barbarians
of childhood tales
Chinese fear of
European colonials as
and hardship vs. comfort
organized society’s fear of
Tibet as last hope of, vs. civilization
Barber, Noel
Ba thang (plain of Ba)
Beijing (Peking)
Bell, Dr. John
Bhutan
Blondeau, Anne Marie
Bokhara (city)
Bon-po region
Bon-po religion
Boston Globe
Brahmaputra River
British colonialists
as barbarians
civilizing mission of
invasion of Tibet of 1904
Buddhism, Tibetan
Burma-Laos frontier
Burton, Sir Richard Francis
Cai Zongxia, Professor
Cambodia
camping, luxury
caravan routes
Carellas, Sylvain
Carter administration
Casas, Dr. Ignasi
cavaliers
Celts
Chamdo (town)
Changthang plains
Chasseloup-Laubat, Marquis of
Chauvet cave paintings
Chiang Kai-shek
China
attacked by Tibetan king
vs. barbarians
invaded by Kham tribes
invades Tibet in 1910
literacy in
and maps of Tibet
of past vs. present
and riding tack
and subjugation of Nangchen
and Tibetan youth
and women and sensuality
Chinese Academy of Science
Chinese Communists
and ban on travel
and Dalai Lama and war of 1950s
invade Tibet in 1950
Kham tribes vs.
and maps of Qinghai
and permission to travel to Mekong source area
Chinese National Bureau of Cartography
Chinese People’s Liberation Army (PLA)
Chinese Political Security Bureau
Chos-ling monastery of Nyingma-pa sect
Chung Ying, General
CIA
Clark (pilot)
Cochinchina (later French Indochina)
Collins, Mr.
Colorado River
Columbus
comfort
and camping
vs. freedom
vs. hardship
Committee for the Exploration of the Upper Mekong, Société de Géographie
Condamine, La
consumer society
Coon, Carlton
Cortez
“Cow’s Mouth”
“criminal monks” of Tibet
“criminal tribes” of India
cultural identity, loss of
Cultural Revolution
Curzon, Viceroy Lord
Dalai Lama, 6th
Dalai Lama, 13th
Dalai Lama, 14th
Dalai Lamas, and Kham tribes
Dam Chu River
upper valley
David-Neel, Alexandra
Dayun government farm
Dengchen garrison
Denko garrison
Dhaulaghiri range
Dhud Khosi (Milk River)
“discovery”
Dnieper River source
Donak River
Dri milk, butter, and cheese
Drug-di chu-go (holy spring)
Drug-di (Dragon) range
Duncan, Marion
Dvina-Dnieper trip
Dza Chu. See Mekong River
Dza Kar branch (White Mekong)
Dza Nak branch (Black Mekong)
Dza-Nak Lungmo pass (“Dzana-Loung-Monk-La”)
Dza Nak pass
Dzer monastery
Dzo (yak and cow crossbreed)
Eden, Sir Ashley
Eliot, T. S.
Encyclopaedia Britannica
Eskimo
Europeans
as barbarians
and concept of discovery
Everest, Mount
explorers and exploration
defined
end of
Falck, Dr. Jacques
Figaro, Le
fleas
Forbidden City
forbidden territories
fox, blue
Francs
French and Chinese geology team
French colonialism
civilizing mission of
Gabet, Father
Ganan district
Ganges
Gangotri, Mount
Gansu Province
Gar, Tongsten fo
Garnier, Francis
Gauls
Gelug-pa (yellow-hat sect)
monastery
Geographical Institute of the Academy of Science of China
Geographical Journal
Geographical Magazine
Ghegi do-ta, stone horse of
Ghegi tribe
Global Positioning System (GPS)
gold
cost of
mines
ornaments
Golden Triangle
Golmod village
Golok tribe
Gonghe village
Goths
Grenard, Joseph-Fernand
Grandière, Vice Admiral de la
“grass bug”
Great Wall
Guinness, Loel
Guinness, Sebastian
Gurdjieff
Gyala Pheri, Mount
hailstorms
hardship
vs. comfort
nobility of
Harris, Dr.
