey by pointing the boat at various buoys, ultimately having his GPS guide his autopilot directly into a midpoint buoy, thus damaging the craft and shaking up a few of the souls on board. GPS (particularly when used with an autopilot) allows users to pay less attention to their surroundings than they should, and we are hearing more and more stories about collisions and other problems that result.
Radar
Radar is a system designed to identify obstructions, including boats and land masses around a boat, particularly when visibility is diminished. The majority of liveaboards will tend to head out for a cruise only when conditions are favorable and tend to tuck in when conditions are not. Consequently, it is rare for typical cruisers to ever need radar for safety. Longer-term and offshore cruisers who could encounter heavy weather, or boaters in areas known for decreasing visibility, such as Maine or San Francisco, should have radar as an advised safety enhancement.
Prices for good radar systems vary widely—and a radar insta
llation requires an antenna and viewing screen. The more power, the better the range of visibility.
Many units are now sold in combination with other electronic gear such as GPS chartplotters, allowing the helmsman/navigator to see the boat’s exact position and all obstructions. Such systems can even layer the radar image over a GPS chart for some very cool results. As far as toys go, radar is one of my favorites, although on my boat, which is a coastal craft, I have never encountered a need for it.
One radar-related cheap enhancement that every cruising boat should have is a radar reflector, a piece of equipment put onto a boat to help ensure that other boats with radar can see you. Horror stories tell of smaller craft run down by cargo ships or larger yachts. Particularly when at anchor, it is nice to know that you are doing everything you can to be “seen.”
Chartplotters and Laptops
A chartplotter can be a wonderful tool, helping to minimize errors in charting by projecting the boat’s image onto an image of a chart that shows depth of water, obstructions, buoys, land masses, and so forth. Channels are often clearly marked; lines are also drawn for past course and future track. Chartplotters, like noncharting GPSs, provide extensive data such as speed over ground and estimated time of arrival, as well as many other interesting pieces of information.
Many GPS units, even those without chartplotting capabilities, can output their position to a laptop computer that with the right software can be used as a highly advanced planning tool and chartplotter. The nice thing about using a laptop is that the computer is not only a great planning tool, but when under way (depending on the hardware and software) can also be used to oversee any equipment that has been linked together—such as radar, autopilot, waypoint adjustments—overlaying charts with weather information and everything else that is typically needed. Laptop computers can even monitor SSB frequencies and store weather faxes.
Laptop computers are not waterproof and are highly susceptible to damage from moisture and shock. It is often highly recommended that they be kept safely down below. It is possible, however, to run a remote waterproof screen to the cockpit for use by the helmsman without endangering the computer.
Autopilots
Autopilots are amazing: Not only will they steer a boat on a heading far better than a person ever could—at least consistently over time—but so many features can be integrated into them that for many boats, they seem almost invaluable.
Autopilots can be set up to steer on headings or toward waypoints when connected to the boat’s GPS, and relative to wind direction (helpful for sailboats). On long trips they allow the crew to do other things in addition to manning the helm…of course, while still paying attention to the surroundings. When I’m alone or with inexperienced crew, I can step away from the helm to take care of other essentials without fear that the boat will veer off course. And they are indispensable for night watches when the weather is cold and wet, for they allow the night watch to stay warmly wrapped in blankets and less exposed to weather.
Many autopilots can be controlled from below deck; these are particularly useful when there are chartplotter and radar screens down below so the navigator knows that the boat is on a safe course with no traffic or obstructions ahead.
There are many different kinds of autopilots, each rated for the size and weight of the craft. Some control a tiller, others a wheel; all control the direction. A sailboat may also use a wind vane autopilot, or an autopilot that uses no electricity and keeps a course relative to wind direction. A little research will tell you what’s available and necessary for your specific type of boat. Systems can still be expensive and can become quite addictive.
Weather Reports
Every boat that leaves the dock should be able to receive weather reports and warnings. The most common system for inshore and coastal cruisers is the weather broadcasts and alerts aired and received by VHF radio. Once offshore and out of range of VHF signals, the SSB radio becomes the best source of weather reports. SSBs, when equipped with a weather fax receiver and printer, can provide weather faxes as well as audio weather reports issued by the weather service.
With the advent of e-mail, new options are available for transmitting weather reports and advisories, as e-mail permits the transmission of full color/full resolution graphic files.