Harrison, Dr. Steven
hats, Tibetan
Hearsey, Hyder Jung
hearth
Hemming, Dr. John
Heptalites
Herbert, Capt. James
Herodotus
Himalayan range
geology of
rivers and gorges through
Hodgson, Capt. John
horse
adornment of
alliance between man and
domestication of
foal attack by wolves
and history of riding
and mule trains
races and fairs
races to catch bride
saddles and tack
search for, in Moyun
social position and
tame vs. wild
and Tibetan society
horse breeds (Equus caballus)
Arab thoroughbred
Caspian miniature thoroughbred
Chakori pony
and chromosomes
Clydesdale dray
Dereivka Stedri Stog tomb
early European
E. a. atlanticus
European thoroughbred
first domestic
first tame
Hemionus, wild
Himalayan ponies
and history of breeding
Mongolian pony
Nangchen
new, in Riwoche
Przewalski
rong-ta or valley
Tibetan
Tsaidam pony
wild, defined
Horse Road. See Silk Road
How Man Wong
Huc, Father
Humboldt, Alexander
hunter-gatherer tradition
hydrology
Independent
India
Mutiny of 1857
Indochina
Indus River
INRA (French agronomical research institute)
Institut Géographique National de France
International Herald-Tribune
Iyer, Pico
Jacquemont, Victor
Jalgo chu (rGyal-rgo) tributary
Japanese exploration party (Sino-Japanese team)
&nb
sp; Jeykundo monastery. See also Yushu
Jokhang shrine
Junichi, Dr. Nakanishi
juniper trees
Kailas, Mount
Kali Gandaki River
Kargyu monastery
Karmay, Tashi
Karong pass
Kashmir
Kesar (Cesar) of Ling
Khamba tribes
vs. Chinese Communists
Dalai Lama and rebellion of
fairs and horse races of
guerrillas, and return after exile
hardiness of, vs. comfort
history of
loyalty and territory of
murder of de Rhins by
in Nepal
proverbs of, on happiness
and robbery
territories of
and women and marriage
in Zadoi
Khapa, Tsong
Khmer Rouge
Khone rapids
Kling, Kevin
Koko Nor, Lake
Kosloff, P. K.
Kum Bum monastery
Ladakh (“Little Tibet”)
Lagrée, Doudart de
Lamaism
Nyingma-pa sect
red hat sects
yellow-hat sect
See also Dalai Lama
Lancang River (Mekong in Yunnan)
Land of Lost Content, The (Barber)
Langlois, Dr.
Laos
Lascaux cave paintings
Lhasa
British march on
collaboration of, with Chinese
dangerous northern route to
Jokhang monastery built in
routes to
Liberation
Liberation Committee for Tibet
Ling, land of
Ling Haitao (guide)
Lo Mantang, walled city of
Louangphrabrang, Laos
Lungmo River (Loung-Mouk-Tchou or Lung sMok-chu)
Machiavelli
Madoi (town)
Magyars
Ma Ho-t’ien
Manasarowar, Lake
Manchu emperors
Mao Zedong
Maps
Grenard’s
lack of
See also satellite maps
Ma Pu-feng, General
Masayuki, Dr. Kitamura
Matisse
Mekong River
countries traversed by
flow and gorge of upper
magic in name of
mapping tributaries of
UN plans to dam
at Zadoi
See also Dza Kar branch; Dza Nak branch
Mekong source
altitude of
early expeditions to
finding and mapping
as forbidden territory
Grenard on
maps of area
meaning of, in Tibet
and Nangchen kingdom
National Geographic journey to
and nomads
permission to travel to
planning journey to
and QMA
research on finding
rival to find
sacred vs. geographic
and time of year
Migot, Pierre
Minyag Konka, Mount
monasteries
Moorcroft, William
Mouhot, Henri
Moyun garrison
Muha, chief
mu (sacred thread)
Muslims
Mustang kingdom
Nagbo, Nawang (the traitor)
Namche Barwa, Mount
Nangchen
bogs and waters of
capitals of
destruction of
foreigners in
and hardiness
history of
monasteries in
population of
schools in
Nangchen, King of
Nangchen Dzong garrison
Nangchen Gar (city)
National Geographic
Nationalist Chinese
“native explorers”
Nepal
New Guinea
New World Protestants
New York Times
Nile
Nixon, Richard M.