Anchor Alarms
Anchoring out is one of my favorite activities, a sentiment shared by many. Many liveaboards, particularly the cruising variety on a budget, will rarely pay for a slip at a marina or even pick up a mooring ball. Over time, that gets expensive. Anchoring, in contrast, is free.
Anchors drag from time to time. It’s important to ensure that this doesn’t happen, but it’s equally vital to know when it does. Add chain and weight and lay out the proper scope. Power in reverse and possibly add a second anchor. But eventually we have to sleep.
Many GPS units now come with an anchor alarm, a quiet sound made when your boat changes position by more than a desired distance. There are dedicated anchor alarms, as well, such as systems based on the amount of load placed on the anchor chain (see http://www.anchorwatch.com). Note: While these systems are available, I have never used them and cannot speak to their effectiveness.
My favorite system is to drop from the boat a weight tied to a slack line connected to a cooking pot on my galley counter. When the pot falls, it is time to take an immediate survey of the circumstances. (Once, I was dragging anchor and this technique was a lifesaver. although false alarms will routinely occur: On two such occasions my cat had gotten caught on the line. A decrease or shift in wind will produce the same result. )
If you want this added peace of mind and don’t want to sleep with your handheld GPS, some system, either with a louder speaker, a speaker output, or a dedicated alarm system, might be in order.
Many liveaboards have a tendency to wake up throughout the night to check their position. I’m the same way. I’ll be up one or two times a night to check the handheld GPS placed next to my berth, and will get up once to take a look to make sure that everything is fine. I don’t sleep soundly at anchor.
Other Safety Systems and Equipment
The U.S. Coast Guard dictates much of a boat’s required safety gear. You are required to have life jackets and throwable flotation devices, fire extinguishers and flares, horns and navigation lights. Common sense should dictate those requirements as well as many others. Moving forward on deck in heavy weather or at night should dictate that jacklines be installed. Harnesses are a good idea during evening watches and heavy weather. Man-Overboard (MOB) systems are vital enhancements to help ensure that a person overboard can be located and recovered. Strobes on life jackets and harnesses are helpful. Personal EPIRBs offer satellite tracking and assist in recovery. Foul-weather gear and survival suits and life rafts may be important, depending on cruising grounds and conditions. And always pack your ditch bag. If there is a potential danger at sea, there is probably a solution.
Other Cool Things
Other wonderful amenities (or in some cases necessities) follow, the goal being to introduce the systems so you can decide which features you want and which you don’t. Remember, though, that these are for the most part niceties that hopefully will make life more comfortable or convenient. Typically there are many options to solve any one problem, and many solutions often can be achieved with no additional purchase of equipment.
Anchor Windlass
Anchor windlasses are designed to help raise the anchor, although many do an excellent job at helping to lower the anchor as well. They must be properly installed because of the huge amount of torque and weight they generate and the significant amount of amps they require. Particularly if you do much single-handing, or use a heavy anchor with lots of chain, a windlass might be for you. For my boat, a windlass is overkill.
Windlasses are fitted to particular chain sizes and rated for maximum pulling strength. They are either manual or electric. Electric windlasses require very significant electrical draw; great care mus
t be taken in configuring the electrical system, particularly if the windlass battery is also the house battery and located aft.
Dinghy
A dinghy can be a necessity or merely a recreational toy. It can act as a tender under typical conditions or as a lifeboat under more trying circumstances. Of course, if you want to use the dinghy as your own personal water taxi, you’ll need a dinghy dock where you can safely keep it.
There are dinghies that are simple rowboats, inflatable boats, sporty zippy boats, and combinations of all of the above. Inflatables can come with hard shell bottoms. Some have engines, others oars, and still others have both.
Dinghys tend to be expensive, and some require expensive engines as well, so care should be taken to ensure that you are spending your money for the right system. Many boaters spend more than $2–$4,000 on the dinghy, $1,000 on the davits and $1,000 on the engine—for a quick $4,000 added investment, and all these things have to be maintained. Add that to the cost spreadsheet table as “other equipment,” if you want. And you may also need to register the dinghy as a separate craft.
You also need to know whether you plan on keeping the dinghy on deck, on davits, or towed. Towing is the most economical solution, although it increases drag, danger, and the risk of losing the dinghy.
Dinghy Davits
Davits are manual cranes, allowing heavy things to be raised and, in some cases, brought aboard. They are commonly used for bringing outboard engines aboard and raising a dinghy.
The Essentials of Living Aboard a Boat Page 16