nomads
vs. agriculture
vs. “civilization”
loyalties and territory of
secret of
tents and territory of
values of
Nouvelle, Jerome
Olmecs
O’Neill, Thomas
opium trade
Oring Lake
Panchen Lama
Paris-Match
Park, Mungo
Peissel, Jocelyn
Pelliot, Paul
Pemakoe valley
Pemba (Palbar) garrison
Perrin, Michel
Peter the Great, Tsar of Russia
Phakpa (Chinese sympathizer)
Phnom Penh, Cambodia
Photrang, Samdrup
Pla Buk (catfish)
Polo, Marco
polo (game)
Pot, Pol
Procope (historian)
Przewalski, Colonel. See also Horse breeds, Przewalski
Puel, Caroline
pulmonary edema
Qinghai Mountaineering Association (QMA)
Qinghai plateau
Qinghai Province (Amdo region)
climate of southern
history of
maps of southern
as penal colony
river sources in
waters of
Ra-sa monastery
Red Guards
Repa, Mila
Rhins, Dutreuil de
Richardson, Hugh
riding tack
Rijnhart, Susie Carson
Rinzing (assistant)
rivers
gorges and water supply
and violence
river sources
altitude of
Chinese proverb on
difficulty of determining
importance of
Riwoche trip
Rockhill, William Woodville
Rousseau, Jeans-Jacques
Royal Geographical Society of Great Britain
Rupsa-la pass
Russia
Ruto-la pass
Sag-ri chu-go source
Sag-ri range
Sakyamuni, Lord Buddha
Sakya-pa sect
Salins, Marshall
Salween River
Sambor falls
satellite maps
Scott, Robert Falcon
Scott, Sir James George
Scythians
Serchu valley
seventeen-point agreement
Shah Jahn, Emperor
Short History of Tibet (Richardson)
Silk Road (“Horse Road”)
Simon, Georges Eugène
Simons, Marlise
Singh, Kishen (A.K.)
Smadja, David
Smyth, Edmund
Sogchen fortress
Song-tsen Gampo, King of Tibet
Soviet Union
Speeke, Lt. John
“Stars, plain of the”
Stein, Sir Aurel
Stein, Rolf
Stone Age men
Sun and Moon Pass
Sunday Times of London
Sutlej River
Tafel, Albert
Tagster Rimpoche
Tagster village
Tang, General
Tangla range
Tapponnier, Paul
Taring Lake
Tatsienlu tribe
technology
Teichman, Sir Eric
Terrai jungles
Thailand
Theosophical Society
Thiollier, Alain
Tibet
alphabet of
ban on travel to
and barbarian invasions
of China
beauty of
best season to travel in
and British invasion of 1904
and Buddhism
and Chinese invasion of 1910
and Chinese “liberation” of 1950
civilization and culture of
climate and geography of
dogs of
as forbidden territory
frontiers of, closed
geology of
hailstorms of
history of
Kashmir invasion of
maps of
medicinal products of
Mekong’s route through
mining in
names in
nomads and barley growers of
north-central area of
problems of traveling in
and “progress”
proverbs of, on happiness
refugees flee to tropical
riding and saddlery tradition in
rivers and sources in
sea route to
trade with China
“Tibetan Autonomous Region”
Tibetan people
and comfort
effect of Chinese on
and foreigners
good nature of
and horses and
idleness among young
intelligence of
and love
and Muslims
and numbers vs. names
optimism of
types and grooming of
and wise men
and women
youth favored by
Times Atlas
Tong-bou-mdo village
Topgyal (muleteer)
Tranak coma River
Tranak oma River
Trans-Tibetan Highway
trans-Tibetan railroad line
travel
and destruction of cultures
and technology
Tsering (companion)
Tun-huang manuscripts
Turkestan
unexplored regions
United Nations
Urgyen, Lama
values
Vandals
Vespucci, Amerigo
Vietnam
Vikings
Visigoths
Wang (cook)
Wang Tsun Yi (guide)
Ward, Kingdom
War of Kanting
water supply
Wenchuan (town)
Wen-tch’eng, Princess of China
western civilization
“white Huns”
Wu Jian Sheng
Xining (city)
Xinjiang Province
yaks
Yamashita, Mike
Yangtze River
Yarlung valley
Yellow River (Hwang Ho or Ma Chu)
Yudong, Lama Chime
Yunnan Province
Yushu (formerly Jeykundo, district capital)
Zadoi garrison
Zadoi monastery
Zanskar
Zhou Enlai
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
I would like to thank, for their generosity, kind assistance, and encouragement, Gian Franco Brignone and Loel Guinness. I would also like to thank the staff of both the Royal Geographical Society and the Qinghai Mountaineering Association for their help in preparing and carrying out our expedition. I am also particularly grateful for the labors of Jonathan S. Landreth, the editor of this book, who pursued me around the globe and worked for months to ensure that it might appear in a language akin to English.
ALSO BY MICHEL PEISSEL
The Last Barbarians Page 25